Your full Wanderlust guide to
Hong Kong
No longer just the ‘barren rock’ occupied by the British two centuries ago, the Special Administrative Region of Hong Kong – which includes the eponymous island, the Kowloon Peninsula, extensive New Territories and outlying islands – is ideally placed as a launchpad for exploring southern China and South-East Asia, as well as a captivating destination in its own right.
Don’t be misled by the gleaming glass towers. Push past the lingering residues of British colonisation and the Hello Kitty and fast food chains and you’ll discover the older culture that underpins Hong Kong. In the shadows of skyscrapers, traditional fishing settlements and Taoist temples thick with sandalwood thrive, while scrummy noodle shops and vibrant street markets soak up the daily grind.
The thrum of the city is infectious, whether its the neon rainbows that blur the night sky or the delicious array of noodle soups, bite-size dim sum and silk-stocking milk tea, which are worth the flight alone.
But there’s more than busy streets here. The Peak Tram on Hong Kong Island lifts you up to lofty vistas of the city’s flickering skyline, while the Star Ferry lets you criss-cross the harbour for a bargain historic ride. There’s greenery too, found in hiking, birdwatching and kayaking trips among the islands and New Territories, which offer an impossibly lush antidote to the slick bars and restaurants of Central, Lan Kwai Fong and Soho or the boutiques and markets of Kowloon.
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When to go to Hong Kong
Summer (late May–mid-September) brings sweltering heat, high humidity and thunderstorms, with temperatures reaching 31°C+. It is also typhoon season. Spring (March-April) and autumn (October-November) are the most comfortable times to visit. Winter (January-February) is often cool and overcast, although temperatures rarely drop below 10°C.
Pretty much every month is festival month in Hong Kong. Most important is the Chinese New Year in late January/early February, with parades, a riot of fireworks and special dishes served in homes and restaurants.
International airports
Hong Kong International Airport (HKG) is on Chek Lap Kok, an outcrop of Lantau Island, and west of Hong Kong Island. Easily accessible by the Airport Express railway, around a 30-minute ride brings you to the city centre. Airport buses are a good alternative.
Getting around in Hong Kong
Hong Kong has a well-developed and efficient Mass Transit Railway system that extends to almost every part of the city, making most places, including Hong Kong Island, easily accessible by metro. Additionally, Light Rail covers much of the north-west New Territories, and the East Rail Line connects Hong Kong up north to Shenzhen in mainland China.
Ferries are important transport modes between Hong Kong’s harbours and numerous islands. The iconic Star Ferry links Kowloon with Hong Kong Island. Other services link Central with Cheung Chau, Lantau and Lamma Islands, and west to Macau. Ferries from Wong Shek and Ma Liu Shui serve islands in the New Territories.
Trams trundle along Hong Kong Island’s north shore, while the Peak Tram – really a funicular railway – ascends the eponymous viewpoint.
Buses and cheap taxis are easy ways of exploring – red taxis serve most of Hong Kong (except for Tung Chung Road and the south side of Lantau Island); green taxis operate in the rural areas of the New Territories; and blue taxis only run in Lantau.
Health & safety
There are few places safer than Hong Kong, though it’s best to keep an eye on possessions, as you would in any other city. Water quality is variable, due to old pipes – drink filtered or bottled water.
Venomous snakes in the New Territories tend to avoid humans, but take care in long grass. Heat can be intense – carry plenty of water if walking on remote tracks.
Go to gov.uk for more travel advice.
