Breathing life back into the Great Barrier Reef

Solving the mysteries of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef is critical to safeguarding its future, which is why tourism operators in Bundaberg are now joining scientists in helping to find the answers

Words Jessica Wynne Lockhart

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From 1851 onwards, Lady Elliot Island was mined intensively for guano (for use in fertiliser), which stripped the island of its soil and vegetation. It wasn’t until 1969, when a local pilot took on the island’s lease, that replanting of the land began (Tourism and Events Queensland)

From 1851 onwards, Lady Elliot Island was mined intensively for guano (for use in fertiliser), which stripped the island of its soil and vegetation. It wasn’t until 1969, when a local pilot took on the island’s lease, that replanting of the land began (Tourism and Events Queensland)

Just beneath the water’s surface, walls of iridescent fish hovered and bobbed in the current, the filtered sunshine reflecting off their fins. Below them, colourful parrotfish made their rounds, while a school of big-eyed trevally moved slowly along the seabed, unaffected by my presence. To them, I was just another small fish in the big azure sea surrounding Queensland’s Lady Elliot Island.

A short flight from Bundaberg, this remote island off Australia’s east coast marks the southernmost coral cay of the Great Barrier Reef. It’s best known for its large marine species. The deep waters of the continental shelf are just kilometres away and an upwelling of nutrients attracts humpback whales, sea turtles, sharks and manta rays to the area. Included among this collection is the bizarre Inspector Clouseau, a rare rose-coloured manta named after the Pink Panther detective. I, however, was here for the coral.

Lady Elliot Island isn’t dubbed the ‘Home of the Manta Ray’ for nothing, with the best time to spot one being between June and September; the corals of the Great Barrier Reef aren’t always spectacularly coloured (Tourism and Events Queensland)

Lady Elliot Island isn’t dubbed the ‘Home of the Manta Ray’ for nothing, with the best time to spot one being between June and September; the corals of the Great Barrier Reef aren’t always spectacularly coloured (Tourism and Events Queensland)

Rising up in columns around and below me, hues of earthy yellow, terracotta pink and shades of brown dominated the underwater scene. I had to remind myself that what I was looking at weren’t plants, but rather colonies of thousands of tiny animals (polyps) – animals that are increasingly under threat.

Since 1998, rising global sea temperatures have led to seven mass bleaching events on the Great Barrier Reef, including one in 2016 that resulted in headlines declaring its death. It’s a rumour that has only been perpetuated by tourists, who visit without fully understanding what they’re looking at. After all, it’s an easy mistake to make if you’re expecting to see the full Technicolor glory of Finding Nemo but are met with 50 shades of brown.

“You’ll see lots of brown. This doesn’t mean the coral is sick or dead; that’s just the colour of a healthy reef,” said Jacinta Shackleton, a marine biologist and master reef guide, as we toured above Lady Elliot’s coral gardens in a glass-bottomed boat.

A baby crab walks along the sandy beach (Tourism and Events Queensland)

A baby crab walks along the sandy beach (Tourism and Events Queensland)

It’s just one of many misconceptions that people have about the reef. Even bleaching, Shackleton explained, isn’t necessarily a death sentence: “This occurs when the coral is really stressed out; it’s a temporary state that it can recover from.”

But while the Great Barrier Reef may be alive, it’s far from well. Global warming isn’t the only threat to its future; it also faces cyclones, which are occurring with increasing severity and frequency (a by-product of climate change). There is also pollution from land run-off, ocean acidification and outbreaks of coral-eating crown-of-thorns starfish. Its only hope is that scientists can find a way to safeguard its future, and now they have an ally in the form of tour operators.

“Hues of earthy yellow, terracotta pink and various shades of brown dominated the underwater scene”

(Tourism and Events Queensland)

(Tourism and Events Queensland)

Lady Elliot Island is just one example of how the two are working together. But while I’m thrilled to be snorkelling at a site where healthy coral and vibrant fish are found in abundance, there’s always a lingering sense of disappointment that it doesn’t look hyper-saturated, like the images you’d see in a David Attenborough documentary or in tourism videos.

Fortunately, I found the antidote for this particular affliction back on the mainland, in a large farm shed on the banks of the Burnett River. Inside, long troughs filled with moving saltwater – which had been carefully pH-balanced and was temperature-controlled – are home to thousands of individual corals. Under the glow of the facility’s UV lights, their true colour and characteristics are evident, resulting in something closer to my idealised image of the Great Barrier Reef.

I walked between the rows of tanks, peering down at each specimen in the water. Coral that could only be described as Play-Doh red in colour sat beside scolymia, an Australian hard coral prized for its vibrant neon hues. Other flower-like varieties blossomed under the water’s surface, their delicate tendrils glowing in shades of fluorescent blue-green and millennial pink. It was like a scene from the film Avatar – beautiful and altogether otherworldly.

This is Monsoon Aquatics, Australia’s largest coral farm. Since 2008, this family-owned business has supplied hobbyists and
aquariums with coral from its locations in Darwin and Cairns, and it has the ability to produce 2,500 ‘fragments’ of coral each week. Its newest location, in Bundaberg, isn’t just its largest; it also marks Monsoon’s recent expansion into aquaculture.

“We need to be identifying the types of corals that are resilient to change, whether that be climate change, extreme [land-based] run-off or other changes that are happening out in the oceans,” said Daniel Kimberley, Monsoon Aquatics’ founding director. “And in an aquaculture facility, we have the potential to produce millions of corals at scale.”

Much like tree nurseries are used for reforestation projects, in the future it is hoped that Monsoon Aquatics will be a key player in replanting the Great Barrier Reef.

“The ultimate goal is to be a piece of the puzzle in reef restoration,” explained Brooke Kimberley, the company’s business manager. She led me into the nursery where they are developing the technology to get the corals to breed on demand.

Master reef guides are ambassadors for the Great Barrier Reef, trained to give up-to-date scientific information to visitors (Tourism and Events Queensland)

Master reef guides are ambassadors for the Great Barrier Reef, trained to give up-to-date scientific information to visitors (Tourism and Events Queensland)

The corals of the Great Barrier Reef aren’t always spectacularly coloured (Tourism and Events Queensland)

The corals of the Great Barrier Reef aren’t always spectacularly coloured (Tourism and Events Queensland)

The Lady Musgrave pontoon sits within the lagoon of the eponymous island (Tourism and Events Queensland)

The Lady Musgrave pontoon sits within the lagoon of the eponymous island (Tourism and Events Queensland)

Rooms in the Lady Musgrave’s underwater observatory allow you to watch marine life from the comfort of your bed (Tourism and Events Queensland)

Rooms in the Lady Musgrave’s underwater observatory allow you to watch marine life from the comfort of your bed (Tourism and Events Queensland)

The first step is better understanding the lives of corals, which are as fascinating as they are complex. Coral polyps form a symbiotic relationship with algae called zooxanthellae, which is responsible for their unique pigmentation. Bleaching occurs when the coral expels the algae, in turn becoming susceptible to disease and starvation.

Coral has many unusual characteristics. Far from docile or immobile, some species are capable of moving; others can be aggressive, fighting with competitors for space and territory. But most compelling of all is how coral reproduces. Just once a year, under the glow of a full moon and when the tides and water temperature are just right, many corals simultaneously release their eggs and sperm into the ocean’s water in an event known as spawning. It’s a synchronised phenomenon that scientists still don’t fully understand. It’s also critical to the reef’s survival, because while some coral can reproduce asexually by cloning itself, spawning improves genetic diversity and resilience.

“Coral spawning is based on magical things that we still don’t know about,” explained Brooke. “The key for us is now conditioning the mothers to the point where we can get them to spawn on demand.”

For visitors, tours of Monsoon’s facility, which are set to take place in a purpose-built interpretative centre, are an opportunity to understand more about the creature’s unique ecology.

“To be able to see coral up close makes you understand it more. It makes you want to protect it and understand why it’s so important to do what we do,” said Brooke. “We want to make sure the reef is here for generations to come.”

The challenge, of course, is that few trips to Australia are possible without racking up a massive carbon debt, which is linked to the climate change affecting its waters. But the countless scientists and marine biologists that I’ve spoken with along the reef’s 2,300km length have all told me the same thing: the research and restoration they’re doing would be impossible without tourists.

That’s the case with the Lady Musgrave Experience, a pontoon moored near another coral cay, just north of Lady Elliot Island. Since its launch in 2021, it’s become one of the most sought-after overnight stays for visitors to the reef, with its on-board glamping tents and bunk beds with underwater views.

Soon, the facility will become just as renowned for its citizen-science programmes. A new dedicated research pontoon will support the work of marine biologists while allowing visitors to participate in coral restoration programmes. But already, the positive impact of its presence is being felt.

“Being permanently moored out at the reef allows us to carry out reef surveys weekly. We can monitor impacts because, as a tourism provider, we spend more time out there than anybody else,” said Mel Tree, general manager of the Lady Musgrave Experience, when I met her for breakfast at Bundaberg’s Windmill Café.

“ It was like a scene from the film Avatar – beautiful and altogether otherworldly”

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

This is just one of dozens of tour operators essentially being run as social entrepreneurships, with the reef’s health at the forefront. Nearly every day, boats depart for the reef from Cairns, Port Douglas and Bundaberg, taking with them not only tourists, but also scientists and scuba divers who painstakingly survey the reef and reattach coral fragments at nursery sites. The Port Douglas-based Wavelength Reef Cruises, for example, has planted more than 65,000 corals across 27 sites since 2018. In total, Queensland’s tourism operators have installed over 100 reef coral nurseries, propagating hundreds of thousands of corals across the Great Barrier Reef.

Research is underway at Lady Elliot Island, too, where on-site marine biologists such as Shackleton survey coral health, tag turtles, track manta rays and sample the water.

Turtle-nesting season on Lady Elliot Island happens yearly from November to early March (Tourism and Events Queensland)

Turtle-nesting season on Lady Elliot Island happens yearly from November to early March (Tourism and Events Queensland)

“If we didn’t have tourists coming out here, then the resort wouldn’t be able to have a scientific team,” said Shackleton. She told me that she remains optimistic about the future of the reef, despite the hot and dry El Niño summer that lies ahead.

“The reef is always going to be here,” said Shackleton, “but it’s definitely going to be different from the way that we see it today.”

With her words in my ears, I donned my wetsuit and flippers one last time before heading home. From the dark below, a green sea turtle appeared. It saw me but didn’t change tack. Instead, it swam directly under the length of my body, its hard shell close enough to touch and a gentle reminder that even in the dark, hope can appear.

A boat drifts over a tasselled wobbegong shark (Tourism and Events Queensland)

A boat drifts over a tasselled wobbegong shark (Tourism and Events Queensland)

See the reef through Indigenous eyes

Australia’s Aboriginal peoples have lived in harmony with the land and sea for tens of thousands of years. Increasingly, their perspective and knowledge are being called upon to help manage the reef for future generations. Here are two ways you can learn more from them.

Learn more about how Aboriginal peoples have lived in harmony with Australia's environment (Tourism and Events Queensland)

Learn more about how Aboriginal peoples have lived in harmony with Australia's environment (Tourism and Events Queensland)

Lady Musgrave’s Taribelang Overnight Experience

On this three-day departure from Bundaberg, visitors join a team of marine biologists and Taribelang Bunda guides for an all-inclusive retreat on the reef. You’ll spend your days learning about local Aboriginal culture and history, taking guided snorkelling tours and eating meals prepared with indigenous ingredients. At night, retire to your on-deck glamping tent on the Lady Musgrave pontoon or sleep next to the fish in its underwater observatory.

More information: ladymusgraveexperience.com.au

Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel

Up in Cairns, there are countless opportunities to learn more about Aboriginal culture. Aboard Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel’s catamaran, you’ll join Indigenous sea rangers to get some context for the history of the reef and the current issues it faces. Trips to snorkel sites also offer the chance to immerse yourself in local cultural practices, including demos of traditional dances, the digeridoo, clap sticks and fire poles.

More information: dreamtimedive.com


The author travelled with support from Tourism and Events Queensland.