Your full Wanderlust guide to
Montenegro
The tiny Balkan country of Montenegro packs a surprisingly large punch. In the west, you’ve got beaches and the swell of the Adriatic, with small fishing villages scattered along the coast as far as the eye can see. Further inland, you’ll find the towering peaks of Durmitor National Park, in which hiking and rafting trips plunge you into a wild interior of vast canyons and beautiful lakes, where wolves and bears still roam the more remote corners. And in the cobbled streets of capital Kotor, you can cheerfully lose yourself in one of the most charming walled cities in Europe.
The landscape is often what takes the eye here, from the shores of Lake Skadar to the Dinaric Alps. But even in the rural hinterlands you’ll find medieval villages, cliffside monasteries and the warmest of welcomes. Hospitality is very important to Montenegrins, and much of the food served here is organic, or at least produced locally in the farms nearby. A growth in agritourism stays now also let you spend time with those who make it. Trust us: it’s worth it for the breakfasts alone!
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When to go
The days are warm and mostly sunny from May to the end of September, though you can expect to find the beaches packed in July and August when the temperatures rise well into the 30s (ºC). Spring and autumn are your best bet if you want to go hiking and skip the worst of the summer heat, while water levels are highest in the rivers in April and May, when rafting on the Tara is at its best, though the season officially lasts until October. The winters can be very cold, especially inland and in the mountains.
International airports
Airport Podgorica lies 11km from the capital city, while Airport Tivat serves the coast and the tourist hubs Kotor and Budva. Alternatively, the airport in Dubrovnik in neighbouring Croatia is close to the border, and buses run into Montenegro from there.
Getting around
The bus service to most towns is comprehensive, safe and cheap. The services on the coast tend to run more frequently, and bus drivers can let you out nearly anywhere along the route, although this is very much at their own discretion and you might end up having to hail a taxi.
The rail network is certainly far from extensive; it only has about 250km of track, though the section connecting Bar via Podgorica to Belgrade is beautiful, and the best way to arrive in or leave the country.
Renting a car is your best bet to get to more remote destinations, particularly if you want to explore the national parks.
Health & safety
You should check with your GP that your general polio, tetanus and typhoid vaccinations are still effective. If you do get sick, there are plenty of private clinics with overseas-trained, English-speaking doctors.
In summer, the temperature can rise well into the 30s (ºC), so remember to drink plenty of water and use a high-factor sun lotion. In most of the country, the tap water is safe to drink, except in the coastal resorts during summer. It is generally safe to walk around city centres after dark, and the approach to female travellers is almost chivalrous.
