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How a Hebridean whisky festival became a celebration of the community
Islay’s Fèis Ìle attracts whisky pilgrims from all over the world for a week of open distilleries, live music and plenty of drams. But for locals, it’s about more than just a good time…
Rippling waves gently lapped against the side of the boat. The sun beamed down from a cloudless blue sky, and there I was, sweltering in a heavy-knit fisherman’s jumper and raincoat. I’d been led to believe this rugged isle off the north-west coast of Scotland served up a constant menu of high winds and incessant rain. But as I looked at the sandy beach and turquoise waters (regretting my absence of sun cream) Islay could not have looked more sparkling.
I had come up to the Inner Hebridean isle to get a taste of Fèis Ìle – the annual whisky festival that welcomes whisky pilgrims from all over the world for a week of open distilleries, live music, seafood and plenty of drams. During the festival the island’s population almost doubles as the 3,000 permanent residents of this Hebridean isle, welcome everyone from hairy Norwegian bikers to nicely turned-out Chinese collectors. I was among the many adventurers who decided to take up the challenge of getting to this remote island on its busiest week of the year.
Getting to Islay is a challenge any time of the year but during the festival, flights, ferries, hotels and even taxis become as hard to get your hands on as a bottle of 32-year-old Laphroaig. After a three-hour drive from the airport at Glasgow to the ferry terminal at Kennacraig, via the stunning Lock Fyne, I made it onto the ferry with just minutes to spare. As the mainland disappeared into the mist behind me, three mountains known as the Jura “Paps” emerged up ahead.
Jura – the more northerly of the Inner Hebrides – isn’t much smaller than its big sister Islay but it feels a world away. A single road winds up the eastern coast, past the Tarbert Estate (owned by the Astor Family) and towards Craighouse, the main settlement on the isle. With a population of under 300 people, red deer that thunder along the ridges of the island’s hills, outnumber the people 25 to one. Its remoteness is its main appeal for many. George Orwell came to write his final book 1984 at Barnhill House at the northern tip of the isle. The house has changed little since those years Orwell spent here in the late 1940s, and although it is available to rent, it is still only accessible via boat or a five-mile hike beyond the end of that single road track.
At the Jura dock, I met Karra MacAffer who works on a small fishing boat during the week and helps out with Venture West in her spare time. She took me out on the still waters in the 12-metre cabin rib to see what we can find. Karra pointed out an island inhabited by wild goats said to have been brought over by the Norwegian Vikings, and we looked out for white-tailed eagles. Seals played in the water and sunbathed on the rocky shoreline. Although she told me that it’s a bit too early in the season to catch lobster, we found a couple of fat, pink crabs in the creels I pulled up. Although I threw mine back, many hotels on the islands will be happy to serve you your catch for dinner, she explained.
Back on land, the Jura distillery is enjoying its Fèis open day. Bagpipers played covers of rock songs and guests spilled out from the white-washed Jura hotel onto the wide lawn clutching glasses of whisky cocktails.
Graham Geddes had recently moved to Jura with his family to work in the distillery. His 11-year-old daughter Ruby has brought the school population up to 21. “It’s such a fantastic place to grow up,” he said, pointing at the crystal-clear waters and bright blue skies. “Before she would spend her free time in front of screens. Now she’s off outside playing all day.”
Bringing children up in a more traditional way of life appeals to Graham. Although he has a full-time job as the distillery manager, he explains that the people here pull together to ensure everyone becomes an integral part of the community. “A crofter might also be the postman and run the local taxi company,” he tells me. “Everybody pitches in to keep the island running.”
It’s just a five-minute ferry journey back across the Jura Sound to Islay. The last ferry was at 6.30pm. If I missed it, I was stuck. Luckily the ferryman waited, having seen me hurtle up the meandering road, and I made it on, getting to my hotel in time for dinner.
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Islay has a unique smell of sea salt air and peaty earth. Peat bogs cover much of the island and peat was used as the main fuel used to keep the residents warm through the long, damp winter months. It was also burned to dry the malted barley in the whisky-making process thus giving Islay whisky its unique smoky, peaty flavour profile. The popularity of these full-bodied, punchy whiskies has seen production increase at the existing nine distilleries in recent years and new distilleries including Port Ellen, Ardnahoe and soon-to-open Portintruan have added to that growing list.
Each day of the week-long Fèis a different distillery hosted festivities, with the biggest parties being the opening and closing Saturdays. Only the hardiest of visitors managed to make it through the whole week and I opted for the second half. Bruichalladich opened the Fèis, and Ardbeg closed it with a circus theme replete with a helter-skelter, live music, traditional games and staff dressed in top hats and tails.
Palate thoroughly cleansed, it was time to track down some of the island’s famous seafood. Oysters are in abundance on the island and I found stalls selling them alongside crab rolls and lobster bisque at nearly every distillery event. But I wanted to go to the source and took a long bumpy drive down a winding farm track to find the Oyster Shed. A journey that was worth the detour, not just for the buttery shellfish but for the stunning views of the oyster beds stretching out into the Atlantic.
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The picturesque capital, Bowmore – famed for its circular church “to stop the devil hiding in the corners” – has a smattering of shops and a lovely array of inns and small hotels. I stayed at the Ballygrant Inn – a small guesthouse in the centre of the Island with a restaurant serving home-cooked dinners and boasts the most comprehensive whisky bar on the island.
Ewan Graham who runs the Inn with his father David, tells me that the island’s infrastructure is struggling to keep up with the rapid development of the whisky industry. Water, power, transport and accommodation are all in short supply. Plans for expanding sub-sea cables, an offshore wind farm and an additional ferry service will certainly help with those issues but the problem today, he says, is that there isn’t enough housing to supply the growing population. “House prices have doubled in recent years, putting them out of reach of many islanders,” he said.
But that same industry also provides much-needed jobs to an island that struggles to keep people from leaving. “Before, young people left Islay when they finished school and never came back,” says Ewan. “But now they do. They come back and work in the whisky industry.”
On Saturday night in the town of Port Ellen, pubs were heaving. The last remnants of the visiting whisky drinkers were tailing off, and the island’s excited youth were spilling out from the pubs. Pockets were flushed with cash from working on the new distilleries, cheeks were rosy from the hot spring sun, and bellies were warmed with delicious whisky. It turns out the Fèis festivities were just as much for the locals as us mainlanders.
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Need to know
When to go: Mid-April to the end of June is the best chance of good weather. Winter months are dark, windy and wet but the open fires and warming drams create their own Orwellian charm.
The Fèis Ìle 2025 will run from Friday 23rd May to Saturday 31st May
How to get there: A short flight from Glasgow on a twin-prop Logan aeroplane might be the quickest route to the wind-swept isle, however, these are frequently cancelled due to the turbulent weather that can sweep in at a moment’s notice. The author plumped for the slower but more reliable road route – a three-hour drive from Glasgow followed by a two-hour ferry ride.
Ferries from Kennacraig to Port Askaig take just under two hours and to Port Ellen take two and a half hours
How to get around: Having a car to get around the isle is invaluable due to very limited public transport options (a bus runs up and down the island twice a day) and prohibitively expensive taxi firms (expect to pay up to £40 a trip at busy times). The author used Daly Cabs for late night runs.
Where to stay: The Port Charlotte Hotel is a stunning seafront property with a great bar and restaurant. Photos adorn the walls of the town’s locals playing bagpipes, drums and harps labelled with wonderful titles such as ‘Pigtown Fling, 2010’. The high-end Machrie Hotel and Golf Course is a favourite of American visitors looking to play the famous course, and there are plenty of inns including the Ballygrant Inn where many whisky lovers converge due to its knowledgeable owners.
Top things to do: Boat trips and fishing trips are available across the island. The author travelled with Venture West.
All distilleries will have open days, tours and tastings available but some are closed at weekends so be sure to check out their websites before heading off.