You searched for feed - Wanderlust https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/ Wanderlust Magazine Tue, 02 Jul 2024 14:11:08 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Experience the essence of Uzbekistan https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/experience-the-essence-of-uzbekistan/ Wed, 26 Jun 2024 09:38:04 +0000 https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=76409 View the story Cultural Heritage Unique Architecture Flavourful Cuisine Experience the essence of Uzbekistan From ancient Silk Road heritage to…

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Experience the essence of Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan is the heart of the Silk Road, a Central Asian republic which preserves the romance of historic trade and travel, but also draws upon its rich, multicultural past, reinterpreting it to create a modern, vibrant destination.

Board the high-speed train and race across the country from the Tian Shan Mountains to the sands of the Aralkum, but also allow time to wander slowly through the backstreets and bazaars, soaking up the sights and sounds.

You’ll find dazzlingly decorated monuments juxtaposed with cutting-edge modern designs, a tantalisingly tasty local cuisine, and warm, outward-looking locals who treat their guests like royalty.

Cultural Heritage

Brits have long been enamoured with the Silk Road, and with Uzbekistan in particular. From James Elroy Flecker’s The Golden Journey to Samakrand to Robert Byron’s The Road to Oxiana, the lure of these places – and of the voyages to get there – permeates our national consciousness and popular literature.

That’s no surprise: Alexander the Great was so bowled over by Samarkand that he declared it was more beautiful than he ever imagined; and even Genghis Khan, not normally known for his sentimentality, admired the Kalon Minaret so much that he forbade his Mongol troops from touching it, even as they razed the rest of Bukhara to the ground.

 Silk Road Cities

Uzbekistan’s Silk Road cities still captivate even the most world-weary of travellers. Four cities, Bukhara, Khiva, Samarkand, and Shakhrisabz, have UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and numerous smaller monuments are recognised by UNESCO as part of the Silk Roads: Zarafshan-Karakum Corridor group.

In a matter of days you can watch sunrise over the Chilpik Dakhma, a Zoroastrian tower of silence first constructed in the 1st century BC; imagine the decadent lifestyle enjoyed by the khans of Khiva in the magnificent palaces of the Ichan Qala; climb the 104 steps to the top of the Kalon Minaret (yes, it’s still standing!); and say a quiet prayer in the courtyard of the Bibi Khanym Mosque, once the largest mosque in Central Asia. The mausoleums and shrines, bathhouses and bazaars, caravanserais and madrassas are almost too numerous to count.

Must-try experiences

Intangible Cultural Heritage

It is not just about the built environment, though: Uzbekistan’s intangible cultural heritage is just as rich. Add to your itinerary a visit to a ceramics workshop in Rishtan or Gijduvan, learn the art of silk weaving in Margilan, and marvel at the artworks of Bukharan artists, Davron and Davlat Toshev, and their students at the Ustoz Shogird Miniature Painting Studio.

The textiles collections at the Sitorai Mokhi Khosa in Bukhara and the State Museum of Applied Arts will give you a good introduction to national costumes, but the best way to appreciate clothes, headwear, and jewellery is to see them worn.

You will sometimes see Uzbekistanis out and about in traditional dress, particularly on special occasions, but the most elaborate attire is reserved for dancing and other live performances.

Book tickets for a performance at the El Merosi Theatre of Historical Costume in Samarkand, or attend one of the nightly shows in the courtyard of Bukhara’s Nodir Divan Beghi Madrassa.

Must-try experiences

Lively Festivals

Uzbekistan’s calendar is punctuated with lively festivals, so schedule your trip if you can to coincide with a big event. Navruz (Persian New Year) marks the summer solstice, the start of spring, and so is always on 21 March.

There are typically carnival-like parades for Independence Day on 1 September, and thanks to Soviet influence, New Year’s Eve is celebrated like a secular Christmas. Individual cities are also capable of putting on quite a spectacle, so look out for the likes of Stihia Festival in Muynaq, Baysun Bahori in Baysun, Silk and Spices in Bukhara, and the 99 Fish Dish Festival in Nukus, too.

Unique Architecture

If you love architecture, you will be in your element. Uzbekistan offers a jaw-dropping array of styles, from Buddhist monasteries with a strong Graeco-Bactrian influence, to monuments from the Golden Age of Islam, and even distinctive Tashkent Modernism. Construction and creativity go hand in hand as national obsessions.

 Religious landmarks

Much inspiration for Uzbekistan’s most impressive buildings has religious origins. Buddhism spread to Central Asia from India 2,000 years ago, and you can still see the dome of a stupa shadowing the courtyards of Fayaz Tepe. Its sister monastery, Kara Tepe, is only moments away, and Buddhist artefacts excavated, including a statue of Buddha sat under the sacred bodhi tree, take pride of place in Termez Archaeological Museum.

The arrival of Islam from the 8th century onwards tied Central Asia politically and culturally to Arabia and Persia, which is why you see such a strong resemblance between Uzbekistan’s medieval monuments and those in Iran. Mosques, madrassas, and mausoleums shimmer with gold and glazed tiles; their blue-green colour scheme is emblematic of the Silk Road.

With very few exceptions, religious buildings are open to both men and women, and as long as you are respectfully dressed, those of all religions and none are welcome.

Must-visit places

Dazzling cities

Samarkand is the anchor destination of every tour itinerary, and rightly so: the Registan is unmissable. Flanked by three mighty madrassas, there’s nothing for it but to stand and stare in awe. The Bibi Khanym Mosque, the Shah-i Zinda necropolis, and the Gur-i Amir, the mausoleum of national hero Amir Timur, are all within walking distance of the Registan, and the fascinating astronomical observatory of Emperor Ulugbek is only a short drive away.

Bukhara has an altogether different feel: unlike Samarkand where the old and new cities are entwined, when you enter Bukhara’s Old City, it feels as if you are stepping back in time. The Ark Fortress dominates the skyline, but although the emir who resided here possessed wealth and political power, Bukhara’s spiritual influence and reputation for scholarship came from the surrounding mosques and madrassas. The Mir-i Arab Madrassa is particularly important as it is still a place of Islamic learning today.

In Khiva, often described as an open air museum, there are so many madrassas that smaller ones have been converted into heritage hotels. Multiple minarets tower like trees above this desert city, but the greatest of its architectural delights is the Juma Mosque’s forest of wooden pillars. Every one of the 213 elm columns is carved in a different pattern, creating a meditative space just a stone’s throw away from the earthly pleasures of the Tash Hauli palace.

Must-see sights

Modernist architecture

Do not forget about Uzbekistan’s Modernist architecture, either. Fans of Brutalism have plenty to enjoy, especially in Tashkent where stand-out examples include Hotel Uzbekistan and the People’s Friendship Palace. Since March 2024, about 160 Soviet-era mosaics have been added to the national register for cultural heritage sites. You will see them decorating everything from apartment blocks to factories, and bus stops to station platforms. This love of tiles has lasted centuries.

Flavourful Cuisine

Visiting Uzbekistan is a feast for every one of your senses, and when you smell freshly baked bread wafting from the tandyr, or see the shiny red strawberries piled high, it is inevitable that your stomach will start rumbling. Sightseeing always builds up an appetite, and the Uzbekistani people take incredible pride both in their cuisine and in affectionately overfeeding their guests.

 National dishes

Unsurprisingly, Uzbekistan’s national dishes reflect the country’s Silk Road history. Every family has their own recipe for plov, the rice-based dish which is a close cousin of pilaf and biryani; somsa are pastries akin to samosas, encompassing a tasty hot filling of meat and onion or soft pumpkin; and you’ll want to slurp up multiple bowls of laghman, a hearty noodle soup typically topped with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of dill.

Every community which has come to or traded with Uzbekistan has made their mark on regional gastronomy, which is why you’ll see Russian borscht on menus and even Korean kimchi in the bazaars!

Must-try delicacies

One dish you won’t find anywhere else in the world is shivit oshi, a speciality of Khiva. These bright green noodles are made by hand; the colour comes from the finely chopped herbs which are kneaded into the dough. Eaten with a meat and vegetable stew and washed down with plentiful cups of green tea, it’s a meal you will reminisce about long after you have returned home.

Agriculture remains an important part of Uzbekistan’s economy even today, and in the summer and autumn months in particular, fresh produce is abundant. At every meal, the dining table is weighed down with salads and plates of fruits; there are pyramids of vegetables as tall as a man in the markets; and by the side of the road, people sell buckets of whatever they have grown in their garden.

The strawberries, cherries, and apricots are particularly sweet in late spring and summer, and then in the cooler months you have the indescribable pleasures of pomegranates, often squeezed as juice, and winter melons.

Food festivals

Across Uzbekistan there are harvest and food festivals to celebrate local produce. The 99 Fish Dish Festival in Nukus, the Melon Festival in Khiva, and Tashkent Food Festival all draw large crowds. But if your trip doesn’t coincide with a gastronomic extravaganza, fret not: visit any local market for tastings and street food. The selection in Tashkent’s Chorsu Bazaar and Navoi’s Central Market is splendid; and the colourful Siyob Bazaar is right next to the Bibi Khanum Mosque in Samarkand.

Uzbekistan has always had a thriving teahouse culture, which you will still see in places like Bukhara’s Lyabi Hauz. But now the restaurant scene is rapidly developing, too, and the variety of foods is growing, including for vegetarians and vegans. In Tashkent, there’s hardly a cuisine you won’t find: there’s a superb Japanese chef at Humo Restaurant, the best Lebanese food is at Resto Forn Lebnen, and the Georgian food at Gruzinskiy Dvorik rivals that in Tbilisi.

Feeling inspired?

Experience Uzbekistan’s rich history, culture and cuisine for yourself.

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Trip planner: Plot your perfect route around Austria https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/trip-planner-austria/ Mon, 24 Jun 2024 07:06:27 +0000 https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=76330 From the tip of Grossglockner to the cafés of Vienna, plot your perfect route through Austria’s cultured cities, vine-filled countryside and Alpine grandeur...

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From the tip of Grossglockner to the cafés of Vienna, plot your perfect route through Austria’s cultured cities, vine-filled countryside and Alpine grandeur…

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From the tip of Grossglockner to the cafés of Vienna, plot your perfect route through Austria’s cultured cities, vine-filled countryside and Alpine grandeur

Words Rudolf Abraham

Cities of wonder

Soak up gilded glories, Baroque palaces and cultural festivals in urban Austria

Best for: Art, architecture, history, music, museums, restaurants, cafés and bars
Why go: Visit some of the most vibrant, culture-rich cities in Europe, full of history and atmosphere
Route: Bregenz; Innsbruck; Salzburg; Linz; Vienna; Graz

Bregenz, the capital of the state of Vorarlberg, hugs the shore of Lake Constance. It’s a small city with an international feel, top-notch cuisine and stacks of charm. Pay visits to the Vorarlberg cultural museum, the equally striking Kusthaus Bregenz art museum, and the impressive St Martin’s Tower (Martinsturm) in the Old Town, then finish by the lakeside watching the setting sun. And don’t miss the Bregenz festival in July/August – it has world-class opera performed on a floating stage.

From there you can take a direct train to the Tirolean capital, Innsbruck, a city graced by a beautiful historic centre. Innsbruck’s number-one landmark is the Goldenes Dachl, a Late-Gothic loggia built for the Emperor Maximilian I and adorned with more than 2,600 gilded copper tiles.

Alternatively, escape all this history and take a funicular/cable car up to the mountain playground of the Nordkette.

Next, hop on a direct train to Salzburg. The city’s UNESCO-listed historic core is incredibly well preserved and sports a panoply of Baroque architecture – including a fine cathedral – clustered below a sprawling hilltop castle. Drop by Mozart’s birthplace in the Old Town, then cross the river to visit the elegant Mirabell Palace and Gardens. The Salzburg Festival in July/August is another must-not-miss.

While many race between Salzburg and Vienna, it’s worth stopping in Linz – home to the Lentos Kunstmuseum (modern art), Ars Electronica Centre (science and tech) and Schlossmuseum (history), as well as one of Europe’s most modern opera houses. There’s some hugely impressive street art down in the harbour area, while the elongated Hauptplatz and the narrow streets of the surrounding Innere Stadt have some excellent restaurants. The city’s Brucknerfest – in honour of the classical composer Anton Bruckner – is one of the major highlights in Austria’s festival calendar. And with 2024 marking the bicentenary of Bruckner’s birth, this promises to be a special edition.

Vienna needs little introduction. This imperial capital was the centre of power for the ruling House of Habsburg for half a millennium, and remains one of the most culturally rich cities on Earth. And yet, the Austrian capital is a city with more to offer than the reductive stereotype of ‘classical Vienna’. Yes, it has some of the finest Baroque palaces and art collections in the world, but it’s also a youthful city with plenty of LGBTQ+-friendly spaces and a real joie de vivre. Along with the Baroque splendour of Schönbrunn Palace and the imperial grandeur of the Ringstrasse boulevard, make sure to take in the marvels of the Vienna Secession art movement, the old Jewish Quarter around Judenplatz and buzzy neighbourhoods like the 9th District, with its excellent Sigmund Freud Museum and underrated dining scene.

Finally, hop on the train and travel south to Graz, a route that takes you along the historic Semmering railway. A vibrant University city, Graz was Austria’s first European Capital of Culture (back in 2003). It’s also a UNESCO City of Design and a place where tradition collides headlong into contemporary art and architecture – in the best possible way. And if that hasn’t convinced you to take a gamble, it’s also the foodie capital of Austria

Beautiful Innsbruck buries its gilded historical centre in the shadow of the rugged Karwendel and Nordkette ranges (Alamy)

Beautiful Innsbruck buries its gilded historical centre in the shadow of the rugged Karwendel and Nordkette ranges (Alamy)

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Push boundaries at the Vorarlberg Museum

The Vorarlberg in Bregenz is the state’s leading museum. Its permanent collection and temporary exhibitions reflect, on the one hand, its responsibility to conserve and present the region’s history and cultural landscape; on the other, it showcases an examination of trends and movements in the world of contemporary art. Reopened around a decade ago, after a rather spectacular and expensive overhaul, its collection contains nearly 160,000 objects covering the region’s archaeology, history, art and folklore. The permanent exhibition Buchstäblich Vorarlberg presents the region’s history and culture through a series of carefully selected objects arranged alphabetically from A to Z. The architecture, like the collections themselves, is a juxtaposition of the old and the new: part listed building, part emphatically modern. As if to ram home the latter point, the ‘dotted’ texture of its exterior is modelled on the bases of plastic drinks bottles.

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Explore the Styrian capital on foot

Graz sees far fewer visitors than Vienna and Salzburg, and yet it’s a city that positively shines when given a chance. Start your tour at the Kunsthaus, its contemporary art gallery – an amazing piece of modern architecture by Peter Cook and Colin Fournier, which opened to coincide with the city’s stint as a European Capital of Culture. Also known as the ‘Friendly Alien’, it looks rather like a giant organic blob, or sea slug, which has been unleashed among the neat, terracotta-tiled roofs of the old buildings alongside the River Mur. Cross the Mur via the spectacular artificial island of Murinsel (pictured) and wander the streets of the Old Town. Try to catch the Glockenspiel when it strikes, then visit the Styrian Armoury (the largest historical armoury in the world) before heading up the steps to Castle Hill, where there’s no longer any castle (Napoleon saw to that). The iconic clocktower still stands, though, and the neatly laid-out gardens offer fabulous views over the city.

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Visit Mozart’s birthplace in Salzburg

Visit Mozart’s birthplace (Mozarts Geburtshaus) in Salzburg
Mozart was born in Salzburg, but moved to the Austrian capital at the age of 25. While Vienna has the lion’s share of celebrated musical venues, and its own Mozart House (one of several where the composer lived in the capital, but the only one to have survived until this day), Mozart’s birthplace in Salzburg remains rather special among Austria’s many musical highlights. The house (pictured) on Getreidegasse has been transformed into a beautiful museum, spread across three floors. It has uncluttered, state-of-the-art display cases, yet manages to not lose the feeling of being an 18th-century house. Mozart lived here until 1773, when the family moved to the Mozart Residence on Salzburg’s Makartplatz. The displays include several of the composer’s own musical instruments, including his fortepiano, Costa violin, viola and his childhood violin. Letters and information about his relationship with family and friends do a good job of bringing the man and his character to life.

ASK A LOCAL

“Vienna is an unfinished symphony. From the medieval St Stephen’s cathedral to the Baroque Schönbrunn palace, it glides on through the Ringstrasse to the Opera House and Parliament. The last movement guides you from the golden age of Klimt and Schiele through the fall of the Habsburgs and the dark age of Nazi barbarism, up to its resurrection after the Second World War.”

Klaus Pokorny, Press & PR Manager, Leopold Museum, Vienna

(Klaus Pokorny)

(Klaus Pokorny)

Mountains to conquer

Run your fingers along the roof of Europe on Austria’s mountain trails

Best for: Alpine landscapes, hiking and the outdoors, hut-to-hut walks, long-distance trails, wildlife, gentle adventures
Why go: Sublime hiking among some of the most spectacularly beautiful mountain scenery on Earth, plus excellent mountain biking and winter skiing
Route: Tirol; Hohe Tauern National Park; Salzkammergut and Dachstein

Almost 28% of the Alps lies within Austria. It is a greater proportion than any other country in Europe, and nothing defines this nation so immediately – and dramatically – as its magnificent mountains. The Austrian Alps are synonymous with beautiful mountain trails, boasting enough vivid scenery and epic views to last a lifetime. From lakeside strolls to legendary long-distance treks like the Eagle Walk (413km) across the mountains of Tirol, hiking in Austria is a hugely rewarding experience. And it’s not just hiking – Austria’s ranges are home to plenty of thrilling mountain bike trails.

And then there are the hütten. Austrian mountain huts are institutions in themselves – cosy and welcoming, and as much a defining characteristic of the country as its sophisticated hotels and coffee houses, or its breathtaking art collections. They are a place to stop for the night and enjoy a hearty meal, seek advice, enjoy good company and conversation, or just indulge in some kaffee und kuchen (because even in the hills, you should never be without Austrian cakes).

Start in the mountains of Tirol, where you can take your pick from among 24,000km of marked hiking trails. Look to the Stubai Alps or Zillertal, south and east of Innsbruck respectively, for an astonishing range of hiking routes, including some fabulous hut-to-hut trails like the Stubaier Höhenweg. Both areas are easily reached from Innsbruck by bus (Stubai) or train (Zillertal). Or head for the Wilder Kaiser (direct train from Innsbruck to St Johann in Tirol) or the slightly more gentle Kitzbühel Alps (direct train from Innsbruck to Kitzbühel). Ötztal is particularly good for mountain biking (again, take a direct train from Innsbruck).

From Tirol, head for Hohe Tauern National Park, a vast sprawl of jagged peaks slashed by beautiful valleys and gorges. It is one of the greatest hiking regions in the Alps, and a fantastic area for seeing wildlife and masses of wildflowers. At the heart of the Hohe Tauern range lies the Grossglockner (3,798m), the country’s highest peak. One of the best ways to get close to this Alpine giant is by tackling the Glockner Trail, which makes a roughly 100km circuit of the mountain via a succession of huts.

For something less demanding, pick off a section of the Hohe Tauern Panorama Trail, a multi-day hiking route through the mountains just north of the Hohe Tauern, with incredible views across the Salzach. Indeed, if shorter hikes are what you’re looking for, consider basing yourself in the village of Heiligenblut, in Carinthia. And if you’re driving (or cycling), you’ll almost certainly want to explore the Grossglockner High Alpine Road (Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse), which crosses the Hochtor Pass.

Finally, you’ll find plenty of scenic challenges in the Salzkammergut region, east of Salzburg. With its 76 lakes, easily accessible trails and the gob-smacking Dachstein massif running across its southern edge, it’s a great area for day hikes. Salzkammergut is easily reached from Salzburg by taking the bus to Bad Ischl, then getting a train; or go via Bischofshofen to access the south side of the Dachstein.

Going village and the the Wilder Kaiser mountains (Alamy)

Going village and the the Wilder Kaiser mountains (Alamy)

(Teresa Kritzinger)

(Teresa Kritzinger)

Trek the accessible Alpe Adria Trail

The Alpe Adria Trail is one of Austria’s greatest long-distance challenges – and also one of its most accessible. Starting from the foot of Grossglockner, the route heads south for 750km, through Carinthia, Slovenia and northern Italy, to finish on the shores of the Adriatic. Of course, you don’t have to do the whole, epic trail – plenty of the sections in Austria can be combined for a more manageable escape lasting five days or a week, or can also work as day walks. Start from Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe, which has views across the mighty sprawl of the Pasterze Glacier (the largest glacier in the Eastern Alps), and follow the route along and above the Mölltal Glacier for a week, finishing in Mallnitz, where you can pick up the train. Or start in Seeboden and do a five-day hike across the rugged Nockberge, a mountain range with a completely different character to the jagged peaks of the Hohe Tauern.

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Hut-to-hut hiking in Salzburgerland

Hut-to-hut hiking in Salzburgerland
The Salzburger Almenweg is a long-distance trail through Salzburgerland. Despite being much less well-known (at least in the UK) than many of the trails in neighbouring Tirol, it is a superb journey, offering plenty of stupendous scenery, wildflowers and wildlife. It has a particularly good succession of cosy mountain huts. Throw in a massive castle with some of the best falconry displays in Austria (Burg Hohenwerfen), one of the largest ice caves in the world (Eisriesenwelt), breathtaking views of the Hohe Tauern, the Hochkönig and the Tennengebirge, and you have all the makings of a very memorable three- or four-week trek. For a short taster, pick off a few stages in the north near Werfen and Arthurhaus, or further south around Grössarl. This is simply one of the very best introductions to hut-to-hut hiking anywhere in the Alps.

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Explore the Dachstein and Salzkammergut

The UNESCO-listed Dachstein massif is a vast limestone plateau that towers above the Hallstätter See. Along with the surrounding Salzkammergut region, it’s a great place to combine day hikes with visits to historic salt mines and gorgeous lakes, which are perfect for a refreshing swim after a day on the trail. Cable cars make access to the Dachstein plateau easy, and there are some superlative trails. But don’t underestimate the hikes up here – there’s little in the way of shade and the summer months can be unforgiving. Try the Dachstein Nature Trail, a beautiful one-day walk that runs between three mountain huts (Gjaidalm, Wiesberghaus and Simonyhütte)and serves up fantastic views of the Hallstätter Glacier. Or opt for the easier Heilbronner Trail, a circular 8km hike that offers some dazzling panoramas above 2,000m. Some of the best lakeside trails in Salzkammergut are in the Ausseerland region, where you can make a detour to Altausseer See for chocolate-box views and great swimming spots.

ASK A LOCAL

“The karst plateau of the Dachstein is very diverse. There’s something for every mountain enthusiast here – be it skiing, ski touring and snowshoeing in winter, or mountaineering, hut hikes and climbing in summer. The Wiesberghaus is a refuge on the edge of the forest: a meeting place for hikers, experienced mountaineers, climbers and families. Dogs are also very welcome. We provide guests with homemade hut delicacies – and on cosy hut evenings, we play Styrian harmonica, harp and guitar.”

Teresa Kritzinger, hüttenwirtin (hut warden) at Wiesberghaus, Dachstein

(Teresa Kritzinger)

(Teresa Kritzinger)

Culture to savour

Devour classical music, art, crafts and history in museums and venues across Austria

Best for: Art and architecture, museums, music, crafts and heritage
Why go: Experience Austria’s cultural riches, from superb art collections and museums to era-defining architecture, as well as some of the finest music venues in Europe
Route: Imst; Salzburg; Salzkammergut; Vienna; Burgenland

Austria has culture in spades. From the imperial court of the Habsburgs, where generations of patronage funded Europe’s finest artists, architects and composers, to the traditional crafts and heritage practised in rural areas, there is plenty to mull over.

Shrovetide carnival traditions, in particular, come with a distinctively Alpine flavour – and nowhere more so than in Imst, near Innsbruck. With its hand-carved wooden masks, colourful costumes and intricate dances, the Imst carnival takes place every four years, and is inscribed on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. At the Fasnacht Museum you can see masks and costumes from this and other (annual) carnival traditions on display.

Next, take the train from Innsbruck to Salzburg, then continue by bus into the Salzkammergut region to experience why it was made a European Capital of Culture for 2024 (see p114). You can continue by train from Bad Ischl to Vienna via Attnang-Puchheim.

The Austrian capital is tied inextricably to music, with many of the greatest composers in history having lived there. Schubert was a native of Vienna, as were Johann Strauss I and II, Schoenberg, Weber and others, while Mozart, Beethoven, Bruckner and Mahler all spent some of the most productive years of their careers in the city.

Music is in the capital’s DNA, and there are lots of opportunities to catch a concert or festival performed by world-class orchestras and ensembles. Check the programmes of the Musikverein, Wiener Konzerthaus (seat of the Vienna Symphony Orchestra), Vienna State Opera and MuTh (home to the Vienna Boys’ Choir), as well as St Anne’s Church and St Stephen’s Cathedral. Or for something more intimate, catch a concert in a Viennese coffee house such as Konzertcafé Schmid Hansl. Head to Club Porgy and Bess for live jazz, or dive into Vienna’s underground music scene along the Gürtel, a busy road with clubs and venues occupying the arches beneath the former Stadtbahn (the arches themselves were designed by Otto Wagner, a leading architect of the Vienna Secession).

Austria produced some of the greatest artists of the late 19th and early 20th centuries – Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka, Koloman Moser, the list goes on. There’s nowhere better to appreciate their legacy than Vienna. For Jugendstil architecture, head to the Secession Building (built to showcase the work of this art movement) where you can see Klimt’s striking Beethoven Frieze (and listen to Beethoven’s ‘Ode to Joy’ on the headphones provided as accompaniment). Or head to the Leopold Museum where the permanent Vienna 1900 exhibition places the work of Austria’s artists within the context of the changes that swept society at the turn of the 20th century. Also check out Otto Wagner’s Church of St Leopold at Steinhof, and the Majolica House and Muse House on Wienzeile.

From Vienna, take a bus to Oberpullendorf in central Burgenland to visit the Blaudruckerei Koó, a traditional indigo dyeing workshop in nearby Steinberg – one of only a handful left in Central Europe.

Vienna’s Museums Quartier lies just south-west of Maria-Theresien-Platz and spans some 90,000 sqm of the city (Alamy)

Vienna’s Museums Quartier lies just south-west of Maria-Theresien-Platz and spans some 90,000 sqm of the city (Alamy)

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Explore Vienna’s amazing museums

There’s far more to Vienna than its museums; however, they also happen to be some of the finest on the planet, and you really shouldn’t leave without visiting a few of them. Highlights include the Leopold Museum in the MuseumsQuartier – home to the world’s largest collection of works by Egon Schiele, as well as plenty of Kokoshka and Klimt. You’ll also find the era-defining permanent exhibition Vienna 1900 here. The Baroque palace of Belvedere is another venue with a superb collection – and is where you’ll discover Klimt’s painting The Kiss (pictured). Elsewhere, MUMOK is the city’s leading museum of modern art, and is due to reopen in June following a renovation. Other must-sees include the excellent Sigmund Freud Museum (in Freud’s former apartment), the Kunsthistorisches Museum, the Albertina Modern, and the newly reopened Wien Museum – one of the best places to learn more about the city’s fascinating history.

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Take in the European Capital of Culture 2024

The small, historic spa town of Bad Ischl, together with 22 other locations across the Salzkammergut region, is the European Capital of Culture 2024. Salzkammergut follows in the footsteps of Graz and Linz, which held the title in 2003 and 2009 respectively – and it’s the first time ever that a rural Alpine area has been a European Capital of Culture. Around 200 events are planned across the year – exhibitions, concerts, installations – showcasing the region’s long history and questioning how it will respond to challenges in the present and future. Salzkammergut is also home to the UNESCO-listed salt mines at Hallstatt (pictured), where salt has been mined for around 7,000 years. There’s plenty to see: catch the Transcending Borders exhibition by Chinese artist Ai Weiwei, take an acrobatic journey through the world of Mahler’s music, or discover the Salzkammergut of yesterday in the photos of folklorist Konrad Mautner.

(Rudolf Abraham)

(Rudolf Abraham)

See traditional indigo dyeing in Burgenland

Blaudruckerei Koó is one of the last two remaining indigo-dyeing workshops in Austria. This third-generation family business is keeping alive a traditional craft that thrived in Central Europe between the 17th and 19th centuries. Located in the village of Steinberg, just outside Oberpullendorf in central Burgenland, Miriam and Joseph Koó (pictured) create beautiful, indigo-dyed textiles, with intricate patterns and designs made using wooden printing blocks – some of them well over 100 years old. The technique of indigo dyeing and resist block printing is long and time-consuming, but the process also uses no chemicals (making it superior to modern dyeing techniques, which often contain toxic substances and are a major source of river pollution). The results are unique. These fabrics are made into items that you’ll find for sale in the small shop. The other workshop is Blaudruckerei Wagner, in Upper Austria.

A culinary adventure

From rural wine taverns to Viennese cafés, Austria holds plenty of gastronomic surprises

Best for: Wine, wine routes, taverns, local produce, cakes
Why go: Spend time in a Viennese café, winery or country heuriger to sample all the flavours of Austria
Route: Wachau Valley; Vienna; Purbach and Rust; South Styria; Graz

Austria’s culinary highlights are myriad, and will take you from traditional taverns to Michelin-starred eateries, with a few excellent wine regions scattered in between.

Start in the Wachau Valley, a stretch of the Danube that lies west of Vienna, between Krems an der Donau and Melk. This UNESCO-listed landscape is a ripe blend of vineyards, historic abbeys and castles, and is one of the country’s finest wine regions, producing show-stopping bottles of grüner veltliner. The best way to explore the area is by bike, following the charming Danube Cycle Path. Try to combine a day of pedalling with a Danube cruise, taking the boat in one direction (bikes can be taken onboard – reserve a place for them when you book your ticket), then returning to Krems on two wheels.

The star of the Wachau is the heuriger. These taverns have been a popular feature of the valley since the 1780s, when Emperor Joseph II granted winemakers a licence to serve their own wine (and later, food) on their properties, in order to supplement their income throughout the year. Both Krems and Melk are easily reached by train from Vienna.
Vienna has some of Austria’s best restaurants, its most historic coffee houses and a kaleidoscopic range of bars. Neighbourhood markets are a good bet for getting off the beaten track, while the city’s coffee houses are legendary. It’s also worth pointing out that – along with familiar favourites like wiener schnitzel and taffelspitz – the range of cuisines on offer in Vienna is vast. If you’re after a beer, Ottakringer is Vienna’s best-known brewery, and does a range of craft beers under the Brauwerk label (brewery tours on Thursdays and Saturdays). If you’re still thirsty, AmmutsØn is a hard-to-beat craft-beer bar in the vibrant 6th District.

Next up, take a train over to Neusiedlersee, the huge lake in northern Burgenland. This excellent birdwatching and biodiversity hotspot encompasses a national park, Natura 2000 site and RAMSAR site. The area is also one of Austria’s top wine regions; in many cases, you’ll even find small plots of vines within the boundaries of the national park.

This part of Austria is noted for its zweigelt and welschriesling grapes (the latter used for fabulous dessert wines), as well as its blaufränkisch. This is also a great place to sample the delights of a heuriger (or buschenschank, as they’re known here and in Styria). Stop in the villages of Purbach or Rust to enjoy a glass or two of local wine along with a cold platter. Boats run across the lake, plus this is another of those Austrian lowland areas tailor-made for cycling.

Now, head to Graz (direct train from Vienna, or from Burgenland via Wiener Neustadt). Graz sits at the centre of some of the best local produce in Styria, meaning the quality of food on offer in the city’s restaurants and taverns is extremely good. For the quintessential Grazer snack, stop in at deli Frankowitsch for its trademark brötchen (an open sandwich with a plethora of toppings) and a glass of wine. Graz makes a great springboard for visiting South Styria, home to the South Styrian Wine Road and more buschenschanks than anywhere else in the country. It’s also a place where gemütlichkeit (cordiality) reigns supreme.

The coffee houses of Vienna are as heavenly as the cakes they serve (Alamy)

The coffee houses of Vienna are as heavenly as the cakes they serve (Alamy)

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

South Styrian Wine Road

Austria has several exceptional wine regions, and many excellent wine routes; however, nowhere encapsulates Austrian wine, wine making and its wine taverns quite so well as South Styria. The South Styrian Wine Road stretches west from Ehrenhausen, close to the border with Slovenia. This is a landscape of steeply pitched vineyards dotted with what look like giant wooden windmills (known as klapotec), which are actually an ingenious means of scaring away birds. Ehrenhausen is just a short train ride from Graz, and the wine road itself is best explored by bike or e-bike. You can also get about using the handy ‘wine taxi’, provided as a free service with a large number of local guesthouses. Along with top-notch wines (gelber muskateller and sauvignon blanc feature prominently), South Styria, or Südsteiermark, is famed for its family-run buschenschanks, which serve wine and food made from the abundant local produce – best appreciated alongside a delicious cold platter (brettljause).

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Vienna’s coffee houses

First off, it’s not just about the coffee. What sets Viennese coffee houses apart is their history, the setting, their atmosphere – not to mention the cakes. Sitting in a coffee house like Café Central (on Herrengasse), with its mid-19th-century architecture and newspaper racks, you’ll be following on the heels of the likes of Sigmund Freud, Leon Trotsky and a slew of Austrian writers and poets (including Peter Altenberg, who was such a fixture that he had his mail delivered there). And as for the desserts – well, a slice of chocolate-smothered, apricot jam-infused Sachertorte is a moment to remember. Some other landmark Vienna coffee houses include Café Hawelka (on Dorotheergasse; once a hangout of Andy Warhol), Café Sacher (on Philharmoniker Strasse; opened in 1876 by the son of the pastry chef credited with inventing Sachertorte), Café Goldegg (on Argentinierstrasse; with a superb Jugendstil interior), and the still local-feeling Café Jelinek (on Otto-Bauer-Gasse).

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

The culinary capital of Graz

Vienna’s food scene is legendary, and most of the country’s Michelin-starred restaurants are concentrated in the capital, or in Salzburg. Nevertheless, Austria’s true culinary capital is arguably Graz. With around 300 urban farmers, this city is surrounded by some of the country’s finest produce, from the legendary pumpkin seed oil of South Styria to fantastic hops and apples (more than three-quarters of the country’s apples are grown in Styria). And that’s before you even mention the superb wine. The city has more than a dozen farmers’ markets supplying an incredibly vibrant food scene, from fine-dining restaurants to street food and rustic taverns, with several outstanding vegetarian and vegan options. Take a stroll around the city’s largest farmers’ market on Kaiser-Josef-Platz, then stop off at the market on Lendplatz with its wonderful food stalls. Stock up on fresh bread, local cheeses and charcuterie, then drag your haul to the banks of the River Mur or one of the city’s parks to enjoy the perfect picnic.

ASK A LOCAL

“What makes the South Styrian wine region so special? To me Südsteiermark has plenty of hidden treasures. The food in a buschenschank is real, regional and homemade – what a joy. And making wine in such humid conditions is very difficult, but we know – and taste – that it’s worth it.”

Tamara Kögl, biodynamic and organic winemaker at Wiengut Kögl, Südsteiermark

(Rudolf Abraham)

(Rudolf Abraham)

Small-town Austria

Take in the mountain air and a slower pace of life in Austria’s lake, Alpine and spa towns

Best for: Food, architecture, hiking, outdoors, shopping
Why go: Scattered across mountain areas and beyond, Austria’s small towns have a charm all of their own, with a boutique feel and no shortage of that cosy feeling of welcome known as gemütlichkeit
Route: Kitzbühel; St Johann
in Tirol; Zell am See; St Johann im Pongau; St Gilgen; Bad Isch

Start in Kitzbühel, one of the most beautiful of Austria’s small Alpine towns. Its centre is a mix of cobbled streets and colourful facades, small galleries and cafés. The Kitzbühel Museum is a good place to learn more about the town, the surrounding region and its history. Then head up to the pretty Baroque town of St Johann in Tirol, the gateway to the great outdoor playground of the Wilder Kaiser.

Continue by train to Zell am See, which sits on the shore of Lake Zell and below the arc of mountains formed by the Schmittenhöhe. From the pretty town centre, walk down to the lakeside, where you can take a boat tour, rent an SUP or have a swim at one of the lidos. From here, take the train to St Johann im Pongau, where you can visit the prominent Neo-Gothic cathedral and the small-but-hardy Anna Chapel, which dates back to the 14th century. The local farm shop has a fantastic array of cheese, honey and schnapps from over 25 local producers. The number-one hike in the area is the sensational Liechtensteinklamm Gorge.

Take the train to Salzburg, then hop on a bus to St Gilgen. Of all the towns in the Salzkammergut region, this is one of the loveliest, and sits on the western shore of Wolfgangsee. Its main square is surrounded by traditional inns and hotels with geraniums spilling over wooden balconies. You can take a boat to the town of St Wolfgang, then switch to the Schafberg Railway to ride up to just below the summit of Schafberg.

Finally, continue by bus to Bad Ischl. This bijou spa town was once the summer residence of Emperor Franz Josef and Empress Sisi, and still carries an imperial air. Visit the Kaiservilla, enjoy a spa, or simply stop at a riverside café for coffee and irresistible Austrian cakes.

St Gilgen is one of the most captivating towns in the old Salzkammergut region, and perches elegantly on the 13 sq km Wolfgangse (Alamy)

St Gilgen is one of the most captivating towns in the old Salzkammergut region, and perches elegantly on the 13 sq km Wolfgangse (Alamy)

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Descend the ‘Helix’ into the
Liechtensteinklamm Gorge

The Liechtensteinklamm Gorge is a place of sheer rock walls and roaring waterfalls, and it makes for one of the most spectacularly impressive short walks anywhere in Austria. The trails into the gorge were completely renovated and rebuilt a few years ago, and the payoff is well worth the relatively effortless stroll. As well as all the galleries and tunnels, there’s a breathtaking spiral staircase (made of steel) that takes you some 30m down into the depths of the gorge.

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Take in the view from the Kitzsteinhorn

While you’re in Zell am See, take the K-onnection cable car from nearby Kaprun up Kitzsteinhorn. At 12km, it’s the longest continuous cable car axis in the Eastern Alps, and you can also join a tour with a national park guide, who will explain the different climatic zones on the way up. The landscape you’ll take in from the viewing platform, just below the 3,203m summit, is worth it, as you breathe in the grand sweep of high peaks, including Grossglockner (3,798m), It’s simply unforgettable.

ASK A LOCAL

“The uniqueness of cheese and cheese production in the Bregenzerwald region lies primarily in the traditional manufacturing process and the use of high-quality, natural ingredients. The cows grazing in the Alps feed on fresh grass, herbs and flowers, which positively impacts the quality of the milk.”

Bernhard Bär, organic cheesemaker at Alpe Schetteregg, KäseStrasse Bregenzerwald, Vorarlberg

(Bernhard Bär)

(Bernhard Bär)

The wild side

Explore national parks filled with birds and endemic mountain wildlife

Best for: Wildlife, the outdoors, wildflowers, lakes
Why go: To see some of Europe’s most iconic species, including rarities such as the great bustard
Route: Hohe Tauern National Park; Gesäuse National Park; Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park

Austria’s diverse landscapes range from soaring Alpine peaks and lush montane pastures to forested river valleys and limestone plateaus, to wetlands and endless steppe. These incredible habitats provide refuge to an amazing array of wildlife, from colourful butterflies to Alpine ibex, and some fantastic birdwatching hotspots.

Start your wildlife tour in Hohe Tauern National Park, the largest protected area in the Alps. It covers an area of 1,856 sq km and is home to around 15,000 animal species. The area around

Grossglockner is particularly good for spotting raptors, including bearded and griffon vultures, and golden eagles – the Krumltal is nicknamed the ‘Valley of the Vultures’.
Next, head east to the steep-sided river valleys of Gesäuse National Park, which is home to a huge diversity of species, including plenty of birdlife, and is a famed refuge for the elusive Eurasian lynx. It’s also easy enough to travel to by rail from Hohe Tauern (via Bischofshofen).

Finish in Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park, which you can reach via Vienna (direct trains at the weekend). Neusiedler See is the country’s most spectacular area for birding. You can spot everything from little crake (it has one of the largest breeding populations in Europe) to the great bustard and eastern imperial eagle. The lake covers a huge area, stretching across the border and into Hungary. It’s perfect for exploring by bike, and there’s plenty of wine taverns to dip into along the way.

The sure-footed Alpine ibex is just one of the many species you can spot here, and are often sighted above 2,000m Alamy)

The sure-footed Alpine ibex is just one of the many species you can spot here, and are often sighted above 2,000m Alamy)

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Gaze at golden eagles and Alpine ibex in Hohe Tauern National Park

The response when seeing a bearded vulture sweeping overhead is generally one of sheer awe. These huge birds have a wingspan that can reach nearly three metres, and they were reintroduced into the Hohe Tauern National Park in the 1980s. As far as conservation goes, the population that now lives here is one of the great success stories of wildlife reintroduction in Central Europe. This area is also among the best places in Austria to see golden eagles (there are over 40 breeding pairs in the national park), griffon vultures and the majestic Alpine ibex.

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

Birdwatching in Neusiedler
See-Seewinkel National Park

Neusiedler See is one of the greatest birdwatching sites in Austria. Here you can spot everything from spoonbills to white-tailed eagles, as well as thousands of migrating cranes (best seen between mid-October and mid-November). Of all its many highlights, nothing tops the spectacular springtime courtship displays of the world’s heaviest flying bird, the great bustard. Viewing platforms are provided so that visitors don’t scare the wildlife; even better, join a national park excursion and learn more about the park’s 370 recorded species of bird.

Need to know

When to go
There’s no wrong time of the year to visit Austria. There is sublime hiking between June and October, though you can expect snow on the high passes any earlier, and huts to be closed any later. Ski season runs from December to April, with some of the most reliable conditions from mid-January. March and early April can be a great time to ski in Austria minus the crowds. Advent in Vienna, Salzburg, Graz or Innsbruck is a magical period, thanks to its snow-dusted streets and Christmas markets. Equally, the long, balmy summer evenings in Vienna, when the cafés and bars spill out onto the cobbled streets and squares, are just as beautiful. Wildlife tends to be species-specific, with May/June good for butterflies in the Hohe Tauern and April to mid-May best for seeing great bustards at Neusiedler See.

Getting there & around
There are various regional direct flights from the UK to Austria, landing in Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck and Klagenfurt. Flights take upwards of two hours. Alternatively, you can get from London to Salzburg (via Brussels) by rail in as little as 11 hours, with the option of doing the journey by day, overnight on a comfy sleeper, or with an overnight stop.

Austria has an outstandingly good rail network, which is as reliable as it is comprehensive. Locations unreachable by train are generally covered by a bus route. Austria also has some superb cycle routes, including the Danube Cycle Path and the Alpe Adria Radweg.

Carbon offset
A return flight from London to Vienna produces 230kg of carbon per passenger. Wanderlust encourages you to offset your travel footprint through a reputable provider. For advice on how to find one, visit wanderlust.co.uk/sustainable-travel. .

Further information
The Austrian National Tourist Office website has plenty of tips and information for visiting the country’s regions, towns and cities.

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20 of the world’s most beautiful libraries https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/beautiful-libraries-around-the-world/ Wed, 05 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/inspiration/beautiful-libraries-around-the-world/ Stories of intrigue and imagination abound in these incredible libraries, which range from royal follies to monastic marvels...

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1. Admont Abbey Library, Austria

Admont Abbey Library (Alamy)

There is little that’s understated about the Benedictine abbey at Admont, 100km or so east of Salzburg. Museums stud the late-Baroque complex, showcasing Austrian art, religious artefacts and a surprisingly expansive natural-history collection. But the star of the show is the largest monastery library in the world. The seven vaulted domes of its 70m-long hall are adorned with celestial frescoes painted in 1776 by the then 80-year-old Bartolomeo Altomonte. Marble was used with lavish abandon, and seemingly every detail gleams gold, lending even the bookcases a Rococo flourish. Day visitors can take guided tours, peeking behind secret doors masked by dummy book spines, gazing at the 70,000 volumes on display and listening to tales of how all this grandeur was so nearly lost in the 1865 fire that devastated much of the monastery

2. Tianjin Binhai Library, Hebei Province, China

Tianjin Binhai Library (Alamy)

When is a library not a library? Designed and built in three years, practicality was thrown out of the window in favour of sci-fi grandeur at this marvel an hour’s train ride south-east of Beijing. The heart of its central hall is a giant white sphere around which undulating walls ripple skyward, textured like an enormous fingerprint bleached white. Its shelves rise six storeys, yet such was the speed of its build (and due to some strange town-planning quirks) that the upper shelves are inaccessible, with the book spines merely printed on; even volumes on lower levels are largely for show. The readable book collection lies hidden on the first- and second-floor reading rooms. But despite the deception – and social-media backlash when it opened in 2017 – it’s undeniably a true spectacle.

3. Bibliotheca Alexandrina, Alexandria, Egypt

Bibliotheca Alexandrina (Alamy)

Few haven’t heard of the Great Library of Alexandria, which was said to have contained all the wisdom of the ancient world. Likely established during Pharaoh Ptolemy I Soter’s reign (323–285BC), its destruction robbed us of untold knowledge. But, more than 2,000 years after fires lit by Julius Caesar’s forces sparked its decline, a successor appeared. Inaugurated in 2009, the modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a story in itself. The curved facade is made from huge granite slabs etched with languages spanning some 10,000 years, and a tilted roof shades its collection of some eight million books. Though its design bears little resemblance to descriptions of its predecessor, the tiered reading room echoes the amphitheatres of old. Tours in English (Saturday–Thursday) tell the stories of both libraries.

4. The Morgan Library & Museum, New York, USA

The Morgan Library & Museum (Alamy)

John Pierpont (JP) Morgan was a financial titan during the Gilded Age of the late 19th century, when unabashed displays of wealth were in fashion. Having amassed an array of beautiful books and manuscripts, he purchased a site on Madison Avenue on which to build a mansion and library housing his collection. Today, it includes one of the finest surviving copies of the original American Declaration of Independence, a manuscript of John Milton’s Paradise Lost and a handwritten score by Mozart. The building, completed in 1906, is every inch the rich man’s fantasy: an ersatz palazzo with walls draped in Renaissance art and a rotunda decorated with Raphael-inspired designs. A public institution since 1924, the expanded museum now incorporates Morgan’s mansion, and hosts exhibitions and concerts.

5. Piccolomini Library, Siena, Italy

Piccolomini Library (Shutterstock)

The black-and-white-striped stonework of Siena Cathedral is instantly recognisable. Inside, its vaulted ceiling is speckled with golden stars. But the brightest star here is the adjoining Piccolomini Library, commissioned in 1492 to house the book collection of the 15th-century Pope Pius II. Though few of his original volumes remain here – aside from some extraordinary illuminated manuscripts – Pinturicchio’s magnificent ten-fresco cycle depicting the life of the pontiff dazzles. It’s reputed to have been partly designed in the late 15th century by a young Raphael, who by tradition appears in one image. Pius II died of fever in 1464 while trying (and failing) to mount a crusade, but his story lives on in this incredible library.

6. Sainte-Geneviève Library, Paris, France

Sainte-Geneviève Library (Alamy)

French architect Henri Labrouste believed that buildings should reflect their origins. So, in the mid-19th century, when he was asked to create the first major library in France attached to neither a palace, monastery or school, he turned to its history. Bolstered by booty following the Revolution and Napoleon’s campaigns, the collection – originally a monastic library dating from the ninth century – had long outgrown the former abbey building in which it was housed. Labrouste created a cathedral of learning influenced by the architecture of Rome and Florence, resulting in an eye-catching blend of industrial guts and neo-Gothic grandeur, every bit as impressive as the architect’s other Parisian masterwork, the National Library. Visit on Wednesdays and Saturdays at 4pm for ‘Discovery’ tours (in French; booking required).

7. Strahov Monastery Library, Prague, Czechia

Strahov Monastery Library (Alamy)

Even in Prague, a city blessed with many beautiful buildings, few sights rival that of the Strahov Monastery, home to the largest monastic libary in Czechia. Sadly, today you can steal only a glimpse of its Baroque reading halls through their doors: access is restricted to maintain the atmospheric conditions needed to preserve their delicate frescoes. But you can get a feel for life in the monastery, seeing the old scribing desks at which the monks used to fastidiously copy manuscripts, and the rotating wheels on which texts were compiled. The 18th-century Philosophical Hall has the grander artwork, but pay special attention to the cartouches – part of an early cataloguing system – above the shelves in the older Theological Hall, built in the 1670s. Tickets can be bought on the door.

8. Abbey Library of St Gall, St Gallen, Switzerland

Abbey Library of St Gall (Alamy)

The finely polished walnut and cherry-wood bookcases of the 18th-century library in St Gall Abbey have a hint of a gentlemen’s club about them. But gaze towards the ceiling and the building’s Baroque soul starts to sing. Within crackling, swirling stucco frames beneath its domes spread frescoes as dramatic as any in Europe. The book collection – the largest in Switzerland – is no less impressive. Only a fraction of its 170,000 volumes are on display, with treasures including manuscripts dating back to the mid-eighth century when this was a hub for monks practising their art in the scriptorium. Among the curiosities is a 2,700-year-old Egyptian mummy brought to St Gallen in the 19th century. Daily guided tours visit the library; changing exhibitions are hosted in the vaulted cellar.

9. Royal Portuguese Reading Room, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Royal Portuguese Reading Room (Alamy)

A literal translation of the name of this grandiose library is the Royal Portuguese Cabinet of Reading, which better evokes its astonishing appearance. A sense of nostalgia for the old country pervades the building, its facade reputedly inspired by Lisbon’s Jerónimos Monastery. That’s perhaps unsurprising: it was created in 1837, at the dawn of Brazil’s independence, by Portuguese immigrants wanting to preserve memories of home. What they built was spectacular: three storeys of dark-wood shelves soar up towards a stained-glass dome, flanked by dusky blue walls edged with gold detail. The library’s collection of Portuguese texts – the largest outside the home country – approaches 400,000 items including manuscripts, folios and books. It’s amazing what a little homesickness can elicit.

10. Royal Library of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Spain

Royal Library of San Lorenzo de El Escorial (Alamy)

The Spanish have an expression, ‘La obra de El Escorial’ (The work of El Escorial), for something that takes a long time to finish. No wonder: the palace, monastery, tomb, basilica and university complex at El Escorial, commissioned by King Phillip II in 1563, took 21 years to complete, eventually comprising the world’s largest Renaissance building. Tours explore treasures including a fine collection of Spanish Masters. But it’s the palace library, completed in 1584, that really catches the eye. It’s packed with globes, armillary spheres, thousands of handwritten manuscripts and some 40,000 books. The walls are decorated with magnificent frescoes and other works designed to inspire appreciation of the arts; however, after just a few minutes here, you’ll need little prompting.

11. Seattle Central Library, Washington, USA

Seattle Central Library (Alamy)

In approaching the design of Seattle’s Central Library, co-architect Rem Koolhaas examined how such places had changed by the turn of the 21st century. No longer were they dusty repositories lined with shelves, now hosting lectures and classes, serving communities seeking not just books but all forms of information. The resulting building – resembling a tilting pile of glassy books – reflects this idea. Audio and self-guided tours explore its design, including the central Books Spiral, its shelves twisting up through the floors via ramps. The show-stopper is the lobby ‘living room’, in which angled walls of cross-hatched windows seem to lean on readers below. The library welcomes more than 2 million visitors a year – about the same as Mount Rushmore – suggesting Koolhaas was onto something.

12. Rampur Raza Library, Uttar Pradesh, India

Rampur Raza Library (Shutterstock)

Eight turmeric- and saffron-coloured minarets flank the Hamid Manzil, a dazzling palace built in the early 20th century within Rampur Fort, about 180km east of Delhi. The library’s 250-year-old book collection was seeded long before the building was dreamed up, amassed by a succession of scholarly nawabs (state rulers) from the late 18th century. It survived pillaging during the British Raj, when many of India’s treasures were looted or scattered to the breeze, and was moved to its current location in the palace as recently as 1957. Visitors can admire some of its 17,000 prized Indo-Islamic manuscripts, 60,000 printed books, paintings and diverse artefacts, together comprising a resource unlike any other found in India or elsewhere.

13. Bishan Public Library, Singapore

Bishan Public Library (Alamy)

What better inspiration for a public library in Singapore, the ‘Garden City’, than a treehouse? This was the design spark behind Bishan Public Library, from which cantilevered protrusions of coloured glass jut like Cubist branches. Visitors to these pods –quiet spaces for reading or working – dangle above the street, much as a child might clamber up through a tree canopy to find a bit of peace. The design metaphor even extends to the natural light that filters through the atrium and into each of the rooms, like dappled sunshine leaching through boughs down to the forest floor. In a city of remarkable green spaces, this deconstructed treehouse is still a unique treat – surrounded by urban bustle, yet also an oasis of calm completely removed from it.

14. George Peabody Library, Baltimore, USA

George Peabody Library (Alamy)

Size can be hard to gauge from a picture alone. It’s only when standing on the monochrome marble floor of its soaring atrium that you understand the scale of the George Peabody Library, established in 1866. Greco-Roman-revival columns soar to the skies, detailed in gold leaf. Throw back your head to admire five tiers of cast-iron balconies glinting in the light; peer even higher to spy the pièce de résistance – the atrium’s 18m-high skylight that runs the length of the interior, bathing it in a buttery glow. The size is overwhelming, befitting the largesse of one of America’s earliest philanthropists, George Peabody, who ploughed his banking wealth into the arts. The library’s collection of some 300,000 volumes contains 18th- and 19th-century treasures such as first editions of works by Poe, Hawthorne and Melville, yet remains free to explore, as its founder wished.

15. Wiblingen Abbey Library, Ulm, Germany

Wiblingen Abbey Library (Alamy)

Germany isn’t short on fairy tales, yet even the Brothers Grimm would struggle to dream up the library in Wiblingen Abbey. Its Rococo exuberance is like something from the imagination of ‘Mad’ King Ludwig – and that was rather the point. In 1740, the abbot wanted a building that would inspire his monks. The resulting 23m-long hall of frescoes, painted statues and rose-pink and blue highlights certainly sets the eyes dancing – you could almost be in a royal palace. Plans to rebuild the entire abbey, by then very wealthy, in grand Baroque style ebbed away during the 18th century, and such ambitions were finally sacrificed to the Napoleonic Wars, along with much of its 15,000-strong book collection. Today, the library provides a glimpse of how that re-imagined abbey might have looked.

16. The Black Diamond, Copenhagen, Denmark

The Black Diamond (Alamy)

The largest library collection in Scandinavia is split between two buildings in Copenhagen that could scarcely be less alike. One is red-brick and stolidly early 20th century, the other seemingly dropped from outer space onto the waterfront in 1999. This latter extension to the Royal Danish Library, clad in 2,500 sqm of obsidian-black polished granite, is known semi-officially as The Black Diamond. Its interior is no less striking: visitors slide between the two buildings on a long escalator and, entering the lending section, pass beneath a 210 sqm ceiling fresco resembling a cross-section of fossil-studded rock. In the basement you’ll also find the excellent National Museum of Photography, its collection including Danish and other images captured since 1839.

17. Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library, Toronto, Canada

Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library (Alamy)

Though its Brutalist concrete exterior isn’t to everyone’s taste, the interior of the building that houses the rare and special collection of Toronto University is all ‘wow’. A wall of bookcases sky-rockets to the liquorice-black-and-red ceiling, showcasing an 800,000-strong collection. With a wide selection of texts on philosophy, theology and the history of science and medicine, its highlights include a 1623 Shakespeare First Folio and some astonishing glimpses of antiquity. As well as hundreds of early manuscripts, the oldest piece of writing here takes the form of a Sumerian cuneiform tablet from Ur, created around 1789 BC. Visitors can request to see any item, though regular exhibitions offer an easier way to explore this dense and incredible resource.

18. Trinity College Library, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

Trinity College Library (Alamy)

Serving the university founded in 1592, Ireland’s largest library has strong Hogwarts vibes. At its centre stands the Long Room, an early 18th-century hall replete with chocolate-dark wood, vaulted ceilings and blank-eyed marble busts of history’s sternest thinkers. It also houses some of Ireland’s finest treasures, including the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript from the turn of the ninth century that survived Viking raids, theft and the unwelcome attentions of Oliver Cromwell. Other gems include the medieval ‘Brian Boru’ harp, oldest of its kind in Ireland. Though not the legendary instrument traded by that Irish king’s son to the pope in exchange for absolution for his brother’s murder, it was the model for the Guinness logo.

19. National Palace of Mafra Library, Portugal

National Palace of Mafra Library (Alamy)

This Rococo library is the pride of Mafra Palace, an overwrought jewel polished with ill-gotten wealth prised from Brazil by the ‘Portuguese Sun King’ Dom João V. When it was commissioned in the mid-18th century, however, one imagines that ‘bat-infested’ wasn’t a phrase included in the specs. No one knows how long a colony of flitting mammals has roosted in the library’s 84m-long barrel-vaulted interior, but eviction hasn’t been a priority. In fact, the bats feed on bookworms and moths that pose a bigger threat to the library’s 30,000 or so leather-bound volumes, some filled with hand-stitched manuscripts dating back to the 14th century. At night, sheets are laid out to protect the interior from guano; in the morning, the marble floor is polished anew in time for palace tours, while its guardians slumber unseen.

20. State Library of South Australia, Adelaide, Australia

State Library of South Australia (Alamy)

Curiously, the story of this library perhaps pre-dates even the founding of South Australia. Before leaving England for the long voyage south in 1836, a group of settlers gathered the makings of a subscription library, which survived the journey to Australia – only to tumble into a river upon arrival. Having been rescued, dried out and given a home on the city’s North Terrace, it shared this location with the state’s museum and art collections until these were decanted into neighbouring buildings. The library expanded, too, but its highpoint remains the 1884 Mortlock Wing (pictured), built in French Renaissance style with an interior reflecting the Victorian passion for iron and dark wood. Tours, exhibitions and lectures are staged in this jewel of the state.

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The ultimate wildlife guide to Australia https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/the-ultimate-wildlife-guide-to-australia/ Wed, 29 May 2024 08:20:46 +0000 https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=74400 Where to see iconic and lesser-known species in this biodiverse country

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Where to see iconic and lesser-known species in this biodiverse country

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The ultimate wildlife guide to Australia

Where to see iconic and lesser-known species in this biodiverse country

Australia is one of the planet’s top wildlife destinations. Its vast scale results in a wide variety of species and habitats across its rainforests, deserts, wetlands and mountains. Separated from the other continents for more than 30 million years, much of the wildlife you’ll find here is endemic, adding to its appeal.  

The Aussie classics

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Tourism Australia

The species

Australia is most famous for its marsupials, the largest of which are kangaroos. With few natural predators, they outnumber people in Australia. Tasmanian devils are carnivorous marsupials, known for baring their teeth and growling when they feel threatened. Koalas couldn’t be more different. These sleepy arboreal marsupials consume up to a kilo of eucalyptus leaves every day; this diet explains why they have so little energy. Wombats are the koala’s closest relative; stout diggers, they’re the largest burrowing mammals on the planet.

Where to spot them

Kangaroos aren’t fussy where they hop: golf courses, vineyards and beaches are all fair game. For reliable sightings in the wild, try Namadgi National Park near Canberra, Sydney’s Pebble Beach or the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges in Victoria. For a close-up koala encounter, visit a wildlife rescue like Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary near Brisbane or spy them hiding among the rugged national parks of South Australia’s Fleurieu Peninsula. Tasmania’s Maria Island has sizeable populations of wombats, Forester kangaroos and Tasmanian devils. Although, you’ll improve your chances of an encounter with the latter if you visit sanctuaries such as Bonorong or Devils@Cradle.

Top Audley tip

“Book an immersive tour at Devils@Cradle. Situated on the fringe of Cradle Mountain National Park, this conservation project is working hard to eradicate the contagious devil facial tumour disease that threatens this species. You can see the good work they do for yourself with a guided tour, seeing its breeding reserve and meeting a Tasmanian devil up close.”

Lesser-known favourites

The species

Lesser-known species include quolls – feisty, furry marsupials that are often tree-climbing den dwellers. The tammar wallaby is similarly tricky to find. Nocturnal, these small wallabies hang out in groups to reduce the chance of being picked off by predators like dingoes and foxes. Quenda, also known as western brown bandicoots, are about the size of a small rabbit. They’re sometimes mistaken for rats, though they’re tubbier with shorter tails and brown fur. Meanwhile, water dragons are Australia’s largest dragon lizard.

Where to spot them

For spotted tail quolls try Tasmania, specifically Cradle Mountain National Park and the Arthur River area; eastern quolls inhabit Mount Field National Park. The tammar wallaby is native to South and Western Australia. Declining numbers make it hard to spot on the mainland, but you’ll find some on Kangaroo Island. Quenda are rarely seen outside parts of Western Australia. Usually, they’re found sniffing around in parks and gardens within urban and suburban areas. Another city-dweller is the water dragon. It’s active near healthy waterways in the Sydney area from September to June, retreating to burrows during the cooler winter months.

Top Audley tip

“Tammar wallabies emerge to graze at dusk in grassy areas. While it’s tempting to park up by the roadside to watch, be careful not to spook these timid creatures near traffic.”

Creatures of the Outback

The species

The term bush encompasses many habitats. Echidnas snuffle about in most of them, though they especially like hollow logs and holes among tree roots. These short-beaked creatures are monotremes, like platypuses, meaning they are mammals that lay eggs. Sugar gliders too prefer woodlands. These extraordinary possums, despite only being about as big as the palm of your hand, can fly up to 50 metres. Cockatoos also like to make their presence felt, conspicuous wherever there are trees.

Where to spot them

Echidnas are typically shy creatures. Nevertheless, follow Dove Lake’s boardwalk beneath Cradle Mountain in Tasmania and there’s a good chance you’ll encounter one. Find them in East Gippsland as well, sniffing out ants and termites from rotten tree stumps. You might also see sugar gliders here; they’re partial to the black wattles and eucalypts found in this part of Victoria. See these agile and graceful creatures in the Daintree Rainforest too, particularly close to sunset. Meanwhile, over in New South Wales, crackles of sulphur-crested cockatoos are frequently seen – and heard – in Sydney as you stroll through the city’s Royal Botanic Gardens.

Top Audley tip

“Don’t travel to Sydney’s Cockatoo Island, formerly a prison, in the hope of seeing these noisy birds – there aren’t any, despite its misleading name.”

Marine marvels

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Kirsty Faulkner

Credit: Kirsty Faulkner

Credit: Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort

Credit: Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort

The species

Australia’s waters teem with marine life, such as orcas and southern right whales, as well as whale sharks. This gentle giant, with its distinctive white markings, is a voracious filter feeder that feasts on krill. Playful, intelligent dolphins venture into inlets and coastal bays; snubfin, Burranan bottlenose and Australian humpbacks are endemic. In tropical waters, colourful reef fish abound; meanwhile duck-billed platypuses, elegant in the water but awkward on land, prefer freshwater creeks and lakes. 

Where to spot them

Travel to Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef between March and August to swim with whale sharks. The state is also a good bet for whale watching; humpbacks, southern rights and orcas are the focus of boat trips out of Bremer Bay, Augusta and Fremantle. Port Stephens in New South Wales bills itself as Australia’s dolphin capital. A pod of 120 bottlenose dolphins chases boats here year-round. Across the state, ripples in Blue Lake at Jenolan Caves indicate platypuses are present, particularly early or late in the day. Further north, snorkel in the company of clownfish in the Great Barrier Reef and the Whitsundays; they love Queensland’s warm shallows.

Top Audley tip

“The best time to visit the Great Barrier Reef is during the winter dry season, from May to October. Visibility is better, manta rays are present and you’ll dodge stinger season.”

Aussie aviators

The species

About 850 bird species live in Australia and unlike the commonly-sighted pelican, a little under half aren’t found anywhere else in the world. Among the most distinctive is the cassowary, Australia’s heaviest bird, with its statement blue head and neck, red wattle and inky-black plumage. Thanks to their spectacular tail feathers, ground-dwelling lyrebirds look a little like a brown pheasant. Orange-bellied parrots are mostly yellowy green, with a trademark splash of colour to warrant the name.

Where to spot them

Head to the Daintree Rainforest if you hope to find a cassowary, a flightless bird native to north eastern Australia. Consider yourself lucky if you succeed: they’re elusive loners, though if you hear a rumble or grunt one may be nearby. Listen out for the call of lyrebirds in the Blue Mountains in New South Wales or the Yarra Valley, the Dandenong Ranges and South Gippsland over the state line in Victoria. Orange-bellied parrots breed in the forests of western Tasmania but spend the winter over on the mainland. Meanwhile pelicans frequent most coastal towns especially if there’s fish around.

Top Audley tip

“Increase your chance of spotting a cassowary by searching for its favourite food, the blue-hued cassowary plum. If you notice fresh seed-riddled droppings nearby, chances are the bird’s here too.”

Wildlife of the isles

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Tourism Australia

The species

Australia’s islands are home to some remarkable wildlife species. Long-nosed fur seals weigh up to 250kg; you’ll recognise a male from its blonde mane. Australian sea lions are fewer in number yet equally entertaining to watch. During breeding season, bulls battle over territory; play-fighting youngsters mimic their elders. Quokkas are smiley, furry and exceptionally cute marsupials, perennially popular with visitors. Little penguins are the smallest type in the world. These nocturnal birds forage in groups knowing there’s safety in numbers.

Where to spot them

You’ll spot plenty of long-nosed fur seals at Flinders Chase National Park on Kangaroo Island, where they play in the water and haul out on the rocks at Admirals Arch. The same island is also home to the third largest breeding colony of Australian sea lions; catch them at Seal Bay. Over in Western Australia, time your visit to Rottnest Island for the daily guided Quokka Walk. They’re the island’s only land mammal; largely free from predators, they thrive here. Watching the little penguins come ashore at Philip Island is a must for visitors to Victoria; it’s a two-hour drive from Melbourne.

Top Audley tip

“Arrive at Philip Island in good time for a front-row spot at the Penguin Parade. If you’re further back, get a close-up look from the boardwalk as they waddle back to their burrows.”

The big guys

Credit: Tourism Australia

Credit: Tourism Australia

The species

Though there are a million of them, the camel isn’t an Australia native; they were imported from Arabia, India and Afghanistan in the 19th century. Dingoes have been around for longer; this wild dog was most likely introduced about 4,000 years ago by seafaring Asians. So what’s indigenous? The emu, for starters – the country’s biggest bird, which incidentally is so heavy it can’t fly. Saltwater crocodiles are another mighty specimen, the world’s largest living reptile.

Where to spot them

Camels can be seen in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, as well as the wider area, as they inhabit about 40% of the Northern Territory. Give yourself the best chance of seeing pure-bred dingoes on K’gari (Fraser Island) in Queensland. Upwards of 25 packs inhabit this protected national park. For emus, travel anywhere except Tasmania – try South Australia’s Gawler Ranges or salt shallows of Coorong National Park. Finally, Kakadu National Park is home to resident populations of both freshwater and saltwater crocodiles. Boat tours of Yellow Water Billabong depart year-round while the boardwalk is accessible from July to November.

Top Audley tip

“Never assume you’re looking at a freshwater crocodile, even in swamps and billabongs. Salties are aggressive and will bite hard. And don’t think they’re not watching you: they sleep unihemispherically with one eye open and half of their brain alert.”

The little ones

The species

They say good things come in small packages, and when it comes to wildlife, that adage definitely holds true on land and in the water. Multiple species of bandicoots reside here; they look a little like rats. The long-nosed variety is the most common. Pademelons are a small macropod resembling a wallaby, greyish in colour with a fat backside. Curious-looking weedy sea dragons are related to the seahorse, though don’t have a pouch for carrying their young.

Where to spot them

Queensland is a good place to spot bandicoots. For long-nosed and northern brown varieties try the Fan Palm and Yourka reserves, managed by non-profit Bush Heritage Australia. Shy, solitary rufous-bellied pademelons are native to Australia’s southernmost state. Plan to spend some time at Narawntapu National Park on Tasmania’s north coast, where you might get a glimpse near to its Springlawn visitor centre alongside Forester kangaroos and Bennett’s wallabies. Weedy sea dragons work hard at camouflaging themselves on the kelp-strewn rocky reefs that surround the Australian shore. Nevertheless, look out for them in temperate coastal waters anywhere from New South Wales to Western Australia.

Top Audley tip

“Long-nosed bandicoots leave telltale holes known as “snout pokes” where they’ve been foraging. If you spot some unusual indentations in lawns, farmland or meadows, it’s worth taking a closer look.”

About the experts

Tap into Audley’s know-how to incorporate memorable wildlife encounters into your Australia itinerary. Whether it’s arranging visits to national parks or pitstops at animal sanctuaries, Audley’s experts can help you maximise your chances of seeing the creatures that matter by making sure you’re in the right place at the right time.  

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Solving the mysteries of Mesa Verde, the USA’s largest archaeological site https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/solving-the-mysteries-of-mesa-verde-the-usa/ Sat, 25 May 2024 10:28:11 +0000 https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=74335 In south-west Colorado lies the largest archaeological preserve in the USA, a series of vast cliff dwellings whose residents ‘vanished’ overnight. But was the answer to their disappearance in plain sight?

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In south-west Colorado lies the largest archaeological preserve in the USA, a series of vast cliff dwellings whose residents ‘vanished’ overnight. But was the answer to their disappearance in plain sight?

View the story

Solving the mysteries of Mesa Verde, the USA’s largest archaeological site

In south-west Colorado lies the largest archaeological preserve in the USA, a series of vast cliff dwellings whose residents ‘vanished’ overnight. But was the answer to their disappearance in plain sight?

Words & Photographs George Kipouros

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The hairspine cactus (or plains pricklypear) is indigenous to the Mesa Verde plains and North America in general, and was often used by Native Americans as a medicinal plant

The hairspine cactus (or plains pricklypear) is indigenous to the Mesa Verde plains and North America in general, and was often used by Native Americans as a medicinal plant

Alex Prime, interpretive tour guide at Aramark Mesa Verde, points to a kiva in Coyote Village

Alex Prime, interpretive tour guide at Aramark Mesa Verde, points to a kiva in Coyote Village

You’ll find friendly lizard in Mesa Verde National Park

You’ll find friendly lizard in Mesa Verde National Park

“This is North America’s Machu Picchu, except it is far less well known around the world,” beamed Liz, our hotel concierge in Durango, Colorado, as she described how to find the scenic route that leads to Mesa Verde National Park. The ruins we were headed to are in fact centuries older than the more famous Inca citadel, but we would soon discover that the two locations share a similarly extraordinary setting, as well as an air of mystique around their creation stories.

Mesa Verde means ‘Green Table’ in Spanish, defined by a people who were pioneers in misnaming geographical phenomena. The site is actually a cuesta (a ridge with a slight incline), only this one is made up of many smaller flat-topped hills (mesas) that are scattered between the canyons. In reality, it is even more impressive than its name suggests.

Yet we were not here just for the magnificence of Mother Nature. In 1906, Mesa Verde became the first US national park that was protected not only for its natural beauty, but for its cultural significance. Normally, such sites are given ‘national monument’ status, but the landscapes unfolding before us were certainly worthy of their designation. For visitors, it’s like suddenly stumbling across a lost city inside the Grand Canyon.

After driving uphill for over 45 minutes, we were greeted at the park’s entrance by Eric Sainio, Mesa Verde’s supervisory ranger. Eric was eager to woo us with Mesa Verde’s pièce de résistance, the ‘Cliff Palace’, otherwise known as the most expansive site of ancient cliff dwellings in North America.

“It will be a great introduction to this place, its people and its history,” assured Eric as we walked from the car park towards the edge of a mesa. The short hike between the car and the site included rock staircases and treacherous cliffside pathways, and it proved a fascinating, if vertigo-inducing, journey, leaving me breathless, not least due to the elevation of over 2,000m.

Mesa Verde’s rock staircases and treacherous cliffside pathways make it essential you always travel with a guide

Mesa Verde’s rock staircases and treacherous cliffside pathways make it essential you always travel with a guide

These perilous pathways are one of the reasons why visitors must be accompanied by a park ranger when visiting a cliff-dwelling site, and booking well in advance is essential for popular spots like the Cliff Palace. Approaching it was like walking through Petra’s Al Siq Canyon and catching your first view of the Treasury. The final reveal at the end of the path was truly magical, and in timing our visit for the start of the golden hour, it meant that the whole place was bathed in a beautiful light, the ruins shining in hues of orange, red and yellow.
In front of us lay North America’s largest cliff dwelling, sheltered in an alcove on the side of the mesa and opening out onto spectacular views of the canyon below.

“The majority of this site dates from the 11th and 12th centuries,” explained Eric as he guided us among the impressively restored multi-storey edifices. “We know with certainty that this was not a palace, but early European visitors could only attribute such architectural magnificence to a palatial residence.”

Out of some 600 cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde NP, 75% have no more than five rooms, yet the gigantic Cliff Palace contains 150

Out of some 600 cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde NP, 75% have no more than five rooms, yet the gigantic Cliff Palace contains 150

Modern archaeological research shows that this dwelling site was an important centre for the ancient community that lived here, known as the Ancestral Pueblo people. Its 150 rooms are spread across multi-storey edifices, including 21 kivas, circular rooms that are usually underground and covered by a roof of timber and soil. These rooms are common throughout the park and the broader region.

“The kivas had both ceremonial and spiritual significance, and were at the heart of both family and community,” explained Eric. Indeed, the conditions for life here were, despite the inaccessibility of the location, very good. “We knew that the people were thriving because they had corn supplies stored for up to three years,” he continued.

A spiral petroglyph at Pipe Shrine House

A spiral petroglyph at Pipe Shrine House

Dabbing the sweat from my brow, I asked why they would build their homes in such a precarious location. Eric’s answer put another spin on the notion entirely: “This was a sheltered and protected setting, rather than precarious,” he countered, going on to explain how the local people made the most of the unique geographical characteristics. For example, the Cliff’s Palace’s southern positioning meant a longer growing season with more days of sunshine, while the buildings were well protected from seasonal rains.

“There’s a lot of soil that you get to capture. You can also capture more of the monsoonal rainwater,” added Eric as he demonstrated the well-sheltered storage areas.

Mesa Verde’s generally arid climate supports a rich ecosystem of more than 1,000 species of flora and fauna. In our first few hours in the park, we had seen wild turkeys, vultures, a hawk, ravens and glimpsed a nesting pair of golden eagles. I was particularly impressed by the local yellow-headed collard lizard, whose bold colours and unexpectedly friendly nature proved endlessly entertaining.

Ancient corn and Ancestral Pueblo pottery from the 10th century AD

Ancient corn and Ancestral Pueblo pottery from the 10th century AD

As we concluded our visit to the palace, Eric rattled off a few more statistics, explaining that there are over 5,000 archaeological sites in Mesa Verde. Gearing up for a long day ahead, I gently fanned my forehead at the thought of it, only for him to add that just 600 of them are cliff sites, and only three of those are currently open to the public.

The park’s spectacular cliff dwellings were in fact the very last ones to have been built here, I learned. “The earliest ruins are at the top of the mesa, where most of the community lived for many centuries before descending the cliff,” Eric explained as we ended our visit by heading back topside.

Intrigued, I resolved to find out more, so the following day I joined guide Alex Prime for a cyclical drive around the earlier ‘Far View’ sites. These lie at the top of the mesa, and Alex began our visit by telling me how the earliest settlements of Mesa Verde are sometimes bypassed by visitors, who tend to head to the more spectacular cliffside sites. Yet, despite the less dramatic setting, there is plenty here to help understand the story of the people that made this vast cuesta home.

Gazing across the mesa to the Cliff Palace, whose ‘rediscovery’ in the late 1800s meant centuries of deterioration caused by dripping water, wildlife and the elements could be halted

Gazing across the mesa to the Cliff Palace, whose ‘rediscovery’ in the late 1800s meant centuries of deterioration caused by dripping water, wildlife and the elements could be halted

Excavated in the 1970s and is in a great state of preservation, even though it dates from around 900 AD. Among the five kivas found here, one giant specimen stood out. Alex explained that it may have belonged to a large clan, as each kiva would represent a different group, or family lineage.

“These were matrilineal societies, and the women had a key role to play in the community,” she elaborated.

From the viewpoint on the Mesa Top Loop, near Coyote Village, it was easier to appreciate the grandeur of the landscape. Below us lay the spectacular Navajo Canyon, which resembled a greener version of the Grand Canyon crossed with Australia’s Blue Mountains. Scattered on the cliffsides of the mesas, we spotted myriad alcoves hiding dwellings of varying sizes. Sites including the Cliff Palace, Long House and Balcony House came into focus. From this perspective they looked almost impossible to reach, let alone build, perhaps giving one more hint as to why the people here slowly drifted down the cliffsides.

Eric leads the way on the hike to the Cliff Palace

Eric leads the way on the hike to the Cliff Palace

“The defensive element must have been a key one,” exclaimed Alex, while clarifying that there is no actual agreement within the scientific community as to the reason why the communities moved from the top of the mesa to the canyon alcoves below. Indeed, there is so much about this site that is shrouded in mystery, not least why the people here chose to leave towards the end of the 13th century, when the Cliff Palace was abandoned. I asked Alex if war was the reason that they disappeared, eager to understand more about how this majestic civilisation ended.

“Perhaps social upheaval had a role to play in this, but there were certainly many other factors. While the archaeological community has yet to come up with definite answers, the change in the climatic conditions, including an extensive drought affecting crops, may well have also contributed to the communities moving on. But you need to understand that the ‘vanishing people’ of Mesa Verde is the biggest myth of them all,” she concluded mysteriously.

Eager to shed some more light on this, later that day I met up with Cecilia Shields, director of Mesa Verde and the only Native American head of a national park in the US. The first question on my mind was what really happened to Mesa Verde’s ancient people, and where did they go?

“The evidence is not fully conclusive, but we can make an informed guess,” said Cecilia. “Through dendrochronology we know that in the 1200s there was a massive drought in the area that put pressure on the people living here. And because everyone here is ultimately a farmer, they must be able to grow enough food to feed their family for an entire year.”

Diminishing resources coupled with social upheaval are, for many scientists, the main reasons that led to the complete depopulation of the once-bustling Mesa Verde region. But just as Cecilia finished explaining, I once more stumbled into the trap of concluding that the people of Mesa Verde had “vanished”.

“We are fighting more than a century’s worth of ‘mystery’,” countered Cecilia with a sigh of mock-exasperation. “It is a 
disappearance that never was, as we know exactly where Mesa Verde’s people went and where their descendants still are.”
As she walked me to the on-site museum, Cecilia showed me a map of the area and explained that there are several communities that are tied to the Ancestral Pueblo people, who are named after the settlements in which they lived.

“There are 21 pueblos in New Mexico, Arizona and Texas that trace their ancestry back to the people here,” she told me. Several of these are listed as some of the oldest continually inhabited towns in the US, dating back nearly 1,000 years. Cecilia is even a member of a pueblo community herself, having grown up in Picuris, New Mexico – one of the communities descended from Mesa Verde – and I was eager to hear more about her connections to the site beyond her role as park director.

Mesa Verde park director Cecilia Shields stands in front of the now off-limits Spruce House

Mesa Verde park director Cecilia Shields stands in front of the now off-limits Spruce House

“Our people remember to remember. We know where we came from and can retrace our steps. People still come here for pilgrimages and religious practices, and many of the traditions found here continue in our communities. Knowledge of this place was never lost and never forgotten,” she affirmed proudly.

We walked towards a viewing point that overlooked Spruce House. This was previously one of the most accessible cliff-dwelling sites, but it has been closed to the public since 2015 after major cracks were discovered in its alcove.

“Some descending tribes would want Spruce House to be allowed to collapse altogether, along with its alcove,” explained Cecilia. “There is the idea that all material goods should be allowed to return to nature once their cycle is complete. They should be allowed to finish their circle… But the counter-argument to this is that these are unique places where our people can appreciate how our ancestors lived, so there is a strong educational element too.”

Cecilia drew my attention to Spruce House’s kivas to prove her point. “Our modern-day kivas in the pueblo communities have exactly the same function as they did back then,” she continued, adding that the structures are still built underground to almost the exact same design. “Going on the idea of migration, we believe that the kiva itself represents the origin story of starting from below and coming up into this world. It’s a circular story; the circle of life. I am not protecting this site just for my children, but for the many future generations to come. Our people were here, and we will always be here, alongside our culture, traditions, dances, songs and languages,” she concluded as we drove towards the park exit.

The monolith at the entrance to Ute Mountain Tribal Park is known locally as Chimney Rock (1,662m) because of its shape

The monolith at the entrance to Ute Mountain Tribal Park is known locally as Chimney Rock (1,662m) because of its shape

My next stop was beyond the park’s remit yet still connected to the Mesa Verde people and culture. We were headed to the nearby Native American reservation of the Southern Ute, who are not a community descended from the Ancestral Pueblo people, but do manage a vast area of land that once included all of Mesa Verde until the creation of the park.

While just a half-hour drive away, the landscape here is surprisingly different to Mesa Verde. This is closer to the otherworldly expanses of the American West – real Wile E Coyote and Road Runner territory.

Here we met Beverly Yazzie, an experienced Southern Ute guide who would be taking us on a day visit across the Ute Mountain Tribal Park. The only way to visit this area is through a guided tour, and it is home to a significant number of Ancestral Pueblo ruins.

We started the drive up to Makers Canyon with Beverly narrating her life story and that of the park itself. The Ute are a nomadic people who roamed all the way up to Utah, Idaho and Wyoming.

“We lived in the mountains as well as in the flats. We were hunters and gathers but never farmers,” said Beverly as she highlighted some of the differences between the Southern Ute and Ancestral Pueblo people. “We believe our people coexisted here with them for a time, and now we are back here again… Mesa Verde was Ute Territory, and the US government took it away from us. But at least they didn’t build it up!”

It was back in the early 1970s that the Southern Ute community started running tours of the area, offering an alternative to those of Mesa Verde NP and providing a source of revenue for the community.

My experience was certainly very different to my time in the park. We started with a visit to what Beverly described as “the biggest kiva in the area”, known as The Great Kiva. Indeed, it was larger than anything I had seen in Mesa Verde, yet its roof was still fully covered. “The tribe does not want anything excavated,” she reminded me.

Beverly Yazzie points up to one of the petroglyphs left behind by the Ancestral Pueblo people in Ute Mountain Tribal Park

Beverly Yazzie points up to one of the petroglyphs left behind by the Ancestral Pueblo people in Ute Mountain Tribal Park

Beverly then pointed to the ground, urging me to look harder. “You will see a lot more if you look carefully,” she advised as we stepped on thousands of decorated fragments belonging to Ancestral Pueblo pottery. Some of the pieces were large and ornate enough to be displayed in a museum, but that is not how the Southern Ute want them to be seen.

“We don’t put the pieces in a museum because this is where they belong, within nature, within their home,” said Beverly.
We visited multiple petroglyph sites, many dating back to the 8th century AD. They were in a remarkably good state of preservation. “The arid climate helps,” said Beverly as she continued to recover beautiful pieces of pottery, promptly showing them to me before returning them just as swiftly to the ground.

This was unlike any other ancient site I’ve experienced in my life; it had been fully discovered by humans but barely touched. The highlight was also yet to come, as we ventured 45 minutes off road, driving along an unpaved and barely visible path that splashed across parts of the San Marcos River.

There was no reception, and no map either. Instead, we simply relied on Beverly, whose unique way of orienteering involved using the landscape. While I was convinced that we were lost, I was happily proved wrong when we finally arrived at the isolated Porcupine House, deep in an alcove canyon off a cliff. This site is so well concealed that you could be standing metres from it and still miss the opening.

The ‘Ute Lady and Sun’ pictograph in Ute Mountain Tribal Park

The ‘Ute Lady and Sun’ pictograph in Ute Mountain Tribal Park

The wild vegetation here has not been removed, and nor has the site been restored. Nonetheless, it looked to be in an excellent state of preservation. This was as impressive as any of the sites in Mesa Verde, and yet it was completely devoid of visitors.

A giant, perilous-looking ladder marked the beginning of a path that took us to the cliff dwelling from the top of the mesa.

“They wanted to make their homes hidden from view and inaccessible so that they would be safe,” Beverly told me. I replied that this had not really been highlighted in the National Park Service narrative. “Well, we all have different takes when it comes to history, don’t we?” she smiled, seemingly amused.
“You see, we always knew about this place. My grandmother and her ancestors knew of it, and my children and grandchildren will know of it. The spirits of our ancestors still live here. Its story, just like its people, will never really vanish,” said Beverly after we emerged from the dwelling and started our drive back to the park entrance. With her words ringing in my ears, I finally realised there was no mystery here, just the continuation of a long tale; one that I too would now never forget.

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Square Tower House nestles within its alcove

Square Tower House nestles within its alcove

You can still glimpse wild horses roaming the lands of the Southern Ute

You can still glimpse wild horses roaming the lands of the Southern Ute

Mesa Verde NP’s Navajo Canyon View lets you scan the arid landscape from an altitude of 2,130m

Mesa Verde NP’s Navajo Canyon View lets you scan the arid landscape from an altitude of 2,130m

About the trip

Getting there: Both British Airways and United Airlines operate non-stop flights from London Heathrow to Denver, Colorado. These take from around 9 hours and 40 minutes. From there it’s a scenic six-hour drive to Durango, and another hour to Cortez – the two nearest towns to Mesa Verde NP. Durango has a regional airport that receives internal flights from Denver and other US cities.

Booking: Make sure you book your guided tours to the cliffside dwellings of Mesa Verde NP well in advance on the park website. Aramark offers good tours of the park that are sometimes easier to book. You can also reserve a tour of the Ute Mountain Tribal Park online.

Where to stay: There is only one hotel inside Mesa Verde NP, the rather basic and dated Far View Lodge. It is also the only restaurant/food concession available in the park, so stock up. We recommend you base yourself in nearby Durango, which has a walkable historic core and the excellent Strater Hotel, or provincial Cortez, which has many solid options, including a characterful Holiday Inn.

When to go: The park is open year-round, although snow can make some sites inaccessible in the winter. The crowds are busiest between mid-June and early September; the best months to visit are May and October.

More information: For more information, visit colorado.com and nps.gov/meve.

The author travelled with support from the Colorado Tourism Office and the US National Park Service.

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The other Emerald Isle: Why Tobago is the Caribbean’s untouched paradise https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/tobago-the-other-emerald-isle/ Wed, 15 May 2024 10:59:46 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=73236 While much of the Caribbean has been lost to development, tiny Tobago remains stubbornly resistant to change, thanks to a history of rainforest conservation dating back to the 18th century

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While much of the Caribbean has been lost to development, tiny Tobago remains stubbornly resistant to change, thanks to a history of rainforest conservation dating back to the 18th century

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The other Emerald Isle

Why Tobago remains the Caribbean’s untouched paradise

While much of the Caribbean has been lost to development, tiny Tobago remains stubbornly resistant to change, thanks to a history of rainforest conservation dating back to the 18th century

Words Lyn Hughes

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The Main Ridge Forest Reserve is cut through by trails that were primarily created by locals, who used them for getting around before the first road was built across the island (Alamy)

The Main Ridge Forest Reserve is cut through by trails that were primarily created by locals, who used them for getting around before the first road was built across the island (Alamy)

The motmot is one of the more striking birds on Tobago (Alamy)

The motmot is one of the more striking birds on Tobago (Alamy)

The Main Ridge Forest Reserve is cut through by trails that were primarily created by locals, who used them for getting around before the first road was built across the island (Alamy)

The Main Ridge Forest Reserve is cut through by trails that were primarily created by locals, who used them for getting around before the first road was built across the island (Alamy)

Thick gunmetal-grey clouds coated the sky, a smudge of a rainbow fighting to be visible. I had a last sweep of the ocean through my binoculars, hoping to spot dolphins among the whitecaps – I had been told they passed by Castara Bay most mornings. A pair of parrots squawked overhead and a flash of blue in my peripheral vision made me turn to see a motmot land on the end of my verandah. I looked back down the bay and spotted a young guy, presumably a tourist, strolling the golden beach, shoes in hand, happily oblivious to the falling rain. It seemed to sum up everything I was feeling about Tobago.

I can tell how much I like a place by how I feel about it in the pouring rain, and Tobago has charm to spare. It also has substance. When the resort chain Sandals tried to open its biggest ever complex here in 2019, such was the local consternation about its effect on an island barely half the size of the Isle of Man that it stood little chance. The islanders sent them packing. Tobago may have a handful of resorts over on its flat south-west side, but they tend to be small, low-key affairs. The overall message was clear: this place isn’t for the masses.

“This is rainforest and it needs to be respected… There is no major logging of trees here and no quarrying”

Despite being the ‘second’ island in the dual nation of Trinidad and Tobago, it soon becomes apparent that locals don’t see things in these terms.

“We were never part of Trinidad or Venezuela. It was the British who put us together with Trinidad,” I was later told by Desmond Wright, the in-house guide at Cuffie River Nature Retreat. “Tobago was always by itself and different.” And that’s not just island pride talking; there is history to back it up.

A century before John Muir dreamed up the idea of a government-sponsored national parks system, the world’s first legally protected forest reserve, Main Ridge, had already been set up in Tobago. It’s a strange quirk of fate that one of the earliest examples of conservationism is to be found on this tiny island, more so that it came out of a history steeped in the brutal sugar plantations of colonialism. Yet this green spirit continues today, with Tobago now also home to a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, cementing its place as an unsung pioneer among the Caribbean islands. It was something that I was curious to see for myself.

The Gilpin Trace is a half-day hike that runs through the Main Ridge Forest Reserve (Alamy)

The Gilpin Trace is a half-day hike that runs through the Main Ridge Forest Reserve (Alamy)

An unusual history

“This is rainforest and it needs to be respected,” I was told by William Trim, former director of the Department of Natural Resources and Environment and now a renowned birding guide. “The community of Tobago are more aware of the importance of the rainforest compared with Trinidad and other Caribbean islands, so there is no major logging of trees here and no quarrying.”

But the origins of Tobago’s forest reserve struggle to live up to the noble sentiments of the present. Historically, the combination of the island’s fertile soil, rainfall and its geographical location made it one of the most fought over pieces of land in the Caribbean. It changed hands over 30 times between the British, French and Dutch from the early 17th century on, before being finally ceded to Britain in 1814. It only gained its independence in 1962.

William Trim [right] scrutinises the rainforest for birdlife on one of his tours (Simon Chubb)

William Trim [right] scrutinises the rainforest for birdlife on one of his tours (Simon Chubb)

The European lust for sugar saw plantations spread across the island. At the Tobago Museum I gazed at a map covering the period between 1807 and 1815. During this period there were 86 estates (plantations) here and a population of 16,613 enslaved Africans.

You have to go back even further to discover the roots of Main Ridge. It was in 1776, during one of the island’s spells under British rule, when a member of parliament, Soame Jenyns, advocated for the creation of a forest reserve here. This was the age of the Enlightenment, and he had read of a link between trees and precipitation. The reserve was described as being “for the purpose of attracting frequent showers of rain upon which the fertility of lands in these climates doth entirely depend.” In other words: for the continued success of the plantations.

The Main Ridge Forest Reserve is filled with waterfalls and slices of wilderness that remind you just what a natural gem this is (Alamy)

The Main Ridge Forest Reserve is filled with waterfalls and slices of wilderness that remind you just what a natural gem this is (Alamy)

Regardless of its roots, the value of the forest was largely respected down the years – a rarity in the Caribbean region, which retains just over 10% of its original forest cover. With the abolition of slavery, many of the formerly enslaved workers gained small plots of land where they could be self-sufficient. And when the plantation system collapsed, Tobago stayed very much a rural economy, eschewing the overdevelopment of other Caribbean islands. Nearly two-thirds of it is still smothered in evergreen rainforest today, attracting discerning nature lovers looking for a taste of the unspoilt Caribbean. I was one of them.

The idyllic Englishman’s Bay is capped by thick tropical rainforest (Alamy)

The idyllic Englishman’s Bay is capped by thick tropical rainforest (Alamy)

Into the forest

Having arrived at the Cuffie River Nature Retreat for a guided walk and lunch, I kicked myself that I hadn’t booked to stay for a few days. Every window looked out over lush forest, the air was thick with the fragrance of exotic flowers, and hummingbirds frequently darted by, landing on the plentiful feeders. The only sounds were of birdsong and rain, and I just wanted to curl up on a sofa and stay.

“I tried to create a space in the middle of nowhere that would be a retreat in nature,” said owner Regina Dumas, a charismatic Trinidadian in her 70s. After a career in rural development, and with her children having left home, she had been looking for what to do next. Her family had owned a cocoa plantation here and it provided the perfect place to set up a secluded small hotel. For labour, she used local villagers, arranging training where necessary, and when her maintenance man, Desmond Wright, showed an interest in birds, she was grateful at being able to add a new experience for guests.

“When we started, I knew nothing about birds,”Regina explained. “I found a local hunter to teach me. But then Desmond learned bird calls; now he’s been guiding our visitors all these years.”

Birds are one of the highlights for travellers to the island. While Tobago doesn’t have as many species as Trinidad, it does have some endemics not found there, and also attracts birds from South America.

“Twenty-two of the birds here are not found in Trinidad or other places in the Caribbean,” I was later told by William Trim on visiting the Main Ridge Forest Reserve. “And while some of the birds are found in South America, it would be more difficult to spot them there; it’s easier here.”

“Hundreds of red-billed tropicbirds wheeled through the air, some harassed by frigatebirds mugging them for food and nesting materials”

William and I met at the reserve’s visitor centre, and no sooner had we stepped out onto its verandah than he pointed out a Venezuelan flycatcher. “Some people spend days looking for one of these,” he said, smiling. “You’ve seen it within five minutes!”

I had been eagerly anticipating my first real taste of Main Ridge. Together we wandered a couple of the reserve’s walking trails while he explained how we were following paths once regularly used by the islanders, either on foot or by donkey, before the road was built over the ridge. He pointed out that the nails in the remnants of a wooden bridge were British and centuries old.

We were following the mountain streams, and as we walked, the forest came alive with birdsong. Every few metres there was something to stop and look at, whether it was the burrow of a trapdoor spider, a secretive fish or a plant with medicinal properties.

The visitor centre at Main Ridge has great views of the forest and ocean (Alamy)

The visitor centre at Main Ridge has great views of the forest and ocean (Alamy)

William was particularly excited at us seeing at least five white-tailed sabrewing hummingbirds, some of whom were displaying even though it wasn’t mating season yet. Iridescent green and blue in colour, this is Tobago’s largest hummingbird and it is only found here and in Venezuela. There were fears they could be extinct in Tobago after the devastating Hurricane Flora in 1963, but they have been recovering in numbers since.

Back at the visitor centre, there were far-reaching views down to the coast in one direction, but otherwise the scene was of thick forest coating the spine of the island.

“North-east Tobago is of great interest globally,” explained William, “and it was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2020.” He explained that this reserve encompasses not only Main Ridge but also the surrounding marine environment, home to coral reefs and mangroves, as well as local communities. For such a tiny island, barely 300 sq km in size, the numbers are astonishing: 1,774 species, 19 habitat types, 83 IUCN Red List species, 41 endemic species and 15 communities with a unique cultural heritage.

The rufous-tailed jacamar, spotted in the forests of Main Ridge, is often mistaken for a hummingbird (Alamy)

The rufous-tailed jacamar, spotted in the forests of Main Ridge, is often mistaken for a hummingbird (Alamy)

One of those communities is Castara, a fishing village on the Caribbean coast with just the right balance of local life and low-key tourism. Its two sandy beaches were deserted when I arrived, with just a few locals hanging out – or ‘liming’ as it’s known here – by the seafront. Vibrant soca music blasted out of a bar but there were no customers. A couple of American visitors I met explained that the village had been much livelier the night before when a steel pan band had played.

“Some evenings there is music and a bonfire on the beach. Otherwise, the noisiest things here are the roosters,” they warned. I had wondered what the earplugs in my room were for; I found out in the wee hours when a chorus of cockerels pierced the pre-dawn.

Veronika’s rescued horses take visitors for treks down to the ocean near the coastal village of Buccoo, where they swim across the bay while carrying travellers on their backs (Alamy)

Veronika’s rescued horses take visitors for treks down to the ocean near the coastal village of Buccoo, where they swim across the bay while carrying travellers on their backs (Alamy)

Wild surprises

It was a wrench to leave Castara, but I wanted to see more of the island’s north-eastern tip, its communities and its nature, so I had arranged a stay in Speyside, which is reportedly where Tobago’s tourism started.

The Blue Waters Inn sits on a private bay looking out to the island of Little Tobago, previously known as Bird of Paradise Island. It’s previous name comes from British politician Sir William Ingram’s attempt to introduce a colony of the titular birds from New Guinea in 1908, in a bid to conserve them. After his death, the island was gifted to the government as a nature reserve and, while the birds of paradise have since been presumed extinct, it remains an important breeding site for seabirds such as the red-billed tropicbird.

Newton George points to the skies above Little Tobago, which soon become filled with swooping red-billed tropicbirds (Simon Chubb)

Newton George points to the skies above Little Tobago, which soon become filled with swooping red-billed tropicbirds (Simon Chubb)

I took a tour there with former Little Tobago custodian Newton George, now one of the island’s best-known birding guides. A group of us took a glass-bottomed boat to the island, where we were surprised to be met by a chicken.

Newton explained that unlike the long-gone birds of paradise (he last saw one in 1981), these non-native interlopers still lived feral here, having been introduced when Little Tobago was inhabited decades ago.

A walk to the top of the island brought us to a viewpoint overlooking ocean, cliff and woodland, where nature was showcased in all its glory. Hundreds of red-billed tropicbirds wheeled through the air, some harassed by frigatebirds (the pirates of the skies) mugging them for food or nesting materials. Newton trained his telescope on half a dozen red-footed boobies perched in trees. A short walk down a nearby path also revealed a brown booby sitting on its nest, while the boat trip back took us over the reef, offering views of colourful parrotfish, angelfish and corals.

A red-billed tropicbird soars through the skies (Simon Chubb)

A red-billed tropicbird soars through the skies (Simon Chubb)

Tobago is known for its snorkelling and diving, but I was keen to try some other ocean experiences. I headed back down to Buccoo in the south-west to meet Veronika, a German equestrian who had originally come here as a tourist but fell in love with the island and the man who would become her husband. Within a few years she had rescued several horses, mainly former race horses from Trinidad, and was now working with local children and those with disabilities, providing therapy through interaction with these animals. But she also kept getting requests from tourists, so she now offers a holistic ‘Being with Horses’ experience that includes swimming in the ocean on horseback.

“We let the horses choose you,” she declared as the four of us stood there, bridles in hand, facing the animals. I had a quick flashback to school sports teams and the dread of not being picked. In this case though, a handsome bay thoroughbred came straight up to me and nuzzled my arm. His name was Morning Calm, an 11-year-old ex-racehorse.

Having all been selected, we mounted and made our way through the village, past the goat-racing track (Tobago races goats rather than horses), with several loose horses accompanying us. We had comfortable saddles but no stirrups, and we were exhorted to just let our bodies go with the motion of the horse, “as if wining” – a gyrating local dance.

“It felt unreal to be sitting in the equivalent of a warm bath and watching the occasional fish swim by”

Walking along the golden sands of Buccoo Bay, we eventually turned into the sea and started to head back the way we had come, keeping parallel with the beach. There was quite a swell, more than anticipated.

“Most of the time it’s completely calm here,” said Veronica. “It’s more of a challenge today. Look towards the waves; that way, if a big breaker comes, you’ll have seen it and you won’t be taken by surprise.”

Morning Calm was unfazed by the conditions, living up to his name, and when we eventually emerged I felt a sense of triumph.

London Bridge Rock is found near St Giles Island, an important breeding site for frigatebirds (Simon Chubb)

London Bridge Rock is found near St Giles Island, an important breeding site for frigatebirds (Simon Chubb)

While swimming a horse in the sea was exhilarating, I was keen to take to the water again to experience a couple of Tobago’s natural phenomena. We set off at dusk in a small boat and headed first to Nylon Pool, an offshore sandbar that provides the experience of being surrounded on all sides by the ocean yet being able to stand in metre-deep water. I slipped into the still pool; it felt unreal to be sitting in the equivalent of a warm bath while watching the occasional fish swim by.

Much of the earlier cloud had cleared by now and the stars were out. I was called back to the boat, whereupon the captain declared it dark enough for our next stop. We chugged past a beach, whose pristine white sands I could make out even in this light, and made our way to Bon Accord Lagoon. At first there was little to see: an expanse of dark water to our left, mangrove to our right. But then I was told to lower my hand into the water. As we put-putted along, I trailed my arm and a starburst of lights exploded around it.
I had the lagoon to myself and the only sounds were of cicadas or the occasional splash of a fish. I completely lost all track of time as I floated in wonder in the water, every movement producing a slipstream of bioluminescence. Stars twinkled overhead and fireflies flickered in the mangroves. Nature’s wonders don’t get much better than this.

About the trip

The author was supported by Visit Tobago

Lyn’s guides (all recommended), included Phill Williams of Trinbago Tropical Tours & Excursions; Zolani “Zee” Frank; Newton George.

Where to stay

Castara Retreats is a fabulous treehouse-style eco-lodge overlooking Castara Bay. It’s self-catering but it also has a good restaurant.

Cuffie River Retreat lets you relax and recharge while being tucked away and surrounded by nature. It has a saltwater pool and good food.

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Why does sustainable travel matter? https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/why-does-sustainable-travel-matter/ https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/why-does-sustainable-travel-matter/#respond Sun, 12 May 2024 14:12:21 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?p=73093 Karen Edwards writes about why travel goes hand-in-hand with being a citizen of the world...

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‘Why do you love to travel?’ It’s a question discerning travellers are often asked. ‘Where do I start?’ I always answer, before reminiscing about some of the extraordinary landscapes that have blown my mind, the cultures that have opened it and the wildlife experiences that are now forever etched into my memory.

The truth is travel is one of the most educational and enriching experiences we can have. Sharing cultures, respecting nature and developing a global understanding of life are just a few of the benefits. It is also a privilege, one that the majority of people aren’t able to enjoy. Those of us who travel do so for different reasons, yet what we receive from the world is often so much more.

Recently, however, the news has been hard to avoid. Our planet is changing, and reports suggest we all need to step up to protect it from irreversible damage. The latest Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) synthesis report, revealed that if we continue on our current greenhouse gas emissions trajectory, the world is likely to surpass the ‘safe’ 1.5°C temperature threshold, above pre-industrial levels, as early as the 2030s.

The increasing levels of carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide and methane created through anthropogenic activity, such as the use of fossil fuels and agricultural development, have accelerated the warming of the atmosphere since the Industrial Revolution of the 18th Century  – with the rate of increase gaining momentum as more complex technologies, including commercial air travel, have come into regular use. In turn, we are seeing more and more knock-on events from the changing climate, such as habitat and biodiversity loss, drought, flooding, wildfire and food systems degradation.

The WWF’s Living Planet Report revealed a 69% decline in monitored global wildlife populations between 1970 and 2018, suggesting biodiversity loss in significant (Alamy)

In addition, more and more key ecosystems – both on land and underwater – are slowly being dilapidated by human activity such as plastic pollution, infrastructural development, mining, agriculture and industrial fishing. The WWF’s 2022 Living Planet Report exposed a 69% decline in monitored global wildlife populations between 1970 and 2018, suggesting significant biodiversity loss is taking place across the globe. One million plant and animal species across the globe are currently threatened with extinction. Some scientists have even suggested the world could be at the beginning of a sixth mass extinction event.

Last year, researchers monitoring the Earth’s ‘Planetary Boundaries’ – which demonstrate the parameters in which Earth can maintain a stable and resilient environment – declared that six out of nine critical natural processes had been crossed, including the boundaries of climate change, biosphere integrity and the usage of land, freshwater ecosystems. The scientists who had long-warned us of climate change were now declaring urgent action was needed as our nature-based systems – the ones that support all life on Earth – were at risk of being altered.

The solemn speech by Tuvalu’s Foreign Minister, Simon Kofe – where he described how sea level rises due to climate change will, one day, leave his Pacific Island nation engulfed by water – really brought the situation to the forefront. The world is changing right before our eyes, he shared, and if we want to preserve and protect nature for generations to come, quick and efficient action is needed.

Our decision-making such as how often we travel, the companies we book with and how we get there, makes a difference not only to our experience but also our impact (Alamy)

How does sustainable travel help?

The good news is, action can be taken. While policy transformations are imperative on governmental and industrial levels, consumers can also be influential in enacting positive change. Embarking on more sustainable and responsible ways of travelling may not single-handedly slow down climate change or biodiversity loss, but it can offer the difference between a high-impact and low-impact trip in a local environment – which can transform lives.

Being clued up on the facts allows us to make better informed decisions. For example, did you know that those of us who fly on holiday and business are a part of just 11% of the world’s population that use flights for transportation? Just 1-2% of those people fly frequently. This astoundingly small proportion of the world’s population contribute to over 3.5% of global greenhouse gas emissions – a hefty carbon footprint indeed, but what can we do about it?

Of course, the answer here isn’t not to fly. After all, tourism is a £6.07 trillion global industry, with many national and regional economies depending on tourism. Plus, the tourism industry provides jobs for one in 10 people around the world. However, we can make better decisions to reduce our carbon footprint – such as choosing to fly long-haul less regularly, and embracing overland experiences at home or in Europe.

Considering when and where to travel is equally important. Nations and regions striving for lower greenhouse gas emissions, environmental protection and better tourism practices can and should be supported. Taking a trip in low and shoulder seasons helps mitigate the overcrowding of environments during the peak months – and allows seasonal tourism businesses to operate year-round.

Our decision-making around the companies we book with also makes a difference. Seeking out a tour operator that has a transparent sustainability policy – and that provides access to immersive community-run experiences and businesses within its itineraries – is great for boosting sustainable tourism in a local environment. A commitment to the Glasgow Declaration goal to halve emissions by 2030, and to achieve Net Zero before 2050, is a sign that an operator is genuine about reducing its environmental impact.

As we see more climate change-related adverse weather conditions taking place, we should also consider whether our presence is welcome in disaster-struck areas. Last year, we saw several countries battling horrifying wildfires – however not all of them wanted tourism to return immediately, at least until local rebuilding had been prioritised. Respecting local sentiment is incredibly important.

Supporting Indigenous communities, who represent just 5% of the world’s population and safeguard 80% of global biodiversity, is often at the crux of responsible tourism (Alamy)

Small steps, big differences

Our spending choices in-the-field are also vital. According to the United Nations Environmental Programme (UNEP), just USD$5 in every USD$100 spent by mass-market tourists benefit a host community. This means only a small amount of tourist expenditure reaches – and benefits – local people, with the rest typically going to international business owners. The inequity in tourism is startling – but there is something travellers can do.

Opting for community-based tours, where money goes directly into the host communities, is key. From locally-owned luxury boutique hotels to family-run guesthouses, businesses steeped in the community tend to carefully consider their footprint. Meals are typically made to order to reduce food waste, while energy and water consumption tends to be better managed. Best of all, this is a more intimate and genuine way to share cultures – an experience that is often lost in big-name hotels or resorts.

Taking time to understand the history of a place, respect all aspects of its culture and support Indigenous businesses, is yet another way to support local ecosystems and nature. After all, Indigenous people – who represent just 5% of the world’s population – are considered to safeguard 80% of global biodiversity. Their stewardship is truly global – with communities acting as guardians from the Amazon to the old-growth forests of Arctic Finland, and many places in between.

Seeking out ethical wildlife experiences that avoid overtourism and unethical practices looks after ecosystems and boosts investment in wildlife conservation (Alamy)

When communities benefit, the planet benefits

Opting for ethical wildlife experiences will ensure natural habitats and ecosystems are kept safe from overtourism and unethical practices such as chasing animals, touching or feeding them. Paying a little more to stay in a conservation-centred lodge or conservancy-based safaris can ensure money goes towards environmental preservation, lowering emissions, animal protection and community empowerment. Many conservancy-based camps work closely with local people to reduce human-wildlife conflict issues. Why not ask about the work a business does to support the local community before booking?

Ultimately, when a host community is thriving – with tourism income going directly towards much needed infrastructure such as healthcare, education and local development – the surrounding environment will also prosper. People will be willing to safeguard those vulnerable environments because nature provides them with a healthier and happier life.

Moreover, we shouldn’t underestimate the power of consumer behaviour. In the same way many of us have switched from accepting disposable coffee cups to carrying reusable flasks, or swapped from buying imported food products to seeking out seasonal, local produce, and even consuming less meat – a more conscious way of travelling can slowly change habits. Perhaps it can even lead to a revolution in he way the industry functions, perhaps by ditching detrimental habits such as pushing the boundaries of overtourism or engaging in irresponsible wildlife practices. Transformation in the types of products we buy can prompt an industry response, so maybe collectively we can make change happen.

So, why does sustainable travel matter? Because positive change is needed now more than ever. A more conscious, less consumerist mindset can make real world differences to the places we visit. Responsible choices when planning and booking trips can make real word differences to the people we visit. As this extraordinary planet goes on providing us with so much joy, enrichment and pleasure, why wouldn’t we give protecting it our best shot?

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The best travel books of 2024 (so far) https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/best-travel-books-2024/ Sat, 11 May 2024 00:00:00 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/inspiration/best-travel-books-2024/ From climbing Scotland's smallest mountains to tracing the stories behind the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, these new titles will get your feet itching...

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Claiming to be the first woman to have completed the ‘Sea, Street, Summit Challenge’ – swim the English Channel, run the London Marathon and climb Mount Everest – Jessica’s tale of how it happened falls into classic ‘unlikely hero’ territory. With humour and wit, she charts her journey from reluctant athlete to mentality monster, and in doing so gives life and character to the settings for her achievements.

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Wayfarer

By Phoebe Smith

Former Wanderlust editor Phoebe Smith swaps globetrotting for a story closer to home – both emotionally and geographically. Against a backdrop of Britain’s pilgrim paths, she retreads her own tale of trauma and loss, weaving it with those of past travellers. Along the way, she shows that the UK wilderness has restorative powers far beyond an invigorating view.

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Why We Travel

By Ash Bhardwaj

Journalist and broadcaster Ash Bhardwaj dives into the thing we’re all looking for: travel motivation. But as you might expect from a man who has met the Dalai Lama and walked 800km across India, this is no breezy self-help book. Instead, he ponders how a pastime that used to be associated with relaxation became all about what we can gain.

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Paddling France

By Anna Richards

Beyond the delights of the Riviera or the winery-speckled banks of the Dordogne, France’s coast, rivers and lakes aren’t sung about often enough. But there are marvels here. From the gorges of the Ardèche to the islands of Finistère, avid paddler Anna Richards tests 40 places for a canoe, kayak or SUP escape in France.

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Around the World in 80 Years

By Ranulph Fiennes

There is little extreme activity that Sir Ranulph Fiennes hasn’t done, from running seven marathons on seven continents to hauling loaded sledges across both polar ice caps. His latest read is a bit of a retrospective – as the redoubtable explorer turns 80 – gathering celebs and colleagues to review a life relentlessly well led.

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Foodie Places

By Sarah Baxter

The latest entry in the long-running, and delightfully illustrated, ‘Places’ series sees Sarah Baxter (another writer formerly of this parish) delve into 25 culinary capitals. Chosen with trademark good taste, these include tried-and-true foodie havens as well as some more surprising spots with their own world-class delicacies. We can feel our stomachs rumbling just thinking about it.

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The Half Bird

By Susan Smillie

We love an against-all-odds adventure that evolves into something grander. This tale of one woman’s solo sail from Land’s End to the shores of Greece has all the hallmarks of the genre, as the author quits her job to follow her dream and somehow stretches it out into a three-year voyage. With only the basics onboard, this soon turns into a thoughtful meditation on solitude, resilience and the irresistible lure of the sea.

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Local

By Alastair Humphreys

After years of expeditions all over the planet, British explorer Alastair Humphreys turns his gaze on the area in which he lives. In doing so, he ends up learning more about the natural world than in all his years of travelling. The resulting story prompts a revelation we can all relate to: that the wildlife around us needs protecting.

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Saudi Arabia

By Grace Edwards

This book is perhaps most notable for being the first English-language guide from a major travel publisher written exclusively on Saudi. It will surely be one of many to come and offers great advice on a remarkable region that travellers are still just learning about.

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The Seven Wonders of the Ancient World

By Bettany Hughes

While all but Egypt’s Great Pyramid have been lost to history, the Seven Wonders of the old world still enthral us today. Historian Bettany Hughes brings her trademark intelligence and enthusiasm to bear as she traces their stories and realises that they all share one thing: humanity’s capacity to dream big.

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Terrible Maps

By Michael Howe

Drawing on the popular social media feed of the same name, this book sits firmly on the side of the editorial fence labelled geographical dad jokes. But we love cartography in any form, especially if it points out how similar the shape of Oklahoma is to a thumbs-up.

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Love from Venice: A Golden Summer on the Grand Canal

By Gill Johnson

Charting a summer of rebellion in 1950s Venice, this memoir recalls a time when the author swapped a comfy gig at London’s National Gallery for teaching English to an aristocratic Italian family, drawing on the letters she sent to her admirer. In embedding herself in the city’s high society, she also bears witness to the dying days of the Grand Tour, when Europe’s young socialites ran wild across its old cities.

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Black Ghosts: A Journey Into the Lives of Africans in China

By Noo Saro-Wiwa

Author Noo Saro-Wiwa looks beyond the usual historical or political subjects that take the focus of most books on China and instead looks at what she calls ‘Black ghosts’: the large numbers of African economic migrants living there. In doing so, she explores a little-documented world, meeting everyone from drug dealers to cardiac surgeons, and looks at how these often cloistered communities intersect with the wider Chinese society.

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Walking Scotland’s Best Small Mountains

By Kirstie Shirra

The popularity of munro-bagging – climbing all the mountains in Scotland over 914m – has meant that many of the country’s smaller peaks are often overlooked. This book proves that what they lack in stature, they more than make up for in character, offering a series of routes that are aimed at providing day walks with ascents accessible to non-climbers.

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The post The best travel books of 2024 (so far) appeared first on Wanderlust.

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Creating a wildlife park with Ricardo Almazán https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/creating-a-wildlife-park-with-ricardo-almazan/ Thu, 09 May 2024 15:15:09 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=73323 We speak to Ricardo Almazán, rewilder and director of La Maleza Wildlife Park in Teruel...

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We speak to Ricardo Almazán, rewilder and director of La Maleza Wildlife Park in Teruel…

View the story

Creating a wildlife park with Ricardo Almazán

We speak to Ricardo Almazán, rewilder and director of La Maleza Wildlife Park in Teruel…

Scroll down to learn more

Protecting swathes of natural landscape, and involved in the release of Spain’s first semi-wild herd of the specially bred cattle called tauros, Parque de Fauna La Maleza (La Maleza Wildlife Park) is paving the way for a wilder, more biodiverse future in the Iberian Highlands. The park’s director, Ricardo Almazán, discusses the work being carried out, and explains how you can visit and what to expect here.

Photo by Lidia Valverde

Photo by Lidia Valverde

How did La Maleza become a wildlife park and rewilding centre?

The park used to be a zoo, with bears and other large animals in tiny cages. It broke my heart to see them like that. When the zoo closed, my husband and I sold our business and bought these 23 hectares of land [in south-west Aragon] with a vision to conserve the natural landscape and turn it into a sanctuary for rescued animals. Our ultimate goal was to teach people about the wild species that once roamed freely across Spain. The rewilding project came later, when Rewilding Spain contacted me to help facilitate the release of the first herd of tauros – a cow bred to behave like the extinct aurochs – and semi-wild Pottoka ponies.

La Maleza Park

La Maleza Park

What animals do you have there?

We house only animals that are native to the Iberian Highlands or well suited to this environment, such as Iberian wolves and foxes, ibex, wild boar and deer. All of our animals are here because they cannot be released into the wild, usually because of injury or because they have been born in captivity elsewhere and would no longer be able to survive in the wild.

Photo by Lidia Valverde

Photo by Lidia Valverde

How is La Maleza different from a zoo?

First, the enclosures are much bigger than in zoos, and built in harmony with the natural landscape. Because of this, the animals spend most of the day undisturbed by humans, in a state of semi-freedom. The only time visitors will see the wolves, for example, is during public feeding time, once a day.

The types of animals we rescue are also an important differentiator. We accept only species that are naturally adapted to this landscape and climate – so no penguins or giraffes. This is because, first, it’s cruel to keep animals in environments they’re not used to, and second, we want to teach people about animals native to this region.

But the biggest difference is our approach to education, which is centred around rewilding. At a zoo, you walk past animals – many of which have been bred specifically for captivity – behind a glass window or in a wire cage. Maybe there’s an information plaque to explain what the animal eats and how big it grows. But here, we want to make people think. Most days, I give talks about our wolves, foxes and tauros, explaining why they’re under threat and how important they could be in regenerating our landscapes.

We want people to question how they think about wildlife, especially the species that are often misunderstood or demonised, such as wolves and foxes.

Photo by Lidia Valverde

Photo by Lidia Valverde

What’s the best way to visit?

I recommend arriving in the morning, and to spend some time walking our marked trails, which take in all of our animal enclosures. Then join our educational talks on the tauro (12.30pm), the Iberian wolf (1pm), and the fox (1.30pm), at which you’ll learn about the species and their impacts on the environment. In the case of the wolves and foxes, you’ll also be able to see them feeding during these times.

If you’re here between spring and autumn, finish your visit with a sunset safari to our nearby rewilding territory, where you’ll be able to see herds of free-roaming tauros and endangered Pottoka ponies.

La Maleza Park

La Maleza Park

Item 1 of 4

Glossary

Sustainability

The quality of being able to continue over a period of time, or the avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance (Camrbdige Dictionary).

Biodiversity

This refers to ‘the variability of living organisms, between and within species, and the changeability of the ecosystems to which they belong’ (The Convention on Biological Diversity).

Responsible Tourism

According to the Responsible Tourism Partnership, ‘Responsible Tourism requires that operators, hoteliers, governments, local people and tourists take responsibility, and take action to make tourism more sustainable. Behaviour can be more or less responsible, and what is responsible in a particular place depends on environment and culture’. The concept was defined in Cape Town in 2002 alongside the World Summit on Sustainable Development.

Rewilding

The process of protecting an environment and returning it to its natural state; for example, bringing back wild animals that used to live there (Cambridge Dictionary).

Zero-kilometre Food

A movement reducing the distance between producers and sales and consumer establishments to a radius of under 100 kilometres, with the aim of minimising the effects that large-scale industry have on the planet, including soil erosion, water pollution, and habitat loss for wild species.

Green

Being ‘green’ is used to describe actions or initiatives that are conducted in a sustainable way, in an attempt to reduce impact on planetary resource limits. However, the word can be used to describe actions or initiatives that do not actively do this, but rather convey an ethos of being planet-friendly; eg being outside, walking or riding a bike. This can be considered ‘greenwashing’ (when an individual or company paints an action as credibly sustainable when, in fact, it is an action that beenfits them, or that should be considered the bare minimum).
𖥸 Sustainable Travel

The post Creating a wildlife park with Ricardo Almazán appeared first on Wanderlust.

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Accessibility in Spain: a journey to inclusive travel https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/accessibility-in-spain-a-journey-to-inclusive-travel/ Thu, 09 May 2024 14:40:27 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=73298 Spain is making great strides in ensuring that cities, museums, beaches and islands are accessible to people with limited mobility or other kinds of disability

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Spain is making great strides in ensuring that cities, museums, beaches and islands are accessible to people with limited mobility or other kinds of disability

View the story

Accessibility in Spain: a journey to inclusive travel

Spain is making great strides in ensuring that cities, museums, beaches and islands are accessible to people with limited mobility or other kinds of disability

Scroll down to learn more

two brown table outside

Photo by Johan Mouchet

Photo by Johan Mouchet

Spain remains the number-one holiday destination for British travellers. Now the Spanish Tourist Office has launched its Spain for All campaign, promoting accessibility and diversity throughout the country.

At the heart of the Spain for All campaign is a commitment to improve accessibility and promote social inclusivity in the country’s tourism sector. Involving government agencies, tourism boards and local communities, this initiative is not just about meeting regulatory requirements. It intends to create an environment where everyone can fully participate in and enjoy the wonders of Spain – regardless of ability. Manuel Butler, Director of the Spanish Tourist Office in the UK, stated that the aim is “to create geographic and economic sustainability with a socially inclusive tourism model that spreads the benefits around the country, 365 days of the year”.

How will this work in practice?

The first phase of the Spain for All initiative includes establishing an advisory panel to gather industry feedback, in order to pinpoint key challenges and opportunities. Holidaymakers can find support and information through Spain is Accessible, an online platform endorsed by Spanish institutions to standardise accessibility criteria across various sectors.

It provides information on culture, food and nature, as well as support for visitors with disabilities, allowing them to plan their trips with ease. Simply filter by tourist destination, theme or type of disability to find all the information you need.

Accessible flying

All airports in Spain offer free assistance services for people with reduced mobility or with mental, hearing or visual impairments. The form to request this assistance is available in Spanish and English on the website of the airport operator Aena, where you’ll also find information on meeting points and details specific to each airport. On arrival at a terminal, an assistant will be available to offer support throughout check-in, security control, boarding, disembarking and baggage collection.

brown framed glass building interior

Photo by Alev Takil

Photo by Alev Takil

Are the big cities set up with sustainable infrastructure?

Spain has been proactive in implementing accessibility regulations and ensuring that public spaces, transport systems and accommodation options are designed to serve people with diverse needs. Cities such as Madrid and Barcelona, for instance, have made great strides in ensuring the accessibility of their metro systems, with ramps, lifts and tactile paths making it easier for visitors with mobility challenges to get around on these networks.

Most of Madrid’s main attractions are wheelchair accessible and offer wheelchair rental services. Streets are largely flat, with ramps at most junctions. To further assist pedestrians, audio signals are installed at all crossings.

Barcelona is widely regarded as one of the most accessible cities in the world, especially in terms of public spaces and streets. Car-park entrances are designed to be unobstructed, and most streets are wide enough for wheelchair users. The city also has an extensive range of social services that provide advice, assistance, information, and financial support for people with disabilities.

How accessible are the beaches, attractions and roads on the Costa del Sol?

This stretch of the Andalusian coastline is renowned for its spectacular shorescape – and for its accessible beaches for visitors with disabilities. Misericordia Beach in Málaga is one of the best in this respect, catering not only to visitors with mobility restrictions but also to those with visual and hearing impairments. It offers reserved parking, access ramps, boardwalks, amphibious chairs, accessible toilets and showers, and dedicated support staff. Other features include a beach totem, marine information beacons, distress beacons, and a waterproof transmitter clock.

Most attractions, restaurants and streets on the Costa del Sol are now disability friendly, ensuring an enjoyable visit for all. Shopping centres, too, are wheelchair accessible and offer reserved parking close to the entrance.

empty seats and tables in between buildings during daytime

Photo by Jonas Hoss

Photo by Jonas Hoss

What about Spain’s islands?

Spain’s two archipelagos, the Balearic Islands and the Canary Islands, are particularly attractive holiday destinations for British travellers. With their spectacular landscapes and postcard perfect beaches, these islands have long been a magnet for visitors seeking both adventure and relaxation. And accessibility in both island groups has improved enormously.

Are the Balearic Islands accessible?

To ensure accessibility for all in the Balearic Islands, amphibious chairs and crutches, accessible walkways and ramps have been introduced at beaches such as Es Pujols on Formentera and on Palmanova and Alcúdia, Mallorca. All of the islands also offer accessible hiking trails for visitors with reduced mobility, including the Finca Pública de Galatzó estate in the heart of the Serra de Tramuntana range, and the historical Camí de Cavalls trail that winds around the coast of Menorca.

In addition, cultural attractions such as the Museo Puget in Ibiza and the Balearic Museum of Natural Science in Mallorca have installed wheelchair ramps, audio and sign guides, and tactile exhibits to facilitate communication.

closed window

Photo by Kadir Celep

Photo by Kadir Celep

And the Canary Islands?

Making a concerted effort to improve accessibility, the Canary Islands are being transformed to make it easier for everyone to discover their beauty. From accessible beach ramps to adapted accommodation and wheelchair-friendly hiking trails, the major islands of Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote are leading the way.

One shining example is Lanzarote’s Timanfaya National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve renowned for its lunar- like landscapes. Thanks to recent accessibility improvements, such as adapted transport, accessible viewpoints and guided tours with trained staff, visitors with mobility challenges can now explore this natural wonder with ease.

Efforts aren’t just about improving physical accessibility – they also aim to create a welcoming and inclusive atmosphere. Local businesses and adapted holiday providers such as LanzAbility in Lanzarote cater to the diverse needs of holidaymakers, offering unique experiences such as scuba diving and parasailing for wheelchair users. “True accessibility entails two key elements: having adapted infrastructure across all areas of life, and focusing on your abilities, not your disabilities,” said David Penney, founder of LanzAbility.

To plan a fully accessible holiday in Spain, visit Spain is Accessible to read about wider accessibility provision across the country, or get in touch with local adapted holiday providers such as LanzAbility.

a sandy beach with clear blue water next to a cliff

Glossary

Sustainability

The quality of being able to continue over a period of time, or the avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance (Camrbdige Dictionary).

Biodiversity

This refers to ‘the variability of living organisms, between and within species, and the changeability of the ecosystems to which they belong’ (The Convention on Biological Diversity).

Responsible Tourism

According to the Responsible Tourism Partnership, ‘Responsible Tourism requires that operators, hoteliers, governments, local people and tourists take responsibility, and take action to make tourism more sustainable. Behaviour can be more or less responsible, and what is responsible in a particular place depends on environment and culture’. The concept was defined in Cape Town in 2002 alongside the World Summit on Sustainable Development.

Rewilding

The process of protecting an environment and returning it to its natural state; for example, bringing back wild animals that used to live there (Cambridge Dictionary).

Zero-kilometre Food

A movement reducing the distance between producers and sales and consumer establishments to a radius of under 100 kilometres, with the aim of minimising the effects that large-scale industry have on the planet, including soil erosion, water pollution, and habitat loss for wild species.

Green

Being ‘green’ is used to describe actions or initiatives that are conducted in a sustainable way, in an attempt to reduce impact on planetary resource limits. However, the word can be used to describe actions or initiatives that do not actively do this, but rather convey an ethos of being planet-friendly; eg being outside, walking or riding a bike. This can be considered ‘greenwashing’ (when an individual or company paints an action as credibly sustainable when, in fact, it is an action that beenfits them, or that should be considered the bare minimum).
𖥸 Sustainable Travel

The post Accessibility in Spain: a journey to inclusive travel appeared first on Wanderlust.

]]>
Rewilding Spain’s Iberian Highlands https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/rewilding-spains-iberian-highlands/ Thu, 09 May 2024 09:33:03 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=73225 The introduction of tauros cattle in the Iberian Highlands, which straddle Castile-La Mancha and Aragon, is boosting biodiversity and creating opportunities for spectacular wildlife safaris

The post Rewilding Spain’s Iberian Highlands appeared first on Wanderlust.

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The introduction of tauros cattle in the Iberian Highlands, which straddle Castile-La Mancha and Aragon, is boosting biodiversity and creating opportunities for spectacular wildlife safaris

View the story

Rewilding Spain’s Iberian Highlands

The introduction of tauros cattle in the Iberian Highlands, which straddle Castile-La Mancha and Aragon, is boosting biodiversity and creating opportunities for spectacular wildlife safaris

Scroll down to learn more

(La Maleza Park)

(La Maleza Park)

The snow had started to fall when three enormous bulls charged toward us. I heard them before I saw them: heavy, short breaths and the thunder of hooves clattering on rock, trembling the mud beneath my boots like an earthquake. The biggest horns I’d ever seen, curving sideways and up to the sky like the handlebars of a Harley Davidson, were almost upon us. And there was nothing but open steppe between me and a creature big enough to flip a car.

It was a cold winter weekend when I travelled into the Sierra de Albarracín range in Teruel province to see Spain’s first herd of semi-wild tauros. Specially bred to be released into Europe’s wild forests to improve biodiversity, they’re now genetically the closest living animals to the extinct aurochs, the ancient wild cattle from which all domesticated breeds are descended.

(La Maleza Park)

(La Maleza Park)

“The aurochs was our continent’s defining animal,” reads the foreword to The Aurochs: Born to be Wild, published by Rewilding Europe and the Taurus Foundation, two Dutch NGOs working to introduce tauros and other species to Europe’s wild landscapes.

“Not only was it a keystone species … but it also became crucially important to the history of mankind.” The aurochs has been extinct since 1627 when the last individual, a female, was killed in what’s now Poland.

In previous centuries, large numbers of this huge herbivore – bulls weighed up to a tonne – roamed freely in regions across the Old World, from Britain and southern Scandinavia to North Africa and Central Asia. But it was in Europe that aurochs had a particularly profound impact. For millennia, the aurochs was the largest mammal on the continent, after the woolly rhino and mammoth went extinct during the last Ice Age. It drew the ploughs of the ancient Minoans, and provided ancient Greeks with milk and hides. More importantly, these large herbivores – along with European bison, wild horses, deer and ibex – were vital for healthy ecosystems.

“Aurochs were the architects of the European landscape,” explained Pablo Schapira, biologist and team leader at Rewilding Spain, the local NGO partner of Rewilding Europe. “Aurochs fertilised the soil with their dung, removed excess biomass in the forests and created open spaces for other plants and animals to thrive.”

La Maleza Park

La Maleza Park

As aurochs declined over the centuries, large numbers of domesticated cattle grazed enough forest to maintain a thriving landscape. In recent years, though, a decline in livestock farming and increasing land abandonment across Europe has allowed forests and shrubs to grow unchecked, Schapira explained, increasing the risk of wildfires and reducing the overall biodiversity of European forests.

“We have a misconception of what a healthy forest should look like,” observed Schapira. “In Spain, we have a real problem with wildfires. This is because there is too much biomass in the forests and less open grassland to slow the spread.” Nearly four centuries after the aurochs’ extinction, Rewilding Europe and the Taurus Foundation are working to introduce tauros to European forests.

Referred to as ‘aurochs 2.0’, the tauro is the result of cross-breeding several types of European bovines – including the Spanish breeds Limia, Sayaguesa and Pajuna del Sur – to create a cow that looks, eats and behaves like the ancient aurochs. To date, some 500 tauros have been born, and the Tauros Programme has released herds in Portugal, Croatia, the Czechia, Romania, the Netherlands and, most recently, in the Iberian Highlands of central Spain.

Photo by Juan Carlos Muñoz

Photo by Juan Carlos Muñoz

Gentle giants

The three young tauros hurtling towards us pulled up just 100m away – but our safari guide, Ricardo Almazán, didn’t even flinch. “They won’t hurt us,” he smiled, as a thunderous, high-pitched ‘Moooooo!’ rent the air. One tauro raised his head to the sky like a wolf, nostrils flared and tongue hanging lopsided from his mouth. “They’re gentle animals – towards humans, at least.”

Suddenly, two of the bulls turned to face one another, butting heads with a bone-cracking crunch, hind legs kicking at the earth. Grunting, they waltzed from side to side with horns interlocked, thick breath rising from their nostrils, tails swaying. Yet though the fight looked fierce, they soon broke apart and continued as if nothing had happened.

Safari Rewilding La Maleza, a wildlife tour introducing visitors to Spain’s first herd of semi-wild tauros, is Ricardo’s brainchild. As well as being sustainability advisor to the local municipal government, he’s the director of Parque de Fauna La Maleza, a sanctuary for rescued Iberian animals including wolves, ibex and, soon, lynx.

Photo by Lidia Valverde

Photo by Lidia Valverde

When Rewilding Spain contacted Ricardo about bringing the first herd of tauros to the area, he agreed to run the project alongside La Maleza, funding much of the initial costs – more than €50,000 – himself. The safaris, launched in summer 2023 with a loan from the Rewilding Europe Capital fund, help repay some of those costs and bring much-needed tourism to the area. Most importantly, though, they enable people to see the benefits of rewilding first-hand.

“Spain has an urgent need to change its attitudes towards wildlife,” said Ricardo, a former restaurateur and hotel owner who, before opening La Maleza and reading extensively on the subject, knew little about running a rewilding project. “It’s all well and good releasing animals into the wild, but we need people to stop seeing them as a threat. If we’re ever going to succeed in rewilding Europe, we need people to want to live alongside these animals.”

Our journey had begun an hour earlier, boarding an open-topped Land Rover Santana to climb steep off-road trails flanked by dense pine forest, its trees planted in orderly, clearly artificial rows. “When you look at these pine forests, you see green,” said Ricardo pointing at the trees. “But what you’re actually seeing is a desert. Look at the forest floor: what do you see? Nothing. When one species dominates, nothing else can grow.” I followed his gaze. He was right: beneath the canopy lay nothing but brown earth and desiccated pine needles. As we drove deeper into the forest, I watched keenly for a deer or a wild goat – this was, after all, a wildlife safari. But I saw nothing – not even a bird.

Photo by Juan Carlos Muñoz

Photo by Juan Carlos Muñoz

Bringing back life

As we approached tauro territory, though, everything changed. The pines thinned out, allowing the mountainside to be flooded with natural light. Instead of uniform forest, I spied young, leafy trees and rocky mounds sprouting with rosemary, thyme and dozens of flowering plants and shrubs I couldn’t name. Within minutes of our arrival in this wilder area, a fallow deer bolted across the landscape.

Moments later, a wild boar waddled idly across our path, his snout wrinkling as he sniffed the air. My eyes were caught by a flash of yellow, white and black as overhead an Egyptian vulture circled. “This is what the Iberian Highlands would’ve looked like thousands of years ago,” said Ricardo. “There are maybe 40 or 50 plant species just in this area. At sunset, it’s just incredible – you wouldn’t believe how much wildlife there is.”

Straddling the regions of Castile-La Mancha and Aragon, the Iberian Highlands rewilding project landscape encompasses 850,000 hectares of pine and juniper forest, wide steppes and deep river canyons. Mass land abandonment since the 1960s has led to a population of fewer than two people per square kilometre here – the area is often referred to as “empty Spain” – and the return of deer, wild boar, mouflon and vultures. Over half of the area was already protected within Natura 2000 sites but, in 2022, the Iberian Highlands became part of Rewilding Europe’s initiative to turn the continent’s least populated areas into natural wildlife sanctuaries.

The tauro territory currently spans 1,000 hectares. It’s a relatively small space for such large, free-roaming animals, Ricardo told me, but big enough to make finding them tricky, especially in bad weather. On the day I visited, Ricardo used a satellite tracker, and Paco, a local employed by Rewilding Spain to care for the herd, helped locate them in the incoming snowstorm. As tauros gathered, we stepped out of the car and walked deeper into the forest, watching as the cattle browsed twigs and stripped bark like butter curls from young pine trees. “They’re the only animals that do that,” said Ricardo, admiringly. “Tauros eat what other wild and domesticated animals won’t touch.

Ricardo Almazán teaching visitors about La Maleza Park’s wildlife (Photo by Lidia Valverde)

Ricardo Almazán teaching visitors about La Maleza Park’s wildlife (Photo by Lidia Valverde)

Among the feeding tauros, Ricardo showed me a large hole in the bark of an enormous pine: a protected nesting site for the rare and vulnerable greater noctule bat, the largest and least studied in Europe. Alongside a river we spotted webbed toeprints and musty, jasmine-scented droppings – signs of an otter, not seen in the area for decades. Ricardo is confident that these species are returning here as a direct result of the introduction of the tauros. “This isn’t just about releasing a load of cows into the mountains,” said Ricardo. “The tauros are making these forests liveable again for other species – they’re bringing them back life.”

Among the feeding tauros, Ricardo showed me a large hole in the bark of an enormous pine: a protected nesting site for the rare and vulnerable greater noctule bat, the largest and least studied in Europe. Alongside a river we spotted webbed toeprints and musty, jasmine-scented droppings – signs of an otter, not seen in the area for decades. Ricardo is confident that these species are returning here as a direct result of the introduction of the tauros. “This isn’t just about releasing a load of cows into the mountains,” said Ricardo. “The tauros are making these forests liveable again for other species – they’re bringing them back life.”

In a small clearing in the woods, just past the sleek black Pottoka ponies, I saw swathes of pine forest covering the mountainside, and a sadness washed over me as I thought of all of the species unable to thrive in the darkness of that dense monoculture. But then a large black tauro strode past me, and the flash of light brown fur running down his spine – a trait passed down from ancient aurochs – reminded me that there is hope. Because of people such as Ricardo and NGOs including Rewilding Spain, one day the Iberian Highlands – and, perhaps, the whole of the European continent – could not only be inhabited by ancestors of the extinct aurochs, but also by thousands of other wild species, big and small.

Biologists and rewilding experts have highlighted the benefits of returning our planet to its wilder state yet, for most of us, such dramatic change – and personal sacrifice – can be hard to imagine, let alone believe in. As we headed back to the car, I asked Ricardo what motivated him to invest his life savings into rewilding his homeland. “Madness,” he laughed, unlatching the back of the Land Rover for me. The snow started to fall again, and it was time to head back down the mountain. “This is a life of constant work and expense. But if I left it to the government, it wouldn’t happen. Change starts with us.

(La Maleza Park)

(La Maleza Park)

Item 1 of 4

(La Maleza Park)

(La Maleza Park)

(La Maleza Park)

(La Maleza Park)

(La Maleza Park)

(La Maleza Park)

Need to know

Safaris Rewilding La Maleza tours depart from Parque de Fauna La Maleza, 15km from the town of Albarracín, every Saturday, Sunday and bank holidays between March and October around sunset, either at 5pm or 6pm depending on the time of year. In summer months (late July to early September), there are daily safaris at 9am and 7pm. Trips last around two hours and must be booked in advance via the park website. The safari vehicle carries a maximum of eight people.

Further information

Rewilding Spain (affiliated with the continent-wide Rewilding Europe organisation) has a range of projects in the country.

Photo by Lidia Valverde

Photo by Lidia Valverde

Glossary

Sustainability

The quality of being able to continue over a period of time, or the avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance (Camrbdige Dictionary).

Biodiversity

This refers to ‘the variability of living organisms, between and within species, and the changeability of the ecosystems to which they belong’ (The Convention on Biological Diversity).

Responsible Tourism

According to the Responsible Tourism Partnership, ‘Responsible Tourism requires that operators, hoteliers, governments, local people and tourists take responsibility, and take action to make tourism more sustainable. Behaviour can be more or less responsible, and what is responsible in a particular place depends on environment and culture’. The concept was defined in Cape Town in 2002 alongside the World Summit on Sustainable Development.

Rewilding

The process of protecting an environment and returning it to its natural state; for example, bringing back wild animals that used to live there (Cambridge Dictionary).

Zero-kilometre Food

A movement reducing the distance between producers and sales and consumer establishments to a radius of under 100 kilometres, with the aim of minimising the effects that large-scale industry have on the planet, including soil erosion, water pollution, and habitat loss for wild species.

Green

Being ‘green’ is used to describe actions or initiatives that are conducted in a sustainable way, in an attempt to reduce impact on planetary resource limits. However, the word can be used to describe actions or initiatives that do not actively do this, but rather convey an ethos of being planet-friendly; eg being outside, walking or riding a bike. This can be considered ‘greenwashing’ (when an individual or company paints an action as credibly sustainable when, in fact, it is an action that beenfits them, or that should be considered the bare minimum).
𖥸 Sustainable Travel

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Unearth the wildlife, Maya culture and local heart of Belize https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/unearth-the-wildlife-maya-culture-and-local-heart-of-belize/ Wed, 08 May 2024 16:53:07 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=73181 View the story Unearth the wildlife, Maya culture and local heart of Belize By Laura French Belize might be small,…

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Unearth the wildlife, Maya culture and local heart of Belize

Belize might be small, but its abundant nature, culture and adventure pack an almighty punch – and the experts at Latin Routes are ready to help you tap into its treasures…

From emerald rainforests, studded with crashing waterfalls to tumbling mountains, talcum-white beaches and UNESCO-listed reefs, Belize’s diversity is impressive – and its compact size means you can see a decent chunk of it in one go.

 Striking coral formations, colourful wildlife and millennia-old Maya architecture are among the unique attractions here, and if you’re looking to truly get under the skin, Latin Routes can tailor-make an itinerary to show you the real flavour of the country, connecting you with the people that call its spectacular landscapes home.

Wondering where to start? We’ve picked out some of the best things to do from across the country to help build your bucket-list trip.

Come to Belize and…

…Head out on an adventure

With around half the entire country carpeted in rainforest, Belize is something of a hotspot for adventure-lovers. From kayaking, hiking and caving to diving, zip-lining and tubing, there’s no shortage of things to do against the tumbling mountain backdrop.

At the heart of its adventure scene is the Belize Barrier Reef – a pristine stretch of blue that sprawls more than 180 miles along the Caribbean coast and forms part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef – the second-largest reef system in the world. Home to more than 500 species of marine life, this UNESCO-listed site is something of a paradise for divers and snorkellers, with nurse sharks, hammerheads, manta rays, parrotfish and turtles among the creatures to spot darting between its rainbow-coloured corals and kaleidoscopic sponges.

The tiny, quintessentially Caribbean island of Caye Caulker is one of the best spots to explore the reef from, while the Placencia Peninsula offers a quieter alternative with canyons, atolls, and cayes offering shallow waters ideal for beginner divers. But for the real pièce de résistance, head to the Great Blue Hole. Formed from a limestone cave which collapsed and flooded following the last ice age, this giant, cobalt sinkhole stretches 300m wide and 125m deep and is nothing short of spectacular. Oceanographer Jacques Cousteau named it one of the world’s top-10 dive spots in 1971 and it continues to live up to the name, with a purple, yellow and burgundy-red reef dropping into a huge, sapphire abyss; dive deep enough and you can still see the cave’s multi-coloured stalactites dangling down like giant cathedral spires. Alternatively, if you’re not a diver, admire the Great Blue Hole from above with a scenic flyover as part of the Latin Routes luxury Belize itinerary.

Above the water there’s plenty more in the way of adventure. The Cayo District is home to some of Belize’s most elaborate cave systems – including Barton Creek Cave, where you can admire otherworldly rock formations carved like giant, melting candles and learn more about the ancient Maya rituals that once took place here.

Jungle activities abound too; head to Nohoch Che’en or Mayflower Bocawina National Park to soar over the canopies on a zip-line, or venture to the Maya Mountains in Cayo for some of the country’s best hiking and rappelling, set against a landscape of towering rock formations and tree-carpeted slopes. A myriad of national parks offer walking trails for all levels, and for the ultimate hiking adventure, there’s Victoria Peak – Belize’s highest mountain, offering an impressive panoramic view of forest and mountains for intrepid climbers up for an overnight challenge.

Indulge in some luxury alongside your adventures on this Luxury Belize itinerary with Latin Routes. Enjoy farm-to-table dining at elegant lodges, uncover ancient Maya history and wind down on pristine beaches.

…Stroll among Maya magic

Belize isn’t just about the adventure, of course; it’s filled with history and culture, with more than 600 ancient Maya sites – many still unexplored. Historically, its caves were considered portals to the Maya underworld, and today you can see their millennia-old relics, from ceramics, stoneware and jewellery to sacrificial skeletal remains; a particular highlight is Barton Creek Cave, a former Maya ceremonial site.

On land, you’ll find plenty more archaeological sites – especially around Cayo, Belize’s ‘Wild West’. Of particular interest is Caracol, an impressive cluster of stone temple pyramids which sits in the remote Chicibul Rainforest Reserve in the foothills of the Maya Mountains, and is easily accessible from the town of San Ignacio. Sprawling 77 square miles, this imposing site was once a flourishing city with a population of 150,000, making it bigger than modern-day Belize City. Today it’s home to 100 excavated tombs, alongside its central ‘Sky Palace’, which towers over 40m above the jungle floor.

Elsewhere in Cayo sits the site of El Pilar, Xunantunich – the home of El Castillo, the country’s second-largest pyramid – and Cahal Pech, one of the country’s oldest known Maya sites, dating back as early as 1,000 BC. Closer to Belize City lies Altun Ha, where the ‘Jade Head’ was discovered in 1968, marking the biggest piece of jade ever found in the Maya world (it’s now protected in a bank vault in Belize City).

But perhaps Belize’s most unique site is Lamanai – one of the longest occupied cities in Maya history, inhabited for more than 2,000 years and set on the banks of the New River Lagoon. Take a boat along the river to admire exotic birds, crocodiles and iguanas lounging on the banks, before reaching the site. Here you’ll find more than 700 mapped structures spanning the Maya Classic Period to the 19th century, offering a glimpse into the long-standing influence of this once all-powerful civilisation.  

Experience Belize’s rich biodiversity and the mesmerising archaeological sites of Lamanai and Xunantunich on this Wildlife & Wonders itinerary with Latin Routes.

…Witness the epic wildlife

It’s not just millennia-old architecture that Belize’s vast swathes of rainforest conceal, of course; they’re also home to a whole universe of wildlife, with more than 500 species of birds residing in the country, alongside a myriad of land creatures, from jaguars, ocelots (or ‘dwarf leopards’), pumas and other wild cats to howler monkeys, deer and tapir (Belize’s national animal, often referred to as a ‘mountain cow’).

For some of the best birdwatching, head to the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary – an extensive network of protected wetlands, lagoons and creeks home to more than 300 species of resident and migratory birds, from jabiru storks to boat-billed herons, great black hawks to neotropic cormorants. Visit in the dry season (from February to May) to see hordes of wading birds who flock here to feed.

In the Cayo District, Mountain Pine Ridge is another birding hotspot home to warblers, crossbills, falcons and more, while the towering, 30m-tall trees of Guanacaste National Park in central Belize are something of a paradise too. If you fancy getting off the beaten track, head to the Toledo region in the south of Belize, where the award-winning and sustainable Copal Tree Lodge offers the chance to stay on a farm amid 16,000 acres of preserved rainforest.

Beyond birdwatching, Belize offers plenty more in the way of wildlife – and nowhere is it better seen than at Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, a 150 square-mile biological corridor that lays claim to being the world’s only jaguar preserve. Today the reserve is estimated to be home to around 40 to 60 jaguars, alongside howler monkeys, tapirs, anteaters, armadillos, kinkajous, otters and the country’s four other wild cats. It’s best accessed from the towns of Dangria, Placencia or Hopkins, with buses available to take you to the village of Maya Centre; from there it’s around six miles to the entrance (easiest by taxi).

Elsewhere, the Tapir Mountain Reserve is a haven for the country’s national animal, while the Community Baboon Sanctuary in the country’s northern coastal plain is known for its day-long soundtrack of howler monkeys. Embark on a night tour to see the forest’s wildlife at its most active, or cast off on a river tour to seek out monkeys, crocodiles and other creatures basking in the shade.

Explore the beauty of Belizean biodiversity, including Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary to spot crocodiles and iguanas, and the underwater wonders of the Barrier Reef on this Wildlife & Wonders itinerary with Latin Routes.

…Make a difference to the local communities

Belize Tourism Board

Belize Tourism Board

Belize is more than just its landscapes, of course. Visiting Belize is also about immersing yourself in local culture, supporting the country’s communities and learning about its people – a diverse mix of mestizo, creole and indigenous Maya influences.

Home to three main Maya groups – Yucatec, Mopan and Q’eqchi’ – you’ll find the biggest indigenous communities in the Corozal, Cayo, Toledo and Orange Walk Districts. The Caribbean coast is home to a vibrant Garifuna population; Dangriga town in the country’s south is considered the Garifuna spiritual capital, with dance, food and musical influences also found in Hopkins, Barranco, Punta Gorda, Livingston and beyond.

Latin Routes gives travellers a chance to connect with local communities by featuring a visit to the San Antonio Women’s Co-Operative – a Planeterra-backed project founded to support Maya women by offering them a chance to share their artisanal skills, while sponsoring girls’ education and training young people. A number of other projects have also been created to support and empower communities, enabling travellers to get beneath the skin of this proudly diverse country.

If you’re looking to truly immerse yourself in the culture, though, put one of the country’s many festivals on your list. Garifuna Settlement Day on November 19 brings live music, Garifuna food (think hudut, or fish coconut stew, and cassava bread) and historical re-enactments, while the Costa Maya Festival in August sees Maya from across Central America gather for traditional ceremonies, dance and song, alongside a hotly contested beauty pageant. But the most vibrant of them all is Carnival in September, when more than 20,000 visitors flock to Belize City to witness elaborate street parades featuring colourful costumes and high-energy music – marking a testament to the vibrant, energetic and welcoming spirit of this colourful country year-round.

Discover the highlights of Belize from cave and river adventures in San Ignacio to Garifuna drumming lessons and snorkelling in beloved, coastal Placencia on this Highlights of Belize itinerary with Latin Routes.

Why Latin Routes?

As an award-winning Latin America specialist, Latin Routes tailor-makes trips to suit, drawing on first-hand expertise from its team of travel experts. Experiences, excursions and accommodation have been handpicked from across the region to help you dive deeper into each place, providing everything from local guesthouses to five-star luxury resorts to create the right holiday for you. Guests are given a dedicated, knowledgeable Travel Specialist to take the hassle of planning, with help on hand 24-hours a day throughout your trip, and an English-speaking guide to meet you on arrival in the destination. Latin Routes is also a member of the Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO), and all holidays are ATOL-protected, so you’ll have added peace of mind.

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Protecting habitats for birds in Extremadura https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/protecting-habitats-for-birds-in-extremadura/ Wed, 08 May 2024 15:47:50 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=73125 The visionary conservation of this wild region’s mountains, valleys, meadows, waterways and towns nurtures spectacular avian life – and avid birdwatchers

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The visionary conservation of this wild region’s mountains, valleys, meadows, waterways and towns nurtures spectacular avian life – and avid birdwatchers

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Protecting habitats for birds in Extremadura

The visionary conservation of this wild region’s mountains, valleys, meadows, waterways and towns nurtures spectacular avian life – and avid birdwatchers

Scroll down to learn more

© Birding in Extremadura

© Birding in Extremadura

In the leafy slopes of Extremadura’s high mountains, in its glacial valleys through which crystalline rivers flow, and across its golden dehesas (wooded meadows) rolling on to the distant horizon, silence prevails. Despite its rich natural and cultural heritage, this kaleidoscopic region, nestled between the cork oak groves and vineyards of Portugal and the windmills of La Mancha, goes largely unnoticed – by humans, that is.

Seen through a bird’s eyes, though, the diverse landscapes and well-preserved ecosystems of Cáceres and Badajoz – Spain’s two largest provinces, which comprise Extremadura – are highly desirable for the 385 avian species recorded here. Indeed, the region has become a sanctuary for species rarely seen in the Iberian Peninsula, such as the Spanish imperial eagle, cinereous vulture, black stork and black-tailed godwit.

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

In Extremadura, protection of the natural environment is tightly linked to bird conservation.

Almost 75% of its territory is classified as Important Bird Areas, including 71 Special Protection Areas for birds (SPAs) covering over 26% of the region. In addition, EU-financed nature conservation and management projects of the LIFE Programme have contributed to the recovery of various endangered bird species in the Iberian Peninsula by improving their habitats in Extremadura. For example, the LIFE Iberian Agrosteppes project succeeded in bringing together nature conservationists, livestock breeders and farmers to safeguard steppe birds.

More work is needed, though, particularly for species dependent on agricultural environments. In recent years, little bustard numbers have declined by over 60% in La Serena and Sierras Periféricas, Extremadura’s largest SPA.

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

Already, though, the region has led the way in protecting various bird habitats. Recognising that some species now prefer to nest in human constructions – cathedrals and churches, or spaces in other buildings – Extremadura became the first European region to designate as SPAs several of its urban centres hosting nesting colonies of lesser kestrel, one of Spain’s smallest breeding birds of prey.

Add the Villuercas-Ibores-Jara UNESCO Global Geopark, three Biosphere Reserves – Monfragüe, Tajo Internacional and La Siberia – and the Protected Landscapes of Monte Valcorchero and Castañar Gallego, and it’s clear why Extremadura is the birding paradise of southern Europe.

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

Extremadura’s best birding spots

Venture into the dense chestnut and oak forests among the southern foothills of the imposing Sierra de Gredos, in Extremadura’s far north-east, and you’ll be serenaded by the murmur of water and the whisper of wind through the treetops mingling with the melodious songs of blackcaps, chiffchaffs and nuthatches.

Descend from those picturesque highlands into the valleys of La Vera, Jerte and Ambroz to hear the calls of bluethroats and golden orioles (so rarely seen in the UK), and to spot goshawks, European honey-buzzards, Thekla’s larks and great cormorants.

Around Plasencia, further to the south, you might spot vultures, buzzards and eagles flying over the area’s characteristic cork oaks and glittering granite formations. This is where I grew up, and I remember with nostalgia the croaking of the graceful white storks perched on their nests in the cathedral complex, and the swooping flight of lesser kestrels above the Plaza de San Vicente Ferrer.

The Tagus River snakes around the rocky outcrops of Monfragüe National Park, some 30km south of Plasencia. Standing at the lofty Salto del Gitano lookout in the far west of the park, you might spot Egyptian and griffon vultures, red kites and eagle owls soaring over the Peña Falcón crag. The sight of these majestic birds of prey circling above the 300m cliff, or perching to feed their chicks, is one of Extremadura’s most unforgettable images.

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

Just east of Monfragüe National Park stretches the Arrocampo reservoir, created in the late 1980s to provide cooling water. It now hosts numerous species that relish its warm waters and nest among its abundant bulrushes. It’s home to Extremadura’s largest populations of purple swamphen, black-crowned night heron and purple heron – indeed, eight species of heron nest here.

The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Old Town of Cáceres makes a memorable base from which to head out birding in the surrounding plains, known as the Llanos de Cáceres, and across the wider province.

La Siberia Biosphere Reserve, in north-east Badajoz province, encompasses vast steppes, dehesas, mountains, Mediterranean forest and irrigated areas. It also features five reservoirs, including La Serena – Spain’s largest – and Orellana, a Ramsar site hosting a large colony of gull-billed tern and an estimated 65,000 wintering waterfowl each year. Despite gradual changes in Extremadura’s steppe systems, they remain refuges for pin-tailed and black-bellied sandgrouse, singing calandra larks, nightjars, stone-curlews and bombastic great bustards.

Mérida – another city boasting World Heritage-listed archaeological sites – is considered one of Spain’s finest settings for urban birding. From the Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River you can watch swallows, penduline tits, European bee-eaters, black- winged kites, and graceful Iberian magpies flying over the ninth-century Moorish Alcazaba.

The capital of Extremadura is also a fine base for exploring the ancient Roman reservoirs of Proserpina and Cornalvo or the rocky Sierra Grande de Hornachos mountains, and for birdwatching in Zafra and quaint villages among the vineyards and olive groves towards the Andalusian border.

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

© Extremadura Tourist Board

Need to know

When to go

Birdwatching in Extremadura is wonderful at any time of year. Mid-autumn to late winter is the best period to see most of the resident and wintering birds, including impressive flocks of egrets and cranes feeding and relaxing in the dehesas. Extremadura Birdwatching Fair is held in Monfragüe National Park each February. At the most important ornithological tourism fair in southern Europe, you can take guided tours, attend talks from specialists and enjoy creative workshops focused on bird conservation.

Getting there

Cáceres, Plasencia, Mérida and Badajoz are all accessible by bus or train from Madrid. Buses also run direct from Lisbon to Badajoz, Mérida and Cáceres. Travelling by public transport from cities to villages can be challenging. Ask at bus stations or tourist offices for local timetables, or check the websites of regional transport companies such as Cevesa and Leda; another handy website providing information on multiple transport providers is movelia.es/en. Carry cash to pay for services.

Events

Visit in spring or summer to enjoy diverse local festivals celebrating the history, culture and exuberant nature of Extremadura.

The Cherry Blossom Festival, held in the villages of the Jerte Valley from late March to early April, marks the arrival of these delicate blooms with exhibitions, medieval markets, open-air celebrations and tasting sessions.

Martes Mayor, held in Plasencia on the first Tuesday in August, reputedly dates back to the 12th century. Celebrations begin on the Monday night with parades and music. Then, on the Tuesday, the walled centre is transformed into a boisterous medieval market showcasing the best of the area’s local produce, particularly vegetables and fruits, while locals dance to the music of the flute and the tambourine.

Glossary

Sustainability

The quality of being able to continue over a period of time, or the avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance (Camrbdige Dictionary).

Biodiversity

This refers to ‘the variability of living organisms, between and within species, and the changeability of the ecosystems to which they belong’ (The Convention on Biological Diversity).

Responsible Tourism

According to the Responsible Tourism Partnership, ‘Responsible Tourism requires that operators, hoteliers, governments, local people and tourists take responsibility, and take action to make tourism more sustainable. Behaviour can be more or less responsible, and what is responsible in a particular place depends on environment and culture’. The concept was defined in Cape Town in 2002 alongside the World Summit on Sustainable Development.

Rewilding

The process of protecting an environment and returning it to its natural state; for example, bringing back wild animals that used to live there (Cambridge Dictionary).

Zero-kilometre Food

A movement reducing the distance between producers and sales and consumer establishments to a radius of under 100 kilometres, with the aim of minimising the effects that large-scale industry have on the planet, including soil erosion, water pollution, and habitat loss for wild species.

Green

Being ‘green’ is used to describe actions or initiatives that are conducted in a sustainable way, in an attempt to reduce impact on planetary resource limits. However, the word can be used to describe actions or initiatives that do not actively do this, but rather convey an ethos of being planet-friendly; eg being outside, walking or riding a bike. This can be considered ‘greenwashing’ (when an individual or company paints an action as credibly sustainable when, in fact, it is an action that beenfits them, or that should be considered the bare minimum).
𖥸 Sustainable Travel

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A gastronomy guide to Zadar https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/gastronomy-guide-to-zadar/ Mon, 06 May 2024 00:00:00 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/inspiration/gastronomy-guide-to-zadar/ The best way to get to know Zadar is through… your tastebuds. From fresh seafood to cheese perfected over generations, here’s what you need to try when you’re there…

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Blessed with the fruits of the Adriatic Sea, a fertile hinterland of olive groves, vineyards and orchards – not to mention herb-covered islands producing some of Croatia’s best cheese and lamb – Zadar Region’s culinary scene is ripe for discovery. Whet your appetite in this Dalmatian region of mouth-watering food festivals and a rich gastronomic heritage.

Seafood

Seafood is traditionally cooked in a peka pot (Shutterstock)

The Adriatic’s sparkling waters hold a bounty of superb fish and seafood, which you can see on the fish counters within Zadar’s excellent daily food market. You’ll find expertly grilled bream, bass and tuna on restaurant menus, along with octopus that’s been cooking slowly in a cast-iron peka pot. Risotto lovers aren’t left out either, as there’s a luscious local version made with cuttlefish.

Try the plump mussels of Novigrad cultivated in the waters of the inland Novigrad Sea, which get their own festival every June. Look out for mussels or scampi cooked na buzara, when they simmer in a sauce of garlic, wine, parsley and, often, tomatoes. Another favourite is brudet, a wonderfully rich fish stew that’s an intrinsic taste of Dalmatia. Take the ferry from Zadar to Ugljan, where the village of Kali has its own succulent take on the stew – cooked with conger and potatoes over an open fire.

Wine

Vineyards stripe Zadar’s countryside (Shutterstock)

Follow Zadar’s wine routes to discover not just popular grape varieties such as cabernet, syrah and merlot, but also indigenous ones including white maraština and gegić or reds including indigenous svrdlovina and Croatia’s version of zinfandel, crljenak. Boutique wineries offer tastings – and plates of moreish Dalmatian olives, meats and cheeses – in picturesque parts of the region, making the journey as delightful as the destination. Head into the hinterland to Škaulj Winery in the rolling hills of the Ravni Kotari region to sample full-bodied cabernet, merlot and syrah as well as delicate white maraština. Nearby is the MasVin co-operative, where you can taste muscat, one of the area’s loveliest sweet wines. The esteemed and elegant Vina Bora in Novigrad offers tastings of its tipples whose flavours are enhanced by the combination of the waves of the Novigrad Sea and the whipped up Bura wind from the Velebit mountain.

For some wine tasting in the heart of Zadar, head to Fiolić Wine Garden, set in the courtyard of the former St. Roko Church in Zadar’s picturesque market. If you don’t want to stray far from Zadar itself, Degarra Winery just outside the city offers wines from the fertile fields of Ravni Kotari, including the first Zadar sparkling wine by the traditional champagne method. And one of the most attractive settings for a winery is Kraljevski Vinogradi near Petrčane, where the unique microclimate of the Adriatic Sea and winds coming from high up in the Velebit Mountains combine for excellent winegrowing conditions. The vineyards in this region are among some of the oldest in Zadar, dating back more than 900 years.

Olive oil

Zadar’s climate is ideal for producing olive oil (Maja Danica Pečanić)

While you’re visiting MasVin, introduce yourself to 14 varieties of award-winning olive oils from the Ravni Kotari region. Northern Dalmatia’s climate is perfect for growing olives and producing fruity or peppery olive oils. Pop into the family farm owned by Mate Dušević near the coastal village of Ražanac and taste its 20 varieties, including the indigenous oblica and drobnica. 

A quick ferry ride from Zadar takes you to the neighbouring islands of Ugljan and Pašman, both joined by a bridge and home to family-run olive farms. At Muline in Ugljan are the ruins of an ancient olive oil mill that was the largest-known Croatian olive oil producer supplying this ‘liquid gold’ throughout the Roman Empire.

Cheese

Pag island is home to some of Croatia’s most delicious cheese (J. I. Cirijak)

The lunar landscape of Pag island – whose barrenness has a compelling beauty of its own – manages to produce some of the tastiest cheese in Croatia. All those sheep dotted around this long island, feeding on salt-encrusted herbs and shrubs, produce the deliciously tangy paški sir – Pag cheese – which is among the country’s most prized dairy products. The small village of Kolan is cheese central, home to Gligora Dairy, which offers guided tours of its cheese factory as well as a tasting room. Browse Gligora’s deli before relaxing with a drink and more cheese next door in the Cheese & Deli.

It’s not just the sheep’s milk that makes Pag stand out. The island’s lamb, fed on the same fragrant bushes, is tender and packed with flavour. Look out for restaurants that cook lamb shanks for hours in a peka – or slowly on a spit roast – for a delectable meal.

Salt

See Nin’s saltworks for yourself (Boris Kacan)

Salt, that essential staple of life, has been a fixture of Nin since this venerable coastal town north of Zadar was founded as Croatia’s first royal town back in the 9th century. A key geographical quirk of this beautiful home of medieval Croatian kings is the huge expanse of salt pans that sit just inland from the old town – itself set on its own island connected by bridges. And then there are the sandy beaches that envelop that little island and form a lagoon.

Take a tour of the Nin Saltworks and see how the salt is produced using traditional methods that have hardly changed in the past 1,500 years. Discover the history of salt production in the region from Roman times onwards. You’ll also see how the magical combination of the Adriatic Sea, Dalmatian sunshine and the famous Croatian bura wind makes Nin salt so special and worth taking home.

Maraschino

Maraschino is a drink that’s beloved by royalty (Maja Danica Pečanić)

Since the 16th century, when Dominican monks discovered how to make maraschino liqueur distilled from marasca sour cherries, this heady nectar has been one of the most celebrated flavours of Zadar. With just a slight hint of sweetness, this clear liqueur quickly spread around Europe’s royal courts in Paris, Vienna, London and St Petersburg, among others. Napoleon was a particular fan of it, and Britain’s own King George V had declared it “the king of all liqueurs”. Queen Victoria reportedly loved it so much that she ordered British warships to be diverted to Zadar from elsewhere in the Mediterranean to stock up on up on the liqueur.

Maraschino is delicious on its own, but if you’re into classy cocktails, you’ll want buy a bottle. Use it to make a Hemingway Daiquiri, an Aviation, a Jockey Club, a Maraschino Spritz, or a classic Martinez cocktail that’s been around since the late 19th century.

Feeling inspired?

For more information, head to the official Zadar Region Tourism website.

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A taste of the past in Jeonju, South Korea https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/jeonju-a-taste-of-the-past-in-south-korea/ Sun, 28 Apr 2024 09:03:01 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=58339 The district of old hanok houses in Jeonju offers an atmospheric taste of South Korea’s past in this most modern of countries

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The district of old hanok houses in Jeonju offers an atmospheric taste of South Korea’s past in this most modern of countries

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The district of old hanok houses in Jeonju offers an atmospheric taste of South Korea’s past in this most modern of countries

Time-warp in Jeonju

Hanok houses in South Korea

The sun kissed the woman’s cheeks. She turned to me with a sigh and indicated the splendid spectacle. “It’s a Mediterranean light, right?” She was being polite of course. It was as if to say, “Welcome to Korea! It’s not so different, is it?”

I nodded appreciatively, but we both knew that it – that lingering, sensual sunset – was pure, undiluted Korean. The kind of light that the peninsula enjoys from the hustle of capital Seoul in the north all the way down (nearly 500km) to the volcanic beaches on subtropical Jeju Island off the south-west coast.

I was midway between them, in Jeonju, gazing at a neighbourhood of traditional hanok dwellings that was spread around us, splashed with the evening glow. The light spilled across the low-slung swallowtail roofline, and streamed along alleyways and into courtyards. It was as sweet and smooth as the cup of makgeolli fermented rice wine in front of me.

From the fourth-floor roof terrace of the Lahan Hotel (one of the tallest structures in the ‘village’, and fortunately tucked away on its eastern fringe), the lamplight of Jeonju’s new town could just be made out. Located a kilometre or two west, between us and the dusky sun, the contemporary city has many attractions – tourists decamp after dark to Daga-dong district for hipster cafes and some distinctly retro eateries. But the focus of every visit to Jeonju is this quarter of 700 or more century-old hanok.

Hanok are traditional cottage-like dwellings, single storeyed mostly, sometimes with a courtyard, built in several styles depending on the status of the original occupants. Those farmers and merchants have moved on, and today many of Jeonju’s hanok are the domain of homestays and cafes, craft stores and some good restaurants.

Hakindang’s attic offers views across the village

Hakindang’s attic offers views across the village

Hakindang’s attic offers views across the village

There’s been a settlement in this sheltered valley in the country’s west for more than two millennia. It was the seat of power for one of the kingdoms that shared the Korean peninsula in the tenth century, and later was the birthplace of the Joseon Dynasty, all-ruling for 500 years until 1910 when Japanese colonialists took hold.

Inside a hanok house

Hakindang is a traditional hanok house that now offers Korean-style homestay

Hakindang is a traditional hanok house that now offers Korean-style homestay

Reaching from the Lahan Hotel in the east, today’s one square kilometre maeul (as such villages are known) is centred on Gyeonggijeon shrine, which protects a ‘national treasure’, the 14th-century portrait of Yi Seong-gye, founder of that powerful dynasty. The helmet-domed towers of Jeondong Cathedral (built in 1914) mark its western boundary, adjacent to Nambu bazaar.

“Today many of Jeonju’s hanok houses are homestays and cafes, craft stores and good restaurants”

And that is where my day had started, at a makeshift market on the banks of the Jeonju Stream, which slips around the southern edge of the village. Sellers turned up with garden-grown chillies, fistfuls of herbs and plastic bowls slopping with freshwater winkles and loach (of which they were clearly proud). A woman loaded a box of tangerines onto her ageing husband’s back. “So he’s good for something!” They all laughed except the bearer, who watched his step on the narrow slab bridge connecting the contemporary city with old village behind.

South Korea enjoys total interconnectedness: physically, via leading-edge technology and superfast trains (Seoul folk can cover the 200km south to Jeonju in as little as 92 minutes) and abstractly, with its precious traditions and cuisine. Korean daytrippers value time spent mixing their 21st-century pleasures (such as streetfood and e-scooters) with a hearty serving of cultural inheritance. A visit to Jeonju’s hanok village, for example, seems to inspire visitors of all ages to parade in hired traditional hanbok dress for at least part of the day.

Woman in hanbok costume in South Korea

A woman’s hanbok costume comprises a jeogori (blouse or jacket) and a chima (wrap-around skirt)

A woman’s hanbok costume comprises a jeogori (blouse or jacket) and a chima (wrap-around skirt)

Woman in Hanbok costume

Women dressed in hanbok costume

Women dressed in hanbok costume

Hanok house in South Korea

Traditional hanok houses are made from all natural materials including wood, stone and paper

Traditional hanok houses are made from all natural materials including wood, stone and paper

Person eating Bibimbap

The carefully placed ingredients of a good bibimbap should be well mixed together before eating

The carefully placed ingredients of a good bibimbap should be well mixed together before eating

Man pouring tea in South Korea

Gi Jung Hwang is the master of Gyodong Dawon teahouse, and serves tea made using leaves grown in his plantation in a nearby valley

Gi Jung Hwang is the master of Gyodong Dawon teahouse, and serves tea made using leaves grown in his plantation in a nearby valley

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Woman in Hanbok costume

Women dressed in hanbok costume

Women dressed in hanbok costume

Hanok house in South Korea

Traditional hanok houses are made from all natural materials including wood, stone and paper

Traditional hanok houses are made from all natural materials including wood, stone and paper

Person eating Bibimbap

The carefully placed ingredients of a good bibimbap should be well mixed together before eating

The carefully placed ingredients of a good bibimbap should be well mixed together before eating

Man pouring tea in South Korea

Gi Jung Hwang is the master of Gyodong Dawon teahouse, and serves tea made using leaves grown in his plantation in a nearby valley

Gi Jung Hwang is the master of Gyodong Dawon teahouse, and serves tea made using leaves grown in his plantation in a nearby valley

To most Koreans, though, Jeonju is best known as a culinary capital. As the spiritual home of bibimbap – that iconic dish of rice, meat and fermented veggies – visitors come for a taste of old-school and new-wave versions. I joined the crowd and wandered the lanes munching on a crispy deep-fried croquette stuffed with steamy bibimbap. It probably tasted even better for those dressed to the nines in 19th-century costume.

It’s this casual meeting of tradition, playfulness and good food that has made Jeonju the fourth most popular domestic destination for Korean tourists – more than ten million make their way here each year.

Gyodong Croquette’s streetfood comes in various guises, including a Jeonju bibimbap-stuffed baguette

Gyodong Croquette’s streetfood comes in various guises, including a Jeonju bibimbap-stuffed baguette

Yet despite this ongoing fascination with their history, the taste for (quick) coffee has pushed traditional tea to the sidelines. In these time-poor days, visitors’ itineraries don’t have the space for a contemplative cup of cha. In the 1980s dozens of teahouses huddled around these lanes, now just a handful remain.

At Gyodong Dawon, his courtyard teahouse, Master Gi Jung Hwang carefully showed me the leaves grown in a valley just 20 minutes out of town. His hwangcha yellow tea is lightly fermented, it blooms into a deep but delicately floral drink with a remarkable golden lustre – the same colour as the setting sun.

As I sat on the floor at the low wooden table, Master Hwang poured my tea carefully. In his hushed teahouse the clock stopped ticking. For a moment.

Busy street foot counters in South Korea
Corner of building in South Korea

The stone-and-wood Pungnam Gate is all that’s left of Jeonju’s old fortress walls

The stone-and-wood Pungnam Gate is all that’s left of Jeonju’s old fortress walls

PLACES TO GO IN JEONJU

For bibimbap

Hanguk-jip Restaurant (119 Eojin-gil) has been making a definitive version of bibimbap since 1952. The local style is to serve beef-broth-boiled rice with namul toppings (uniquely including a mung bean jelly called hwang pomuk) in a brass bowl. This elegantly presented offering must all be thoroughly combined (along with a good dollop of gochujang chilli paste) until it’s a big, messy mishmash – bibimbap means ‘mixed rice’.
At the other end of the spectrum, streetfood counter Gyodong Croquette (126 Gyeonggijeon-gil) stuffs deep-fried buns (and fresh baguettes) with bibimbap and other iconic Korean flavours including galbi (grilled rib).

For tea

Tucked down an alley and set in a tranquil courtyard, Gyodong Dawon teahouse (65-5 Eunhaeng-ro) is a calming space for the reflective enjoyment of a superior cup of tea.

The restorative brews of Daho teahouse (12-3 Taejo-ro, Pungnam-dong) use liquorice, chestnut, jujube red date and ginger; the accompanying plates of dagwa sweet potato and burdock snacks are equally satisfying.

JEONJU ESSENTIAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

Getting there

Up to five KTX high-speed (Jeolla Line) trains connect Seoul Station and Jeonju. With journey times averaging 1hr 40mins, and the first train leaving at 7.05am, a day trip is a reasonable option. Some 12 services daily operate from Seoul’s Yongsan Station and take between 92mins and 2hr 15mins, starting as early at 5.10am. The final train of the day returns to Seoul’s Yongsan at 11.13pm (arriving at 12.40am). Fares cost around 35,000 won (£22) one way. The maeul is a five-minute taxi ride from Jeonju station (ask for Gyeonggijeon, the ancient shrine, which is pronounced ‘Kee-ung-gee-john’); the fare should cost around 6,000–8,000 won (£4–5).

Getting around

The maeul must be walked, but Segways, e-scooters and fat-tyre electric bikes can be hired at various shops, starting at 8,000 won (£5) for half a day. Old-school pushbikes are available for free for guests of some hotels.

When to go

Jeonju’s hanok village is interesting to explore throughout the seasons. July and August can be oppressively hot (with downpours). Winters are sometimes sub-zero if frequently bright and clear. Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) are reliable, with the red leaves and blue skies of October perhaps the ideal time to visit.

Left wanting more? Plan your trip to South Korea with Wanderlust

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6 under-the-radar places to visit in the Philippines https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/under-the-radar-places-philippines/ Fri, 26 Apr 2024 00:00:00 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/inspiration/under-the-radar-places-philippines/ A nation of over 7,000 islands, the Philippines is a place where it’s easy to hop off the beaten track in search of its hidden wonders. Here’s where to visit…

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Most visitors to the Philippines only head to the same handful of islands – meaning that with a little imagination, you can craft an itinerary that’s completely unique. From secret beaches to Spanish forts, these are the places where you’ll carve out your own slice of paradise…

1. Fort San Andres, Romblon

The gardens of Fort San Andres (Shutterstock)

Romblon Island has beaches and scenery to rival its busy neighbour Boracay, yet receives a fraction of the visitors. From Manila, fly to Tugdan Airport on Tablas Island, then catch a tricycle to San Agustin and take a pumpboat to Romblon. The first sight that greets you as you approach Romblon is the imposing silhouette of Fort San Andres, watching over the island just as it did when it was completed in 1650. Together with Fort Santiago, it was built by Spanish colonists to guard against Dutch pirates. Fort San Andres is the only one of the twin forts that now survives; walk here from the town centre to see the well-preserved turrets, Spanish-era cannon, and views over the bay. Explore Romblon further by hiring an e-bike, which can be charged quickly and cheaply at plentiful stations around the island.

2. Hulugan Falls, Laguna

The cascade of Hulugan Falls is 72m high (Shutterstock)

The province of Laguna wraps around Laguna de Bay, the Philippines’ largest lake. From the province, countless waterfalls tumble into the rivers that feed the lake; of these, perhaps the most picturesque is Hulugan Falls. From a height of 72 metres, water cascades into the river in silvery sheets, churning up a dramatic spray that shrouds everything in a veil of mist (a waterproof camera is recommended). Most visitors travel from Manila to the trailhead in San Salvador, which takes around three hours. From there, it’s a 30-minute walk to the falls. Many travellers combine Hulugan with two other nearby waterfalls: Talay Falls and Hidden Falls, for a total one-way hike of one-and-a-half hours. Cool off on the way by swimming in the opalescent river, basking on the rocks and feeling the spray on your skin. Though not well-known internationally, the falls are locally popular; avoid crowds by visiting during the week.

3. Carbin Reef, Negros Occidental

Clownfish are among the vibrant marine life you can spot in Carbin Reef (Shutterstock)

International travellers on the Visayas tourist trail typically skip Negros Occidental, flying straight from Boracay to Cebu. That’s their loss – you’ll get those sugar-white beaches and marine sanctuaries to yourself. Popular among the local Negrense is Carbin Reef, a golden, S-shaped sandbar surrounded by an impossibly blue sea. Bring your snorkel – the reef around the sandbar is rich and unspoiled, abundant with clownfish, giant clams and much more. You’ll also need to bring food – there are shaded picnic tables on the sandbar, but no food vendors. Boats leave for the reef from the town of Sagay: a 90-minute drive (or three hours by bus) from Bacolod, the capital of Negros Occidental. Bacolod is the home of the famous Filipino dish, chicken inasal; as well as the riotous Masskara festival, which takes place every October. The San Sebastian Cathedral, built using coral stone from Guimaras Island, is also worth a look.

4. Hermit’s Cove, Cebu

Cliff houses on Hermit’s Cove (Cebu Provincial Tourism Office)

Some beaches are worth the journey – Hermit’s Cove is one of them. From Cebu City, head west across the island – 90 minutes by car or 2-3 hours by minibus – to the Farmhouse in the small town of Aloguinsan, where you’ll need to register as a visitor. Pick up Filipino street food from the carinderias (food stalls) at Aloguinsan Public Market, before catching a habal-habal (motorcycle) to the beach. There, you’ll see where Hermit’s Cove gets its name: the palm forest wraps around the beach, seeming to cut off the world around you. You’re not totally isolated, though: hire boats are available to take you to the reef, where you can snorkel among corals, anemones and sea turtles. On a clear day, you’ll see the indigo silhouette of the Mt Kanlaon volcano across the Tañon Strait. Combine a trip to Hermit’s Cove with a cruise along the nearby Bojo River, marvelling at the mangrove forests and diverse bird species.

5. Binurong Point, Catanduanes

The wild peninsula of Binurong Point (Shutterstock)

Bicol – a peninsula that juts south from the island of Luzon – is known for spectacle. The northeastern “amihan” trade winds and numerous volcanoes have carved up a thrilling landscape of jagged coastline, steep hills and deep, sandy coves. The island of Catanduanes is the epitome of Bicol drama, with several landmarks of note. The peaceful beaches of Virac province contrast with the sculptural formations of Luyang Cave – with its underground river – and the churning Maribina Falls. There are man-made wonders too: the Vatican-inspired Church of the Immaculate Conception in Virac, and the Bote Lighthouse in San Andres. But perhaps the most arresting view is the one from Binurong Point, where thundering waves crash against black cliffs and pillars of stone; behind you, green hills roll into the distance. It’s worth setting off early to catch the sunrise – and whatever you do, don’t forget your camera.

6. Cresta de Gallo, Romblon

The idyllic island of Cresta de Gallo (Shutterstock)

How far would you go for paradise? Cresta de Gallo – so called as its shape resembles a cockscomb – is two tiny islands connected by a brilliant sandbar, marooned in a sea so vivid that one YouTuber described it as ‘Gatorade blue’. The journey there is complex, requiring a flight to Tugdan airport on Tablas, a cross-island trip to San Agustin Port, then a ferry to Magdiwang Port on Sibuyan Island. From there, you’ll need to catch a jeepney to San Fernando, then charter a pump boat to take you to Cresta de Gallo. Got all that? Good – you’ll be rewarded by a truly pristine beach, a sunset shot through with pink and purple, and a reef where starfish and rays hide among the corals. Given how long it takes to get here, it’s best to combine Cresta de Gallo with a more thorough exploration of Tablas and Sibuyan islands.

Plan your adventure to the Philippines’ hidden corners

For more information, head to the official Philippines Travel website.

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Celebrate 50 years of adventure with Exodus https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/exodus-50-years/ Fri, 19 Apr 2024 13:54:59 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=71428 Do you know the ingredients that make up a once-in-a-lifetime adventure? With half a century of experience plotting extraordinary trips all across the world, Exodus does...

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Do you know the ingredients that make up a once-in-a-lifetime adventure? With half a century of experience plotting extraordinary trips all across the world, Exodus does…

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Celebrate 50 years of adventure with Exodus

Do you know the ingredients that make up a once-in-a-lifetime adventure? With half a century of experience plotting extraordinary trips all across the world, Exodus does…

Cycling across Vietnam, walking the Amalfi Coast, embarking on an Antarctic expedition… crafting incredible adventures is at the heart of Exodus’ ethos, and has been for the last five decades. Since February 1974, its experts have been taking intrepid travellers all around the globe, drawing on their own passion, unique experiences, and expertise to build itineraries that not only inspire, but educate too. Today, Exodus offers a staggering 500 trips across 90 countries and, as it gets set to mark its 50th anniversary, we couldn’t help but celebrate some of our favourites, diving into different cultures, foods, people, and landscapes. Plus, Exodus were crowned best tour operator in our Nature & Wildlife category at our Wanderlust Reader Travel Awards 2023, so you can’t get a much better accolade than that, can you?

What Exodus adventure will you choose?

Cultural escapes

Want to get under the skin of a country through its heritage wonders and local culture? Then these Exodus trips are for you…

Walking trips

Prefer to explore somewhere on two feet to soak it up at your own pace or want a wholesome hiking trip? Then walk this way…

Wildlife adventures

If you’re after epic wildlife encounters or are keen to get some first-hand experience in Europe’s rewilding projects, then check out these Exodus adventures…

Cycling getaways

Cycling offers the best of both worlds, where you can roam slowly but still feel totally immersed. These Exodus itineraries offer just that…

Premium retreats

Having an adventure doesn’t mean you have to short-change yourself on the accommodation. These Exodus trips prove just that…

Winter wonders

Winter is a season that offers a completely different travel experience in itself. Savour a different side with these snow-dusted trips…

Cultural escapes

Do you know how to spend the night like a Bedouin in Jordan or track down elephants, lions and more in Namibia’s Etosha National Park? Exodus does.

Spend a week in Jordan

With an abundance of extraordinary heritage wonders to discover, a week in Jordan promises a fascinating, action-packed adventure. You’ll explore this historic gem from the comfort of an air-conditioned bus – except when you’re embarking on an exhilarating 4×4 ride through UNESCO-listed Wadi Rum, that is. Wander the rock-cut city of Petra and its iconic pink sandstone, feel weightless when you take a dip in the Red Sea, spot myriad marine creatures, and embark on a guided tour of Jerash’s historic Roman streets. Our favourite moment, though, is a magical night spent under the stars, in a private Bedouin camp…

Spy the treasures of Sicily

The majesty of Mount Etna is undeniable. Spluttering plumes of smoke and molten lava flows on the regular, it’s no surprise that this is one of the most active volcanoes in Europe – not to mention the world. It makes sense too, that it is one of Sicily’s big draws and, on this itinerary, an excursion to this volatile beast is a real highlight. But there’s so much more to discover across the Italian isle. Local towns like Syracuse, Selinunte, and Agrigento, with their World Heritage status, ancient ruins and archaeological sites, all boast Greek, Phoenician, Roman, Arab, Norman, and Spanish influences.

Go wild in Namibia

Think Africa, and Namibia isn’t usually the first place that springs to mind. Indeed, this oft-overlooked country is ripe for adventures of all varieties, which this itinerary demonstrates. Wildlife lovers can search for elephants, lions and even rhinos with two days in Etosha National Park, while budding photographers should have their cameras at the ready for Namib-Naukluft Park, one of the oldest and driest deserts on the planet. The culture is perhaps the most interesting part of Namibia though. Visit Swakopmund, a quirky German colonial town, and take in Brandberg’s White Lady Painting – believed to have been created by hunter-gatherers 2,000 years ago.

Walking trips

Know how to summit Africa’s highest peak or tread along the rugged fringes of the Amalfi Coast? Exodus does.

Climb Kilimanjaro

Often viewed as the easiest of the seven summits, tackling Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro is popular with experienced and first-time climbers alike. But don’t be fooled: this is still one of the biggest, most gruelling feats many will ever face. What better way to experience this unique trek then, than by taking the lesser-trod Lemosho Route? With guides and porters leading the way, you’ll spend eight days taking the western approach to the ‘roof of Africa’, gradually acclimatising as you cross the Shira Volcano and its vast, wild plateau, stepping beneath the southern icefields of the Kibo Volcano – Kili’s highest.

Walking the Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast promises a truly special combo: epic walks – taking in rugged coastlines punctuated by idyllic towns – and world-renowned Italian fare. Inhale the heady aroma of abundant lemon groves as you traverse ancient hillsides, around deep gorges, and into the charming likes of Positano, Ravello, and Amalfi itself. Best of all, Exodus has been running this tour for over 20 years, which means that, when you stop for a rest, your guide will know the very best spots for a tipple and some seafood. We especially love this trip as it’s rounded off with a visit to historic Pompeii.

Trek the Camino de Santiago

If you’re an avid hiker, no doubt you will already have heard of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. Doing it with Exodus though, is an altogether different experience. First off, your guide will be local, knowing the best history and most enchanting photo stops to help you really experience this ancient pilgrimage. Secondly – and arguably most importantly – you will have the opportunity to balance exercise with indulgence by trying some of the region’s best cuisine. From Galician tapas to fluffy Santiago cake, you’ll head for traditional eateries, where you’ll also meet the locals who make this route so enthralling.

Wildlife adventures

Do you know how to spot elusive hippos in Botswana’s Chobe National Park, or what it takes to rewild one of Italy’s most precious natural corners? Exodus does.

Immerse yourself in the wildlife and wildernesses of Botswana

Whether you want to see big wildlife, drift along the Okavango Delta, or gaze up at some of the darkest skies on Earth – this itinerary has you covered. Game viewing here can be done on foot, 4X4 or boat, and you’ll do all three in search of elephants, giraffe, buffalo and hippos across Chobe National Park, Savuti Marsh, and Moremi Game Reserve. You’ll even wild camp amid the African bush, sampling delicious food and equally delectable sunsets and sunrises. Speaking of sunsets, they don’t get much better than at Makgadikgadi Salt Pan – the last stop before heading to Zimbabwe for the mighty Victoria Falls.

Spot tigers on safari in India

If seeing a tiger in the wild is high on your bucket list, this trip delivers a raft of opportunities. Indeed, you’ll embark on a whopping 15 game drives while visiting three of the best tiger parks in India: Pench, Bandhavgarh and Kanha. These national parks are all home to the fiercely impressive Bengal tiger, not to mention its prey. All you need to worry about is making sure you don’t forget your camera, or your specs. Finish your trip with a jaunt to Delhi and Agra, visiting Agra Fort and, of course, the Taj Mahal – it would be rude not to!

Help with rewilding the Apennines

As part of Exodus’ commitment to a sustainable future, it has partnered with Rewilding Europe, promising to rewild 100sqm of land for every one of its travellers. One such project is Rewilding Apennines, the impact of which you will witness first-hand on this six-day itinerary. Your skilled nature guide will take you through abundant landscapes and wildlife corridors – home to deer, wolves, golden eagles and even the elusive Marsican brown bear – so you can better understand the crucial connection between local communities and their ecosystems. Fueled by Italian food and wine, this makes for a genuinely rewarding trip.

Cycling getaways

Do you know how to see the best of a country on two wheels, where you can pedal past the likes of ancient Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka or how to cycle between both coastlines in Costa Rica? Exodus does.

Cycle the backroads of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is blissfully compact, making it a great country to explore on two wheels. Ride to the likes of Dambulla Cave Temple, Polonnaruwa, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya and Ella, meeting the friendly locals and keeping your eyes peeled for wildlife and avifauna. Along the way you’ll safari in Yala National Park – an enclave for leopards, elephants and sloth bears – sample Sri Lankan tea and spices, and climb the iconic Sigiriya Rock. This itinerary has been made extra-special for Exodus’ birthday too, with select departures featuring a boat trip on Koggala Lake, followed by cocktails and canapés on the beach – bliss!

Go coast to coast in Costa Rica

Ah, pura vida! What’s not to love about the relaxed, Costa Rican way of life? And on this cross-country itinerary, you’ll quickly see why the locals here are so laid-back. There’s the mesmerising howler monkeys and three-toed sloths that frequent the waterways around Tortuguero National Park, the bats and snakes that hide amid the trees in Manuel Antonio, and of course the ever-changing tropical scenery – from volcanoes, rainforest, and plantations inland, to the enchanting Pacific coastline. Don’t expect to get fit on this trip though; with wildlife at pretty much every turn, you’ll probably be too distracted to pedal full speed!

Explore Greece by bike

Hop in the saddle in Greece, and you’ll certainly have the chance to experience way more of its abundant historical treasures than you would by car. Better yet, you’ll get to immerse yourself in all the bits in between too – think vast vineyards and olive groves, with undulating landscapes and an azure sea as the backdrop. This itinerary will guide you through the Peloponnese region, starting (and finishing) in lively Athens, cycling around Poros Island before heading onto Galatas, Tolo, Nafplio and wine-making Nemea. Conclude the trip with a guided tour of the Acropolis of Athens and its remarkable Parthenon. 

Premium retreats

Know how to pair eye-popping landscapes like Portugal’s Atlantic Coast, Cape Town and the Italian Dolomites with just-as-dreamy accommodation? Exodus does.

Spy Peru’s greatest hits

Prepare to soak up Peru’s landscapes, culture and people at their diverse best on this comprehensive Exodus adventure. Stay for two nights deep in the Peruvian Amazon, trace a one-day slice of the legendary Inca Trail, explore the ancient Inca cities of Cusco and Arequipa and lift the lid on the traditional island communities that float on Lake Titicaca. Along every step of the way, you’ll stay in premium yet local accommodation to only add to your immersion in this country. This is a trip that leaves no stone unturned in Peru…

Explore Cape Town and the Garden Route

They say, ‘start as you mean to go on’, and this itinerary really delivers on that adage. It begins with two nights at the world-class Amakhala Safari Lodge – complete with just 11 luxury suites, private plunge pools and vast lounge areas. Perfect really, as you’ll be well-rested for those early-morning game drives! From here, discover the World Heritage-lauded Robberg Nature Reserve, sip award-winning wines in Stellenbosch, spot the 2-3,000 African penguins at Boulders Beach, and explore Cape Town and its landmark Table Mountain-backed skyline. Best of all, you’ll be staying in premium accommodation for nine out of 11 nights.

See the Dolomites on foot

The Dolomites are known for their incredible walks, rewarding hikers with landscapes that are equal parts imposing and enticing. From the high-altitude village of Villabassa, in northern Italy’s South Tyrol region, you’ll discover the pretty Braies Valley and its mirror-like lake, wander the ridges of Kreutzberg Pass, summit 2,310m Strudlekopf and flat-topped Monte Piana, and stroll the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. For the week-long duration of your trip, Hotel Adler will be your lavish home-from-home. Its 400-year-old walls fuse those misty, Dolomite views with classic Tyrolean pride and heritage, not to mention offering a modern, yet authentically Alps, spa.

Winter wonders

Do you know how to explore Finland’s remote white wildernesses or want to see more of wintry Transylvania than just Count Dracula himself? Exodus does.

Spend a week in the Finnish wilderness

This trip to Oulanka National Park is the embodiment of winter. Staying in the self-contained Basecamp Oulanka, you’ll experience this off-grid, powder-rich region by snowshoe, ski and dogsled. Discover the remote white wilderness of Riisitunturi National Park, head out after dark in search of the Northern Lights’ twirling ribbons, and spend a day at the popular Ruka ski resort. You’ll even learn essential wilderness skills in the form of fire-making and quinzee (snow shelter) building. And, as part of Exodus’ 50th birthday celebrations, select departures will feature a Finnish winter sauna experience, as well as a special edition kitbag!

Walk a wintry Transylvania

Transylvania: a land of folklore, mystery, and bygone style… or so the rumours say. And that isn’t too far from the truth – minus that famous vampire, anyway. Farmsteads, woodlands, and pretty villages pock this staunchly traditional corner of Europe and, when blanketed in snow, it’s easy to see how this is a region that’s inspired many a work of fiction. Spend your days hiking and snowshoeing, visiting local villages, meeting communities that live a humble lifestyle, and tracking wolf and bear prints through the fresh powder. No visit would be complete without a trip to Bran Castle, Count Dracula’s home.

Have an aurora adventure in the Arctic Circle

Winter is more than just a season: it’s a culture. That is particularly true for the people of Sapmi, also known as Lapland. But we’re not talking about reindeers and family trips to see Santa. This is a place where nature is at its most raw, and on this itinerary you’ll get to see that first-hand, through the eyes of the locals. Staying on Muonionalusta island – home to just seven inhabitants – you’ll be hosted by the Malmström family, who will spend the week teaching you about Sami culture and immersing you in nature, from sledding and snow-showing to hunting the aurora.

Feeling inspired?

This is just the start of Exodus’ trip inspiration. They’ve been crafting incredible adventures for 50 years and there are few better to help you plan a memorable trip in 2024 and beyond. Help Exodus celebrate its 50th anniversary the right way by booking a trip with them today.

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Adventures await in https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/trips-for-2023-exodus/ Fri, 19 Apr 2024 13:53:18 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=71427 2023...

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2023…

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Adventures await in

2023…

Travel gives us so much. It allows us to witness spectacular new sights and experience unique cultures that are completely different to our own. It challenges us and it moves us – often in more ways than one. And on our return, we’re left richer, wiser and bursting with fascinating stories to tell. Start planning your 2023 travel experiences now with the help of Exodus Travels. Here’s what to expect…

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN YOUR SURROUNDINGS

Immerse yourself in your surroundings (Exodus)

Immerse yourself in your surroundings (Exodus)

India Tiger Safari (Exodus)

India Tiger Safari (Exodus)

Discover Namibia (Exodus)

Discover Namibia (Exodus)

Chimps and Gorillas of Uganda (Exodus)

Chimps and Gorillas of Uganda (Exodus)

We no longer want to just ‘visit’ somewhere; we want to experience it in 360 vivid degrees. We want to live it, breathe it and fully participate in the culture and the landscape. Here are just some of the Exodus itineraries that allow you to do just that…

Indian Tiger Safari

With their fiery stripes and intense glare, you will never forget the first time you see a Bengal tiger in the wild. As the predators are so rare, it’s a real pinch-me moment, and you will rightfully feel very lucky if you get to catch glimpses of these incredibly elusive creatures . Go with Exodus and your chances of seeing the intoxicating animal will be greatly increased as you will visit three of India’s best national parks for spotting tigers. On the India Tiger Safari tour, you will enjoy a total of 15 game drives in Pench, Kanha and Bandhavgarh national parks. As well as Bengal tigers, the parks are all home to a huge number of fascinating  wildlife, so your days will be filled with viewing the likes of monkeys, deer, leopards, wild pigs and a rainbow-spectrum of birdlife.

Discover Namibia – Camping

You could explore the alien-like landscapes of Namibia on the Discover Namibia: Camping trip. You’ll experience lunar-like surfaces at Sesriem, Martian-red sand dunes at Sossusvlei and the mixed forest and grassland of Etosha Park. Along the way you’re likely to spot desert-adapted animals, including elephants, giraffes and cheetahs.

Chimps and Gorillas of Uganda 

Uganda is another place that’s simply bursting with wildlife and is home to more than 1,000 types of birds and more than 300 mammal species. Perhaps the most popular of them all is the mountain gorillas, and where better to see them than in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest? On Exodus’ Chimps & Gorillas of Uganda trip, you will have a chance to trek in the forest and see the gorillas for yourself. There will also be time to seek out Uganda’s chimps with a visit Kibale Forest. And as if that wasn’t enough wildlife for one trip, you’ll also explore Queen Elizabeth National Park which is home to hippos, elephants, buffalo, leopards and tree-climbing lions. 

“I’m one of very few people that has been lucky enough to spend time with all five of the BBC’s ‘Dynasty’ luminaries. Several chimp safaris, literally years with lions, expeditions to spot emperor penguins and wild painted dogs sightings throughout Africa. Chimps in their natural habitat – in terms of character, they are probably the most similar to humans which, although it’s not always a good thing by any means, it does make them fascinating to view, as some of their habits are identical. Kibale forest would be my choice of destination for them in Uganda and why not pair this experience  with a visit to their bigger cousins: gorillas?”
Paul Goldstein, Exodus Travels Expert Leader and award-winning photographer

GET OUT OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE

If you want to savour a memory forever, link it to an adrenaline rush; studies show that experiences which make you feel excited, stimulated, or even scared are more easily remembered. You don’t even have to brave a bungee jump, there are plenty of other ways to get your heart beating…

Walking the Picos de Europa

Craggy limestone mountains, cloud-encircled peaks, rushing streams and lush valleys are what define the Picos de Europa, Spain’s third-highest mountain range. But you don’t get to enjoy these lofty views without a little bit of hard work. On Exodus’ Walking the Picos de Europa trip, you will have a chance to put your legs to the test as you embark on an eight-day hiking holiday in this mountain range. You will spend your days walking in and around Spain’s oldest national park and through the traditional mountain villages of the valleys with sightings of wildlife including chamois, golden eagles and griffon vultures along the way. It’s not all hard work though, and you will enjoy some well-deserved rest and panoramic views from the Hotel Torrecerredo each evening.

Atlas Descent

If you prefer to explore on two wheels, then head to North Africa on the Atlas Decent trip with Exodus. The region is home to some of the finest mountain biking trails that the world has to offer, with fast single tracks, ancient hairpin muleteer’s routes and rocky jeep tracks all on the cards. This trip isn’t just about the thrill of the ride though, as you’ll have plenty of time to go off the beaten track to see places untouched by tourism, interact with the locals and meet some of the indigenous Berber people who call this area home. 

Everest Base Camp Trek

Perhaps the world’s most iconic thrilling adventure, it doesn’t get much more challenging than an Everest Base Camp Trek. On a trip with Exodus, you will benefit from having real mountaineering experts by your side who can give you the support and advice you will need to complete the trek. Walking through Sherpa county past small villages, there will be time to acclimatise before reaching the dizzying heights of the monastery and views of Thyangboche. The highlight of the trip will be scaling Kala Pattar (5,545m) from where you can enjoy an uninterrupted view of the planet’s highest mountain. 

Walking the Picos de Europa (Exodus)

Walking the Picos de Europa (Exodus)

“I started working for Exodus in 1986 leading treks in Kashmir, Ladakh and Nepal. I love exploring new areas especially remote, off the beaten track routes. My favourite areas are the Everest region of Nepal and Ladakh – I have led the ascent of Stok Kangri more than 20 times and I have spent at least 14 Christmas days trekking to Everest Base Camp. In 2009 (for my 50th birthday present to myself!) I attempted to summit Everest and despite running out of oxygen and getting frostbite I got to the South Summit at 8,761m.” 
Valerie Parkinson, Exodus Travels Expert Leader and winner of Wanderlust World Guide in 2021

NEW DISCOVERIES

New Discoveries (Exodus)

New Discoveries (Exodus)

Ancient & Modern Japan (Exodus)

Ancient & Modern Japan (Exodus)

A taste of Cuba (Shutterstock)

A taste of Cuba (Shutterstock)

Essential Peru (Shutterstock)

Essential Peru (Shutterstock)

It’s always good to try and learn as much as you can about the countries you visit; it puts their history and geography into context and perspective, and leaves you smarter, wiser and, dare we say it, more interesting at dinner parties. These three Exodus itineraries give you a chance to really get to know the places that you visit…

Ancient & Modern Japan

On Exodus’ Ancient and Modern Japan tour, you’ll discover a land where peaceful forests, serene shrines and elaborate castles exist side by side with neon shopping malls, high-speed shinkansen trains and pachinko parlours. Learn about Japanese history and culture, experience elegant tea ceremonies and soak in an onsen – Japan’s famous hot springs. 

A Taste of Cuba

Try a little Caribbean flavour in Cuba on Exodus’ A Taste of Cuba tour, where you’ll visit the Viñales Valley, Old Havana and the colourful colonial towns of Cienfuegos and Trinidad. You’ll find fresh fish and seafood – try mahi mahi with criolla sauce (made with chopped tomato, onions, vinegar, pepper and herbs). It’s also known for ropa vieja – boiled, shredded beef slow-cooked with tomatoes, onions, garlic and red peppers – and the epic Cuban sandwich, a multi-layered affair stuffed with ham, pork, Swiss cheese and pickled cucumber.

Essential Peru

Journeying through the landscapes of Peru is like journeying through time and there is so much history and culture to take in along the way. On Exodus’ Essential Peru trip, you will discover the highlights of southern Peru, from Nazca to Arequipa. With expert guides leading the way, you will gain a deeper understanding of the sights you will see such as the mysterious Nazca Lines, Lake Titicaca, Colca Canyon, and of course the iconic Machu Picchu. 

MAKE NEW FRIENDS FOR LIFE

Make new friends for life (Exodus)

Make new friends for life (Exodus)

If travel broadens the mind, it can also broaden your social circle. Travelling as part of a small group with like-minded people can often lead to new friendships. Feedback from Exodus travellers has been immeasurably positive on this front: spending time with the same people and sharing new and unique experiences can be incredibly bonding, creating memories and friendships for life…

Highlights of the Amalfi Coast

You’ll certainly want one of your companions to take the best pictures of you along the photogenic Amalfi Coast, with the colourful small towns of Positano, Ravello and Sorrento as your backdrop. Keeping in touch afterwards, and even meeting up again, is an added bonus.

Mt Toubkal Climb

Join Exodus and a group of like-minded individuals on a trek to the summit of North Africa’s highest mountain, Mount Toubkal (4,167m). Located 80km south of Marrakech, ascending the tallest peak in the Atlas mountains involves hiking through small Berber villages, threading picturesque valleys and passing scenery such as the Ighoulidem waterfall. The ascent itself offers scenic views across to Marrakesh, where you’ll end your trip with new memories and new friends.

Walking in North Cyprus

This lesser-visited part of the Mediterranean is home to an abundance of archaeological remains as well as footpaths that thread you past flowers, wildlife and craggy coastal views. Join the Walking in North Cyprus Exodus tour and you will enjoy a week in this beautiful part of the world with other walkers who you can get to know better with every step along the way. 

Highlights of the Amalfi Coast (Shutterstock)

Highlights of the Amalfi Coast (Shutterstock)

Mt Toubkal Climb (Exodus)

Mt Toubkal Climb (Exodus)

Walking in North Cyprus (Shutterstock)

Walking in North Cyprus (Shutterstock)

“I went on my first-ever walking holiday to Cyprus with Exodus in October 2022. I was really nervous as I was also sharing a room but it turned out that  my roommate and I clicked straight away. She made me laugh every day and we were always looking out for each other during the week. Another person I got very close to was Kim, a lovely lady from Oxford. The three of us were very similar in character and had the same sense of humour. We even met up in London recently and have even talked about going on an Exodus trip together in the future.”
Ilenia Barausse, Exodus Travels Travel Expert

EXPERIENCE THE UNDISCOVERED WITH EXPERT LEADERS

Experience the undiscovered with expert leaders (Exodus)

Experience the undiscovered with expert leaders (Exodus)

Experience the undiscovered with expert leaders (Exodus)

Experience the undiscovered with expert leaders (Exodus)

Icefields Parkway (Shutterstock)

Icefields Parkway (Shutterstock)

One advantage of travelling on an Exodus trip is that you are in the hands of experts. From the person who put the itinerary together to those on the ground guiding you through the various experiences, you can be sure they know their stuff…

Cycling Vietnam 

Why not discover Vietnam as the locals do: by bicycle? Join Exodus’ Cycling Vietnam trip and you will be able to do just that. You will embark on a fascinating route from vibrant Ho Chi Minh city in the south to the buzzing capital, Hanoi, in the north. Along the way, you will pass through characterful fishing villages, emerald green rice terraces and jungle-cloaked mountains. And with a local leader by your side, you will be best placed to soak up all the sights – big and small – along the way. 

Canadian Rockies Wilderness Walks 

If there is one thing the Canadian Rockies has in abundance it is space. Its vast network of waking trails vein their way through some of the world’s best national parks, through virgin forests, past lakes, over rushing rivers and above deep canyons. Although undeniably spectacular, it can be hard to know where to start when faced with such an expanse of wilderness. That’s why it pays to go with the experts, and on Exodus’ Canadian Rockies Wilderness Walks, you will have the knowledge and help of an expert guide who will lead you on hikes past the most epic scenery and will know the best places to spot the likes of bears, eagles, deer and moose.

Kilimanjaro Climb – Lemosho Route

Making it to the top of Kilimanjaro takes preparation, perseverance, strength, and perhaps most of all, the encouragement of a local guide. On Exodus’s Kilimanjaro Climb – Lemosho Route tour, an expert leader will be by your side the whole time as you take the much less-trodden route to the well-known peak. Trekking over eight days, you will be given plenty of time to not just acclimatise but to also take in the spectacular scenery all around. When the going gets tough, the support increases and by summit day, there will be one guide for every two people. And that support pays off, as around 96% of people who take on the Lemosho route with Exodus succeed in standing on the roof of Africa.

“With altitude, temperatures of -16 degrees, fatigue, and a seemingly relentless zig-zag of headtorches for 1,000m of ascent, it takes all the grit you can muster to stand atop Uhuru Peak. You put both your safety and sanity in the hands of the experts leading you to the top and that’s exactly why you want to be walking beside the very best in the business. We were lucky enough to be guided by two Mountain Lionesses and graduates of the Mountain Lioness Scholarship, an initiative that supports local women to increase their earning potential by sponsoring their training to become fully qualified Mountain Guides on Mt Kilimanjaro. It was an honour to walk beside such strong women and if it wasn’t for their constant encouragement, support and attentiveness, we simply wouldn’t have made it to the top. Watching the sunrise over the Savannah nearly 6,000m below you is a sight you won’t forget in a hurry, the sense of achievement matched only by the gratitude you have for those who got you there.”
Jess Dillon, Exodus Travels Travel Expert

ACTIVATE THE SENSES

No journey would be complete without tasting all that a destination has to offer; there is plenty of fun to be had by sampling food you’ve never tried before…

Mountains & Villages of Evia

A visit to the island of Evia with Exodus gives you the chance to discover Greece at its most authentic. You’ll walk along dramatic coastlines and visit remote villages. You will relax on secluded sands and swim in warm Aegean waters. But what is bound to excite you most each day is the meal times. Traditional tavernas and waterfront ouzo-meze shops will entice you in with their sea views and mouth-watering smells as you sit down to tuck into Greek specialities such as Greek salad smothered in olive oil, warm bread dunked in fava bean dip and houmous, and platters of grilled seafood, plucked from the water that same day. 

Cape Town & The Garden Route

Over in South Africa, on Exodus’ Cape Town and the Garden Route trip, you’ll find local dishes with African, Dutch, French and Malay roots. Sample boerewors (a rich, delicious sausage), bobotie (an aromatic dish of curried ground beef with fruit and a creamy, egg-based topping), bunny chow (a hollowed-out loaf filled with curry) or koeksisters (a moreish, sweet, sticky doughnut).

Puglia: Discover the Heel of Italy

With its Mediterranean coastline, rolling farmland and traditional methods, it should come as no surprise that Puglia offers such fine food. On Exodus’s Puglia: Discover the Heel of Italy trip, spend your days discovering the region’s art, architecture and intriguing towns such as Matera, Otranto and Lecce, before tucking into the region’s local cuisine. Regional wines, olive oil, fresh pasta and seafood will all be on the menu, and you’ll even have a chance to get hands-on with a cookery course in a traditional Masseria in Ostuni. 

Mountains & Villages of Evia (Shutterstock)

Mountains & Villages of Evia (Shutterstock)

Cape Town & The Garden Route (Shutterstock)

Cape Town & The Garden Route (Shutterstock)

Puglia: Discover the Heel of Italy (Shutterstock)

Puglia: Discover the Heel of Italy (Shutterstock)

“There are few better ways to get to know a culture than by trying its food and drink. Meals are such a key part of many cultures, what you eat and when you eat it are fundamental aspects of societies all over the world. Italy is rightly famous for its food, however each region will tell you it is only they that serve true Italian cuisine – from orecchiette pasta in Puglia in the south to more hearty dumplings in the north near the Austrian border.”
Tom Wilkinson, Exodus Travels Travel Expert

Exodus Travels: Your guide to the world

Exodus are the experts in adventure travel. The company has picked up numerous awards, including Best Tour Operator at the British Travel Awards, and has been named as a Which? recommended provider for seven years running. Its experts know that life-enriching, horizon-expanding adventure travels don’t just happen by themselves: they take exceptional planning, first-class organisation and insider knowledge of unique places, peoples and cultures. Exodus are extremely proud of the incredible experiences it has created across the world and the lengths it goes to in order to protect the planet and support the local people it meets. So this year, why not join Exodus on their award-winning adventures?

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Responsible Thailand Awards 2023 https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/thailand-awards-results/ Fri, 19 Apr 2024 12:44:33 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=71263 The results

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The results

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Responsible Thailand Awards 2023

The results

The annual Responsible Thailand Awards shine a light on the organisations and businesses going above and beyond to ensure travellers have responsible and sustainable experiences that make a difference in Thailand.
As always, this year there was tough competition but thanks to our judges’ thoughtful consideration, we’re proud to announce the winners of the 2023 Responsible Thailand Awards. So, without further ado…

To find out more about Thailand’s responsible, sustainable and community-based initiatives, head to ResponsibleThailand.co.uk

The Winners

ANIMAL WELFARE

Winner: Mahouts Elephant Foundation

Mahouts Elephant Foundation is a charity creating ethical and sustainable partnerships with Karen indigenous communities in northern Thailand. The foundation protects Asian elephants, the communities surrounding them and the forest they depend on. The foundation’s work enables the elephants to live in peace and dignity.

Judges’ comments: An exemplary project caring for and rewilding elephants that have been exposed to cruel practices. An exceptional coming together of welfare for rescued elephants, benefit to the Karen community, and instructive tourism.

Watch our video below, where Wanderlust’s Lyn Hughes speaks to Sarah Blaine from the Mahouts Elephant Foundation.

NATURE, MARINE & HERITAGE

Winner: New Heaven Reef Conservation Program

The New Heaven Reef Conservation Program protects and restores beautiful coral reef ecosystems around the island of Koh Tao, raising awareness and educating both tourists and locals about marine conservation and the plight of our planet’s most biodiverse and fragile spaces.

Judges’ comments: New Heaven’s diving courses, focusing on conserving coral reefs, are making a crucial contribution to protecting Thailand’s marine life. Education is the key to safeguarding vulnerable environments, which is why New Heaven Reef Conservation’s work is vital.

Watch our video below, where Wanderlust’s Lyn Hughes speaks to Kirsty Magson from the New Heaven Reef Conservation Program.

COMMUNITY-BASED TOURISM

Winner: Kao Tep Pitak Community Restaurant

The Kao Tep Pitak community, based in Ban Kao Thep Pitak, Suratthani runs a communityled ecotourism enterprise providing homestays, meals and tours. It’s located next to a beautiful suspension bridge with a clear view of a heart-shaped mountain. The tourism programme engages all members of the community and provides a new income source while also promoting local entrepreneurs.

Judges’ comments: Far more than a restaurant, this project is deeply rooted in the community it serves by offering responsible and enlightening tourist experiences.

Watch our video below, where Wanderlust’s Lyn Hughes speaks to Selene Orellana from Planeterra, a non-governmental organisation that helps support local projects like the Kao Tep Pitak Community Restaurant.

HOTEL

Winner: Devasom Khao Lak Beach

Devasom Khao Lak Resort is a small luxury resort by the Andaman Sea in Khao Lak. Paying homage to the opulence of the Asian maritime Silk Road during the 6th and 7th centuries, the resort’s intricate design is based on the archaic art and architecture of a lost civilisation that once resided here.

Judges’ comments: This resort admirably tackles the many issues which can arise in the hotel industry – both environmental and social – to rise above other worthy nominees in a strong category. It’s inspiring to see a resort so dedicated to its local area – especially in areas of educational uplift and employment.

Watch our video below, where Wanderlust’s Lyn Hughes speaks to Bon Atirak, co-owner of Devasom Khao Lak Beach.

ECOLODGE

Winner: Elephant Hills

Elephant Hills is a luxury tented jungle camp that also offers soft-adventure excursions. The camp is based in the tropical evergreen forest of Khao Sok National Park and comprises luxurious glamping tents made from waterproof canvas, which are fully equipped to provide a comfortable jungle stay.

Judges’ comments: Bridging the connection between its guests, the surrounding environment and wildlife in need, Elephant Hills does an outstanding job in its contribution to responsible travel.

GREEN STEPS

Winner: Pattaya Elephant Sanctuary

Pattaya Elephant Sanctuary provides a caring home for once mistreated elephants. The sanctuary adheres to an ethical model, limiting interaction with people, as well as a range of other measures. This allows the elephants to express their natural behaviours, including foraging in the jungle and interacting with one another.

Judges’ comments: Renu’s courage and will to protect abused elephants has led to this wonderful and necessary sanctuary that shows a better way to treat elephants in the name of tourism. There isn’t a more deserving initiative to win this award – she’s an inspiration to us all.

How the winners are chosen

We asked Wanderlust readers and the UK travel trade to nominate the Thailand-based organisations that they felt deserved recognition for their responsible initiatives and ongoing commitment to sustainable travel. The criteria for judging included the sustainability for each organisation, their demonstrable successes, and the legacy benefits for both Thailand and international visitors.

To find out more about Thailand’s responsible, sustainable and community-based initiatives, head to ResponsibleThailand.co.uk

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An expert guide to Tasmania https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/guide-to-tasmania/ Fri, 19 Apr 2024 12:24:04 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=71188 View the story Explore the capitalSee the island’s heritageExplore its wild cornersTasmania stays An expert guide to Tasmania By Rachel…

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An expert guide to Tasmania

Tasmania is Australia’s best-kept secret, packed with a tapestry on untreaded landscapes, unique wildlife and an unsung food scene that rivals anything else found across the country…

Strewn across the Bass Strait, Tasmania sits happily separate from the mainland. It’s often overlooked by people taking a trip Down Under, but those in the know are quite happy about that.

The easy-going island state is easy to get to and explore with plenty of remote and wild corners to escape into. From vast tangles of temperate rainforest and dramatic seascapes to its distinct flora and fauna and flourishing food scene, Audley has the inside track on this bountiful isle and how best to uncover its secrets. 

Explore the capital

Sat on the shores of the Derwent Estuary by the foothills of Mount Wellington/kunanyi, Hobart is slight but big on sights. As the second oldest Australian city, it’s also rich in history. Traditional land of the mouheneenner people, its European roots began in 1804. Stories of its colourful convict and whaling days rattle around its cobbled streets and wharves. Once notoriously rough-and-ready, its waterfront is now a hub of hip hotels, boutiques and places to eat (something Hobart excels in). Tasmania’s capital has a thriving arts scene too with Mona at its epicentre. Add to that its proximity to wild coasts and native forests and it’s an all-round southern charmer.

Savour its food scene

Seafood, cheeses, orchard fruits and vines that produce world-class cool-climate wines, Tasmania has some incredible produce. See its bounty of seasonal, organic goodies at Hobart’s Farm Gate market. Held every Sunday, it’s the largest farmers’ market in the state. Creative chefs make good use of the local larder in an abundance of cool cafés, historic pubs and fine dining restaurants. Sip sparkling wine from the Derwent with freshly shucked oysters from Barilla Bay in waterfront restaurants and marvel at modern Tasmanian cuisine in North Hobart, home to some of the hottest dining venues. But whatever you eat, don’t miss a scallop pie. This quintessential Tassie treat dates back to its earliest days of European settlement.

Soak up harbourfront heritage

The best place to get a feel for the capital’s heritage and character is around its waterfront, where its story began. Sullivan’s Cove is the heart of historic Hobart, with its old sandstone warehouses and jetties now filled with places to eat, shop, stay and ogle art. Cobbled Salamanca Place, lined with gorgeous Georgian architecture, is a scenic place for a saunter – don’t miss Saturday’s excellent markets. From here, old Kelly’s Steps lead up to Battery Point, the oldest part of town, so-called for the gun batteries that once protected the port. Today it charms with its colourful weatherboard workers’ cottages, grand merchant houses (some now museums charting early colonial life) and historic parks.

Go wild in Mount Wellington/kunanyi

Rearing up behind the city, the brooding form of Mount Wellington/kunanyi beckons for leg-stretching walks and soul-stirring views over Hobart. You can see across the D’Entrecasteux Channel to Bruny Island on clear days. Just 20 minutes’ drive from the CBD, its quiet trails lead through mossy fern gullies, temperate rainforest and dry eucalypt woodland. Head up high on foot or by car to the open viewing platform and covered observation shelter at the summit, which is often snow-capped. The peak, which rises to 1,270m and has distinctive dolerite columns, is part of the Wellington Range. It holds far-reaching cultural significance to the palawa people of lutruwita, the traditional owners.

Away from the city

From fishing and sailing to pleasure boating, Hobart is a hive of maritime activity. Paddle out by kayak from Constitution Dock to Battery Point to see the skyline from the water. The Huon River is fantastic for kayaking too, from the bucolic scenery of the Huon Valley to calm Recherche Bay. Wilderness cruises circumnavigate Bruny Island (all soaring cliffs, deep caves and sea stacks), home to fur seals and seabirds. In Wellington Park, the Organ Pipes Circuit Track takes walkers beneath the peak’s soaring dolerite columns. Mountain biking is big here too. Or you can amble among ancient ferns and giant swamp gums en route to waterfalls in Mount Field National Park.

See the island’s heritage

Separated from the mainland by the Bass Strait, Tasmania is distinct from the rest of Australia in many ways, from its temperate climate and landscapes to its food and curious wildlife. As one of the earliest colonial settlements, the island brims with heritage sites from melancholy convict ruins and Aboriginal cultural sites to old mining towns and cities full of historic architecture. Tasmania, where the worst offenders were transported, has five of the 11 convict sites in Australia with UNESCO World Heritage status. Its many museums and heritage sites tell of the island’s settlement history and don’t shy away from the horrors inflicted on the palawa (Tasmanian Aboriginals).

Launceston

Tassie’s second biggest city, Launceston lies in the north on the banks of the Tamar River. Well preserved colonial-era architecture and manicured parks make it a charming city to explore on foot. You’re never far from pristine bushland. An easy walk from the centre, Cataract’s Gorge is a deep chasm carved by the Esk River. Trails lead around it and gum forests, home to pademelons and possums. Don’t miss a ride on its historic chairlift. Edging the fertile Tamar Valley, Launceston is also an epicurean’s delight with a celebrated dining scene and the excellent Harvest Market.

Key experience: Wine tour of the Tamar Valley

Join a private tour to the island’s oldest wine growing region to swirl and sip your way through a series of spectacular cool-climate wines at cellar doors, matched with platters of local produce. It’s not only the region’s pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling that sing, the scenery is simply gorgeous.

Port Arthur

Set on a rugged part of the Tasman Peninsula, just an hour’s drive from Hobart, the lonely ruins of Port Arthur by the water’s edge are a melancholy sight. Dating back to the 1830s, it’s the island’s largest and best preserved penal site. Join a tour to hear the tragic stories of those interred here and walk in their footsteps around the cells, refectory and chapel. Just across the water lies the burial island where many poor souls were buried.

Key experience: Devils, History and Hiking day tour

Immerse yourself in the desolate beauty of this part of southeast Tasmania and stories of its brutal past on the Devils, History and Hiking tour. As well as taking a tour of the haunting heritage site, you’ll stop off to revel in edge-of-the-world seascapes and hike to spot native wildlife.

Strahan and Gordon River

Head to the wild west coast and Strahan, a characterful old timber town set on Macquarie Harbour. Take the Strahan Historic Foreshore Walk to get your bearings on the town and the history of the convicts and hardy early settlers that forged an existence here. Its sweeping sand-dune backed beaches are ideal for solitary strolls and sunset watching. While cruises will take you upriver into the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park to walk among the ancient rainforest and spot waterfalls.

Key experience: Gordon River Cruise

You can’t visit Strahan without taking a Gordon River Cruise – leaving from the town’s wharf, you’ll pass through the notorious Hells Gates into the harbour before winding along the Gordon River. You’ll venture by foot into temperate rainforests before stopping off to see the spooky ruins of Sarah Island, a remote islet steeped in stories of the area’s convict past.

Explore its wild corners

Nature rules in this island state, with over a third protected by national parks and reserves. It’s easy to step off the beaten track here with landscapes that range from alpine moors, snow-capped mountains and unfathomably old forests to wild rivers and highland lakes. Then there are its long sweeping (and very often deserted) beaches, off-lying isles and jagged geological formations. Within these enchanting landscapes live an array of creatures from wallabies and wombats to web-footed platypus and whales. You’re never far from untouched wilderness on this extraordinary isle and Audley tailors itineraries to immerse you in it.

Maria Island National Park

Former penal colony turned wildlife sanctuary; Maria Island National Park sits just off the southeast coast. There’s plenty of native wildlife to enjoy here with chunky wombats one of many endearing creatures that inhabit the mountainous isle. Along with forester kangaroos and bennett’s wallabies, it also has a colony of Tasmanian Devils. As you explore the car-free island’s coastline, keep watch for fairy penguins that return to their burrows as night falls and dolphins, seals and whales that are regular visitors.

Key experience: Guided wildlife walk

A three-night guided walk is the ultimate way to explore Maria Island’s white sand beaches, fossil-pocked cliffs, dolerite outcrop and inland forests. Sleeping in exclusive beachfront camps and a heritage-listed house and enjoying delicious candlelit dinners, you’ll encounter endless wildlife on the trek and visit its eerie penitentiary station too.

Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park

Dominated by the jagged form of Cradle Mountain, this national park in the northwest is an essential stop on every itinerary. The reflection of Cradle Mountain in Dove Lake is one of the most photographed sights in Tasmania. Well-marked trails lead through the park’s tall forests, alpine moors and around its glassy glacier-carved lakes, including the country’s deepest: Lake St Clair. Unsurprisingly this swathe of wilderness is teeming with wildlife – pademelons, echidnas, quolls, platypus and wombats all roam freely here.

Key experiences: Summit walk to Cradle Mountain peak and After Dark Feeding Tour

Start at Dove Lake and follow the eight-hour summit walk to Cradle Mountain’s craggy crown to soak up the drama of this park. After the walk, you can witness the state’s most iconic (and endangered) creature, the Tasmanian Devil being fed at the excellent nearby wildlife sanctuary Devils @ Cradle’s After Dark Feeding Tour.

Freycinet National Park

Clambering across the Freycinet peninsula, this east coast wilderness is where you’ll find the impossibly pretty Wineglass Bay. Its deep blue waters and white crescent of sand accentuated by the pink granite peaks of the Hazards. Along with hikes along deserted beaches and through coastal forest, the park’s sheltered clear-water coves are a haven for snorkelling, kayaking and diving. You’ll also find the full cast of Tassie marsupials here and an astonishing array of bird species – white-bellied sea-eagles are one of the most spectacular sightings.

Key experience: Climb up to Wineglass Bay

If you want to see why this sand isthmus is so celebrated, take the steep but scenic two-hour return walk to the Wineglass Bay Lookout. It’s the best way to drink in the perfect arc of the bay and the dazzling beauty of the Freycinet Peninsula. You may well spy a passing whale on the horizon as you catch your breath.

Tasmania stays

Freycinet Lodge

Dotted around native woodlands between Richardson’s Beach and Honeymoon Bay, this bush-surrounded escape cocoons guests in nature. Raw materials, timber and design-led features create a luxurious yet laid-back lodge, which offers a choice of accommodation. There are coastal pavilions (with spacious decks and outdoor bathtubs), cabins and mountain terrace kings. Unwind in the convivial Hazards Bar & Lounge, after days spent exploring the ravishing national park, before dining in one of its two restaurants.

MACq 01 Hotel

A perfect base for walking to Hobart’s attractions, this modern hotel by Macquarie Wharf, the city’s oldest waterfront district, is a destination in itself. A self-described “storytelling hotel”, five distinct designs play out in its rooms and suites, paying homage to five Tasmania’s character traits. Art and historic artefacts keep the narrative going in its public space. Share your own stories around the central fire in the striking lounge, sip small-batch local spirits at Evolve Spirits Bar and enjoy a pure Tasmanian feast at Old Wharf Restaurant.

Henry Jones Art Hotel

Also centrally located on the Hunter Street precinct, Henry Jones Art Hotel is an absolute gem with a hip but relaxed vibe. It is the sister hotel to MACq 01 and offers boutique bedrooms, suites and studios with plenty of individual character. Along with original heritage features, its impressive collection of contemporary Tasmanian art sets the hotel apart – the former 19th century jam factory has hundreds of artworks. Join a free tour with the Art Curator, glass of sparkling Tassie wine in hand.

Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge

Set by a lake within the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, this cosy alpine lodge is an inviting retreat after outdoor adventures. Some of its soothing suites and timber cabins have spa baths and fireplaces. You can soothe weary limbs in the calming spa or settle in by the main lodge’s log fires before tucking into dishes peppered with Tasmanian produce in its welcoming restaurants. Enjoy your own private wildlife show every evening, spotting possums and wallabies in the grounds.

Saffire Freycinet

Combine immersion in nature with first-rate hospitality at this striking east coast retreat, overlooking Great Oyster Bay and the Hazards. These dreamy views are framed in the floor-to-ceiling windows of the suites, which are full of light and contemporary in design. The food and drink are of the finest order with local produce (think oysters and mussels plucked fresh from the bay and grass-fed beef and lamb from nearby farms) and island-made wines the star of the show in Palate’s daily changing menu.  

Feeling inspired?

Looking for a one-of-a-kind Australian adventure? Let Audley’s Tasmania specialists introduce you to the many wonders of this all-too-often overlooked state. They’ll craft individual itineraries designed to suit your interests and tastes. From wildlife encounters in the pristine wilderness and active adventures on the craggy coast to uncovering stories of the past in historic sites and luxuriating in exceptional hotels, you’ll be spellbound by this wild and wonderful isle.

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Experience a captivating crossroads in the Cincy Region https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/captivating-crossroads-in-cincy/ Fri, 19 Apr 2024 12:20:49 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=71187 View the story Experience a captivating crossroads in the Cincy Region By Rashmi Narayan The Cincy Region is where the…

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Experience a captivating crossroads in the Cincy Region

The Cincy Region is where the north and south meet, Ohio and Kentucky connect and where urban vibrancy fuses with cool Southern charm. There’s nowhere quite like it…

Cincinnati and its surrounding regions are an exciting blend of history, culture, eccentricity and natural splendour.

Nicknamed the Queen City, it was the fastest growing urban area in the 1830s. Today, with its rejuvenation, there is beer and bourbon to be enjoyed along with plentiful choices for outdoor activities and unique museums that cater to every kind of traveller. The locals here are also happy to share myths, haunted tales and links to the Prohibition Era. What makes it even better is that it is only a direct flight away from London…

Cincy is…

Where the outdoors is your adventure playground

Beyond its sprawling metropolis, the Cincy Region is full of outdoor adventure with many green spaces to explore. Start with a walk or rent a bike to explore Smale Riverfront Park in the city that offers some of the best views of its skyline and the remarkable turquoise-hued John A. Roebling Bridge. If kayaking is more your thing, there are areas near the park where you can rent a kayak along the Ohio River.

Across the Ohio River in Covington, Devou Park is a hilly escape of 280-plus hectares laced with mountain bike trails, fishing opportunities and widescreen panoramas of the Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky skyline.

Enjoy the beautiful wildflowers at the restored Bender Mountain Nature Preserve that offers a range of hiking options including an abandoned stretch of Delhi Pike. Venture up in the hills of the Cincy Region to Mount Airy Forest which is one of the earliest urban reforestation projects in the United States and is ideal for large groups as you’ll find treehouses and picnic spots here.

 On the Rails-To-Trails bike path, there is a truly special experience which entails a visit to Hopewell Ceremonial Earthworks. This UNESCO World Heritage site is home to ancient Indigenous ceremonial earthworks. Built in precise geometric shapes by people from the Hopewell Culture over 2,000 years ago, some of these mounds and ramparts had elaborate graves within their earthen walls. The terrific artefacts here show that the people interacted with those as far away as Florida and Yellowstone National Park.

Laced with artistic flair

Cincy Region is proud of its artistic heritage and a robust theatre scene. In the Eden Park neighbourhood is Cincinnati Art Museum, one of the oldest in the country. It is home to an assorted collection of more than 67,000 artworks including ones by Vincent Van Gogh, Claude Monet and Georgia O’Keeffe, plus an impressive glass chandelier by Dale Chihuly. But you don’t need to go inside to see artistic flair on display in Cincinnati: the region is home to over 230 murals and a simple stroll around the city will pique your interest with the colourful displays. The largest of them all, “Cheers to Cincy Brewing the American Dream”, is around 1,000 square metres in size.

Catch a show at Cincinnati’s Playhouse in the Park which is only a short walk from the art museum. There are a range of classical and contemporary musicals and dramas in this intimate theatre.

There’s also BLINK, a light festival like no other in the country that transforms the streets of Cincinnati into a colossal immersive art installation. Along with the twinkling and sparkling lights, there are also murals and live performances throughout.

 It is hard to miss Cincinnati Music Hall, a marvellous red-brick structure in the revitalised Over-the-Rhine neighbourhood. This grand hall was built in 1878 and reopened in 2017 after an extensive renovation and still retains an old-world charm. It is also home to the Cincinnati Ballet, the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra and Cincinnati Opera (the nation’s second-oldest opera company). For two weeks during the month of May, there is a brilliant choral festival which takes pride in being the longest-running choral festival in the Western Hemisphere. According to historians and locals, there are many ghosts and spirits that haunt the Music Hall.

 Thespians will love the Cincinnati Shakespeare Company, a professional resident ensemble theatre performing Shakespeare’s plays in a fresh and interactive style.

 The Aronoff Center for the Arts (which is better known as simply the Aronoff) is a contemporary centre which showcases ballet, stand-up comedy and Broadway shows such as Disney’s Aladdin and The Book of Mormon.

Always game for a party

There is one thing for sure, no matter when you visit, you will be treated to a wide array of festivals in Cincinnati. Beyond the ‘Who Dey’ chants that you’ll come across when the Bengals are playing, there’s never a dull moment in the city as there are always festivals celebrating food, music, beer and art.

One of the largest Oktoberfest celebrations in the world is right here in the Queen City where it is free to enter and called Zinzinnati. In September, expect a week-long jamboree of the region’s rich German heritage where delicacies such as mett and sauerkraut balls are served with top-notch beer.

Given Cincy Region’s strong ties with beer brewing, it’s no surprise that there are more festivals such as Cincy Beerfest in February and Bockfest in the spring. There are also breweries and bars that offer pairings with their flights of local beer – from doughnuts to ice-cream.

After dark, there are light festivals along the Ohio River throughout winter and you’ll easily get into the festive spirit at the PNC Festival of Lights at Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden. Gastronomes should keep an eye out for delicious treats from top restaurants at festivals such as Taste of Cincinnati, Glier’s Goettafest, Cincinnati Coffee Festival, and Asian Food Fest.

 There are also unique events such as the Rubber Duck Regatta where thousands of yellow rubber ducks set sail on the river every year for a noble cause. The money raised goes to Freestore Foodbank, a charity which helps feed hungry children in Cincinnati.

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Where beer meets bourbon

Over 50 breweries call Cincinnati home, making it one of the country’s best cities for beer mavens. There are more than a dozen IPAs, lagers, seltzers, and stouts at each brewery. Start with a refreshing pint of West Coast style IPA at the iconic Rhinegeist brewery. Housed in an old Christian Moerlein Brewing Co. bottling plant, this large brewery and event space produces various hoppy ales and ciders. Another notable brewery is Braxton Brewing Company which serves over 30 local creations including hard seltzers on a rooftop patio.

From the 1800s to the early 1920s, the Over-the-Rhine neighbourhood was a sanctuary for brewmasters. Though Cincinnati was a lot smaller in size then, there were over 1,000 registered breweries. Take a tour of one of the lagering tunnels where former breweries used to make beer between the 1850s until Prohibition. Remnants of the Old Kauffman brewery can be visited even today.

Sharing proximity to Kentucky, there are several whisky distilleries on The B-Line that are within the Cincy Region. New Riff Distilling in Newport is a proud, independent, family-owned establishment. Try their bourbon tasting sessions where the host will talk you through the awe-inspiring method of producing bourbon. Further south lies Boone County Distilling Company where you’ll learn how this unique distillery pays tribute to the early pioneers that produced spirits in Boone County in the last century. Hop into Revival Vintage Spirits and Bottle Shop at Covington on your way back where you can try some rare, vintage bourbon at affordable prices.

 Cincy’s downtown is dotted with bars serving bourbon tastings and speakeasies. On the notable Vine Street, underneath one of the tunnels which was home to Champion Brewery in the 1850s is now Ghost Baby, a chic spot for live music along with an imaginative list of whiskey-based cocktails.

A melting pot of cuisine

Being at the crossroads of north and south, there isn’t a cuisine quite like what you’ll find in Cincinnati. While each state in the USA has a chili dish as its claim to fame, Cincy’s chili truly stands apart. Its history traces back to two Macedonian brothers creating this dish in the early 1920s.

Head to either two of the chili parlour giants – Skyline or Gold Star where you can order a ‘three way’ which is a heap of tangy chili served over spaghetti or between hot dog buns, topped with a layer of shredded cheese and a tiny sprinkle of cinnamon and dark chocolate that amplifies the dish. Be adventurous and take this further with a famous ‘five way’ adding onions and beans at Camp Washington Chili which is the only spot in Cincinnati with a James Beard Award.

 There is also the vibrant Findlay Market which has enough food to entice every epicurean. As the city was known as Porkopolis, try the famous goetta here – a meatloaf made with oats and spices that were introduced by German immigrants in the nineteenth century. The best part about Cincy’s dining scene is that there are now vegetarian versions of their chili and goetta widely available.

 For a special occasion, book a table at chef Jose Salazar’s James Beard finalist restaurant Mita’s. This is a tastefully decorated spot serving Spanish and Latin American cuisines through small plates and paired with outstanding wines.           

 Beyond Cincy’s downtown are several diners serving delicious no-frills fried chicken which have gained popularity over the last decade. The Greyhound Tavern, a Northern Kentucky icon is a good place to start with their fried chicken that’s served with mash, gravy and a biscuit.

Where unique experiences abound

Across the Ohio River is Newport which was the original Sin City well before Las Vegas earned that nickname. In fact, some of the institutions in Vegas can trace their ancestry to Newport which had casinos such as The Jockey Club and Flamingo Club. The town was a celebrity playground between the Roaring Twenties and the 1960s. It was also notorious for its red-light district and gangsters that owned casinos and befriended the likes of Frank Sinatra and Shirley MacLaine. It is also where there was a lot of bootlegging by famous characters like George Remus during Prohibition and where the infamous Tommy Gun was invented. Book a gangster tour for a guided insight into this sleepy town’s vivid past.

One of Cincy Region’s most unique experiences is a visit to the American Sign Museum in Camp Washington area which entices its visitors with an impressive collection of old neon advertising signs. As a nod to the art of commercial signs and sign making, the museum dives into the history of famous signs across the country and their technological evolution in the last century.

At the verdant Smale Riverfront Park, it is easy to explore Cincinnati as well as Covington and Newport on foot by merely crossing the John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge. This bridge is an architectural marvel and while it may look like a replica of New York’s Brooklyn Bridge, it is actually older.

 Near the park, make sure you visit the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center which is a raw, gripping and incredibly moving experience about slavery in the country. The exhibits here tell powerful stories on courage, perseverance and the struggles ahead and during the American Civil War.

Feeling inspired?

For more information, head to the official Visit Cincy website.

Make it happen

Looking to start planning your trip to the Cincy region with some expert help? Few know this captivating region better than the team at America As You Like It and their years of experience will help to craft your ideal trip to Cincy.

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7 ways to unravel New Zealand’s Māori heritage https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/maori-experiences-in-new-zealand/ Fri, 19 Apr 2024 10:58:10 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=71184 View the story 7 ways to unravel New Zealand’s Māori heritage To really get to know New Zealand you have…

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7 ways to unravel New Zealand’s Māori heritage

Māori history in New Zealand dates back more than 700 years, when the first settlers journeyed across the Pacific to make a new life here. Today, their descendants make up around 17% of the population. Experiencing Māori culture first-hand will deliver incredible travel memories and give you a true insight into this fascinating country.

1. Head out on a Waka trip in Abel Tasman National Park

An oft-quoted Māori proverb goes like this: “Manaaki moana, manaaki tangata, haere whakamua.” Roughly translated, it means “Care for the sea, care for the people, move forward as one.” It’s also the mantra of Waka Abel Tasman, a company that offers tours of this extraordinarily scenic part of the New Zealand coastline in a waka, a traditional Māori canoe. Its most popular journey is a two hour out and back paddle to Tokangawhā/Split Apple Rock. This 120 million year old lump of faulted granite sits surrounded by shallow water just offshore and resembles a beached Pac-Man. Geologists explain it as a casualty of ice-wedging, but according to Māori legend, two feuding gods tore it apart – Tokangawhā means “burst open rock”. Waka Abel Tasman also offers the option of customisable trips for groups; sunrise is especially popular. Regardless, this is a family-friendly activity that even young children can tackle.

2. Visit a traditional Māori village

If you’re keen to get an overview of Māori customs, ceremonies and crafts, then consider visiting a Māori village. Near Rotorua, get acquainted with the Tūhourangi Ngāti Wāhiao people at Whakarewarewa – The Living Māori Village. They welcome visitors to their marae, a Māori meeting house which is also used for weddings and funerals. Experience the haka, a ceremonial war dance that involves foot stomping, body slaps and famously, poking out long tongues. Showcasing their traditions is second nature as they sing, dance with short sticks and spin poi balls. Nearby, learn about traditional methods of weaving and carving at the New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute at Te Puia. Other Māori cultural experiences in the Rotorua area include Te Pā Tū and Mitai Māori Village. On South Island, stay overnight at the Ōnuku Marae; your hosts will demonstrate aspects of their Māori heritage such as history, art and food.

3. Discover the importance of Ta Moko in Rotorua

To Māori people, the inking process is a way of expressing their identity and embracing their cultural heritage. The manawa (heart lines) and korus (unfurling ferns) used in Ta Moko depict aspects of their personal ancestry and family history. In the past, designs painfully and laboriously etched into the skin would have indicated a person’s social rank, knowledge, skill set and marital status. Men bore full face tattoos, while women would have had moko kauae (chin tattoos). Once outlawed, Ta Moko has experienced a recent resurgence in popularity and a renewed acceptance by society. Visitors keen to get an inking should opt for Kirituhi, suitable for those of non-Māori heritage. It encompasses elements of family (whanau), genealogy (whakapapa), community (iwi), and significant milestones in a person’s life. Call in to the Toiariki studio in Rotorua, where indigenous skin artist Richard Francis can discuss your ideas and come up with a personalised design.

4. Meet master pounamu carvers in Hokitika

Pounamu is the collective noun that Māori use for the types of greenstone used for carving. Nephrite jade is only found in New Zealand. Collecting the stone found at the mouth of the Arahura River is off limits as it’s a sacred site for the Māori. Learn more about the stone’s cultural significance on a guided tour led by Kati Waewae tribe guardians of the Arahura River. The stone is also abundant beside the Hokitika River, making this little town on South Island’s West Coast one of the best places in the country for fossicking. To see master carvers at work call in at Westland Greenstone, where daily demonstrations take place in its workshop. Shop for authentic pounamu jewellery at Waewae Pounamu, a small, hapū-owned business where the stones’ provenance is recorded via traceability codes. Alternatively, create your own unique piece under the tutelage of Brett Phillips at Jade Art Carvings.

5. Stay in a marae on the Whanganui Journey

The Whanganui Journey is a five-day canoe trip through native forests along the Whanganui River. It’s the only one of New Zealand’s spectacular Great Walks to require a paddle rather than a pair of hiking boots. A highlight of the journey is the opportunity to stay in a fully-functioning marae which doubles up as an official Great Walk hut from October to April. Tieke Kainga Hut is overseen by Te Whānau o Tīeke in conjunction with the Department of Conservation. Carvings on posts called pou are of the Māori who lived here in the past. If current whānau (members of the extended Māori family) are present, they may stage a traditional pōwhiri welcome. It features formal speeches, blessings and rounds off with the hongi, where noses and foreheads are pushed together in greeting. Consider it appropriate to offer koha, where visitors gift money for the upkeep of the wharenui (communal house).

6. Unravel the myths and legends behind the Tāne Mahuta kauri tree

One of the largest stands of kauri trees is located in Waipoua Forest on the north western coast of North Island. There, you’ll encounter Tāne Mahuta, which is New Zealand’s largest living kauri tree with a girth of 18.8 metres. As well as its impressive size, it is pivotal to the Māori belief system. The tree shares its name with the Lord of the Forest, who was the mythological son of Ranginui, the sky father, and Papa-tū-ā-nuku, the earth mother. Tāne Mahuta is the god of forests and birds, but also created the first man from the soil – without him, we wouldn’t exist. Tired of living in darkness, Tāne’s siblings tried and failed to prise their parents apart from their close embrace. Tāne was the one that succeeded and in doing so, created Te Ao Mārama – the world of light. Today, trees hold the heavens aloft, keeping darkness at bay.

7. Soak up Māori magic at Ngawha Springs

Geothermal water feeds the Ngawha Springs at Te Tai Tokerau, Northland. According to Māori lore, the hot water springs that exist here are the result of Rūaumoko, the unborn child of earth mother Papa-tū-ā-nuku, fidgeting in her womb. Māori tradition once dictated that new mothers took a restorative soak here after giving birth; battle-fatigued warriors might also have bathed here. You don’t have to be either to enjoy the health-enhancing properties of the mineral-rich water, which some believe improves skin conditions and helps with respiratory ailments. To this day, Māori people come here to nurture their wairua (spirit) and to alleviate pain. In all, the complex boasts two dozen pools – some private, others public – with varying temperatures and mineral content. Whether you’ve come for a specific purpose or simply plan a dip to relax and unwind, inject a little Māori magic into your trip with a visit to Ngawha Springs. 

Māori culture is closer than you think

Experiencing Māori heritage is straightforward thanks to flights from London and Manchester with Air New Zealand. Economy fares to Auckland start at £1,270 return per person. Popular routes include travelling via Singapore eastbound and Los Angeles westbound. It’s just as simple to add on a domestic flight: Air New Zealand serves destinations such as Rotorua, New Plymouth, Palmerston North, Nelson, Hokitika and Queenstown, and Air New Zealand’s domestic connectivity and seamless transits make it easy to get around the country. Immersing yourself in Māori culture, no matter where you choose to explore, is only ever a flight or two away.

For more information, visit the official Air New Zealand website.

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How Fiji’s traditional communities are safeguarding its natural world https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/how-fijis-traditional-communities-are-safeguarding-its-natural-world/ Thu, 11 Apr 2024 09:20:53 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=70018 Visitors to Fiji will not only see the ancient iTaukei philosophy of working with the natural world in action, but can help preserve a way of life in danger of being eroded...

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Visitors to Fiji will not only see the ancient iTaukei philosophy of working with the natural world in action, but can help preserve a way of life in danger of being eroded…

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How Fiji’s traditional communities are safeguarding its natural world

Visitors to Fiji will not only see the ancient iTaukei philosophy of working with the natural world in action, but can help preserve a way of life in danger of being eroded.

Words Mark Stratton

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Visitors to Nukubati Resort receive a warm beach-side welcome (Mark Stratton)

Visitors to Nukubati Resort receive a warm beach-side welcome (Mark Stratton)

Like many tales of the South Pacific, my talanoa – or ‘storytelling’ – begins on the water, en route from Vanua Levu to one of the 330-plus islands that sustain the iTaukei, the Traditional Owners of Fiji. Leone Vokai, dreadlocks splayed in the breeze, was piloting our wooden boat to a resort on the tiny island of Nukubati. The staff of its six beachside bures (cabins) joined Leone’s wife, Lara Bourke, on the shoreline to sing a melodic welcome. “Bula,” they shouted as one. It is a greeting (meaning hello or good health) that I would hear throughout my time in Fiji.

As I waded ashore, the sand felt soft beneath my feet. In the wooden pavilion, a barbecued tatavu feast was laid out before us. We sat on the matted floor and ate taro leaves with roasted yams, as well as fish caught on the line from beyond the lagoon. The lime-leaf tea had even been picked from the garden.
“We harvest 98% of what we eat from our wild gardens,” said Lara, who explained that living with nature has been the essence of Fiji’s iTaukei culture for more than 3,500 years.

The barbecued fish and locally picked veg served on Nukubati comes fresh from the seas, forests and gardens of the island, making it thoroughly sustainable (Mark Stratton)

The barbecued fish and locally picked veg served on Nukubati comes fresh from the seas, forests and gardens of the island, making it thoroughly sustainable (Mark Stratton)

I settled into my bure surrounded by views of the ocean. Within an hour I was barefoot. Within two hours I’d swum amid bright offshore corals. By late afternoon the sun was finally extinguished across the Pacific horizon, replaced by the heartbeat of a thousand hidden frogs.

While every exotic preconception I’d had about Fiji’s islands could be found here, I was more excited by the idea that traditional iTaukei life offers visitors a way of seeing these islands more sustainably. Lara had offered one example but I wanted to experience more, so it was among Fiji’s mountain villages, where the old ways thrive in self-sufficient communities, that this story truly begins.

My immersion in iTaukei life began within hours of touching down in Nadi on Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu. My salusalu garland, woven with hibiscus bark and placed on me as a greeting, still dangled around my neck as I started learning about two joys of traditional island life: hot-stone cooking (lovo) and kava, a drink celebrated across the Pacific and ground from the roots of Piper methysticum, which translates as ‘intoxicating pepper’.

Kava and songs on Nukubati Island (Mark Stratton)

Kava and songs on Nukubati Island (Mark Stratton)

Sam Soko and his Chinese-Australian partner, Anna Chan, created Vavavi (meaning ‘to bake’) after the pandemic cost Sam his boat-charter business. Their hands-on classes teach how to prepare a lovo, and we were soon placing large stones on a wood-fired pit. I was instructed in preparing the food: peeling cassava and halving coconuts with a machete – a useful skill if ever shipwrecked on a desert island. I made palusami, a dish of taro leaves wrapped around vegetables and fish soaked in coconut cream. This was placed inside woven leaves on the hot stones and covered in soil.

“Lovo are popular at ceremonies like weddings, but if you invite 20 people in Fiji, seventy will turn up, as extended families are huge,” laughed Anna. We unearthed the lovo after 90 minutes, barbecued to perfection. The quantity was so abundant that I would’ve welcomed an extended family to help me out.

After dinner, it was kava time. In truth, it always is in Fiji. “It’s a formal way to welcome someone,” explained Sam. “It is also an act of respect (sevusevu) to present a village’s headman with dried kava roots if you are visiting.”

Using a muslin cloth, Sam strained the grated roots that he’d submerged in water, filling a wooden tanoa basin with the brown liquid Fijians call ‘grog’. We drank it from coconut shells. Etiquette dictates clapping three times, shouting ‘Bula’ and then downing it in one go. The drink is a mild sedative but it is a big part of socialising in Fiji, and learning its etiquette stood me in good stead.

Drinking kava also created a relaxed environment for talanoa (storytelling), and Sam was full of tales. “The lovo was once used by chiefs to cook their enemies and absorb their power,” he explained during one of his darker stories. I would soon find out that it was far from taboo to discuss cannibalism here.

Fiji is more than just its pristine sands – there is also 3,500 years of iTaukei culture to explore here (Tourism Fiji)

Fiji is more than just its pristine sands – there is also 3,500 years of iTaukei culture to explore here (Tourism Fiji)

Community support

The next day, I drove up the west coast towards Volivoli, passing the small trains that ply the narrow-gauge railway to deliver sugarcane to Lautoka port for refinement. Soon the canefields gave way to a coastline of volcanic outliers, and it was here that I passed the grave of Fiji’s most prolific cannibal, Udre-Udre, a 19th-century chief who allegedly consumed 872 people. This wasn’t even the most notorious example I came across; that honour went to the story of the British missionary Reverend Baker, who in 1867 was said to have broken an iTaukei taboo by touching a local chief’s head and then swiftly met his end.

These days breaches of protocol aren’t nearly so consequential. Yet cultural traditions remain strong here, and on visiting Nabalasere village in the mountains, I was careful to follow the local custom of not wearing any head covering – that privilege was afforded only to the village chief. I donned a sulu (sarong) and, when entering the village, presented my sevusevu of kava roots to the Turaga-ni-koro (headman), Aminiasi Levatia.

My observance of etiquette did not, however, stop villagers from pulling my leg.

Meeting the villagers of Nabaselere (Mark Stratton)

Meeting the villagers of Nabaselere (Mark Stratton)

“If you’d come here years ago, we’d be eating you,” said Aminiasi, to uproarious laughter during lunch. This was a joyful day of hiking and cultural exchange, all in the company of my guides from Talanoa Treks. The village receives 60 Fijian dollars (£21) per visitor, with the money going towards the community. “Our culture across Fiji is eroding, so bringing visitors helps strengthen it by feeling pride in who we are,” said Aminiasi.

The 200-strong settlement was immaculate and fertile. Sky-blue corrugated-iron huts ranged the hillside amid soursop and papaya trees. Pigs and chickens ran amok and gardens of taro, cassava and kava intermingled with rainforest dashed by orange-flowered tulip trees. I swam in a plunge pool beneath a 40m-high waterfall where Aminiasi claimed each rivulet marked the birth of a village boy. After a lunch of home-grown veg, we drank kava and our talanoa was rich.

Women all over Fiji take excess produce from such villages to market, raising a little cash to buy essentials. In capital Suva, I dodged the rain and headed to an undercover market heaped high with organic produce and fronted by flower stalls where ladies sold birds-of-paradise and wild ginger blooms.

Freshly pulled taro roots at a market in Suva (Mark Stratton)

Freshly pulled taro roots at a market in Suva (Mark Stratton)

“Guests say to me: ‘Those poor women sitting there all day.’ But trust me, they’re having a great time away from their husbands, eating ice creams and chatting,” said Peter Sipeli, a poet and gay activist who runs city tours offering an alternative take on Fijian life.

“I want to show Fijian culture is more inclusive, with Indians, Chinese and gay people. We’re portrayed overseas as dancing, smiling Pacific islanders, but life is far more complex.”

It’s a complexity that deepened during British rule (1874–1970), when 60,000 Indian labourers were brought in by girmit (agreement) to work the canefields. They were promised good wages but were mostly enslaved. Nowadays, many of the Indo-Fijian community are established traders and farmers, although under iTaukei custom their rights to land ownership are limited.

Another legacy of the British is the city’s architecture. Of all Suva’s colonial buildings, Thurston Gardens stood out with its elegant clocktower and banyan tree full of hanging fruit bats. Peter also opened my eyes to how much the urban landscape had been repurposed. As we strolled down Cumming Street, the oldest street in Suva, he explained how it had been reclaimed from swampland and become a busy centre.

Thurston Gardens was built in 1913 on the site of the original village of Suva and was only later renamed after Sir John Bates Thurston (Mark Stratton)

Thurston Gardens was built in 1913 on the site of the original village of Suva and was only later renamed after Sir John Bates Thurston (Mark Stratton)

“It was full of brothels and opium dens in the early 1900s; now it’s Gujarati-owned. They came here as traders and look down on other Indians, whose ancestors were indentured labourers,” said Peter above the Hindi pop music that blared noisily down the street. “It sells garments that no large Fijian – which is most of us – could fit into,” he laughed.

Later we visited the town hall, which was opened in 1905. This handsome, two-storey building has a wraparound balcony and is now home to Ashiyana Indian restaurant.

“I spoke with the owner, who goes by the surname Morris. She told me that the bloody British couldn’t pronounce her Indian name, so she anglicised it,” explained Peter.

Fiji is home to incredible expanses of coral reefs, with Cakaulevu alone covering some 202,700 sq km (Alamy)

Fiji is home to incredible expanses of coral reefs, with Cakaulevu alone covering some 202,700 sq km (Alamy)

The sand warriors

From Suva, it was a short flight north to Vanua Levu, the stepping stone to Nukubati Island. The superstitious local air carrier had no row numbered 13, and I certainly felt lucky to be joining Lara at her small family resort – the most sustainably run accommodation I have every stayed in. Her father had adapted it to run fully on solar power 30 years ago. All of its waste is treated naturally, produce is home-grown in rainforest gardens and guests drink collected rainwater.

They took me out on a boat to the 260km-long Cakaulevu, the third longest continuous barrier reef system in the world.

“The reef is the identity of all coastal people; we use its tides for transport and marine life for food. Our lives depend on protecting it,” Lara explained.

Alconarian coral dominates this reef scene (Alamy)

Alconarian coral dominates this reef scene (Alamy)

It was a buckarooing 25-minute boat ride across the inky-blue Pacific swell to Cakaulevu. This global biodiversity hotspot is home to 74% of all known coral types and half of Fiji’s fish species. In calmer waters, we snorkelled among hard corals shaped like brains, geisha fans and curly kale. Purple and green corals and starbursts of orange anemones surrounded me. Among the myriad sea creatures, I saw octopuses, moray eels, sea cucumbers and giant clams. Later on, spinner dolphins raced our bow.

While heading back to land, we passed the island of the chief whose clan maintain the ancient rights of protection, called qoliqoli, over the reef and have the power to declare a taboo on fishing if stocks deplete.

“Nukubati translates as ‘sand warriors’,” explained Lara. “They were the chief’s fishermen and gained a lot of prestige from protecting their fishing grounds. Their canoes were always ready for war.”

Cakaulevu felt like something worth fighting for. Reluctantly, I departed Nukubati and headed south, towards Savusavu, the more developed southern coast of Vanua Levu, its beach resorts popular with Americans and Australians. The Hibiscus Highway wended over mountainsides of sandalwood trees and via Vuadomo, where I spied a whitewashed church dedicated to Reverend Timoci, a man said to have had the power to stop cyclones.

The bridge of land linking Natewa Peninsula to Vanua Levu is so slight that the area developed incredible endemic wildlife – the kind you’d normally find on a lone island (Mark Stratton)

The bridge of land linking Natewa Peninsula to Vanua Levu is so slight that the area developed incredible endemic wildlife – the kind you’d normally find on a lone island (Mark Stratton)

We dropped by KokoMana cocoa plantation, a two-hectare plot where agricultural scientist Richard Markham produces bean-to-bar chocolate beneath the rainforest canopy. During a two-hour tour, he explained the science of grafting cocoa varieties and that the plant still grows wild all over Fiji. His mission is to demonstrate how crops, including kava, can thrive under canopy, without the need to clear trees. He encourages local subsistence farmers to get their wild cocoa back in cycle and pays well to take their pods. I savoured the fruits of this labour during a tasting at the tour’s end. His chocolate was creamy, with a high cocoa-butter content, and flavoured with sea-salt, chai masala and ginger.

KokoMana’s chocolatier is Lina. “She was the accountant,” explained Richard, “but when the Love Island film crew came here looking for generic footage, they weren’t happy with a middle-aged man like me demonstrating tempering chocolate, so Lina stepped in. She turned out to be rather good.”

Firewalking has been a tradition on Beqa Island for more than 500 years, where it was said to have developed in the highland village of Nakarovu. Participants begin preparing many days before the ceremony and follow strict protocols, even going so far as to abstain from eating coconuts or sex (Mark Stratton)

Firewalking has been a tradition on Beqa Island for more than 500 years, where it was said to have developed in the highland village of Nakarovu. Participants begin preparing many days before the ceremony and follow strict protocols, even going so far as to abstain from eating coconuts or sex (Mark Stratton)

Bringing the fire

Leaving the cocoa forests of Vanua Levu behind, I returned to Viti Levu for more island hopping, embarking on the 30-minute sail from Pacific Harbour to Beqa, a small, rugged island to the south. At the resort, I dropped my bags at a bure in a tropical garden, and from the beach I swam out to the reef and snorkelled among the seagrass and alongside a green turtle. At low tide, women with baskets scoured the rock pools for shellfish, sending mud crabs scurrying inland to the safety of their holes.

The island has a tradition of firewalking. The men of Rukua village built a fire and laid down stones to heat up. It was a bit like a lovo, except they were barbecuing themselves. Dressed in skirts woven from pandanus leaves, they walked across the stones and showed their blackened soles at the end of the display.

The welcome on Kuata Island is never less than spectacular (Tourism Fiji)

The welcome on Kuata Island is never less than spectacular (Tourism Fiji)

“Five hundred years ago, islanders were given a gift that meant they could not be burnt by fire and had the power to heal burns,” explained islander Yasiti Ratulevu. “A powerful chief was given the gift by a veli, a spirit god, in return for its life being spared. When I was young, I ran into my mother’s cooking pot and got third-degree burns. My grandfather, one of the gifted, put his hands on the burns and now I have no scarring.”

By catamaran, I sailed westwards to the Yasawas, 20 rainforested islands made up of broken calderas with halos of white sand. I splashed ashore in the warm tide, taking my first steps on Kuata Island, where my steep-roofed bure touched the beach.

There was little time to unpack because a boat was readying to venture out to Moya Reef for an extraordinary encounter with sharks. With the snorkel guide releasing fish scraps, I was soon swimming among a kaleidoscopic blizzard of brightly coloured fish. It wasn’t long before both blacktip and whitetip reef sharks came to investigate. Their heads flicked from side to side, probing for food, sometimes close enough to touch, although I returned to my bure with all my digits intact.

Beqa’s firewalkers display their charred soles to prove this tradition is no sleight of foot (Mark Stratton)

Beqa’s firewalkers display their charred soles to prove this tradition is no sleight of foot (Mark Stratton)

Throughout my island journeys, Fijians explained to me their concerns over the effects of climate change on the sea level and the increase in cyclones. For the conscious traveller, flying halfway around the world to Fiji to do some good is perhaps counter-intuitive, yet my presence as a visitor here had helped support inspiring pathways for maintaining Fijian customs, which inherently protect these beautiful islands.

A tradition exists whereby departing guests are given a flower to cast into the ocean so that it washes back ashore. It symbolises returning one day, and it stirred in me a sense of unfinished travels. I hadn’t yet met the famous woodcarvers of the Lau islands, nor tasted Fiji’s best kava on Kadavu, or dived with manta rays, or seen Levuka’s ancient villages. I departed feeling my Fijian talanoa had only just begun.

Five of Fiji’s best dive sites

1. Beqa Island tiger shark dive

Dive manager Brandon Paige has developed an extraordinary dive where he hand-feeds tiger sharks and bull sharks as divers watch on.

2. Great Astrolabe Reef

A world-class dive among the pristine corals off Kadavu Island. Expect plenty of mantas and sharks.

3. Rainbow Reef

This reef delivers spellbinding corals and tropical fish as you dive Taveuni Island’s ‘Great White Wall’.

4. The Suncoast

A major site for brightly coloured soft corals that is found off the north-eastern tip of Viti Levu, within reach of Volivoli Resort.

5. Drawaqa Island

A Yasawa dive where manta rays come to cleaning stations off Barefoot Manta Island Resort.

Beqa Lagoon is popular for its cageless shark diving, which brings fearless travellers up close to bull, nurse, tiger, blacktip and whitetip reef sharks (Shutterstock)

Beqa Lagoon is popular for its cageless shark diving, which brings fearless travellers up close to bull, nurse, tiger, blacktip and whitetip reef sharks (Shutterstock)

About the trip

The author was supported by Travel Nation
which offers a 16-night tour of Fiji. This includes all the experiences featured in this article, including three nights on Nukubati, a Talanoa Treks hike and stays on Beqa and Kuata islands, as well as international and internal flights and transfers, with B&B accommodation, several full-board days and an overnight in Hong Kong each way.

Further support was provided by Tourism Fiji and Fiji Airways.

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Meet Cape Town and the Western Cape’s Neverending Tourists https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/neverending-tourists/ Tue, 09 Apr 2024 10:49:20 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=70829 View the story Cape TownCape KarooCape OverbergCape WinelandsGarden RouteCape West Coast Meet Cape Town and the Western Cape’s Neverending Tourists…

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Meet Cape Town and the Western Cape’s Neverending Tourists

It’s hard to know just how South Africa’s Western Cape will capture your imagination. It may be the culinary adventures around every corner. The warmth of the people, or the wildlife experiences on land and at sea. Or it may simply be the wide open landscapes that invite adventure. For three ‘Neverending Tourists’, Western Cape delivered a wonderland of luxury, nature and adventure…

Explore Cape Town and the

Western Cape

From vine-striped valleys to wide-open landscapes and a wild coastline, the Western Cape can lay claim to being one of South Africa’s most handsome provinces. Explore it region by region with this interactive map…

Explore the Western Cape’s captivating regions…

Cape Town

Between the sandstone massif of Table Mountain and the sparkling Atlantic Ocean, South Africa’s ‘Mother City’ combines distinct African energy with a vibrant culinary scene, world-class cultural landscape, and abundant natural beauty. Regularly voted amongst the best cities in the world by American and British travellers, Cape Town is a multicultural melting pot that simply cannot be missed.

Whether you’re walking, running or biking the trails on Table Mountain; meeting the penguins on Boulders Beach; or simply lazing on the powder-soft sands of Clifton’s beaches you’ll soon discover why this is called the ‘Fairest Cape’.

“Luxury for me is being able to open my door, and see the mountain; walk down to the sea and experience amazing nature with my family,” says Adetola, of what she loves about Cape Town.

 Begin with an all-day tour of the Cape Peninsula to get your bearings. Wander the fynbos gardens of Kirstenbosch, before exploring the charming seaside suburbs of False Bay. feel the wind in your hair at the Cape of Good Hope, before meandering back along the city’s glamorous Atlantic Seaboard.

 Allow time to delve into the city’s complex past, whether that’s a walking tour of the Bo-Kaap or a deep dive into apartheid history on Robben Island and in the District Six Museum. You’ll want at least a day for the city’s vibrant cultural attractions too: don’t miss the Iziko Natonal Gallery or the striking Zeitz MOCAA. 

Come evening, tap into Cape Town’s world-renowned culinary landscape, whether that’s dipping into the on-trend eateries of Bree Street, tasting the best of the city at the Time Out Market – the first in Africa – or finding a waterside seat in the fine-dining restaurants of the V&A Waterfront.

 Adetola’s’s top pick

“I love the Sea Point Promenade at sunset. Wander with the locals, before dinner at one of the gorgeous seafront restaurants.”

Cape Karoo

The Karoo has always been a place for wanderers. It’s a landscape of empty plains and farm windmills turning slowly in solitude. Where sun-baked rocks seem almost immortal, and time slows in the quiet villages that punctuate long stretches of lonely roads.

It may appear an empty place, but look closer. Stop. Speak to the locals. Here the Koo Valley orchards erupt in blossoms with the arrival of spring. In Montagu, history and hot springs combine. En route to Barrydale you’ll find a vast – and malaria-free – game reserve where the ‘Big Five’ roam wild.

Then discover the Karoo’s remarkable mountain passes: where big skies meet ambitious road-builders to create a road-trippers paradise. Descend the northern flanks and the village of Prince Albert awaits; a place for artists and those captivated by the unique energy of the Karoo.

For those who love a two-wheeled adventure, these far-flung roads are “challenging, but rewarding. You get the heart pumping!” says Scott. “I find myself at ease in these landscapes. There’s a great peace that comes with being far away.”

Scott’s top pick

“Don’t miss the dramatic drive through Meiringspoort, which links the ‘Little’ Karoo to the ‘Great’ Karoo through a beautiful, wild valley.”

Cape Overberg

The Overberg region is a bucolic corner of the Western Cape, a rolling landscape of farmland and fynbos, where fields of wheat and canola change shades with the seasons, and a wildly enigmatic coastline offers some of the world’s best whale-watching.

Start exploring in Hermanus; the burgeoning seaside town that was in 2019 inscribed as a Creative City of Gastronomy by the United Nations, thanks to the diversity of culinary adventures you’ll find here. Inland the Hemel-en-Aarde – ‘Heaven and Earth’ – valley offers charming country bistros and award-winning wine cellars.  

Hermanus is also a hotspot for land-based whale-watching (July to November) and whether you’re wandering the Cliff Path, paddling out on a kayak excursion, or taking a boat trip you’re sure to spot the Southern right whales that migrate here each year to mate and calve in the warm waters of Walker Bay.   

 “The beauty of the Western Cape lies in its diversity,” says Scott. “You can head in any direction and find something that takes your breath away. It’s an outdoor paradise.”

 Further along the coastline, the quaint village of Stanford offers luxury accommodation on the shores of the Klein River Lagoon, with Grootbos Private Nature Reserve nearby famous worldwide for its ‘fynbos safaris’. The impressive new botanical art gallery here is home to a remarkable fynbos florilegium of botanical art, while the nearby town of Gansbaai is equally famous for its great white and bronze whaler sharks. 

From Gansbaai head east past wetlands and wild landscapes to find the terroir-driven wineries at the mission village of Elim, before heading for Africa’s southernmost point at Cape Agulhas. The iconic lighthouse here was built in 1848, and today you can still climb to the light for unbeatable views of the coastline.

Scott’s top pick

“I love the gravel back roads through the wheat fields to reach De Hoop Nature Reserve. The dunes at Koppie Alleen are incredible for watching whales, without the crowds.”

Cape Winelands

Did you know that the Western Cape is home to the oldest vineyards in the Southern Hemisphere? Even though South Africa falls into the ‘New World’ of wine, the heritage and traditions of winemaking here date back to 1659… more than a century before the first vines were planted in Australia or California!

That rich history is matched by superlative quality and a remarkable array of cellar-door experiences, with both historic estates and contemporary cellars offering cellar tours, culinary adventures and guided tastings.

South African winemaking began in the vineyards of Constantia, just 20 minutes from the centre of Cape Town, but to appreciate the true beauty of the Cape Winelands you’ll want to head for the winemaking regions of Paarl, Franschhoek and Stellenbosch.

Start in Stellenbosch – often dubbed ‘The Kingdom of Cabernet’ for its world-class reds – with a beguiling mix of historic and contemporary estates to explore, while the oak-lined streets of this vibrant university town play host to a thriving wine bar culture.

“I’ve been lucky enough to live all over Africa, in Europe, and in the UK. And I really can say that the Western Cape is by far the most beautiful,” enthuses Adetola. “The wine, the restaurants, the nature, the outdoors. The expanse of the place. The minute that I stepped off the plane I just felt at home here.”

You’ll certainly feel at home in Franschhoek, a town as famous for its culinary attractions as its wine. Huguenot Street is lined with exceptional eateries and the valley boasts a collection of memorable museums and inspiring galleries. Just 20 minutes’ drive brings you to Paarl, a region making a name for itself with elegant estates and inspired eateries. And that’s just the beginning… if time allows you can easily spend a week exploring the Swartland, Breedekloof and Agulhas wineries to discover the diversity of terroir across the Western Cape’s world-class winelands.

Adetola’s top pick

“The deck at Haute Cabrière above Franschhoek is a must. The views are incredible and they make the most delicious Cap Classique, South Africa’s version of champagne.”

Garden Route

One of South Africa’s most famous road trips is also its most beautiful. Stretching for 200 kilometres from Mossel Bay to Tsitsikamma the Garden Route offers something for every type of traveller. A selection of small game reserves offer a convenient and malaria-free safari experience, while families will love the warm waters and wide-open beaches of Plettenberg Bay, while the languid waters of the Knysna lagoon offer sailing trips and paddleboat excursions.

Foodies will love Knysna’s vibrant restaurant scene and charming country markets, while active travellers can run, hike and bike through old-growth indigenous forests, or soar through the canopy on a zipline. In Tsitsikamma, you’ll find multi-day hiking trails and thrilling ocean adventures, while canyoning trips and the world’s highest commercial bungee jump will get the adrenalin pumping.

Or take it slow, with a leisurely kayak on the rivers and lakes of the Garden Route National Park. And don’t forget to look up: the onshore winds here draw paragliders from across the globe, launching into thin air from the mountains above the town of Wilderness.

“Wilderness is a great place to live; there is so much you can do,” says Khobi. “The moment that’s changed my life was the first time I flew off the ‘Map of Africa’ … flying is a truly amazing experience when you’re up in the sky and the clouds and it’s just you and the elements. You have this feeling of freedom.”

Khobi’s top pick

“Winter is a wonderful time of year here, with cool days for adventure and Southern Right whales offshore.”

Cape West Coast

Lonely. Wild. Windswept. And truly wonderful. With its cold waters and lonely roads South Africa’s West Coast isn’t your typical coastal holiday hotspot, but the stretches of sandy solitude and fynbos landscapes that stretch north of Cape Town are quick to reveal their unfiltered charms to those who make the effort.

Start at !Khwa Ttu, a remarkable San Heritage Centre that sensitively tells the story of the San people who once lived nomadically across the region. Then press on to the West Coast National Park, which promises wonderful whale watching in the winter, and sprays of wildflowers in spring. It’s also a Ramsar ‘wetland of global importance’, so expect remarkable bird watching from the Geelbek hides. In summer, the blue waters and white sands draw savvy beachgoers.

“The Western Cape is a playground for adults,” says Scott. “You’ve got oceans, mountains, deserts. I find myself at ease in these landscapes.”

Hungry? You’re in luck. At Die Strandloper in the town of Langebaan you’ll find a 10-course seafood feast prepared on open fires, while at Paternoster the hyper-local foraged cuisine at Wolfgat has seen it win a string of global awards. Stay a few days to wander the empty sands, or explore the enigmatic lighthouse nearby.

Take a day-trip to the Berg River for boat trips, birdwatching and a taste of bokkoms – a regional delicacy of salted, air-dried fish – then return via the West Coast Fossil Park to delve into the area’s ancient history.

Scott’s top pick

“There’s a wonderful gravel road that leads to Eland’s Bay, where you’ll find a spectacular left-hand point break. It’s one of Africa’s best-kept secrets for surfers.”

Feeling inspired?

For more information, head to the official Discover Cape Town and the Western Cape website.

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The ultimate route to discover Japan’s lesser-known cities https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/the-ultimate-route-to-discover-japans-lesser-known-cities/ https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/the-ultimate-route-to-discover-japans-lesser-known-cities/#respond Mon, 08 Apr 2024 14:15:49 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?p=69722 Get to know Okayama, Hiroshima, Matsuyama and Takamatsu on this cultural itinerary

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Okayama City

Okayama is strategically positioned at a crossroads between the Chugoku, Kansai and San’in regions. In its central area lies Okayama Castle and Korakuen Garden, while to the south lies the Seto Inland Sea. This creates an urban space where nature and culture harmoniously coexist.

Hop on a bullet train from Osaka and you’ll reach Okayama Station in less than an hour. From there, it’s just a 5-minute ride on the streetcar to Okayama Castle, followed by a 10-minute walk from the nearest stop.

Okayama Castle, known as Crow Castle for its black walls, occupies a beautiful spot by the Asahi River. Climb up to its donjon, and you’ll be greeted with sweeping views across the city and over to Kōrakuen. Linked to the castle grounds by Tsukimi-bashi (“Moon-Viewing Bridge”), Kōrakuen is considered one of Japan’s three most beautiful gardens. It was laid out in the 1680s, and has all the features you’d expect from that period – a vast pond filled with colourful koi fish, groves of elegantly pruned blossoming trees, and the seamless incorporation of surrounding scenery into the garden design. In the garden, you’ll find lush green lawns, tea plantations, and even a birdhouse for the endangered Japanese crane, Tancho.

About 17 minutes west of Okayama Station by train, followed by a 10-minute walk from the nearest station, lies one of Okayama’s most beautiful sights: Kibitsujinja Shrine.

This vast wooded shrine complex, parts of which date back to 1357, is a beautiful place to wander and you can experience unique Shintō rituals here too. In the Narukama Ritual, a Shinto priest and Asome attendant heat a cauldron over a fire, and its unusual roaring sounds are used for divination.

Being so close to the Seto Inland Sea, Okayama is well-known for its seafood. Hamoji, near the station, serves sushi made with fresh, locally caught fish.

Among them, one dish that particularly stands out is Bara-zushi, a unique dish to the region and beloved as a local delicacy that’s beautifully arranged with seafood and seasonal vegetables. Bara-zushi in Okayama is commonly enjoyed on special occasions. Another famous gourmet dish from Okayama is the Demiglace Katsu-don, a pork cutlet topped with demi-glace sauce. It’s a popular local dish, with each establishment serving up unique flavours.

In Okayama, head to a restaurant called Nomura, the birthplace of the Demiglace Katsu-don. The original owner of the restaurant first learned how to make demi-glace while working at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo, but as the recipe was intended for Western cuisine, he tailored the flavour and texture for a more Japanese palette, better paired with white rice. Demiglace Katsu-don is a delicious local flavour you won’t want to miss.

Hiroshima City

Next, get to know Hiroshima, which hosted the G7 Summit in 2023.

Okonomiyaki is one of the popular dishes in Hiroshima. There are two types of okonomiyaki: Kansai style where the batter and cabbage are mixed together before cooking; and Hiroshima style, where the batter, cabbage, and ingredients are layered and cooked one by one. Near Hiroshima Station (about 35 minutes by Shinkansen from Okayama), there’s an okonomiyaki experience studio called “OKOSTA,” where you can make and eat Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki yourself. You can choose from various types of okonomiyaki, such as squid tempura, green onion, and tomato cheese. There is no greater pleasure than eating homemade okonomiyaki!

After enjoying the hands-on lunch experience, take the bus or tram to Hiroshima-jō. The five-storey keep is surrounded by a moat, and gives superb views of the city, divided by several meandering rivers.

Like so much of Hiroshima, the castle is a twentieth-century reproduction. Around fifteen minutes’ walk away, you can see the Atomic Bomb Dome, standing as a poignant reminder just 160m from the hypocentre of the first atomic bomb dropped in human history on 6th August 1945. It serves as a powerful symbol advocating for the abolition of nuclear weapons and promoting lasting peace.

Across the river from the dome is the Peace Memorial Park. Here you’ll find the sobering Peace Memorial Museum, which explains not only the bomb’s short- and long-term effects, but also how nuclear weapons have proliferated since then. Take some time afterwards to contemplate the memorials in the serene, leafy park, and consider the aim to which the city recommits itself each year: a world without war.

Given its history, many people expect Hiroshima to feel somewhat bleak. The truth couldn’t be more different: the city today feels dynamic and welcoming, with its lively restaurants and bars, trundling streetcars and active arts scene. It’s also a great place to see a performance of Hiroshima Kagura, a traditional performing art which tells ancient stories through bright costumes, eye-catching masks, dramatic dancing and live music. It’s exciting and colourful, a memorable way to spend an evening.

Base yourself at the Grand Prince Hotel Hiroshima, just south of the city, for easy access to the sights and spectacular views over the Seto Inland Sea. The hotel even has a direct high-speed boat link with UNESCO-listed Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima.

Matsuyama City

A scenic boat ride from Hiroshima is Matsuyama, the largest city on Shikoku. Just like Okayama and Hiroshima, you can get around by tram. Matsuyama Castle stands tall in the centre of the city and is known for its cherry blossom viewing spot, but you can also enjoy the scenery during all four seasons, such as the fresh greenery in summer and the crisp leaves in autumn. The view from the hiking trail, ropeway and lift to the castle is beautiful, and best of all is the spectacular view of the Seto Inland Sea from the castle tower.

Near Matsuyama Castle, there’s the Matsuyama Ropeway Shopping Street, where you’ll find shops selling traditional crafts, fun eateries offering local specialties like Jakoten (made by deep-frying minced fish), and specialty stores serving Ehime’s famous sea bream rice.

One of the stores is Kadoya Okaido Store, which is renowned for its Uwajima sea bream rice, a dish featuring raw egg mixed with broth, sashimi in sauce, and white rice. The combination of flavours and textures is delightful, with the sea bream sashimi bursting with freshness. At the Smiley Ehime Official Souvenir Shop, you can even experience mandarin orange juice flowing directly from a tap – an unforgettable experience unique to the area.

After exploring the Matsuyama Ropeway Shopping Street, take a short 10-minute bus ride to Dogo, one of Japan’s oldest hot spring resorts, known for its luxurious ryokan and ties to the imperial family. Consider staying at Kowakuen Haruka, offering hot springs, city views, and a blend of Japanese and Western-style rooms. The view of Dogo Onsen Honkan and the shopping district from the upper floors is truly breathtaking.

Dogo Onsen Honkan, believed to have inspired the bathhouse in Spirited Away, is Japan’s oldest public bathhouse. Don’t miss the Botchan Karakuri Clock, featuring characters from Soseki Natsume’s novel Botchan, transformed into small dolls that appear at set times to a cheerful tune, based on the Shinrokaku motif.

Just twenty minutes’ walk away is Isite-ji Temple, the 51st temple on the Shikoku 88-temples pilgrimage. Visitors can also enjoy a unique experience by dressing in traditional pilgrim costumes, including the traditional Sugegasa hats, and participating in the Shikoku pilgrimage, gaining worldwide attention. The temple boasts six nationally important cultural properties, including the main hall and a three-story pagoda. After your visit, be sure to try the yakimochi, or grilled rice cakes, known as Oyaki, sold around the temple – their moderate sweetness is the perfect post-temple treat.

Takamatsu City

Two and a half hours by train from Matsuyama, laidback Takamatsu invites you to slow down and enjoy the sea air, perhaps strolling to the red glass lighthouse or relaxing at a coastal café.

Tamamo Park, located in the heart of Takamatsu City, is a park developed on the site of Takamatsu Castle, known as one of Japan’s three great seaside castles. The castle’s moat draws in seawater, and the opening and closing of the sluice gates regulates the difference in tidal levels. Because seawater is drawn in, you can see marine fish such as sea bream, mullet and puffer fish in the moat. Additionally, weather permitting, you can experience feeding sea bream from a traditional Japanese boat. Within the park, there are historical buildings such as the Hiunkaku, designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan, which has also been used as a location for several films. Seasonal events are also held in the park, offering unique experiences throughout the year.

Located about a 10-minute train ride from Tamamo Park, Ritsurin Garden is one of Japan’s most important formal gardens – and at 16 hectares, certainly its largest (including Mt. Shiun in the background, it’s roughly 75 hectares in total!) You could easily spend hours seeking out its most beautiful vistas, from a teahouse overlooking a lake to perfectly manicured, centuries-old pine trees.

The local speciality is sanuki udon – thick, chewy noodles served with a light, fragrant broth. There are plenty of places to try it, but for something special take a short trip east to visit Goyashiki. This atmospheric restaurant is housed in a 250-year-old residence, nationally designated as a Tangible Cultural Property. You can enjoy top-tier handmade udon, à la carte dishes and kaiseki.

Feeling inspired to see more of Japan?

Plan your cultural visit to Japan’s less visited cities today.

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Wildlife watching in the Galapagos Islands https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/wildlife-watching-in-the-galapagos-islands/ Fri, 29 Mar 2024 00:00:00 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/inspiration/wildlife-watching-in-the-galapagos-islands/ The Galápagos Islands' unique wildlife, untouched islands and incredible natural beauty never fail to disappoint...

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Johnny Depp was winking at me. OK, it wasn’t actually the actor who plays Captain Jack. And he bore little resemblance to any type of sparrow. Rather, he was a magnificent frigatebird – the pirate of the skies – with glossy black plumage, a long hooked beak and a patch of red on his neck that would no doubt inflate when he was trying to impress the Keira Knightleys of the frigatebird world.

Earlier in the day I had watched the aerobatics above Genovesa Island as these opportunistic bird-buccaneers harassed and chased other birds, trying to steal either their food or nesting materials. Not that there was any honour among thieves – once a frigatebird had successfully stolen something, that frigate would, in turn, be pursued relentlessly by its comrades.

 

(Simon Chubb)

 

And there was plenty of opportunity for thievery. Down below, just behind the dazzling coral sand of Darwin Bay, was a city of birds, all living cheek by jowl – or bill to wing. The bushes were full of frigatebirds with sex, rather than kleptomania, on their minds, the males all trying to attract the ladies by displaying their puffed-up scarlet throat patches. There were also red-footed boobies, either nesting or feeding youngsters, while handsome Nazca boobies looked on superiorly. On the sandy earth, gulls passed each other pieces of coral as part of their courtship ritual.

They were all crammed so close together that when one red-footed booby flew in to feed its youngster, four open beaks from neighbouring nests craned forward asking for food. The booby fed one, but then seemed to have doubts as to whether that was really its off spring, and switched its attentions to a different eager baby.

The Galápagos Islands never disappoint. I have been fortunate enough to have visited before, yet every day of every visit brings new gripping dramas. And the uniqueness and diversity of the animals is still a surprise. The size and variety of the giant tortoises that the archipelago is named after; the penguins (on the equator!); the flightless cormorants; the prehistoric-looking iguanas that are specially adapted to eat underwater… the list goes on and on.

The art of being ignored

I was on a seven-night cruise on the MY Letty, a 25m motor-yacht with only ten cabins. We were taking the western/northern route through the archipelago. Each island is different – not just in its wildlife, but in its vegetation, its topography, even the colour of its sand. Genovesa was our first stop.

Genovesa is a small island with a horseshoe-shaped bay – the remains of a collapsed volcanic caldera – and is known for its prolific birdlife. However, the birds paid us no mind as they went about their everyday activity; they were totally oblivious to us even if we were only a foot or two away.

 

(Simon Chubb)

 

No matter how many times you visit the Galápagos, it is still a shock to find how you are ignored by the animals. Boarding the Letty at San Cristóbal we had laughed at the sea lions that snoozed on benches and lay across gangways as if they owned them. Here on Genovesa it felt as if we were watching a wildlife documentary on a giant screen, as little tableaux were played out in front of us: the intimacy of a male Nazca booby offering a twig to his mate for approval; a cliff top of thousands of wedge-rumped storm petrels in flight in a relentless search for food; a camouflaged short-eared owl, suddenly striking that cliff top, then appearing with a petrel in its talons.

In the aptly named Darwin Bay, we also had our first snorkelling experience. The Letty carries wetsuits and snorkelling equipment, and there was always at least one opportunity a day to slip into the underwater world. Depending on where we were, we shared the waves with sea lions, white-tipped sharks, marine iguanas, turtles, flightless cormorants, a whole plethora of fish and even penguins.

Back on board, even the long cruises between islands were a wildlife-spotting opportunity. We would often be followed by frigatebirds, which swirled over our boat and came down to rest on the railings and upper canopy. Dolphins would sometimes play in our bow waves. One day we spotted a humpback whale.

Darwin woz ’ere

The Galápagos was discovered in 1535 by the Bishop of Panama, who named it after the saddlebacked giant tortoises he found – galápago meaning ‘saddle’. The archipelago became a hideout for buccaneers who found sheltered bays and plentiful food. The poor tortoises were ruthlessly exploited by sailors for the next three centuries.

Of course, the islands have become synonymous with Charles Darwin, who spent just five weeks here in 1835. After years of pondering, he finally developed his theory of natural selection, in part inspired by what he had seen in the Galápagos.

When we arrived at Isabela – the archipelago’s biggest island– we moored at Tagus Cove, which has provided a sheltered anchorage for pirates over the centuries, and where Darwin’s Beagle once anchored too, in search of fresh water. As I kayaked around the bay I was aware that Darwin would have seen the same view, including ancestors of the penguins and flightless cormorants. Graffiti – the names of ships that have taken shelter here – covers the cliffs; I wondered if Darwin had read any of these scribbles.

Despite the large numbers of tourists that visit the Galápagos today, plus the local population (four of the islands are inhabited), boat landings are so well controlled that you only occasionally see other groups. On the Letty, the crew tried to ensure that we landed at a site at the optimum and quietest time.

 

(Simon Chubb)

 

This was much appreciated. After all, there is something special about walking on a beach with no other footprints, and a morning landing at Bachas Bay, on Santa Cruz, provided just that. Not that it was pristine – turtle tracks led to the top of the beach, and back down, so a female had presumably laid her eggs in the night. Mysterious thin lines crossed the sand; their source was revealed when a marine iguana headed past, its tail leaving the tell-tale groove in the sand.

The rocks that scattered the shore were alive with Sally Lightfoot crabs of all sizes. Some were black, well camouflaged on the lava. Yet the biggest crabs were the more traditional red. “It is to attract the female crabs,” said our guide, Ceci.

The rockpools were full of life too. In one, a tiny octopus was trying to find somewhere to hide; fish of different sizes were being deposited by the tide into another, larger pool. A heron stood sentinel on one set of rocks, while a pelican cleaned itself on another.

We headed to the top of the beach, where stakes marked several turtle nests. The eggs lie here for two months before the babies hatch and make their rush for the sea. A brackish lake sat just behind the beach, and three flamingos of startling coral-pink danced in its waters, churning up the mud with their feet to find food. It was an idyllic spot, but paradise always has a flipside. In this case it was the voracious horse-flies, which showed no mercy as they bit our tender flesh.

That afternoon, we landed on the island again but close to Dragon Hill. Heavy rain clouds hung as we walked, and this part of the island had certainly seen recent rain, as green vegetation was emerging from the ground and the palo santo trees were beginning to bud. Although it was supposedly the end of the rainy season, the year had been incredibly dry – bad news for the terrestrial animals. So this recent rain was welcomed.

 

(Simon Chubb)

 

We spotted a large land iguana eating the new vegetation. “This is beautiful, I am so happy for him. A month ago there was no green here at all,” smiled Ceci. When food is scarce the iguanas eat prickly pears but they have to wait for a pad to drop off. The iguana had a reddish tinge on its otherwise yellow skin. “That’s a sign he is ready to mate,” said Ceci. “With food now around, they’re going to take the opportunity.”

Living with lizards

If the huge iguanas are impressive, the marine iguanas are even more extraordinary and unique. The next day, we landed on the island of Fernandina in the cool of early morning. A strong smell assaulted our noses, and the source soon revealed itself: hundreds of marine iguanas, laying prone, heating themselves up in the sun, warming one side first, and then the other. They need to be warm before they can go into the sea on their search for algae, their favoured food. They looked like small dinosaurs as they lounged across the trails and rocks; we had to watch where we walked.

The waters off Fernandina are rich in nutrients, leading to an abundance of algae, and resulting in larger iguanas than those we had seen elsewhere. It is believed that the iguanas originally arrived here on rafts of vegetation and gradually evolved to eat algae due to a shortage of other food. They have developed large claws for clinging to the rocks, and their black colour means they warm up faster once on land. They have also developed a desalination gland – they sneeze out excess salt.

“These animals aren’t found anywhere else,” Ceci explained. “They are unique. And they are the only gregarious reptile in the world. They are my favourite animal. If I had a chance to rename these islands I’d call them after the marine iguanas, not after the tortoises!” Darwin dismissed marine iguanas as ugly, but maybe he would have developed his theory of evolution a bit sooner if he had taken a more appreciative look at them.

(Simon Chubb)

 

Further along, nesting on the rocks above high tide, were some more unique creatures: flightless cormorants. There are only around 2,000 of the birds left, as their numbers have been decimated on other islands by feral cats and dogs. “This is one of the most pristine islands in the world,” explained Ceci, before filling us with cormorant factoids: how they can dive over 30m underwater, and how the females squabble over a male, which then selects the one he thinks is strongest.

Watch where you tread

Despite being the world’s top wildlife destination and a living museum of evolution, the Galápagos Islands face constant threats. Introduced species can have a devastating affect on native species, by eating the wildlife, eating the vegetation it depends on or by carrying harmful parasites. Millions of dollars have been spent on eradication programmes, but the struggle goes on.

On Fernandina, nature was playing tricks with us. What looked like a large jagged lump of lava turned out to be a rock smothered in marine iguanas. What looked like driftwood was a snoozing sea lion. We had to divert for the latter. “I’ll step over a marine iguana but not a sea lion!” Ceci explained. A Galápagos hawk sat on some driftwood just feet away, so still that it took a while to realise it wasn’t a branch.

An area of shells and urchin spikes turned out to be the result of ground uplift during a volcanic eruption. “The most recent activity was in 2009. We visited here that morning – it was a clear day, not a cloud in the sky,” said Ceci. “And then we saw a strange cloud over the volcano – the volcano erupting. But it erupted down the other side, not in this direction.”

Nose to beak

On our last full day we revisited Santa Cruz, the most populated island, and drove up into the misty highlands. Giant tortoises roam free in the farmland here, and every now and then what looked like a boulder in a field would move. We stopped at a farm that welcomes visitors to its trails, and within a few minutes came eyeball to eyeball with two huge tortoises eating grass in a meadow. We fell into a respectful silence and ensured we did not stand in front of them, blocking their route. But they were unfazed by our presence, and the only noise other than the click of cameras, was the surprisingly loud chomping of grass.

I could understand why our guide was more impressed by the extraordinary marine iguanas. But, heck, the giant tortoises are fantastic and peculiar too. That evening, onboard the boat, we quizzed each other about our highlights. Nearly everything we had seen – the tortoises, the penguins, the land iguanas, the marine iguanas, the three types of booby – had its champion. There had been less obvious appealing characters too, such as the many fish and other-worldly underwater life. I thought back to the unexpected sight of schools of golden rays that had bewitched us all during a sunset panga ride through a stand of mangroves.

But I also found myself smiling at the memory of a certain pirate of the sky, with its jaunty head and its saucy wink.

 

This article was first published in 2017 and updated in 2024. 

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Where to experience traditional Otavalo culture in Ecuador https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/where-to-experience-traditional-otavalo-culture-in-ecuador/ Sat, 16 Mar 2024 00:00:00 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/inspiration/where-to-experience-traditional-otavalo-culture-in-ecuador/ The Otavalo people of the Andes have kept their traditional festivals, dress and skills alive, offering visitors a rare glimpse of living pre-Columbian history

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Encompassing a sacred landscape of highland lakes, misty valleys and mighty volcanoes, Ecuador’s northern Imbabura Province is also the home of the indigenous Otavalo people. Their eponymous town is where you’ll find the most famous textile and craft market in South America. Bustling along to a soundtrack of keening panpipes, its Plaza de Ponchos market is a riot of rainbow-coloured blankets, wall hangings and fluffy alpaca jumpers, and it has been drawing in backpackers and tour buses since the 1980s.

On the stalls you’ll find men and women in their distinctive traditional dress chatting away in Kichwa, a legacy of the Inca empire that once imposed its rule here. Typically, women wear a white blouse embroidered with bright flowers, multiple strings of golden beads (walcas) around their neck, coral charms (maki watana) on their wrists to ward off evil spirits, and a shawl (fachalina). Two wraparound skirts (anacos) are tied at the waist with a pair of woven belts (fajas) and their hair is usually worn in a single ponytail, often braided with ribbon, while a felt hat or coloured cloth (humaguatarina) keeps off the sun.

Apart from on special occasions, few men wear the traditional Otavalo dress of a white shirt, calf-length white trousers, a dark poncho and white espadrilles (alpargatas), but most wear a felt hat and style their hair in a single braid at the back as a mark of identity and pride.

During June’s Inti Raymi festivities in Cotacachi, the town’s men dress in elaborately made cowboy costumes (Alamy)

Real Indigenous cowboys roam the hills across the Andes (Alamy)

The history of weaving wool here began well before the conquest of Ecuador that was led by Inca ruler Huayna Capac at the end of the 15th century. The Incas introduced alpaca wool and more elaborate weaving styles but were brutal rulers, then the Spanish arrived in the 16th century and local communities were forced to work for long hours in obrajes (sweatshops) to produce cloth that was exported throughout the Spanish Americas. Nowadays, many of the textiles on sale may be made using electric machines, but the most prized pieces are still created by hand in family workshops.

Renowned as traders, shrewd Otavalo entrepreneurs have successfully taken their handicrafts and music all over the world. Textiles, trade and now tourism have helped them maintain their traditions in a world where many Indigenous cultures are under threat.

A resurgent Indigenous pride over the last 30 years has seen local festivals swell in scope to include sporting events, concerts of Andean music and singing, and prizes for the most delicious market food, such as hornado (whole roast hog) served with crackling, mote (hominy corn) and llapingachos (mashed-potato patties). Many families who once left these valleys to seek their fortunes abroad now return specifically during festival time to re-immerse themselves in the rich culture.

Here are six places to experience traditional Otavalo culture in Ecuador

1. Join the fiesta

The Otavalo people’s ties to their ancient Andean cosmovision, a worldview that was shared by many of the pre-Columbian peoples of Mesoamerica, is best seen at festivals following the Inca calendar. In the town of Peguche, Pawkar Raymi (Flower Blossom Festival) is held in February or March to thank Pachamama, the Earth Mother, for a good harvest. In Otavalo, Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun) is a full-on fiesta of flute music, dance and feasting in June. And in September, fermented corn beer (chicha de jora) takes centre stage at La Fiesta del Yamor.

2. Visit the sacred waterfall of Peguche

Peguche is a small town famous for its weaving workshops and the Cascadas de Peguche, a series of waterfalls considered sacred. To prepare for Inti Raymi, hundreds of Otavalo men come to the falls at midnight to wash away troubles and purify their souls in the company of a yachak (shaman). These rituals are not for gawkers. At all other times, visitors can enjoy the cool spray from the 18m-high cascade.

3. See condors fly

In Andean myth, the high-flying condor is revered as a messenger to Inti, the sun. Sadly, there are now fewer than 100 wild condors in the Ecuadorian Andes and they are classified as endangered. At the hillside Parque Cóndor, near Otavalo, you can get up close to two rescued condors and a harpy eagle, as well as see falconry displays by hawks and owls. Run by a non-profit foundation that aims to foster a greater appreciation of these birds, the park offers incredible views of Imbabura and Cotacachi volcanoes and Cuicocha Lake

4. Spend time with a local family

Tour company Runa Tupari (runatupari.com) works with Indigenous communities around Otavalo and Cotacachi to offer immersive cultural experiences, alongside hiking, cycling and horse-riding trips. Homestays are with families that have built cosy ‘lodges’ kitted out with hot water and a fireplace. Guests get a taste of family life, feeding chickens and guinea pigs, gathering herbs and vegetables from the garden to prepare meals, and eating with their hosts. Typically run by women, homestays are a great way of bringing the financial benefits of tourism to remote communities while promoting and preserving traditional crafts.

5. Meet Cotacachi’s cowboys

If Otavalo is all about weaving, Cotacachi is dedicated to leather. Stalls selling belts, cowboy boots, saddles and a boggling array of knick-knacks line Calle de Cuero (Leather Street), and many of the workshops are happy for visitors to pop in and see how cow, goat and llama hides are made into leather. The town’s cowboy theme extends to Inti Raymi, when men from different communities don oversized cardboard stetsons, furry leather chaps and horse whips for a rumbunctious zapateado (stomping) dance-off aimed at waking up the Pachamama.

6. Hike a living landscape

Local legend, involving the Imbabura and Cotacachi volcanoes and the crater lakes of Mojanda, tells of Taita Imbabura (Father Imbabura), who was a mighty warrior that fought Mojanda for the love of Mama Cotacachi. He was so worn out by his wooing that the stones he lobbed at Mojanda fell short, scattering the land. It is also said that Cerro Yanahurco, a hill that nestles in the skirts of Cotacachi, is Imbabura’s son. The hike to the summit of Imbabura is not technical but takes four hours. An easier trek is the mini volcano Fuya Fuya (Mist Mist in Kichwa), which takes only two hours and affords fine views of the Mojanda lakes from the top.

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First time in Antartica https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/first-time-antarctica-2/ Wed, 13 Mar 2024 13:56:55 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=66727 Antarctica

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Antarctica

View the story

First time in

Antarctica

With visitor numbers rising on the White Continent, many people are now experiencing it for the first time. We sent our own Antarctic novice to see what they can expect

Words & photographs George Kipouros

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The mountainous landscape of the Antarctic Peninsula is something to behold

The mountainous landscape of the Antarctic Peninsula is something to behold

Many penguin species raise their chicks from December to January

Many penguin species raise their chicks from December to January

Land, at last. A dense fog afforded only glimpses of an ethereal landscape of snow, ice and rock. An unmistakable sense of achievement flooded over me; one of those moments in travel when you feel more alive than ever. After all, this was the White Continent that lay ahead of us, the most remote and inaccessible landmass on the planet.

For most travellers attempting to reach West Antarctica, the quickest way is by sailing a narrow stretch of sea where the Atlantic entangles with the Pacific and the Southern Ocean. It is rarely smooth going, and only possible in the warmer months. But after two challenging days crossing the infamous Drake Passage, whose strong winds and rough seas are the stuff of legend, we were approaching Elephant Island, some 250km off the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.

The continent’s inaccessibility, coupled with weather conditions so harsh that life really shouldn’t exist here, has always been part of its mystique. Against all odds, a unique endemic ecosystem has thrived for millennia. It’s no wonder that Antarctica has overtaken human imagination ever since Aristotle first theorised its existence in the 4th century BC. He saw that the north lay under the constellation Arktos (the Great Bear/Ursa Major), and surmised the existence of a mirror image of the world he knew, a giant southern landmass he called Antarktos (opposite of the north).

It was a long time between then and when Captain James Cook became the first recorded navigator to cross the Antarctic Circle in January 1773; and longer still before Roald Amundsen became the first to reach the South Pole in December 1911. Their stories, as well as many other heroic tales of human perseverance, endurance and disaster, have only furthered the myths that swirl the White Continent as freely as the wind.

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Petermann Island, named after a German geographer in the late 1800s, is home to one of the southernmost colonies of gentoo penguins in the world

Petermann Island, named after a German geographer in the late 1800s, is home to one of the southernmost colonies of gentoo penguins in the world

Just off the Antarctic Peninsula lies Iceberg Alley, a graveyard of ice where huge ’bergs escaping Antarctica begin to melt and take on very different forms, some even pocked with naturally formed geometric caves

Just off the Antarctic Peninsula lies Iceberg Alley, a graveyard of ice where huge ’bergs escaping Antarctica begin to melt and take on very different forms, some even pocked with naturally formed geometric caves

This is more than just a bucket-list destination; even setting foot here is to join some of humanity’s greatest explorers in reaching one of the most inhospitable corners of our planet. So it was only fitting that we had arrived at Elephant Island on the day of the 101st anniversary of the death of Ernest Shackleton, one of the greatest explorers to chart the continent. It was here that he had left his crewmates to go in search of rescue after their ship, Endurance, had been crushed by the polar ice.

Shackleton’s crew had used the island as their own personal larder, eating penguins and seals to survive. We had far more benign intentions, so had gathered in the amphitheatre of our ship, Silver Cloud, for a mandatory briefing on what we could and couldn’t do during our time here, based on guidelines set out by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO).

“This is a fragile ecosystem under extreme threat from climate change and human activities, so we have to tread very carefully,” began Schalk Botha, our South Africa-born expedition leader, before outlining the numerous rules and regulations aimed at protecting the fauna and landscape.

Prophetically, Schalk also went to great lengths to explain how unpredictable our time on the continent would be: “The weather changes every second, and that means our plans may too. You need to be prepared for changes, even when we are on the ground or in the middle of an activity.”

He also finished the opening session with a warning: “Antarctica is the highest, driest, windiest and coldest continent in the world, so dress and behave accordingly!”

I was buzzing with excitement. I was finally about to begin exploring this continent of superlatives.

The unpredictable chronicles

Soon after the briefing ended, we got our first taste of what would become a frequent pattern over the next 12 days.

“Our Zodiac tour of Elephant Island has to be cancelled due to high winds causing waves over 3m high, which are expected to worsen,” boomed Schalk over the internal PA.

Antarctica’s unpredictable weather is why we didn’t have a set itinerary before boarding. Instead, in an approach reminiscent of the days of the early explorers, a printed journal (The Daily Chronicles) was delivered, featuring an outline of the following day’s ‘intended’ activities and plans.

The next morning, however, we arrived at Brown Bluff on the Tabarin Peninsula to even worse conditions. Schalk went on the intercom again to announce the cancellation of the landing – the first planned mainland excursion. Every part of my body was itching to get ashore; Antarctica’s frozen wonders were waiting just outside my veranda.

“Antarctica is the highest, driest, windiest and coldest continent in the world”

This was my first time ever on a cruise ship, not least an expedition ship, and I had chosen the Silver Cloud, the original vessel of luxury operator Silversea. In truth, I had been wary of becoming restless with all the time spent at sea, but to my surprise, there wasn’t a moment that I was bored, and my simple anti-nausea ginger pills worked wonders. Not only was the satellite-powered free wifi reliable, but the food in the four restaurants was exquisite, as was the gym and complimentary spa facilities. Yet it wasn’t any of these elements that made the all-suite Silver Cloud truly luxurious. That honour derived from the 35 scientists, historians and naturalists who joined us on the expedition.

During our sail across the Drake Passage, and upon every cancelled activity, we received insightful lectures introducing us to all aspects of the continent, ranging from early explorer history and underwater geology to marine biology and the impact of climate change. But I had not come all the way down to the Scotia Sea just to attend a series of talks, and the real prize remained stepping ashore in the company of our experienced lecturers.

A leopard seal – one of the most prolific predators of penguins in Antarctic waters – belies its fierce reputation by taking it easy on a pack of floating ice in Hope Bay

A leopard seal – one of the most prolific predators of penguins in Antarctic waters – belies its fierce reputation by taking it easy on a pack of floating ice in Hope Bay

In the afternoon of our fourth day spent onboard, Antarctica’s weather started to behave and we finally got our first taste of the continent’s true magnificence in Hope Bay. As my 12-strong Zodiac group departed the Silver Cloud, the actual clouds and haze suddenly cleared to reveal a panorama of peaks, glaciers and icebergs. This was a landscape unlike anything I’d seen before, and even more wondrous than my visits to the Arctic region.

Complementing the fantastical landscape was an unexpected highlight: a leopard seal enjoying the sunshine on top of a small iceberg. Just as we gently approached, it yawned, allowing us a fearful glimpse of its massive jaws. This elusive animal is among the most dangerous predators to be found in these waters, second only to the mighty orca.

This Zodiac tour was just the prelude though, as the following day we at last achieved our first landing, on an island in Curtiss Bay. It started with a bang and my first chance to come face to face with Antarctica’s most famous residents: penguins, specifically the gentoo species.

A lecture the night before by naturalist Damon Ramsey had introduced us to the different species of penguin, including the three we were expecting to see: gentoo, adélie and chinstrap. I also discovered that the most photogenic species, the emperor penguin, was rarely found on the Antarctic Peninsula, the most accessible tip of the continent.

While I couldn’t wait for my first penguin encounter, leaving the ship was a time-consuming process. Preparing for the continent’s harsh weather meant putting on multiple layers of clothing and gear, starting with insulated thermal underwear and continuing all the way up to the mandatory lifejacket and heavy-duty boots. Getting ready took me almost 20 minutes on my first endeavour, improving to a personal best of six minutes on my final outing. Before and after, great care was taken to sterilise our boots, so we would not transfer any of our pathogens onto Antarctica – or bring any of the penguin poo back onboard.

“We heard stories of endurance and survival, and not just tales of the early adventurers”

Our very first landing was also the most challenging of the trip. The crew formed a human chain to help guests from the Zodiacs across the rocky and slippery coastline.

“It’s worth it. Keep going; you’re safe and we’re holding on to you,” encouraged Nil Rodes, the ship’s marine geoscientist, as he cheered on a younger guest who was a little uncertain of whether she could make it ashore.

“If we are not 100% sure of everyone’s safety, Schalk will always cancel the landing,” affirmed Nil. He told me that it also comes down to every individual’s comfort levels. Before each landing, we were given a thorough description of what we would encounter and the level of difficulty; it was up to each passenger to decide whether they would join or not. By this point, I would happily have skipped barefoot across the ice to set foot on land or glimpse its wildlife.

Amiable gentoo penguins roam freely around the base at Port Lockroy and show little fear of the various humans who turn up there

Amiable gentoo penguins roam freely around the base at Port Lockroy and show little fear of the various humans who turn up there

A gang of curious gentoos swim alongside a boat as it pulls into Curtiss Bay (Alamy Stock Photo)

A gang of curious gentoos swim alongside a boat as it pulls into Curtiss Bay (Alamy Stock Photo)

The author said it takes a while to get kitted up before disembarking

The author said it takes a while to get kitted up before disembarking

Penguins stick to their self-made penguin highways

Penguins stick to their self-made penguin highways

The penguin affair

“Your first encounter with penguins is something you’ll remember for the rest of your life,” smiled Nil as we walked towards the rookery and its hundreds of birds.

Penguins are at their best in the water, and often appear rather imbalanced, if not downright clumsy, on land. It seemed as if they were really struggling to be there.

“That is why they stick to their self-made penguin highways,” explained Nil, showing the paths that they formed by following each other’s trails.

One can watch penguins for hours and never see a single moment of stillness. They also do not perceive humans as a threat; they just keep going about their own business no matter what. We witnessed how they built their pebble nests, and saw their attempts at stealing pebbles from each other.

“They are simply recycling,” smiled Nil. I was unconvinced their cheeky behaviour was truly benevolent.

Added to the list of things I wasn’t expecting from my first penguin encounter was the horrible smell. It was especially potent when approaching a rookery, and unlike anything I’d come across before. “Eau d’Antarctica” is how a fellow traveller described it. The mix of vomit (how they feed their chicks) and penguin poop made for a scent that belied the overall cuteness of everything else that they did.

The gentoos of Petermann Island are far from camera shy

The gentoos of Petermann Island are far from camera shy

On Petermann Island the following day, we saw adélie and gentoo penguins. It was also our first sighting of elephant seals, whose lethargic nature was at odds with the bustling and noisy penguin rookery they rested beside.

I spent some time observing these seals do nothing but occasionally yawn, unfussed by our presence. That wouldn’t have always been the case, as we were to find out at that evening’s lecture by Damon. At the peak of the seal-hunting era, elephant seals were prized for their oil, and their numbers were reduced to the brink of extinction in many locations across Antarctica during the late 19th century.

A Zodiac powers through the waters of the Antarctic Peninsula

A Zodiac powers through the waters of the Antarctic Peninsula

After little more than an hour, our visit came to a swift end. Landings for each Zodiac group were rarely more than an hour and a half long in total. There is an airport-style slot-booking system that every vessel must adhere to, with very little flexibility for last-minute changes. Due to the boom in Antarctic tourism over the previous decade, slots for popular landing spots are booked months in advance.

Another reason for our quick departure was because we were on a mission. The ship was hurrying to make its way further south so that we could cross the 66th parallel, otherwise known as the Antarctic Circle. Not many vessels travel so far down the peninsula. I was grateful we did, since our single stop beyond the Circle proved to be my highlight of the trip.

A Weddell seal rests on the ice around Detaille Island, which is so far south that it lies beyond the Antarctic Circle

A Weddell seal rests on the ice around Detaille Island, which is so far south that it lies beyond the Antarctic Circle

Human perseverance

Detaille Island (at 66°52’ S) was the Antarctica of my imagination, and the White Continent in microcosm. After an easy landing and a short walk up a snow-covered hill, the vista beyond opened to a majestic scene of more than 20 Weddell seals resting on icebergs of every size and colour. We encountered hundreds of gentoo and chinstrap penguins (there were at least five rookeries in the area), and over our heads flew myriad endemic birds.

Added to the atmospheric setting was an abandoned scientific hut, framing the glorious natural landscape. My senses were drawn in every direction, and yet all I wanted to do was sit still and take in the otherworldly landscape.

On our return to the ship, a celebratory activity had been planned. About 60 of the Silver Cloud’s 196 guests were getting ready for a much-anticipated polar plunge from the landing deck. At a balmy 1.5ºC, the water in Antarctica was too cold for my Mediterranean skin. Instead, I wished my fellow passengers luck as I took in their shrieks wrapped up in my thermal jacket. This ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ experience ended Silversea-style with either a choice selection of premium Champagnes or the ship’s signature hot ginger tea medley, offered according to the level of each guest’s shivers.

Antarctica was delivering on its promise of big adventures, otherworldly nature and spectacular wildlife. Yet I was curious to learn more about how humans fitted into this harsh environment. Prior to my trip, I was aware that, due to Covid-19 restrictions, it would not be possible to visit any working scientific stations. But, as luck would have it, two special ‘hitchhikers’ had made it onboard the Silver Cloud, joining us from the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust.

We met Sven Habermann and Martin Herrmann in the lecture theatre, where they introduced us to the work of the Trust, which looks after six historic sites built on the peninsula between the 1940s and ’70s. We heard not just tales of the early adventurers, but stories of endurance and survival that went all the way up to the mid-20th-century expeditions – part of humanity’s quest to explore and understand this mysterious continent.

We dropped Sven and Martin off at Damoy Point so they could repair and maintain the historic Damoy Hut over a period of two months. This meant that we also got the unique opportunity to visit this usually off-the-itinerary site.

Welcoming us inside the hut was Mila Lassuy, our onboard history and archaeology lecturer, who explained the many challenges of surviving an Antarctic winter and how each building was created to withstand the extreme conditions. Damoy Hut, much like the one we had visited on Detaille Island, felt like a real-life time capsule from the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, complete with unopened cans and provisions for surviving the long Antarctic winter.

Continuing our search for human presence in Antarctica, we set sail for Port Lockroy, a wondrous natural harbour off Wiencke Island. An Antarctic base of the same name lies in the bay on Goudier Island, best known for hosting the most southerly working post office in the world. Managed by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust, it received over 16,000 visitors last season, many eager to mail a letter from Antarctica. My London-bound postcards took just a month to arrive.

Weddell seals can dive underwater for up to 80 minutes at a time, which is perhaps why this one is so sleepy

Weddell seals can dive underwater for up to 80 minutes at a time, which is perhaps why this one is so sleepy

A polar plunge at 66 degrees south

A polar plunge at 66 degrees south

Cans of old food scatter the interior of Damoy Hut like a domestic time capsule

Cans of old food scatter the interior of Damoy Hut like a domestic time capsule

Mila examines Damoy Hut

Mila examines Damoy Hut

The team at the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust shop and post office at Port Lockroy

The team at the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust shop and post office at Port Lockroy

Iceberg adventures

As we turned around and started to head back north, we arrived at a location known as Iceberg Alley, or Iceberg Graveyard – a site so breathtaking that I had a hard time believing it was one of many similar locations found across the continent. We glided past a kaleidoscope of different types of iceberg, the most frequent being the glacier ’berg (most would fall into this category of irregular shapes). Yet we were also lucky enough to see some excellent examples of tabular bergs, crowned with a flat top, as well as a few domed varieties, which were smooth and rounded.

The scale, the volume, the colours – everything about Iceberg Alley conjured superlatives. This was one of the most stimulating boat rides I’d experienced, and worth every second of the bone-rattling ‘Drake Shake’ I’d endured to reach the peninsula.

Taking a Zodiac through the floe of Iceberg Alley can be a treacherous task, as you never know when these giant ’bergs will calve into the ocean

Taking a Zodiac through the floe of Iceberg Alley can be a treacherous task, as you never know when these giant ’bergs will calve into the ocean

It was even better for those who took a kayak trip instead of the standard Zodiac ride. The immediacy of the connection with the icebergs was thrilling, although more dangerous. Lots of attention was required, as these ’bergs could capsize at any second and without warning.

That same evening we were treated to a good dozen humpback and minke whale sightings as the ship continued cruising towards Neko Bay. I was among ten or so passengers braving ice-cold gasps of air and trying to spot spouts and tails in the water from the observation deck.

Neko Harbour was the last possible landing on the actual continental shelf of Antarctica – all of our previous excursions had been on islands lying off the continental landmass. However, strong winds had added another location to the – by now rather long – list of cancelled landings.

“We are not particularly lucky with the weather this time,” confirmed Schalk while announcing the latest cancellation

Our arrival at Cuverville Island the next day was marked yet again by heavy snowfall but, helpfully, no winds.

Kayakers paddle past the chinstraps of Cuverville Island, which sits at the entrance to the Errera Channel

Kayakers paddle past the chinstraps of Cuverville Island, which sits at the entrance to the Errera Channel

“This is unusual, and so unseasonal,” explained Damon, looking worried and explaining that these kind of conditions didn’t typically start until March; we were only in January. “Climate change is really affecting the polar regions, and nowhere is this more visible than in Antarctica.”

The accelerated retreat of the Antarctic ice sheet has been – rightly so – high on the news agenda recently. But it’s not often that you get to study the real-time effects this closely.

“The ecosystem here is so fragile that even the slightest change in weather patterns can have significant results on the local wildlife,” explained Damon, pointing to the penguin nests, in which many eggs had been destroyed by a combination of the weather and predators. “This will be a bad year for penguin chicks. The ones that have not hatched are unlikely to do so,” he explained, which made the sight of the penguins still looking after eggs a difficult one.

Some chinstrap penguins and their newborn chicks scramble across the rocks

Some chinstrap penguins and their newborn chicks scramble across the rocks

As if in response to the heavier snowfall, we witnessed penguin couples squabble and croon at one another. There was plenty of bowing and examples of movements that seemingly helped reinforce their bond.

“Some of these are mating courtship rituals,” explained Damon. I asked whether it was true that penguins were monogamous. “Mating for life is a bit of a myth; they will generally come back from the breeding cycle and, if needed, choose a new partner,” Damon clarified. Watching these birds speed-dating on the ice, it was reassuring that even the unseasonal weather could do little to cool their enthusiasm.

Popular isolation

As we continued our voyage towards the South Shetlands, and eventually the Drake Passage once more, we had an altogether different type of encounter: a humongous cruise-liner with what looked like 300 decks and 3,000 passengers was racing ahead of us. It was the first time during my voyage that I had seen any vessel other than the Silver Cloud.

“There are approximately 40 ships in the vicinity of our area,” explained Captain Andriy Domanin in the Silver Cloud’s Italian restaurant that evening. “It is a carefully choreographed dance that we need to perform. It takes a lot of planning to avoid them meeting each other.”

When Captain Domanin started coming to Antarctica in 1993, there were about four ships making the journey each season; “Now there are over 50,” he told me. “Yet it’s almost as if we all pretend that we’re the only ones in Antarctica,” smiled the captain.

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Visitor numbers to Antarctica are ever growing, but a conversation around sustainability is being had

Visitor numbers to Antarctica are ever growing, but a conversation around sustainability is being had

Petermann Island, named after a German geographer in the late 1800s, is home to one of the southernmost colonies of gentoo penguins in the world

Petermann Island, named after a German geographer in the late 1800s, is home to one of the southernmost colonies of gentoo penguins in the world

We were certainly not alone. During the 2022/2023 summer season when I visited, the IAATO estimates that the number of visitors topped 100,000. There is a very pertinent discussion to be had about the impact of growing visitor numbers on the White Continent – how many ships and how many passengers can it support without significant damage to its fragile ecosystem? The IAATO regulations were not thought out with big tourism numbers in mind. And while its basic framework is applicable to visitors, the time is up for finding a new, stricter and more considerate approach vis-à-vis the growing demand.

“The IAATO estimates that the number of visitors to Antarctica topped 100,000 last season”

As we approached the southern entrance of the Beagle Channel in Chile, a majestic wandering albatross made a stunning, and quite rare, appearance. At around 3.5m from one wingtip to the other, it boasts the biggest wingspan of any bird in the world, and like us, it was headed to warmer climes, gliding almost effortlessly. It too was no doubt grateful for also getting the ‘Drake Lake’ treatment – as the passage is called when the wind and conditions are mild.

This albatross will return to Antarctica time and again, despite the harsh weather. I would like to come back too, but only on a small cruise ship. The raw majesty and superlatives of this continent are too precious to share, and the thought of overtourism here is an alarming one. I envied the early explorers and their unobstructed views – if not their rations – and thought about how the local wildlife had adapted to the toughest conditions on Earth. It would be a tragedy if the one thing that this land couldn’t survive was people

About the trip

The author travelled with Silversea on a 12-day cruise from Puerto Williams to the Antarctic Peninsula and back aboard the Silver Cloud. The trip includes all flights, transfers, meals and excursions.

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Why Australia should be your next safari holiday https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/why-australia-should-be-your-next-safari-holiday/ Fri, 08 Mar 2024 09:44:24 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=67899 Discover luxurious lodges and abundant wildlife in South Australia and Western Australia with Travel Nation

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Discover luxurious lodges and abundant wildlife in South Australia and Western Australia with Travel Nation

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Why Australia should be your next safari holiday

Discover luxurious lodges and abundant wildlife in South Australia and Western Australia with Travel Nation

With its lush native forests, sweeping deserts, fertile farmlands and coastlines stretching for thousands of miles, Australia is laced with extraordinary nature. It is the only place in the world, for example, where marsupial species – such as the much-loved koala and kangaroo and the lesser-known quokka and bandicoot – can be found in the wild. Resident marine life such as fur seals, sea lions and dolphins call these nutrient-rich coastlines home, and migratory species – from whale sharks to humpbacks – cross oceans to breed in Australia’s temperate waters.

Taking the road less travelled means there are unforgettable nature encounters to enjoy at every turn. With Perth being the only Australian city providing direct flights to and from the UK, Travel Nation offers tailor-made and multi-stop itineraries spanning Western Australia and from Adelaide into regional South Australia. For those embarking on a safari here, locally-owned and run luxury accommodation adds comfort and community to every experience.

Conservation action is engrained into the Australian way of life, meaning each experience is carefully crafted as small group, low impact tours that safeguard animals and their habitats. Even better, Travel Nation’s enlisted local guides – including local rangers, biologists, First Nations guides and local winemakers – combine both nature and heritage into every tour.

The Abundant Wildlife Safari


Tailor-made for wildlife enthusiasts, Travel Nation’s 19-day Australia wildlife holiday showcases the sheer abundance of iconic wildlife in Western Australia and South Australia. The adventure begins with a special encounter just an hour offshore from the capital, Perth – at Rottnest Island – where cycling and walking tours bring visitors up close to a rare marsupial called the quokka. Usually spotted foraging among the shady undergrowth, these small and shy creatures – approximately the size of a small cat – are only found around south-western Australia and have long-been vulnerable to extinction. They are easy to spot on Rottnest, where approximately 10,000 live on this spectacular nature reserve.

Stretching for 160 miles along the Western Australia coastline, Ningaloo Reef – the world’s largest fringing coral reef system – is home to resident marine life such as bottlenose dolphins and hawksbill turtles. Between June and October, however, the region’s sheltered bays draw in thousands of humpback whales as they migrate north along Western Australia’s whale “superhighway”. The outer reef, meanwhile, welcomes one of the largest gatherings of gentle whale sharks in the world. The 12-metre giants arrive between April and July, to feed on plankton found around the outer reef. At the same time, manta rays congregate in scores to feed and clean themselves in Ningaloo’s pristine waters.

Responsible snorkel and whale-watching tours, from Coral Bay and Exmouth, are consciously designed not to disturb these majestic creatures, with carefully observed distances and practices. Instead, education is key. As marine biologists shed light on the environment and behavioural patterns, feel the energy rush through your body as you slip into the water for a once-in-a-lifetime swim with a whale shark or manta ray – or watch in awe as a humpback whale tail-slaps and breaches just a few metres away.

Across the border in Baird Bay, South Australia, visitors are invited to don a wetsuit, mask and snorkel to swim with resident Australian sealions and bottlenose dolphins. Watch in awe as the sealions blow bubbles around you; twirling and dancing among the seaweed as they glide seamlessly through the crystal-clear water. The dolphins often frolic at a distance as you watch underwater. One of the most biodiverse habitats in South Australia is Flinders Chase National Park on Kangaroo Island, where slow-moving echidna and playful tammar wallabies can be found under the thickets. Remember to look up to spot the elusive koala, usually found snoozing among the eucalypt tree leaves, while the long-nosed fur seals are anything but shy as they sunbathe on the granite rocks of the southwest coastline.

Travel Nation’s expert local guides and rangers are on-hand to share their vast knowledge of the land and wildlife, with the reassurance that all native species are protected by rigid conservation practices. Timing is key, however, when looking for the majestic western grey kangaroo. Most likely to be sighted at sunrise and sunset along the red-dirt roads that snake through the park, these skittish animals aren’t very traffic savvy – so be sure to drive carefully.

The Luxurious Adventure Safari

Going on safari in South Australia and Western Australia doesn’t necessarily mean roughing it. In fact, those looking for a luxurious Down Under experience can rest assured that every spectacular wildlife encounter can be enjoyed in the most comfortable of settings on Travel Nation’s 17-day luxury holiday to South Australia and Western Australia.

With the COMO The Treasury – Perth’s most lavish hotel – as your base, take the one-hour ferry ride to Rottnest Island where you can meet famous quokkas. Following a day of island life, catch the short ferry back to Perth to indulge in the sumptuous offerings at COMO The Treasury’s rooftop Wildflower restaurant, which is inspired by the six inter-connected seasons of the Aboriginal Noongar calendar.

In the coastal town of Exmouth, the luxury tented camp of Sal Salis offers unparalleled views over the Cape Range National Park and is the gateway to Ningaloo Reef’s northern fringes. Naturalists lead walks into bush to see black-footed rock wallabies and wedge-tailed eagles, while marine biologists take you on snorkelling tours of the fringing reefs – just a few metres away from the doorstep of your luxury tent. Boat tours to swim with gentle whale sharks can be organised by the camp – with each encounter led by skilled guides who run ethical snorkel encounters. The camp’s far-flung location, and lack of light pollution, means it turns into a star-gazing haven at night. Watch the Milky Way come alive from the comfort of a private veranda.

Over in South Australia, the wineries of the Adelaide Hills welcome visitors to bespoke cellar door and restaurant experiences – each one showcasing the best of this quaint and verdant region through fresh, seasonal produce. A stay at Sequoia Lodge offers a rare insight into the local land and its people through immersive onsite activities – including Indigenous dreamtime storytelling, sunrise yoga sessions, nature walks, and tastings with local artisan winemakers. From here, it is a short drive to the Riverland – where traditional paddle-steamers, decorated in royal red and white, tour the Murray River. Guests can even embark on a dinghy excursion to explore the narrow reed-fringed wetlands to sight ibis, pelicans and whistling kites.

At Seal Bay on Kangaroo Island, local Rangers lead walking tours to Australia’s largest colony of endemic sealions – with talks focusing on sea lion behaviour and physiology. Meanwhile, wallabies, echidnas and goannas can be spotted scrambling through the bushland in Flinders Case National Park. Venturing deeper into the bush rewards visitors with secluded coves and pristine, white-sand beaches that lie beneath the park’s clifftops. Flinders Case National Park is also home to the Remarkable Rocks, granite boulders that took 500 million years to form from the natural elements.

The newly-renovated and ultra-luxurious Southern Ocean Lodge is unlike a lot of other luxury accommodation in Australia. Guests staying at Southern Ocean Lodge will enjoy a fine-dining, à la carte menu daily, which includes an open bar and carefully chosen local spirits and fine wines to choose from as well as a range of signature wildlife experiences throughout your stay. This is the perfect place to indulge your taste buds and wind down post safari.

As with all Travel Nation trips, luxury itineraries can be tailor-made to suit the specific interests of the guest – including the UK airport from which you travel.

The Epic Road Trip Safari

Begin this incredible 18-day Adelaide to Perth road trip, complete with a private guide and a driver, on a walking tour of the vibrant South Australian state capital, Adelaide, Australia’s National Park City and one of the Great Wine Capitals of the World. Visit one of the nearby beaches, just 15 minutes away, picturesque Adelaide Oval Cricket Ground and taste the locally-made organic jams, pickles, and artisan produce of the Adelaide Central Market. Of course, no stay in Adelaide would be complete without a visit to the region’s internationally treasured wine regions – there are over 200 cellar doors within one hour’s drive. The Adelaide Hills is just 15 minutes from the city and home to Penfolds Grange. You can also visit world-famous Barossa or McLaren Vale, guided by an expert, where intimate cellar-door tastings offer a flavour of the South Australian way of life.

The Eyre Peninsula is known as Australia’s seafood frontier and for its fertile agricultural lands. You can expect freshly-harvested fruit and vegetables, and endless mouthwatering seafood feasts of local Coffin Bay oysters, crayfish, prawns and scallops.

On arrival in the archipelago’s southernmost town, Port Lincoln, you will be met by an experienced Travel Nation guide – who will take you off-roading through the colossal sand dunes usually only navigated by locals. Go in search of koalas at nearby Mikkira Station and learn how to farm, pluck and shuck your own Pacific oysters at one of the area’s world-famous oyster farms in Coffin Bay.

With its sprawling white-sand beaches and crowd-free coves, the wild western coast of South Australia is a sight to behold. A morning boat ride and swim in the turquoise waters of Baird Bay is likely to bring you face-to-face with inquisitive Australian sea lions and playful bottlenose dolphins. Echidnas and Rosenberg goannas roam the roads of Coffin Bay National Park – while emus and western grey kangaroos are often seen feeding within the untamed public bushland.

Bidding farewell to the Eyre Peninsula, get ready to witness the changing landscapes of the Nullabor – the 90km stretch of road known as ‘Australia’s longest straight road’ that leads you into Western Australia. Watch as the scenery transforms from desert ochres and browns to the rusty reds of the Great Australian Bight.

Look out for breaching and tail-slapping southern right whales – sometimes visible in their scores – at the viewpoints along the way. The drive steers you along the southern coastline of Western Australia, taking in the picturesque Cape Le Grand National Park – where kangaroos sunbathe on the immaculate shores at Lucky Bay, boasting the whitest sand of any beach in Australia – and the towering 400-year-old red tingle eucalypt forests of Walpole. Inland, the wildflower meadows of the Stirling Ranges are a must-see during the spring months of October and November.

No privately guided road trip is complete without spending a day in the Margaret River Region, sampling delicious local produce – from wines and gins to platters of seafood, creamy cheeses, dates and figs. Over 200 wineries, breweries and eateries call this home – making it one of Australia’s most prized foodie regions.

Finally, to end this epic 18-day trip, a Welcome to Country ceremony, conducted by traditional custodians of the land, greets you in Perth and the Noongar lands – with the famed quokkas of Rottnest Island just a short ferry ride away.

The Train Lover’s Safari

Train, wine and wildlife lovers will want to embark on this epic 21-day Perth to Adelaide train holiday. Immerse yourself in Perth’s Noongar culture – listening to ancient stories, traditional songs and history lessons from Aboriginal guides in Kings Park or along the banks of Swan River – before heading south by car to the lush Karri forests of Pemberton, where you can hike among the trees to the soundtrack of the laughing kookaburra, or the humbler calls of the New Holland honeyeater.

Braver souls may even wish to take the 75-metre step-climb up one of these ancient hardwood trees for sensational views over the canopies. Further along the coast, People’s Bay Nature Reserves in Albany is home to the little-known Little Beach – a secluded white-sand cove known only to locals. The likelihood of having the beach to yourself is high – so make sure to have a swimming costume handy for a dip in these cool southern ocean waters.

Back on the western coastline, sip local wines and nibble on creamy cheeses, fresh crayfish spreads and truffles overlooking the Margaret River Region’s forests, beaches and vines, before returning to Perth on a 3-hour drive to meet the Indian Pacific train – which trundles into town just once a week. The two-day train journey from Perth to Adelaide takes you across 1,700 miles of outback – with just two stops in the rural towns of Kalgoorlie and Cook.

Traversing Western Australia and South Australia’s outback by rail gives insight to a rural way of life very few visitors get to see. Kalgoorlie – a town famous for its gold mines – has a population of 30,000, while tiny Cook is home to just a handful of people. As the journey unfolds, sit back and soak up the views across the rust-coloured setting of the Nullabor Plains – looking out for dingoes and wedge-tailed eagles that often roam this scrub-lined desert backdrop.

On arrival in Adelaide, head north to the lush vineyards of the Barossa Valley – which offer an array of farm-to-table dining options – such as tastings and gourmet lunches. It’s a short flight from Adelaide to the wildlife haven of Kangaroo Island, where a homecooked meal and locally-produced wines await at the plush Stranraer Homestead.

Head down to Admiral’s Arch, a natural granite rock formation in the southwest corner of Flinders Chase National Park, to see previously-endangered long-nosed fur seal colonies that now thrive at over 20,000 individuals. Stop off at the park’s visitor’s centre to hear from the rangers involved in on-going conservation efforts that have reignited the species.

At Seal Bay Conservation Park, a similar story of positivity unfolds at one of the largest sea lion colonies in Australia. See males battle for dominance while females protect and ween their young pups – while marine biologists share tales of plight and recovery along this rugged coastline. At Lathami Conservation Park – guides will help you spot the endangered glossy black cockatoo among the drooping sheoak trees and koalas lazing on the branches of the eucalypts.

Which type of safari traveller are you?

Book your tailor-made safari to South Australia and Western Australia with Travel Nation today.

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Travel Green List 2024: Africa’s top sustainable sleeps https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/travel-green-list-2024-africa-sleeps/ https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/travel-green-list-2024-africa-sleeps/#respond Sat, 24 Feb 2024 08:00:00 +0000 https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/?p=74093 Our Travel Green List 2024 judges have selected their top Africa stays, from solar-powered camps to eco-lodges...

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House in the Wild, Kenya

Working with Maasai to allow wildlife and livestock to thrive, this eight-room lodge on the Enonkishu Conservancy north of the Mara runs on 95% solar energy.

More information: collectioninthewild.com

Earth Lodge (Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve)

Earth Lodge, South Africa

This luxury lodge works with conservationists tackling controlled burning, invasive species management and poaching. An artificial wetland filters wastewater, and food waste is repurposed as livestock feed or compost.

More information: sabisabi.com

Anabezi Camp, Zambia

Overlooking the Zambezi, this low-impact operation has no permanent structure and runs on 90% solar power. Its non-profit arm has supported the building of water towers, teacher accommodation and a community washing station.

More information: anabezi.com

Tembo Plains Camp (Great Plains Conservation)

Tembo Plains Camp Zimbabwe

This low-impact luxury camp is set amid riverine forest beside the Zambezi. Rooms made of canvas and stone are naturally cool, and run on solar power.

More information: greatplainsconservation.com

Porini Rhino Camp, Kenya

Putting education and community at the heart of the experience, Porini Rhino at Ol Pejeta Conservancy, offers Maasai-led walks teach visitors how to track the megafauna that roam these vast landscapes. Optional activities – including a special visit to see the two remaining critically endangered Northern White Rhinos – contribute towards the integral conservation efforts within Ol Pejeta.  

More information: porini.com

Wilderness Damaraland Camp (Wilderness Destinations)

Wilderness Damaraland Camp, Namibia

Thatched suites amid dramatic desert landscapes are visited by gemsbok, kudu and giraffe. The camp works with the community of the Torra Conservancy to reduce human-wildlife conflict.

More information: wildernessdestinations.com

Kyaninga Lodge Uganda

Built with sustainable wood and largely solar-powered, Kyaninga offers panoramic views over the Rwenzori Mountains. Its owners fund the Kyaninga Child Development Centre and Inclusive Model School for children with disabilities.

More information: kyaningalodge.com

The main house at Cheetah Plains (Cheetah Plains)

Cheetah Plains, South Africa

This sleek luxury lodge operates entirely on solar power, and runs a fleet of electric safari vehicles. It’s funded a community crèche, providing employment for local caregivers and teachers, and caring for more than 60 children.

More information: cheetahplains.com

Zomba Forest Lodge, Malawi

A humble inn with just four ensuite rooms in the old Malawian capital, Zomba prides itself on being electricity-free – using candles, lamps and solar-powered lanterns to create an ambience of home. The accommodation, set among 20-acres of woodland, including Indigenous rainforest, is surrounded by walking trails, waterfalls and rare birdlife. Nearby Liwonde National Park is ideal for elephant-watching. 

More information: zombaforestlodge.com 

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Exploring the rich history and traditions of the Saronic Islands by sailboat https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/sailing-the-saronic-islands/ Tue, 20 Feb 2024 07:17:12 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=66736 View the story Exploring the rich history and traditions of the Saronic Islands by sailboat Could island hopping on a…

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Exploring the rich history and traditions of the Saronic Islands by sailboat

Could island hopping on a sailing ship offer not just a more sustainable way of visiting Greece’s Saronic Islands, but be the key to unlocking its history and deep-rooted traditions?

Words Karen Edwards Photographs Brad Siviour

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The sun sets over guests aboard the Rhea as they toast to another serene day among the islands of the Saronic archipelago

The sun sets over guests aboard the Rhea as they toast to another serene day among the islands of the Saronic archipelago

A bird’s-eye view of Hydra, whose name (meaning water) most likely derived from the natural springs that used to scatter the island in abundance

A bird’s-eye view of Hydra, whose name (meaning water) most likely derived from the natural springs that used to scatter the island in abundance

Taking advantage of the crystal-clear waters of Aegina to go for a quick dip

Taking advantage of the crystal-clear waters of Aegina to go for a quick dip

Clip-clop, clip-clop, clip-clop… I could hear the gentle sound of hooves approaching. Behind me, seven mules were slowly making their way along the narrow marble-cobblestone road. A man in his 60s, wearing a half-unbuttoned checked shirt and faded jeans, held makeshift reins made from old ropes, his legs swung casually to one side of the saddle. His straw hat shielded his face from the harsh sun, and as he passed, he softly tweaked his greying handlebar moustache with his spare hand. I noticed his lips extend into a soft smile. “Yassou,” he nodded.

A local man and his mules clamber the backstreets of Hydra

A local man and his mules clamber the backstreets of Hydra

It was as though I had stepped back in time on Hydra (pronounced ‘Ee-drah’). A labyrinth of paths sheltered by oleander and fig trees helped to form the amphitheatre-shaped main town, which sprawled over a hillside. Pink hibiscus trees and grapevines decorated the whitewashed walls of houses, and pepper trees left a sweet aroma in the air. Most noticeably, there were no private vehicles on this small Greek island. At about 50 sq km in size, and home to an estimated 2,500 people, everything was navigable by foot. Mules were used for transporting heavy items such as furniture, suitcases and – as was the case on this occasion – sack upon sack of cement and building materials.

One of seven islands located in the Saronic Gulf, Hydra has long been popular with Athenian and Peloponnese holidaymakers, thanks to the easy journey from the mainland by catamaran. Much like the other Greek Islands, it juggles high numbers of both domestic and international tourists in peak season, most of whom arrive by ferry and spend only a few hours here; others can often stay for several days or longer.

As an island not known for its beaches, Hydra relies more on its slow-travel charms and Greek history. Early accounts suggest it was settled by the descendants of refugees who fled Albania during its Ottoman rule in the 15th-century. The 300 years of migration that followed from Asia Minor – present-day Turkey – brought new waves of people, traditions and skills to the island, developing Hydra’s position as a stronghold in maritime trade and transport. By the time the Greek War of Independence took place in 1821, the island had developed a resilient naval fleet, which formed the core of Greece’s defence in the Aegean Sea.

I arrived in the harbour at breakfast time in order to beat the day-tripping crowds. Early rising locals were already busy grocery shopping at the stalls along the waterfront, some carrying baskets laden with plump tomatoes that had arrived by boat this morning from nearby Aegina. Others were setting up shop and readying to welcome the thousands of day visitors who would soon arrive on the island by ferry and cruise-ship tenders.

At the port, tour guide Maria Voulgari – a Hydriot anthropologist – was beginning an hour-long walking tour of the city. I was intrigued to hear her tell of how the singer Leonard Cohen had lived in Hydra during the 1960s with his then girlfriend, Marianne Ihlen, after becoming enchanted by its way of life. But this isn’t Mykonos, and you don’t come here expecting to spot celebrities.

“You feel Hydra’s complex heritage the moment you arrive,” Maria explained to her small group of ten visitors, who were already snapping away at the picturesque setting. “Our history connects us to the world. You can feel that connection here because we still maintain our cultural integrity.”

The eponymous owner of Carolina’s Arts and Crafts – a boutique on the island of Hydra packed with locally made jewellery, ceramics and accessories – argues that shops like hers allow islanders to profit from practising traditional crafts that might otherwise disappear

The eponymous owner of Carolina’s Arts and Crafts – a boutique on the island of Hydra packed with locally made jewellery, ceramics and accessories – argues that shops like hers allow islanders to profit from practising traditional crafts that might otherwise disappear

Later, I asked Maria how she began guiding in her hometown. “My first tour was with the members of an Emirati royal family in 2018,” she told me. “When we finished, I gave them each a slice of my mother’s orange pie and one woman enjoyed it so much that she gave me her email and asked me to send her the recipe. Later, when I told my mother, she replied, ‘I don’t care [who wants it], I will not reveal the ingredients.’ Although after some begging, she did share the recipe.” These days Maria has made it a tradition to end her tours by offering guests a slice of orange pie from the local bakery. “I treat all my clients as kings and queens because we are all equal as human beings.”

With some time to spare, I headed back to an artisan boutique that had previously caught my eye. Set back from the waterfront, Carolina’s Arts & Crafts was neatly decorated with paintings, ceramics, jewellery and even the odd Cretan scarf. Founded by Carolina Walter in 2007, the store sells products that have been skilfully hand-crafted by Greek artists.

“When shops stock locally made products and tourists buy them, younger people can commit to these activities, and skills can be passed on from generation to generation,” Carolina explained. “It means more jobs can be created.” So, who had painted the picture of the Hydra windmill that I’d been eyeing up, I wondered? “My mother does the watercolours,” she smiled.

Hydra was an artistic haven in the 1960s, home to the likes of singer-songwriter Leonard Cohen and the writer Henry Miller (Alamy)

Hydra was an artistic haven in the 1960s, home to the likes of singer-songwriter Leonard Cohen and the writer Henry Miller (Alamy)

The sun sets over the masts of the Rhea

The sun sets over the masts of the Rhea

Hydra in bloom is one of the prettiest sights on an island that has embraced a quieter way of living and banned private cars from its roads

Hydra in bloom is one of the prettiest sights on an island that has embraced a quieter way of living and banned private cars from its roads

While tourism is a huge asset to the community, there have been some less-desirable effects in recent years, namely that Hydra’s population triples during peak season, thanks to a rise in Airbnb ventures.

“Since 2018, we’ve had a major housing issue on this island, and also on other nearby islands,” she commented. Combined with the increasing number of day visitors, there is enormous pressure on the local infrastructure, particularly on the effluent system. “What would help us is if people visited in less busy seasons – perhaps in March or in April or November, when they can apprehend the reality of life in the off-season.”

Unlike most visitors to the Saronic Islands, I’d travelled to the region on a 54m-tall ship named the Rhea, which had departed from Piraeus – just south of Athens – early the previous morning. The 26-passenger ship, one of several luxury sailing yachts operated by the UK-based VentureSail, was exploring three of the seven islands in the Saronic Gulf over the course of a week, and I was along for the ride. Onboard, ten crew (including the captain, host and chef) coordinated activities according to wind and sea conditions. So far, it had felt more like a slow-paced expedition than a cruise; one filled with cultural insights, sunset sailing and the odd swimming stop.

At the Rhea’s helm was Captain Derk, a softly spoken Dutch man in his 50s with kind eyes and a gentle smile. At least once a day I would hear him yell, “Sails up!” from the wheel, which would spur the crew on to unravel 1,000 sqm of canvas.

I learned how the Rhea spent the northern hemisphere spring, summer and autumn in the Mediterranean before heading across the Atlantic to enjoy balmy winters in the Caribbean. Over dinner one night, the captain filled me in on how she uses just a quarter of the fuel that was normally needed when operating under sail. In fact, the Rhea could sail for 90% of a voyage across the Atlantic Ocean from east to west with good passage winds, he told me, although the airflow isn’t as reliable in the Aegean Sea.

The next morning, we anchored off Poros and were shuttled to shore via a small rubber dinghy. I took up prime position at a waterfront taverna called Caravella, gazing out over the bay while relishing a coffee and a freshly baked puff pastry that was filled with deliciously salty feta and honey. Once a key naval port, Poros’ harbour oversees the Peloponnese city of Galatas, and I watched as dozens of taxi boats nipped back and forth between the ports, ferrying locals to and from work. On the promenade, I spied a pair of fishermen offloading a catch of what looked like grouper. Seasonal and sustainably sourced ingredients don’t come much better than this, I thought.

Poros island and the rugged tip of the Peloponnese (Alamy)

Poros island and the rugged tip of the Peloponnese (Alamy)

“After years of working in the area, I’ve got to know the local sellers,” admitted the Rhea’s Ottawa-born chef, Tyler Read, when I asked him what his secret was to the mouth-watering meals I’d been enjoying onboard. So far, we’d tucked into salads overflowing with juicy tomatoes, crunchy peppers and crispy lettuce, as well as a succulent sea bass on a bed of black rice with asparagus. The meals had been refreshingly light, perfect for this warm Mediterranean climate, and had strong herbal aromas.

“I buy the ingredients for which the area is known,” he told me, “so in Valencia I’ll buy oranges and in Amalfi I’ll buy lemons. Around the Saronic Gulf, it’s all about ripe tomatoes and Kalamata olives.”

The elegant clocktower on Poros was built in 1927 and is the highest point on the island

The elegant clocktower on Poros was built in 1927 and is the highest point on the island

On one occasion, Tyler recalled seeing an old yaya (grandmother) peeling green beans in the fresh fruit market. He offered to help her, so she shared stories about the traditional feasts she cooked for her family. More importantly, he told me, he wanted to ensure local islanders were benefitting from the ship’s visits to the region.

“It’s putting money back into the communities who are welcoming us, and that’s a must,” he said matter-of-factly.

We concluded our voyage with a stop on Aegina island and a visit to the Temple of Aphaia, one of the oldest surviving temples in Greece. The site pays homage to the daughter of Zeus and predates the construction of the Parthenon by 50 or so years. I spotted a small sign at the entrance to the hill on which the temple stands that dated it back to 490 BC.

Visitors were able to tour the large stone pillars for a fee, before retreating to the small, family-run café overlooking the pine forest below. It was there, over a coffee, that I read about Aegina’s 1,500-year-old olive trees, with trunks the size of small cars. Soon after, I was gazing at them for real. They looked even more otherworldly in person, like trees from a story about an enchanted land.

The olive trees in the Valley of Eleonas on Aegina are said to date back over 1,500 years

The olive trees in the Valley of Eleonas on Aegina are said to date back over 1,500 years

For centuries, Aegina’s nutrient-rich, volcanic soils have yielded plenty of seasonal produce, ranging from olives and figs to tomatoes and peppers, to almonds and pistachios. These days it’s the pistachio that takes centre stage for most farmers here; their cultivation covers nearly 12,000 hectares of land.

I was determined to savour one more taste of the island’s fresh ingredients before heading home. Just a 20 minute-drive away lay Perdika town, a more laid-back affair than the bustling port area. Quiet tavernas line the bay, providing shelter for children playing board games while their parents sip on a glass or two of ouzo. As I sat down at Antonis Fish Restaurant, I pondered where such a small town sources its seafood.

“Pistachio cultivation covers nearly 12,000 hectares of Aegina”

As if on cue, a young fisherman stepped off a boat on the tiny pier outside the restaurant and made his way up a steep staircase carrying five or six red snapper tethered together. A grinning Antonis greeted him at the open door like an old friend. Fittingly, I then spent my last meal ashore devouring perhaps one of the most delicious meals I’ve ever eaten: traditional dolmades (vine leaves stuffed with herb-infused rice and pine nuts) followed by a bowl of steamed mussels drizzled in olive oil, zesty lemon and parsley, alongside a platter of grilled octopus, scallops and squid.

By the time I returned to the Rhea, the sun was setting on our evening in Aegina. Anchored just offshore, I contemplated the deep traditions and heritage that I’d witnessed across the Saronic Gulf, from the use of mules for labour to the busy harbours packed with long-serving mariners and their fishing vessels, to the ancient and fertile lands that still feed the islanders. This is the Greece that simmers quietly in the background; you just need to slow down enough to see it.

The maritime-fuelled prosperity of ancient Aegina, whose port thrived during the 5th and 6th centuries BC, is likely the reason why the island’s grandest temple was dedicated to Aphaia, a goddess who was said to protect shipping (Alamy)

The maritime-fuelled prosperity of ancient Aegina, whose port thrived during the 5th and 6th centuries BC, is likely the reason why the island’s grandest temple was dedicated to Aphaia, a goddess who was said to protect shipping (Alamy)

The sun goes down on Aegina (Alamy)

The sun goes down on Aegina (Alamy)

More sailing trips around the Greek Islands

Syros (Shutterstock)

Syros (Shutterstock)

The lesser-known Cyclades

Did you know there are about 220 islands in Greece’s famous Cyclades group? A 10-day itinerary with VentureSail on the Rhea takes in a handful of more famous stops, including Syros, Delos and Mykonos, along with lesser known isles such as Andros and Kea. Be prepared for some hiking through grassland in search of archaeological sites, as well as taking in glorious taverna views while sipping on local wines.

Lefkada (Shutterstock)

Lefkada (Shutterstock)

Ionian delights

A springtime voyage on the Kairós starts and ends in Corfu. This eight-day itinerary explores the island cluster of Paxi, Ithaca and Lefkada, where Greek and Italian cultures come together in the Ionian Sea. Enjoy locally produced wine on Antipaxos and learn more about the mythological Greek king and adventurer Odysseus on Ithaca. Every day brings a new swimming spot to explore around the region’s numerous deserted islands.

Piraeus (Shutterstock)

Piraeus (Shutterstock)

South of the Saronics

This eight-day, one-way Christmas voyage sets sail from Piraeus, following the trail of a classic Saronic voyage, visiting Hydra, Aegina and Poros. From there the Kairós heads south to the frontier island of Spetses, where locals and travellers get by on foot or by bicycle, moped or horse-drawn carriage. The ship then journeys further west to where it disembarks at Nafplio, where you can see the ruins of the Akronafplia, a hilltop fortress town whose mighty walls were reinforced under Venetian rule.

Need to know

Getting there: VentureSail offers a seven-night itinerary sailing the Saronic Islands, departing from and returning to Athens’ Piraeus Port. Prices include accommodation, water and all meals apart from one, which guests are encouraged to enjoy ashore. Prices exclude international flights, train transfers and taxis to and from Piraeus. British Airways operates daily direct flights to Athens from London Heathrow taking about 3 hours and 45 minutes.

When to go: The Saronic Islands are a year-round destination, with temperatures reaching 35°C in summer and 15°C in winter. Peak season (July and August) is best avoided; try to travel during the low and shoulder seasons instead – particularly between late April and June and from September to early November.

Dining out in Hydra (Shutterstock)

Dining out in Hydra (Shutterstock)

Where to eat: In Hydra, brunch or lunch at the port-side café Papagalous. Mains at clifftop restaurant Téchnē include modern Greek cuisine.

In Poros, Caravella opens for brunch from 10am, with traditional salads and small plates available until late.

In Aegina, avoid the bustle of the main port by escaping south to Perdika town for its low-key coffee and cake shops, seafood restaurants and ouzo bars.

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Finding a happy place in Bhutan https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/finding-a-happy-place-bhutan/ Wed, 14 Feb 2024 10:44:50 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=66730 View the story Finding a happy place in Bhutan Fifty years after Bhutan opened up to travellers, we pay a visit to…

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Finding a happy place in Bhutan

Fifty years after Bhutan opened up to travellers, we pay a visit to a nation attempting to still keep tradition, sustainability and, above all else, happiness at the centre of everything

Words & photographs George Kipouros

A procession of monks at the opening of Gangtey’s tshechu

A procession of monks at the opening of Gangtey’s tshechu

Atmospheric Rinchengang village

Atmospheric Rinchengang village

Thimphu’s Great Buddha Dordenma is one of the world’s largest Buddha statues

Thimphu’s Great Buddha Dordenma is one of the world’s largest Buddha statues

“You will live until you are 65, and then in your next life, you will come back as a pigeon,” announced Mr Pema rather icily. As I took in my Buddhist astrological future, the low humming from the monks’ prayers in the hall next door, coupled with the loud fluttering of hundreds of prayer flags in the impending storm, only seemed to add to the grim inevitability of it all. This was certainly not the start I was expecting when visiting the self-proclaimed land of happiness, the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan.

I was on a quest to understand and experience this nation’s unique aura. This is a land known for its celebrated Gross National Happiness philosophy and its unconditional commitment to preserving cultural and spiritual traditions. It also often seems from the outside as if it exists in another era entirely, and I wanted to learn its secret.

My journey had started by being granted an audience with a senior monk, Mr Pema, at the 16th-century Pangri Zampa Monastery, home to Bhutan’s Royal College of Astrology, in capital Thimphu. As Mr Pema took in my vanishing smile, he tried to hit a more upbeat note.

“If your karma is good, then you will be happier and you’ll be adding many more years to your life,” he proclaimed. It was at this point that my guide, Sonam, chimed in: “By karma, he is referring to all your actions as a human,” he intoned, deep in concentration. Even though it was my life that we were unpicking, this was a deeply spiritual experience for him too, because for believers in the Mahayana form of Buddhism, which is widely practised in Bhutan, astrological readings tend to guide all major decisions and life events.

Mr Pema doesn’t sugarcoat his astrological predictions

Mr Pema doesn’t sugarcoat his astrological predictions

After a somewhat gloomy overview of my past lives – my highpoint was being a naga (half human, half cobra) – I was elated that Mr Pema was eager to wrap up our visit. The hundred or so monks of the college, together with those of all the monasteries in the valley, were busy preparing for the city’s biggest annual religious festival, the Thimphu Tshechu.
“You are blessed that you get to experience a tshechu, so make sure you use your time in Bhutan to be happy,” ordered Mr Pema as he sent me away for my first taste of Bhutan’s miniature of a capital.

There is no denying the grandeur of Thimphu’s setting, but change is afoot in the kingdom’s largest city. While the first thing that caught my eye was a skyline dominated by the imposing peaks of the Himalaya mountains – some over 4,000m high – I saw just as many construction cranes.

“Thimphu has grown dramatically over the last few years, and every time I come back there are new buildings that have popped up,” affirmed Sonam. Indeed, almost one-eighth of Bhutan’s tiny total population of 800,000 now call Thimphu’s narrow valley home. “And to think this was all rice fields just ten years ago,” he added quietly.

One thing yet to arrive in the kingdom is traffic lights. These are deemed “too impersonal,” explained Sonam, but the personal touch was certainly not helping with the current gridlock. Traffic jams are the norm here now, I discovered, as Bhutan gets ever wealthier and more and more people own cars. “Our roads just haven’t caught up yet,” Sonam told me as we sat patiently waiting.

Lush fields of rice surround the Tashichho Dzong

Lush fields of rice surround the Tashichho Dzong

The Tshechu Festival had made traffic unusually heavy. It felt like the whole country was headed to Tashichho Dzong, the city’s fort-like administrative and religious centre, for the celebrations early in the morning.

“It’s our biggest event every year; this is a major family and social occasion,” affirmed Sonam, who was dressed accordingly in his finest traditional Bhutanese clothing.

A tshechu (meaning ‘day ten’) is held in every dzongkhag (region) of Bhutan on the tenth day of a chosen month in the lunar calendar, with the particular month depending on where it takes place. Different locations choose different seasons, although spring and autumn are busiest. It is a celebration that can be traced back to the 8th and 9th centuries AD and the early days of the spread of Buddhism across the land. Most are held in honour of Guru Rinpoche, who is credited with introducing the religion to Bhutan.

The highlight of every tshechu is the highly stylised mask dance, known as cham, a performative version of oral tradition where visual storytelling is used to convey ancient values, mythology and religious teachings. This is a deeply spiritual experience for the Bhutanese and I saw many locals welcoming the performers with prayers and song.

The cham dancers, with their colourful costumes and ornamental masks, blended in with the vibrant traditional dress of the attendees. A vast tapestry of colour lay ahead of me, and it turned out to be a much grander affair than I had expected, helped by the architectural magnificence of the Tashichho Dzong serving as a backdrop.

Between the traditional clothes and the rituals, I noticed an unusual pattern among the male festival attendees. While all were wearing Bhutanese dress, a significant number wore knee-length socks with the Ralph Lauren Polo logo clearly on display.

“Here is the Western influence for you, plus a bit of status seeking,” explained Sonam.

I was among several hundred Western travellers in attendance, all keen to take in the carnival-like atmosphere. This is the busiest time of year for international visitors in Thimphu and most accommodation sells out months in advance, but this wasn’t always the case. The enigmatic kingdom only opened up to travellers in 1974; now tourism is the second-biggest earner for the economy, behind hydro-electricity exports to India. Yet Bhutan still retains a uniquely distinctive approach to welcoming the world, as I was slowly beginning to discover.

Hundreds of villagers join travellers in the courtyard of the Gangtey monastery to watch dancers perform a cham (masked dance) at the tshechu festival (George Kipouros)

Hundreds of villagers join travellers in the courtyard of the Gangtey monastery to watch dancers perform a cham (masked dance) at the tshechu festival (George Kipouros)

Low impact, high value

Eager to understand more about Bhutan’s take on development and tourism, I met with renowned Bhutanese history scholar and former monk Karma Phuntsho for a traditional local dinner.
“The main goal in life for Bhutanese people is happiness,” began Mr Karma, explaining that “Bhutan is the only Buddhist kingdom in the world, so the principles of Buddhism guide our way of life.” He told me how economic development, the aim for much of humanity, is only a means to achieving this ultimate goal.

“But happiness,” he continued, “can be found in simple things – in anything and everywhere.”

While explaining the story of how the Gross National Happiness strategy was first coined by the fourth King of Bhutan in 1972, Mr Karma went to great length to underline that this is not just a gimmicky motto but a lived-in experience for all. “Nature and non-economic aspects of wellbeing should sit at the heart of any discussion of development,” he concluded.

I enquired about tourism, which was growing at a significant pace pre-pandemic. “Our approach to development means that we’ll never be a mass-tourism destination,” he told me. “Low impact, high value is the simple practice that we want to follow.”

The country made headlines during its post-pandemic reopening to visitors when it raised the daily ‘Sustainable Development Fee’, which it charges international tourists, to US$200 (£165). This has since fallen, but it positioned Bhutan among the most expensive destinations worldwide, and I was curious whether the aim of this was to attract only wealthy visitors.

“Sustainability and the protection of the environment are pivotal – we are still the only country on the planet that is carbon negative”

“This is about attracting visitors who really do care about a meaningful experience; visitors who will actually understand and respect our environment and way of life,” he countered. “Bhutan is a special place, and a visit here is a unique experience, not least because of our relationship with nature.”

“Sustainability and the protection of the environment are pivotal for our future – we are still the only country on the planet that is carbon negative,” continued Mr Karma. “But the real test is now. As Bhutan opens up more to the world, with its new technologies and urban lifestyles, we will see how our society and traditions evolve.”

I asked whether he felt positive about this? “Of course I am. I am Bhutanese!” he smiled.

Before leaving the urban growth of Thimphu behind, I met with Ugen Denzen, director of the Royal Textile Academy and Museum. This institution has been credited with helping invigorate the centuries-old Bhutanese expertise in weaving, a predominately female-led craft. Bhutanese textiles are some of the most treasured in the world and the museum showcases some exceptionally intricate pieces. He was eager to highlight the work of the academy and its training programmes, which range from beginner to expert levels.

“For Bhutanese, our weaving tradition is part of our national heritage; it is intrinsically linked to our identity,” he explained. He is currently working with international partners to establish the first faculty dedicated to the subject in Bhutan.

Just outside the academy building, a couple of dozen staff had gathered for a team social event, playing rounds of khuru (outdoor darts), one of the most popular sports in Bhutan. There was music, dancing and singing involved, building to a joyous scene of outdoor celebration and games. I was invited to try a round of khuru, but given the proximity of Mr Denzen’s team to the target, I thought I’d decline, sparing him the need for an additional round of personnel recruitment.

Thimphu’s Tashichho Dzong is today the seat of the Druk Desi, the head of Bhutan’s civil government, but it was not the original dzong here – that was located higher up the valley and was destroyed by fire in 1771 (George Kipouros)

Thimphu’s Tashichho Dzong is today the seat of the Druk Desi, the head of Bhutan’s civil government, but it was not the original dzong here – that was located higher up the valley and was destroyed by fire in 1771 (George Kipouros)

Thimphu’s tshechu is one of the biggest festivals in Bhutan, with many locals travelling from nearby regions just to attend its celebrations

Thimphu’s tshechu is one of the biggest festivals in Bhutan, with many locals travelling from nearby regions just to attend its celebrations

A weaver at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu

A weaver at the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre in Thimphu

The Mo Chhu (Female River) winds through the valley beneath the town of Punakha

The Mo Chhu (Female River) winds through the valley beneath the town of Punakha

Female singers at the Gangtey tshechu

Female singers at the Gangtey tshechu

This wounded crane was being cared for at the Black-Necked Crane Information Centre in Phobjikha valley

This wounded crane was being cared for at the Black-Necked Crane Information Centre in Phobjikha valley

Sangay Dema never stops smiling

Sangay Dema never stops smiling

Countryside of Wonders

My next stop was a good four-hour drive from Thimphu, with the road trip proving an unexpected highlight. Despite travelling just 130km, the country’s unique topography of Himalayan peaks jostling for space results in a network of impossibly winding roads and a maximum speed of 40kph. Still, I could have enjoyed it at even half the speed, as the mountainous wilderness had me constantly glued to the windows.

The scenery was greener and lusher than anything I’d seen in North America’s Rockies or the European Alps, and vastly different to the arid plateau of Himalayan Tibet. In Bhutan, the tree line reaches up to 4,500m, and over 72% of the country is covered in protected forests. As we drove on, the evergreen flora felt like a competition between the giant fir trees and the towering Himalayan blue pines.

When making a short leg-stretching stop at Dochula Pass, we were lucky to glimpse the peak of the highest mountain in Bhutan, Gangkhar Puensum (7,570m). It also claims the title of the highest unclimbed summit in the world, as no one ever managed to successfully reach the top before mountaineering was banned in Bhutan in 2003.

“Our towering mountains are sacred; they are home to gods, spirits and demons, so they can only be enjoyed from a distance,” explained Sonam.

At the end of our drive lay Gangtey, a small yet picturesque village atop a lone hill at an elevation of 3,200m, with vistas stretching across the wide Phobjikha valley. Its namesake monastery dates back to the 16th century and it is a frequent stop on itineraries because it is adorned with the finest woodcarvings in Bhutan. I was lucky to be visiting during the town’s annual tshechu, joining hundreds of villagers from across the valley.

I managed to catch the first dance sequence of the celebration, Peling Gingsum, a striking tantric spectacle with a strong tempo. The four phases of the dance narrated a tumultuous story of fighting and the subduing of menacing demons, completed by a victorious ending where virtue and kindness prevailed. This was no less spectacular a performance than any I had caught in Thimphu, yet it felt much more
intimate and spiritual.

There was also singing from local women. “Every home in the valley contributes a female volunteer to take part in the festivities,” Sonam told me. They were all wearing incredibly colourful, ornate dresses, which was strikingly evident when they stood in a row for their performance. Seen from a distance, I thought the group resembled a carpet of Himalayan butterflies about to spread their wings.

Mentally recharged, we set off on the 4km Gangtey Phobji nature trail, taking in the namesake Ramsar site, temporary home to the endangered black-necked crane. Multiple viewpoints revealed striking panoramas across the valley, and I could see why the cranes had chosen this location as a key stop on their annual migratory journey.

I was too early to catch a sighting – the cranes usually arrive from Tibet by mid-October and leave by the end of February. Sonam explained that their coming is considered a good omen by locals, and the characteristic echo of their calls is a source of spiritual happiness. Unsurprisingly, I learnt that Bhutan is a birdwatcher’s paradise, with over 745 bird species sighted across its valleys, many found only here.

Our hike concluded with a visit to a local farmhouse, where we were welcomed by 70-year-old Sangay Dema. She explained that the building had been in her family for over 240 years and had changed little since it was built. She now welcomes guests from across the world, all of them eager to get a glimpse of Bhutanese village life.

She never stopped smiling as we talked, and I asked her for the secret of her big smile. “Life is too short, and you don’t know when you will die, so you have to be happy all the time,” she declared. “Be satisfied with what you have; this means you will always be happy.” After a rich serving of Bhutanese butter tea, we were sent away with some of her homemade cheese strings. Our happiness was guaranteed.

“In Bhutan, the tree line reaches up to 4,500m, and over 72% of the country is covered in protected forests”

Leaving Phobjikha valley behind, we paid a visit to one of the country’s shiniest new attractions, the Wangdue Phodrang Dzong. The original dzong (fortified monastery) was built here in 1638 but had burned down during restoration work in 2012. Thankfully, most of its historical relics had been moved off-site but the building was largely destroyed by the fire. It only fully reopened in 2022.

I had a hard time believing this was a reconstruction; the craftsmanship and restoration work was outstanding.

“In Bhutan, we deeply care for and respect our cultural heritage,” Sonam told me as we walked around its fortified walls. “Even if something burns down or an earthquake tries to take it away, we will do everything we can to bring it back, no matter what the cost.”

Just across the river from Wangdue Phodrang, we reached Rinchengang, a characterful village dating back to the 17th century. Local legend has it that the original settlers here were builders from India, who had arrived to erect the dzong opposite. This felt like a true time capsule and a return to a simpler way of life. Although electricity and plumbing had recently made their way to the village, there were no tourist shops, cafés or restaurants. Despite its beauty, this was not a tourist attraction but a living, working village of farmers, weavers and craftsmen.

Yet signs of rapid urbanisation are never far away in modern-day Bhutan. Just a few kilometres down the road, we passed by the new town of Bajo, where I spied blocks of flats built so densely next to each other that they almost resembled a single unit. There was no attempt to recreate the wide-open spaces and beautifully crafted stonework family homes that I had seen earlier at Rinchengang village.

The palace of great happiness

My next stop marked a return to the wide-open vistas that had now become familiar to me, as we headed to Punakha, the first capital of Bhutan. It was pleasantly warm, thanks to the low elevation of 1,300m, and it had an almost subtropical feel due to the mighty Pho Chhu (Male River) and Mo Chhu (Female River) waterways running across the valley.

Due to its position at the convergence of these two rivers, Punakha’s old town has been largely destroyed by multiple floods – the last major one in 1998 – but its dzong managed to miraculously survive. The Bhutanese were grateful for this twist of fate, as this is not only the most majestic complex in all of Bhutan, but also the most important spiritually.

The dzong’s full name is Pungthang Dewa chhenbi Phodrang, loosely translated as ‘The Palace of Great Happiness’, and it was first established in 1637 by Ngawang Namgyal. Its design has strong influences from Tibetan architecture, yet it feels distinctively Bhutanese. Multiple courtyards are enveloped by formidable buildings ranging between four and seven storeys, all supported by immense walls. Throughout the visit my attention was drawn to its towering windows with ornate and colourful wooden decorations.

As with every dzong, the country’s former ‘dual system’ of government (religion and state) is reflected in the design: the spiritual leader and the administrative leader both have their own dedicated quarters. This was the seat of the Bhutanese government until 1955, after which it moved to Thimphu; however, like all dzongs, its primary purpose was to act as protection against Tibetan invasion, a function it successfully fulfilled on multiple occasions.

It is the 17th-century monk’s assembly hall, known as the kunrey, that stands out as the complex’s most impressive feature. I would dare say that its interior is one of the most captivating of any Buddhist temple on Earth. At five storeys high, it is supported by 68 gilded pillars and decorated with magnificent murals and exquisite woodwork. A giant Present Buddha, made of clay and gold, watches over the kunrey and his story is narrated in the hundreds of scenes painted across the hall.

Such is the importance of the kunrey that it has served as the coronation and wedding venues for all Bhutanese royalty, including the current Dragon King of Bhutan, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck.

“It is called the happy fortress because it is associated with many happy outcomes for the country,” explained Sonam with a smile of conviction.

Despite the dzong’s world-class artistic features and its overall importance for the Bhutanese people and the broader region’s history, I was astonished to learn that this is still not a UNESCO World Heritage site. Disappointingly, the UN agency has yet to inscribe any of Bhutan’s treasures in its evidently highly politicised list.

The Punakha Dzong was only the second dzong to be built in Bhutan

The Punakha Dzong was only the second dzong to be built in Bhutan

Games of the Future

The last stop on my itinerary was a return to where I first began, Paro, the valley that hosts the country’s only international airport. Arriving early on a Sunday morning, we stopped by a traditional archery game, which was taking place by the side of the highway. Archery is the national sport of Bhutan, and much like my experience with khuru in Thimphu, I learnt that games are festive events, accompanied by singing, dancing and copious amounts of local beer.

In that context, I was shocked to see teams standing next to the targets. “Don’t you get accidents?” I asked Kinley, one of the local men enjoying the game with a Druk lager in hand.
“Don’t worry; we’re very good. We mostly hit the target,” he laughed, his voice betraying a distinct Australian twang that I duly enquired about.

Archery (or da) is the national sport of Bhutan – targets are placed between 100m and 145m from the archer, and matches take place between two teams

Archery (or da) is the national sport of Bhutan – targets are placed between 100m and 145m from the archer, and matches take place between two teams

“I moved to Australia for my studies and spent time working there,” he told me. Bhutan has seen plenty of its young move abroad, heading mainly to Australia and Canada. “You could say we have our own version of a brain drain happening in the country,” remarked Kinley stoically. I pressed further, asking how you can have a Kingdom of Happiness when its young people want to leave?

“With globalisation, people seek opportunities everywhere, and the same thing happens here. Beyond tourism, there are not that many great jobs for us young people. But the King and our government are actively trying to change that, and that’s why I am back here too!” Kinley concluded with an upbeat tone before rushing back to take his shot.

A breathtaking spectacle

Most first-timers in Bhutan finish with a climb up to the country’s most famous sight, the Taktshang monastery (or Tiger’s Nest), and my experience was no different. Perched perilously on a cliff 800m above the Paro valley, it is undoubtedly the most photogenic attraction in the country, not to mention a marvel of human ingenuity that dates back to the 17th century. It seemed to me a glorious Buddhist version of Greece’s suspended monasteries in Meteora.

Yet, unlike its Greek equivalent, where a modern road takes you right up to the buildings, visitors need to embark on an arduous two-hour (or longer, depending on one’s fitness level) hike from the bottom of Paro valley, eventually reaching an elevation of about 3,000m. The overall experience leaves one breathless, literally and metaphorically.

Paro’s Taktshang (Tiger’s Nest) monastery perches on a cliffside 800m above the valley floor

Paro’s Taktshang (Tiger’s Nest) monastery perches on a cliffside 800m above the valley floor

This was perhaps the only site in Bhutan – Thimphu’s tshechu aside – where I witnessed a significant number of visitors. “It is very busy here, always,” remarked Sonam, yet to me it felt quiet when compared with some of the world’s equally iconic sites. Bhutan is expected to receive just under 90,000 visitors this year – less than Antarctica – and yet for some in the country, even this number is far too many.

Sonam had not travelled outside of Bhutan before, so I told him of my experiences visiting some of the most famous attractions in Europe and Asia, and having to share them with thousands, sometimes tens of thousands, of visitors. He gave a thoughtful pause before replying.

“As you should know by now, Bhutan likes doing things in a different way. We like telling our story – the story of the Land of the Thunder Dragon – in our own terms. So, it’s not that we don’t want that many visitors; it’s that we want those who arrive to appreciate our country in the right way. We want them to be happy when visiting us, and we want our people to be happy with them visiting,” he concluded.

As we departed the monastery, a young monk stopped to give me his blessing, declaring: “May you live a full and happy life, sir.” I replied with the feedback from my first encounter with a monk in Thimphu, recounting my Buddhist astrological destiny that ordained I would only make it to 65 before being reborn as a pigeon. “For us Bhutanese, it doesn’t matter how long you live as long as you are happy for the time you’re living,” he smiled back, then waved me off down the valley. As I began the long walk, I couldn’t help but grin at the thought of how useful my pigeon wings would have been right now. Maybe Mr Karma was right: it is the little things that bring happiness.

About the trip

The author’s ground travel was organised by specialist tour operator Transindus, which offers a 12-day ‘Highlights of Bhutan’ trip, including international flights from the UK and the necessary additional overnights in India. Support was also provided by the Department of Tourism, Bhutan.

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The ultimate self-drive adventure in New Zealand’s South Island https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/the-ultimate-self-drive-adventure-in-new-zealands-south-island/ Thu, 08 Feb 2024 15:22:01 +0000 https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=74424 Mother Nature rewrote the rulebook when it came to New Zealand’s South Island and the best way to admire its majestic landscapes and natural experiences is on an epic road trip…

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Mother Nature rewrote the rulebook when it came to New Zealand’s South Island and the best way to admire its majestic landscapes and natural experiences is on an epic road trip…

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The ultimate self-drive adventure in New Zealand’s South Island

Mother Nature rewrote the rulebook when it came to New Zealand’s South Island and the best way to admire its majestic landscapes and natural experiences is on an epic road trip…

Lakeside towns teeming with thrill-seeking activities. Craggy coastlines sheltering rare wildlife. Brooding mountains with gleaming glaciers and remote highlands strewn with long forgotten mining towns.

The spectacular landscapes of the South Island/Te Waipounamu offer adventures aplenty. Māori history runs deep here too, best explored on ancient trading routes that traverse river valleys, pocked with caves daubed with rock art, and untouched native forests.

The wilder of Aotearoa’s two main islands, the South Island also has some of the most visually thrilling drives in the country. With well-maintained roads and short driving distances between the sights, you can pack in a lot over several days.

Getting from the UK to New Zealand to start your road trip is easier than you think.

With Air New Zealand, you can fly to Auckland from London, connecting in Singapore. Alternatively, over 10 other gateways, including Los Angeles, Hong Kong, New York City and San Francisco offer other routes to connect onward to New Zealand. Top-notch on-board entertainment, comfort and warm-hearted Kiwi hospitality will get you in the mood for your meanders.

Getting from the UK to New Zealand to start your road trip is easier than you think.

With Air New Zealand, you can fly to Auckland from London, connecting in Singapore. Alternatively, over 10 other gateways, including Los Angeles, Hong Kong, New York City and San Francisco offer other routes to connect onward to New Zealand. Top-notch on-board entertainment, comfort and warm-hearted Kiwi hospitality will get you in the mood for your meanders.

From Auckland, hop aboard an Air New Zealand flight to Timaru on the South Island (with a short stopover in Wellington). From there, follow our suggested eight-day guide for a sight-packed loop around the central South Island or go at your own pace. You are in laid-back New Zealand after all…

Day 1

Timaru

Fly into the port city of Timaru from Auckland or Wellington with Air New Zealand and pick up your hire car or campervan. Set between Christchurch and Dunedin, it’s a fine spot for setting off on a road trip.

Be sure to take time to enjoy this chilled city on the shores of Caroline Bay first. Go for a swim on its sandy and sheltered beach and get your first wildlife sighting. Stroll along the southern end of the bay between October and March at dusk and you’ll likely see its resident colony of little blue penguins waddling back to roost.

Hire bikes to follow leafy riverside trails or to pootle around Timaru’s laid-back centre with its pretty parks and heritage buildings, many now home to hip cafés and restaurants serving local produce and craft beers (for which the South Island is renowned). The Saturday Timaru Artisan Farmers Market is the place to pick up a picnic (Timaru Botanic Gardens and Trevor Griffiths Rose Garden are lovely settings) or to stock up on provisions for your road trip.

The region has the highest concentration of ancient rock art in the country with over 400 sites. Learn about the local Ngāi Tahu culture (the indigenous people of the South Island) and art at the immersive Te Ana Māori Rock Art Museum which runs guided tours to limestone caves, covered in art by ancient Māori as they travelled along the river ways. Stay at The Vicarage Geraldine, a characterful boutique hotel in a quaint country town en route to your next stop.

Day 2

Day 2

Lake Tekapo

Strike a route inland to Mackenzie Country and Lake Tekapo township, set on the southern edge of the unfeasibly turquoise lake. Backed by the Southern Alps, it’s a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Get up high to see the golden tussock-covered highlands and snow-capped peaks reflected in its glacier-fed waters – the steep but short(ish) Mount John Summit Track is popular for a reason. Or amble just along the lake to the little stone Church of the Good Shepherd. Right by the water’s edge, it’s a fantastic vantage point for admiring the ethereal and ever-changing light on the lake. Guided horse treks are a rousing way to immerse yourself of the big-sky wilderness of Mackenzie high country.

Whichever way you explore, there’s no better place recharge than in one of the area’s hot springs: Tekapo Springs has three large outdoor hot pools for wallowing. Its stargazing sessions are a hot ticket.

Set within Aoraki/Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve, the largest in the world, the night skies are a huge draw. Simply stroll along the lake’s shores on a clear night and you can see the celestial wonders of the Southern Skies with the naked eye. Or get the inside track on astronomer-led tours to the summit of Ōtehīwai/ Mount John, including the lowdown on Māori astronomy.

You can even star spot from bed: book one of the top floor rooms at the Galaxy Boutique Hotel and drift off as you count constellations underneath large glass skylights. Got a campervan? There are some cracking camping grounds around the lake.

Day 3

Day 3

Aoraki /Mount Cook National Park

It’s hard to resist the siren call of the Southern Alps. Don’t try. Set your sat nav to Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park visitor centre and buckle up for some blockbuster sights. This is New Zealand at its most dramatic: home to the country’s most impressive peaks (it has 23 over 3,000m high) including its highest, Aoraki/Mt Cook, and largest glacier, the Tasman.

The park’s striking visitor-centre-slash-museum should be your first stop. Learn about the legends that surround this sacred mountain and plan out how you’re going to explore it.

Costly heli-hikes, scenic flights and skydives might be an option but walking is the ultimate way to immerse yourself in the extraordinary wilderness. From easy-going native forest trails to strenuous multi-day tramps through steep-sided glacier-cut valleys, the park is threaded with well-worn tracks.

The Hooker Valley Track is a rewarding route, following beneath Aoraki/Mount Cook along alpine streams and crossing swing bridges strung above glacial lakes with dazzling views of the Mueller Glacier. Go at dawn for the most magical light on this three-hour return route. Walk mindfully and you’ll see the rare wildflowers and native birds that flourish here – including the world’s biggest buttercup, the Mount Cook buttercup, and the kea, the world’s only alpine parrot.

More otherworldly glacier and jagged peak vistas reward those that take the two-hour return Kea Point Track from Mt Cook Village.

To traverse the Tasman Glacier’s glassy walls of ice you’ll need to join a heli-hike. Otherwise, you can get some pretty epic views of the 23km ice tongue along the Blue Lakes and Tasman Glacier View Track. You can also kayak or join boat trips onto Tasman Lake to glide past glistening icebergs.

To stay in the heart of the park, family-run Aoraki Alpine Lodge is a good option – the views from its deck are transcendental.

Day 4

Day 4

Queenstown

After a hearty breakfast with a cold-pressed juice and coffee at Mint Folk & Co in Twizel steer south along State Highway 8. If time permits, call in at Hot Tubs Omarama for a welcome al fresco soak in mountain water before tackling the Lindis Pass. This high alpine road strikes right through the hulking Southern Alps towards Queenstown. In the driving seat? There’s a viewpoint at the highest section so you don’t miss out on the staggering scenery.

Next stop Queenstown. New Zealand’s adventure epicentre has an unbeatable location by the electric blue Lake Wakatipu with the Remarkables rearing up behind.

Canyon swings, bungee jumps, skydiving, jet boating, rafting: all the high-octane thrills are on offer here along with an array of snow sports in winter. After some gentler pursuits? Walk or pedal along lakeside trails, swim, taste wines at cellar doors in the world’s southernmost wine region and sip local ales in lively bars.

Queenstown’s dining scene is another reason to visit. Places like the Botswana Butchery, No5 Church Lane and odd saint wow with creative dishes that celebrate ingredients sourced from Central Otago.

Serious foodies will have Amisfield on their radar, a restaurant and cellar door just outside of town with hyper-seasonal cuisine (and exceptional pinot noir) by ex-NOMA chef Vaughan Mabee.

While you’re down that way, follow the road to Arrowtown, a historic gold rush-era village. Explore the remains of its old Chinese settlement, go gold panning and follow river trails.

Day 5

Day 5

Fiordland National Park

For the next leg of this action-packed road trip, route south along Lake Wakatipu to Te Anau. Set on Lake Te Anau’s eastern shore, this is the gateway to the show-stopping Fiordland National Park. A vast water world, it’s home to 14 glacial-carved fiords, lakes, rivers, streams, waterfalls, lush rainforests and glaciers. Active types can do yet more jet boating, water skiing and kayaking on the island’s largest lake while hikers can head off on some of New Zealand’s most renowned long-distance walks, the Kepler and Milford Tracks among them.

Splash out on a stay at Fiordland Lodge, a luxurious but laid-back escape right by the water’s edge with a superb restaurant. You’re just an hour-and-a-half’s drive from Piopiotahi/Milford Sound now, a dazzling jewel in this majestic national park. Cruises navigate its inky waters, passing close to its sheer cliffs where waterfalls tumble down and fur seals bask on rocks. Dolphins live here, as do little blue penguins along with the rare Fiordland crested penguin.

Take a look beneath the waters at Harrisons Cove, home to New Zealand’s only floating underwater observatory, or on scuba dives. After all that excitement, you’ll be ready for bed: Milford Sound Lodge has both chalets and a powered campervan site. You can set off for a sunrise kayak around the fiord – the best time of the day for lapping up the landscape’s serenity.

Day 6

Day 6

Franz Josef Glacier

Fuel up at the lodge’s Pio Pio restaurant before you embark on lengthiest leg of the trip. You’ll circuit south back to Te Anau then loop north via Queenstown before skirting along Tititea/Mount Aspiring National Park on your way to Franz Josef and Westland Tai Poutini National Park.

Feeling weary? Mahu Whenua Homestead makes a welcome retreat and base for exploring the beech forests and river valleys of this park, which is dominated by the four-sided Tititea (meaning glistening peak). It’s a tramper’s dream, laced with greenstone trails (ancient river routes used by Māori in search of food and the prized pounamu or greenstone).

Back on the road to the west coast, you’ll drive along one of these age-old routes: the spectacular Haast Pass. Take your time as there are plenty of stopping points where you can watch waterfalls, including the frothing waters of the Gates of Haast gorge that race below the road.

The scenery shifts gear now as you drive between the crashing waves and lush mountain-backed forests – bask in the briny air at Knights Point lookout (you may well spot elephant seals) before you arrive in glacier country. Two remarkable remnants of the last Ice Age, Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier flow from the foot of the Southern Alps almost down to the Tasman Sea.

Stop at Lake Matheson for a first glimpse of Fox Glacier and (weather willing) Aoraki/Mount Cook reflected in its mirrored waters. The townships of Fox Glacier and Franz Josef are the place to book excursions: join guided ice-hikes to explore one or both ice giants, take to the skies for bird’s eye views or follow walking tracks to admire their ice-blue beauty from their termini. Return to Fox Glacier after dark and take on the 1km-long Minnehaha Walk, where your evening stroll will be spectacularly lit up by colonies of glow worms in the cracks and crevices of tree trunks. Nestled in a forest setting in Franz Josef, Westwood Lodge is a gorgeous place to recharge.

Day 7

Day 7

TranzAlpine Train

Keep following the road north along the craggy wild west coast, a dazzling kaleidoscope of turquoise water, limestone cliffs and emerald forests. There are plenty of scenic pitstops to swim and eat. Hokitika is a good bet. A hip little beach town with great cafés and a blustery, driftwood littered beach (put to good use by local artists during its annual Driftwood and Sand Festival). As a Māori pounamu trading port, it has a rich history too. If you’re going to buy greenstone this is the place to do it. Don’t leave without gazing down at the Hokitika Gorge Walk from its knee-knocking swing bridge.

More swimming spots await at Greymouth, the coast’s largest town, as do atmospheric walks to old gold mining towns. Keep driving north for wind-whipped walks on white-sand beaches and out to rugged headlands like Dolomite Point, with its striking Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and blowholes (at their most dramatic at high tide).

Now you have a decision to make: will you leave your wheels here and catch the train to Christchurch or drive the last leg? One of the world’s best railway journeys, it’s tempting to take a seat on the TranzAlpine from Greymouth and let the scenery unfurl through the panoramic windows as you cross from the west coast to the east. Over just under five hours, you’ll cross rivers, plunge through tunnels and edge up Arthur’s Pass. The highest in the Southern Alps, this is a great spot to get one last blast of fresh mountain air from the train’s open-air viewing platform.

Plenty more visual treats follow on the other side of the mountains as the train follows the course of the Waimakiriri River, crossing a series of viaducts across rocky ravines, before tracking over the Canterbury Plains to Christchurch. You can also drive across Arthur’s Pass.

Day 8

Day 8

Timaru

Spend some time in Christchurch, the South Island’s largest city has plenty to charm with its buzzy districts (home to galleries, indie shops and dining hotspots) and surf beaches. For one last wow before you wend your way just south to Timaru for your return Air New Zealand flight, stop in at Akaroa. A historic town on the Banks Peninsula, just southeast of Christchurch, harbour cruises will take you to see rare Hector’s dolphins while sea kayak tours around Pōhatu Marine Reserve reveal sightings of the region’s little penguin subspecies, the white-flippered penguin, along with yellow-eyed penguins and seals.

Feeling inspired?

Ready to start your South Island road trip adventure? There are few better ways to prepare yourself than with a flight with Air New Zealand. Their authentic onboard Kiwi cuisine, selection of New Zealand wines and warm, Kiwi hospitality are the perfect introduction to this enigmatic destination. This is a long-haul experience like no other and with free inflight WiFi and boasting over 10 international gateways and 20 different domestic destinations, no airline connects you better with The Land of the Long White Cloud than Air New Zealand.

For more information on flights to New Zealand and more trip inspiration, visit the official Air New Zealand website.

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Alternative places to celebrate carnival in Brazil https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/brazil-alternative-carnivals/ Tue, 06 Feb 2024 18:05:17 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=66726 View the story Alternative places to celebrate carnival in Brazil Words Jessica Reid The party doesn’t stop in Rio. Across…

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View the story

Alternative places to celebrate carnival in Brazil

Words Jessica Reid

The party doesn’t stop in Rio. Across Brazil, plenty of other cities and states also host their own carnival celebrations, traditionally held in the weeks leading up to Lent. Some are well-known, while others fly under the radar. All bring a completely unique take to carnival.

Whether you want to witness a traditional samba competition, feel the rhythm of Afro-Brazilian blocos (street parties), dance the night away at an LGBTQ+ beach party… or cover yourself head-to-toe in mud, these are some of Brazil’s top alternative destinations to celebrate carnival…

(Shutterstock)

(Shutterstock)

(Alamy)

(Alamy)

(Shutterstock)

(Shutterstock)

1. Florianópolis

Best for: LGBTQ+ travellers

Located in the south of Brazil in the region of Santa Catarina, Florianópolis promises the second-best LGBTQ+ celebration after Rio. Its best known for its sandy beaches that host an array of parties during carnival season, especially surrounding the popular gay bar of Bar do Deca. Florianópolis’ main event takes place at the Sambadrome, where performing Samba schools are the highlight of the evening entertainment, alongside dazzling firework displays. But most revellers come to the city for the Pop Gay party, a popular beauty contest for drag queens and transgender people.

2. Paraty

Best for: Getting stuck in the mud

Don’t expect colourful costumes of feathers and sequins in Paraty, a beautiful colonial town set along the Costa Verde, 250km away from Rio. In fact, you can expect quite the opposite. Paraty’s Bloco da lama sees local and visiting partygoers head down to a muddy lagoon to soak themselves from head to toe in layers of mud, emerging out of the bog looking like an army of swamp monsters. People then take to the streets and parade around in their muddy attire. The city is also well known for its cachaça drink, so why not enjoy a light tipple and then get stuck in with this bizarre yet brilliant alternative carnival celebration?

3. São Paulo

Best for: A better value Rio

What was once a small celebration in the 1950s is now the number one alternative to Rio Carnival. Attracting millions of visitors every year, you can expect the same vibrant atmosphere, Samba parades and music as you would at the ‘Biggest Party on Earth’, and at a much more affordable cost.  Samba bands are a major highlight, with their heavy percussion beats known as ‘samba do trabalho’. Much like Rio, a competition between multiple samba schools takes place at the Anhembi Sambadrome, all hoping to be the carnival champions. If you can’t get your hands on tickets or prefer a more intimate celebration, the city’s smaller surrounding towns such as Sao Luis do Paraitinga, Salto, and Sorocaba host their own street parties during carnival.

4. Olinda and Recife

Best for: Getting back to tradition

Recife and Olinda are two colonial towns in Pernambuco, northeastern Brazil. Due to their close proximity, they’re often bound together as one brilliant – and completely free – carnival destination. With a strong Afro-Brazilian influence, expect displays that demonstrate the area’s local traditions, such as the artistic performance of frevo – a frenetic and vigorous music that originates from Recife Carnival (and listed by UNESCO for its Intangible Cultural Heritage).  You’ll also get to see ceremonies such as Maracatu Naçao and parades of bonecos (giant puppets). But perhaps the carnival’s most important event is its Noite dos Tambores Silenciosos (Night of Silent Drums), a midnight parade commemorating victims of the slave trade.

5. Manaus

Best for: An Indigenous twist

Located on the shores of the Rio Negro, Manaus is often used by travellers as the gateway to the Amazon. It’s location has created a unique celebration called ‘Carnaboi’, blending classic carnival celebrations with the traditions of the Amazon’s Indigenous people, particularly pulling influence from the costume, music and dance of the popular Boi-Bumbá Festival.

6. Ouro Preto

Best for: Young and fun

Hidden within the Brazilian mountains of Minas Gerais, the UNESCO-listed town of Ouro Preto feels like an unlikely candidate for hosting the ‘best student carnival in Brazil’, yet, here it is. The whole event is organised by students, who host blocos with live performances and themed parties at their seperate republicas (student accomodation). You’ll likely need to book a package with one of the republicas before you go, just be prepared for the wildest carnival you’ve ever experienced.

7. Salvador

Best for: Afro-Brazilian heritage

Salvador is the capital of the musically rich state of Bahia, so it’s no surprise that its carnival celebrations are renowned for their rhythm. This shouldn’t be mistaken for a destination with nightclubs and bars though – Salvador takes its party atmosphere to the streets, with blocos being the highlight of its carnival (rather than samba competitions like in Rio and Sao Paulo). The majority of Salvador’s population have African heritage, with their cultural influence – such as Axe music – infused within the carnival parades and performances. A highlight is Ilê Aiyê, a bloco which sees hundreds of Afro drummers take to the streets of Curuzu outside the city centre.

8. Diamantina

Best for: Embracing Brazil’s culture and history

Diamantina maybe a small colonial town, but it celebrates carnival in a big way. Located in the state of Minas Gerais, the former diamond-mining hub (hence the name Diamantina) hosts a five-day carnival every year, famous for its 24-hour blocos. Despite its up-all-night party reputation, Diamantina has now refocused its carnival events to celebrate the culture and heritage of the city, ensuring visitors respect the local community and landmarks while they parade around its narrow, historic streets.

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The top travel trends for 2024 https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/top-travel-trends/ Sun, 07 Jan 2024 00:00:00 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/inspiration/top-travel-trends/ How will we travel in 2024? From off-season travel to volcanic ventures, here are the growing trends that we anticipate to take off in the year ahead...

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A golden age of roving by rail

The dining facilities aboard the Eastern and Oriental Express (Belmond)

Before the boom in affordable air travel, trains were synonymous with travel adventures, but then they were relegated to the horrors of packed commuter journeys. Fortunately, we have regained our love of rail travel and a resurgence of night trains, intercontinental trains and luxury trains is underway.

Night trains include the Austrian Railways Nightjet sleeper trains linking Austria, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam. Then there’s the European Sleeper between Brussels, Amsterdam, Berlin and Prague and a ‘Canopus’ sleeper service running from Prague to Zurich via Dresden, Leipzig, Frankfurt am Main and Basel.

On the luxury front, The Eastern and Oriental Express (E&O), the launch of which was announced in the very first issue of Wanderlust, over 30 years ago, is restarting having paused when the pandemic hit. Italy has announced a raft of new rail services too, including the luxurious Orient Express La Dolce Vita. And in Mexico, the much anticipated Maya Train through the Yucatan Peninsula is finally launching in the spring, .

Tour operators are responding to a desire for flight-free options with epic and imaginative itineraries; for instance, we love Discover the World’s Arctic Rail Odyssey.

Travelling off-season

Travelling in autumn has become increasingly popular (Shutterstock)

Wanderlust readers have long travelled year-round, but it’s as if the rest of the world is catching up with off-season trips booming. A recent ABTA survey showed a move towards travel in the European ‘shoulder’ seasons, with May, June and October the most popular months rather than the traditional summer peak. Avoiding crowds and high season prices, and the impact of climate change will all be factors feeding into this and it is a trend that is sure to continue.

It’s good news for destinations as it is far more sustainable, helping businesses and livelihoods. And it’s good news for us travellers too, with places and activities open for business rather than having to close.

Solo sojourns

More women are opting to solo travel (Alamy)

Solo travel has always mattered to Wanderlust – we have written the book to prove it. In a major guide to the topic in our Aug/Sep 2023 issue we reported that Google Trends showed that searches for the phrase were up 761%. This is borne out by many travel companies now reporting a spike in bookings from solo travellers; some tour operators offering small group tours state that over half their bookings are from solos, while self-guided walking holiday specialist Macs Adventure say they have had a 30% increase year on year and accommodation engine Booking.com reported that 60% of its bookings in the previous year were solo.

It is noticeable that the word ‘solo’ is now widely used at last rather than ‘single’. As travel industry news site Skift reports, the surge on solo travel is led by older, married women who want to get out and explore the world, and are doing it without their spouses.

Expect a corresponding increase in exciting and innovative solo-friendly holidays from tour operators in 2024 as they tap into this burgeoning market.

Set jetting

The Wadi Rum is often used by filmmakers to depict an otherworldly setting (Alamy)

If we could only name one booming trend in travel, it would have to be set jetting. If you don’t know already, set jetting is when movie and TV buffs are inspired to visit a destination after seeing the locations and landmarks on the big (or small) screen.

This year will see the release of big movie and TV show sequels. Dune: Part Two will surely encourage more travellers to visit the otherworldly Wadi Rum, a protected desert area in Jordan. The long-awaited Gladiator 2 will also hit cinema screens later in 2024, and expects to highlight destinations including Morocco and Malta. Meanwhile on streaming platforms, the second series of Squid Games, rumoured for release near the end of the year, is guaranteed to heighten the current buzz around the South Korea, whereas the third instalment of Bridgerton will continue to encourage viewers to visit some of the UK’s historic highlights in Bath and Greenwich, London.

Sleeping in nature

A luxury bush game reserve stay in South Africa (Shutterstock)

Our passion for wild yet comfortable sleeps is growing. Stays in treehouses, first a trend a decade ago, shows no sign of abating with new properties launching all the time, ranging from the simply rustic to architect designed. But it’s not just treehouses that we love. While cabin stays have long been popular in North America, we’re just catching up in the UK with Google searches showing a huge increase in cabin-related searches including ‘log cabin with hot tub’. Yes, while being surrounded by all that wood is good for the soul, if the cabins come equipped with a log-burning stove, outdoor bath, hot tub or sauna, then all the better.

Meanwhile, some African safari camps offer ‘star beds’. Essentially these open-air bedrooms come with a soundtrack of the exhilarating sounds of the African bush while you hunker down in a mosquito-net encased comfortable bed. And you can indulge in a spot of stargazing of course…

Look to the skies

Astrotourism is a growing trend (Shutterstock)

We’re currently going through a period of intense solar activity with 2024 into 2025 expected to be the peak when we will have the most impressive aurora borealis in over a decade. As it was, 2023 was exceptional, with the aurora being seen as far south in the UK as Cornwall. You’ll still need clear skies, and it helps if you’re away from too much light, but this is the year to go hunting the planet’s most dazzling display.

And it’s not just the northern lights which are fascinating us. Interest in stargazing is at an all time high with several apps available to help us identify the constellations. The dark sky movement is gaining momentum with Dark Sky International having to date certified over 200 places globally which meets its criteria. Many countries have their own way of designating areas away from light pollution too.

Travelling to experience a solar eclipse has also caught our imagination. The big one for 2024 has been dubbed the Great North Amercan Eclipse and It will be the only total solar eclipse in the 21st century where totality will be visible in the United States, Mexico and Canada.

Volcanic ventures

Iceland’s volcano have seen a lot of activity recently (Shutterstock)

With volcanoes in the news so much recently, It may feel as if the number of eruptions is increasing globally, but the Smithsonian Institute’s Global Volcanism Program refutes this. What has happened though is that reporting on volcanic activity has increased, and also spectacular drone footage on social media now showcases the full power of eruptions like never before. It’s therefore not surprising that there has been an increase in interest in visiting volcanoes, whether erupting or not. Although, it should of course be stressed that you should only visit an active volcano if you’re not putting yourself or others at risk.

Iceland is the obvious destination benefiting from the interest in lava-chasing and leads the way on Google searches. The Land of Fire and Ice has even capitalised on this by designating a new Volcanic Way route – a 700 km trip on paved roads, focussing on volcanoes and the communities that live in surrounding villages. As well as taking in eight major volcanoes, it features hot springs, lava fields, black sand beaches, volcanic islands, basalt columns and lava beaches.

Other destinations to consider for a spot of volcanic drama include Lanzarote and La Palma, Sicily and the Aeolian Islands, Mount Bromo in Java, Hawaii’s Volcanoes National Park, and the Avenue of Volcanoes in Ecuador.

Reset retreats

Walking in nature is one way to reset (Shutterstock)

In a world that’s getting ever faster, with noise and light pollution, and so much bad news bombarding us daily, it’s no surprise that more people are looking for an escape that allows them to reset, rewind and rejuvenate. Whether longing for a complete digital detox, craving some headspace, or simply dreaming of tranquillity, we’ve become more aware of how important our wellbeing is.

A reset retreat doesn’t always have to be a full-on detox complete with yoga classes and guided meditation. It could be somewhere we can curl up in front of a log fire with a good book, or a quiet and magical place outdoors where we can sit luxuriating in nature. And “quiet” is the word as so many of us crave some silence in our life. This is a year for wellbeing and wellness, in whatever way you like. And breathe…

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Discover Nashville’s unique neighbourhoods https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/discover-nashvilles-unique-neighbourhoods/ Thu, 28 Dec 2023 11:18:28 +0000 https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=76549 View the story DowntownThe Gulch12 SouthEast NashvilleSoBroWeHoGermantown Discover Nashville’s unique neighbourhoods Beyond the rhythms of the Music City, there’s a…

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Discover Nashville’s unique neighbourhoods

Beyond the rhythms of the Music City, there’s a world of art, food, fashion and entertainment. Here’s how to curate your own Nashville itinerary as expertly as your playlist…

Nashville has rightfully gained its reputation as the Music City. Beyond its buzzing Broadway, dotted with honky-tonks, it has nurtured the careers of many aspiring songwriters and artists across multiple genres from country to bluegrass to rock and beyond.

Steeped in history and brimming with culture, the city is also home to some of the country’s best museums as well as a dynamic art scene. In fact, Nashville is home to more music museums (of all genres) than anywhere in the world. It’s also where the famous hot chicken originated which is a must-try, plus meat & three, fine dining and farm-to-table experiences.

Designers have also made the Music City their home, with boutiques like Emerson Grace offering the opportunity to appreciate local designs from fashion to homeware. For those who love the great outdoors and getting active, there are several extensive green spaces with hiking trails. Nashville’s sporting prowess is also growing, with everything from NFL American football to NHL hockey games and the chance to paddle board and canoe.

Downtown Nashville

Start your trip by exploring Nashville’s Downtown neighbourhood. The walkable city centre features world-class museums, a dynamic culinary scene, professional sports, eclectic art galleries, and of course, live music.

Stay downtown along 4th Avenue North, where boutique hotels, such as the Bobby Hotel, Noelle, and Fairlane Hotel capture the city’s creative energy and classic beauty. Nearby is the symbol of Nashville’s historic luxury; the Hermitage Hotel offers an experience of Southern hospitality along with timeless elegance.

Nashville is steeped in music history. Dive deep into Music City’s roots at the Ryman Auditorium. For more than 130 years, entertainers of all kinds have graced the stage, from Elvis Presley, Taylor Swift, and Jack White to Charlie Chaplin, Harry Styles and Lizzo just to name a few – making it one of the most legendary music venues in the world. Steps away from the Ryman is the immersive and inspirational National Museum of African American Music – dedicated to celebrating and preserving the many music genres created and inspired by African Americans.

Feel the rhythm of the city on Lower Broadway with free live music at the honky tonks 365 days a year. Enjoy Bourbon Street Blues & Boogie Bar in Printer’s Alley or a singer/songwriter at Puckett’s Restaurant.

Feeling hungry? Nashville’s food scene is as diverse as its music. Visit Assembly Food Hall at Fifth + Broadway with more than 30 eateries and bars including local favourites such as Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack, Desano Pizzeria, Thai Esane and Hattie Jane’s Creamery. Prefer a chef-driven culinary experience? Black Rabbit, Church & Union, and Drusie & Darr should be on the list. Looking for more of a cocktail bar vibe? Pushing Daisies, Hidden Bar and One More Cocktail Club have you covered.

The creative culture of Nashville extends far beyond music and can be admired at various art galleries, unique exhibitions, and events such as the First Saturday Art Crawl, a monthly showcase of the works of both local and globally renowned artists.

Get there with British Airways Holidays

Whether it’s being seranaded at the Grand Ole Opry or enjoying sweeping views of the city from the John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge, British Airways Holidays has your Nashville itinerary covered.

The Gulch

Not far from Nashville’s famous Music Row is The Gulch. Once an abandoned railroad site after World War II, The Gulch has now been rejuvenated into a chic, walkable neighbourhood full of fine dining options and plush boutiques.

Start with breakfast at Biscuit Love and if you’re feeling ravenous, try their ‘East Nasty’ dish of buttermilk biscuits topped with fried chicken and gravy. Before lunch, check out an exhibition or an interactive event at the Frist Art Museum and then experience Nashville’s modern, fusion cuisine at The 404 Kitchen.

Unsure of where to stay? Pick from one of the elegant hotels such as The W or The Thompson to rest after an evening exploring the area’s dazzling nightlife thanks to its suave bars and saloons like Saint Añejo and the Thompson’s very own rooftop bar, L.A. Jackson.

Don’t leave without walking into guitar paradise at The Gibson Garage where over 200 guitars hang from a conveyor belt and feel free to try some out for yourself in their Acoustic Room. You can also snap some colourful photos at the Nashville WhatLiftsYou Wings Mural as a momento.

Tailor your trip with Trailfinders

From admiring impressive murals in Hillsboro Village to kayaking along the Cumberland River for some fresh air after hitting the honky tonks, Trailfinders knows how to plan the ultimate Nashville city break.

12 South

For a true sense of community in Nashville, look no further than 12 South, a quaint neighbourhood dotted with historic bungalow-style homes and vintage boutiques.

You can easily stroll around the many restaurants, bakeries, cafes and shops in the area during a laid-back afternoon visit. Imogene + Willie, an ethical brand that takes pride in its local denim is worth visiting, as is Emerson Grace, which showcases unique clothing by independent designers. You can also browse bright, floral dresses at Reese Witherspoon’s Draper James or admire elegant jewellery pieces by Nashville designer Judith Bright at her boutique.

To treat your taste buds, neighbourhood favourite and speciality coffee house Frothy Monkey is a good place to start. There’s also the colourful Five Daughters Bakery where you can treat yourself to a croissant-style hundred layered donut.

For lunch or dinner from Friday to Sunday, book in advance to enjoy the flavours of Scandi-inspired Locust where you can try chef Trevor Moran’s playful take on dumplings. Alternatively, head to tasty Burger Up, which frequently collaborates with local farms and butchers for its produce.

East Nashville

East Nashville is an eclectic area and the city’s creative hub, which becomes obvious in its independent music clubs like Basement East and The Five Spot.

If you’re looking to dine al fresco, grab your seats on the patio at FOLK, an elegant spot prioritising natural wines and produce from local purveyors where you are promised some of Nashville’s best pizza. Fancy something more casual? Step into Edley’s BBQ where succulent pork is marinated for 24 hours, smoked for another 12 hours and then served with a fiery jalapeño slaw.

You’re likely to spot many locals at the neighbourhood taproom, Mickey’s Tavern where you can play foosball or a game of darts while sipping on seasonal beer. Another institution is Dino’s where you can indulge in some no-frills, seriously juicy burgers till 3am.

For finer dining, opt for Audrey where chef James Beard Award-winning chef Sean Brock takes inspiration from his grandmother by serving Appalachian-inspired dishes, all with an elegant and contemporary twist. If you’re into your mixology, sip on a signature cocktail or two at the hedonistic Fox Bar & Cocktail Club.

SoBro

Nashville’s musical heart beats further in the trendy SoBro district.

You can easily spend the day exploring many musical classics like the neoclassical Symphony Hall and the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. The latter takes you through the origins of country music through impressive exhibits and has a skylit rotunda celebrating the music world’s elite. Book a bus tour to visit Nashville’s famed RCA Studio B where many musical classics were recorded by legends like Elvis Presley, Dolly Parton, Roy Orbison and the Everly Brothers.

There’s more for music lovers beyond the museums at SoBro. Grab a front-row seat at The Listening Room Cafe where you’ll be inspired by local talent, particularly during a unique “writers-in-the-round” experience where songwriters take turns to play songs they’ve written. Each songwriter introduces their song before playing and explains the backstory behind it, making for a very moving and uniquely Nashville musical experience.

For more renowned music, browse through an impressive collection of vinyl, merchandise and knick-knacks at Jack White’s Third Man Records. Stopping by the Music City Walk of Fame Park will reveal famous names honoured like Dolly Parton, Kings of Leon, Little Richard, Loretta Lynn and Jack White, amongst many others.

In the culinary sphere, there’s chef Deb Paquette’s sleek restaurant Etch whose global menu includes vegan options too. For something more low-key, head to Martin’s BBQ where you can indulge in whole hog barbecue.

Wedgewood-Houston

Formerly industrial Wedgewood-Houston is now an arty quarter, retaining its charisma and eccentricity thanks to its independent galleries like the Julia Martin Gallery and the David Lusk Gallery.

Of course, there are options for a tipple paired with exquisite food here with places like half-bar, half-restaurant, Bastion that proudly serves quirky cocktails and painstakingly prepared food on a rotation of creations. For Italian fare with flare, try iggy’s restaurant that focuses on fresh pasta and refined wines.

The WeHo Art Crawl is great fun and an integral part of the neighbourhood’s art legacy. Hosted on the first Saturday of each month, art lovers can discover several ateliers that open their doors on this day.

There are also insightful, modern art displays at galleries such as Zeitgeist. WeHo has stylish shops too like leather and suede jacket specialists, Savas. Soho House’s bar May’s is open to the public and worth a pit stop after browsing the art galleries.

Take a visit to Diskin Cider on their trivia night or their outdoor cinema screening night whilst enjoying first-class cider. If beer is more your drink of choice, head to Jackelope Brewery to sample their creative craft beers and welcoming sense of community.

There’s also plenty of whiskey to be sipped at Nashville Craft Distillery. For the more adventurous, their menu also includes unconventional craft spirits like one made from sorghum.

Germantown

Just a few blocks from Nashville’s Downtown is Germantown, a historic community which now boasts a mishmash of art galleries, boutique shops and a wonderful Farmer’s Market.

This rich, cultural area is a hit with foodies, so after you take a stroll to admire its Victorian-era buildings, try some oysters and elevated small plates at Henrietta Red. You may also want to try the seaweed butter that is glossed over sourdough and notably the handmade pasta that is the specialty at Rolf and Daughters; it’s become a sensation amidst many Nashvillians. For some classic, comforting southern fare like a meat and three, grab a table at Monell’s beautiful flagship spot.

If you happen to find yourself in Nashville around New Year’s Eve, then Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park is the place to be. Aptly named the Jack Daniel’s New Year’s Eve Live: Nashville’s Big Bash, this grand celebration that welcomes the new year sees a string of famous acts on a large stage along with a glittering display of fireworks. Beyond its annual celebrations, there’s plenty to see and do in this vast verdant space, from picnics by its amphitheatre to ample walking trails.

Right next to Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park lies the Tennessee State Museum which takes you through the state’s history, showcasing relics from the Civil War, pioneer houses and diverse artefacts from the Indigenous tribes that once lived here.

What are you waiting for?

Start curating your creative visit to Nashville today….

Book your trip with British Airways Holidays and plan your ideal itinerary with Trailfinders.

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Exploring castles, cuisine and coastal secrets on a slow road trip in North Wales https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/road-trip-north-wales/ Mon, 11 Dec 2023 18:39:08 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=66751 View the story Exploring castles, cuisine and coastal secrets on a slow road trip in North Wales Conwy Castle (Shutterstock)…

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Exploring castles, cuisine and coastal secrets on a slow road trip in North Wales

Conwy Castle (Shutterstock)

Conwy Castle (Shutterstock)

A slow drive along the North Wales Way, from the English border to Anglesey, reveals not only a land of incredible local food and castles, but a region that is slowly reimagining itself

Words David Atkinson

Angharad encouraged me to stick my nose deep into the barrel.

“Go on,” she smiled, “give it a good sniff. The Madeira wine one is my favourite.” Somewhat fazed, I obliged and inhaled deeply while she talked the rest of the group through the process of using old bourbon and sherry casks to mature post-fermentation whisky.

“I was always a brandy girl, but I’ve come to appreciate the complexity of whisky,” she told me as we headed to the tasting room for the end of our visit.

I had joined the distillery tour at Penderyn in Llandudno just days after Welsh whisky was awarded Protected Geographical Indication (UK GI) status – a recognition of its all-Welsh operation. It came as a revelation to me. After all, I’d visited North Wales many times before, first as a child and then later with my own children; in all that time, I’d enjoyed its castles, coastal walks and seaside breaks, but never its single malts before.

The all-female distillery team at Penderyn in Llandudno, along with the company’s sister sites in Brecon and Swansea, will soon be producing up to 2.5m bottles of whisky each year, having recently beaten the Scottish and Irish to the plaudits at the Spirits Business World Whisky Awards. By the time I’d extracted my nose from the cask, I was already starting to see North Wales in a new light. But, then again, that was the idea all along.

My visit to the distillery was part of a road trip along the North Wales Way, one of three new national routes devised by Visit Wales to look afresh at regions most people think they already know. Visitors often travel from the North Wales border, outside Chester, to the tip of Anglesey in a day, either bombing down the A55 or trundling the train line that chugs alongside it, but they miss out on all the fun by doing so. I have certainly been guilty in the past of being too preoccupied with the destination to realise that the journey, spanning 120km of seascapes and mountains, reveals epic tales of Welsh heritage, folklore and adventure, among other delights. It was time to look afresh at North Wales.

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Visitors sample the whiskies of Penderyn Distillery, which is well known for its single malts (Visit Wales)

Visitors sample the whiskies of Penderyn Distillery, which is well known for its single malts (Visit Wales)

Welsh whisky was given a well-overdue Protected Geographical Indication status recently, a recognition long since granted to its Irish and Scottish cousins (Visit Wales)

Welsh whisky was given a well-overdue Protected Geographical Indication status recently, a recognition long since granted to its Irish and Scottish cousins (Visit Wales)

One of many sculptures now found dotted around Caernarfon Castle (Tony Trasmundi)

One of many sculptures now found dotted around Caernarfon Castle (Tony Trasmundi)

Rewriting history

I had started my North Wales odyssey a few days earlier by revisiting a couple of the region’s big attractions, beginning at Caernarfon Castle. Its impressive fortifications form part of the ‘iron ring’ of castles constructed under King Edward I to crush the 13th-century rebellion of the Princes of Gwynedd. Along with the castles at Conwy, Harlech and Beaumaris, it has attracted UNESCO World Heritage status, but its story is now also getting a bit of a twist. A recently unveiled £5 million pine-and-glass upgrade to the King’s Tower gatehouse is recasting the imperial history of Edward’s bastide (fortress town).

Caernarfon Castle is the most impressive of Edward I’s so-called ‘Ring of Iron’ fortifications, a chain of castles the English king had built to subdue locals in the 13th century (Alamy)

Caernarfon Castle is the most impressive of Edward I’s so-called ‘Ring of Iron’ fortifications, a chain of castles the English king had built to subdue locals in the 13th century (Alamy)

The idea behind the project, according to lead custodian Hannah Litherland, was to shift the story from Edward to the hands of the people who built the castle, including local stonemasons and female embroiderers. As such, 12 new sculptures were commissioned to symbolise the skills of these medieval craftspeople. A new viewing platform, meanwhile, looks out over the city walls – which were, ironically, built to keep the Welsh out – and gazes over to the mountain passes where the local resistance once gathered.

The statement sculpture, located atop the new gatehouse (which has an accessible lift), depicts Edward’s legacy in pieces, the accompanying verse from the 16th-century Anglesey poet Dafydd Trefor cheekily highlighting how a Welsh flag now flies over a castle built by an English king to subjugate the Welsh. It reads: “Where is Edward… He himself is silent, away in his grave.”

The sculptures of Caernarfon Castle help retell the story of the building from a local standpoint (Alamy)

The sculptures of Caernarfon Castle help retell the story of the building from a local standpoint (Alamy)

After a quick lesson in reframing Welsh history, I headed onwards, crossing the Britannia Bridge to the island of Anglesey in order to find the Norman settlement of Beaumaris. This is now the visitor hub of the island, busy with day trippers. The attractive high street of gift shops, galleries and cafés was doing a brisk trade, while the perennial queues outside the Red Boat ice-cream parlour were snaking back towards the old harbour. Charles Dickens stayed at Ye Old Bull’s Head Inn in Beaumaris when he visited Anglesey as a journalist in 1859 to report on a maritime disaster off the island’s coast; he was a bit sniffy about the cuisine, but now it’s all comforting pub food and local produce.

Nearby lies Plas Newydd, the stately former pile of the Marquess of Anglesey, which was gifted to him after he served as second in command to Wellington at the 1815 Battle of Waterloo. The war-hero first marquess, whose effigy looms over southern Anglesey from a giant Doric column, lost his leg at Waterloo. His replacement limb – one of the world’s first moveable prosthetics – is now on display in the house’s Waterloo room.

The curators here are also working to reframe the story of the local landowning family. A new series of art installations, ‘All That Was Left’, tells the lesser-known tale of the black-sheep fifth marquess, Henry Cyril Paget. Known as the ‘Dancing Marquess’, he was a flamboyant character who died in 1905 having squandered his annual allowance and run up debts of £40 million (in today’s money) in the pursuit of the arts and high living.

Beaumaris is one of the world’s great unfinished castles (Alamy)

Beaumaris is one of the world’s great unfinished castles (Alamy)

A contemporary of Oscar Wilde, the scandalous insolvency of the marquess led to the Great Anglesey Sales of 1904, when 18,000-odd lots of his personal possessions, ranging from clothes to furniture, were sold off to the local community to clear his debts. The auctioneers even sold his housekeeper’s parrot, which reputedly swore in three different languages. The Welsh artist Alison Neighbour has recreated the assorted lots with ghost-white installations that run throughout the property’s labyrinthine rooms to tell a story that has been swept under the heavy, dusty carpets for years.

“The fifth marquess was a man before his time. I’ve come to feel he was looking for something with his extravagance that he never quite found,” said Taya Drake, project curator for the exhibition. “It’s a tragic story but, through research for this project, we’ve come to better understand a forgotten member of the family.”

The Anglesey town of Beaumaris is a muddle of medieval, Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian architecture (Alamy)

The Anglesey town of Beaumaris is a muddle of medieval, Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian architecture (Alamy)


Rural detour

The next day, I cruised into Llanberis on a detour from the main route, following the switchback roads of Eryri National Park (Snowdonia), overlooked by its brooding, mist-shrouded peaks and rugged, sheep-grazing mountain passes. It’s easy to dismiss North Wales as kiss-me-quick territory, brassy as a B&B landlady in a smeared pinnie, but hidden between the Wales Coast Path and the mountains of the Eryri (Snowdonia) range are an array of lost-in-time villages and ancient sites. These are typically found within a 30-minute drive of the North Wales Expressway that most people hurtle down, oblivious to the area’s treasures.

Arriving mid-morning into Llanberis, I made my way to the Snowdon Mountain Railway, a Victorian-era rack-and-pinion service scaling the highest mountain (1,085m) in England and Wales. There was already a Gore-Tex-clad crowd gathering there, but I had other plans; I knew that, just 200m away, towards Padarn Country Park, an ancient structure slumbered undisturbed. I parked nearby and followed a short but steep woodland trail, crossing a gurgling stream to emerge through the trees at Dolbadarn Castle, the domain of Llywelyn the Great, which was still maintaining its lonely vigil over the mountains.

“The auctioneers sold off a parrot that reputedly swore in three different languages“

Built in around 1220 AD, the castle survived the demise of the Princes of Gwynedd under Edward I and was later captured in watercolours by JMW Turner, who eulogised its ‘darkness, solitude and silence’. Almost alone, lost in the landscape and my own thoughts, this felt like the defining moment of my journey – what the Welsh would call hiraeth, a longing for an ancient homeland.

In Beddgelert, later that day, I encountered an equally moving glimpse of local heritage. While the day trippers were hustling for a scoop of wild cherry at the Glaslyn ice-cream parlour in the village, I followed the path along the river in search of an ancient Welsh legend

Gelert’s Grave is said to be where Prince Llywelyn buried his faithful dog, who he killed after mistakenly believing it had savaged his child (Alamy)

Gelert’s Grave is said to be where Prince Llywelyn buried his faithful dog, who he killed after mistakenly believing it had savaged his child (Alamy)

According to the story, Prince Llywelyn left Gelert, his faithful dog, in charge of his infant son while he went hunting. He returned to find the dog covered in blood, so he took his sword to him, only to then discover the infant asleep beside a dead wolf, slain by Gelert to save the child. The dog’s grave, said to have been built by the remorseful prince, is marked with a stone and a plaque explaining how he never smiled again. It’s probably just a folk tale but, on a busy summer’s day in Eryri, it offered a peaceful meander through the mists of Welsh folklore.

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A woman in traditional dress stands by the smallest house in Great Britain, nestled in the corner of Conwy’s quayside – it’s barely 2m wide and not much more than 3m high (Alamy)

A woman in traditional dress stands by the smallest house in Great Britain, nestled in the corner of Conwy’s quayside – it’s barely 2m wide and not much more than 3m high (Alamy)

Hikers make their way along the Llanberis Pass trail, which is one of the longest routes up Yr Wyddfa (Mount Snowdon) but arguably the easiest (Alamy)

Hikers make their way along the Llanberis Pass trail, which is one of the longest routes up Yr Wyddfa (Mount Snowdon) but arguably the easiest (Alamy)

Llandudno’s promenade is over 3km long and is the centrepiece of the Victorian resort town; South Stack Lighthouse lies on the westernmost tip of Anglesey, atop a small rocky island known as Ynys Lawd, and is a guiding light for vessels crossing the Irish Sea (Alamy)

Llandudno’s promenade is over 3km long and is the centrepiece of the Victorian resort town; South Stack Lighthouse lies on the westernmost tip of Anglesey, atop a small rocky island known as Ynys Lawd, and is a guiding light for vessels crossing the Irish Sea (Alamy)

A fresh view

The next day, I was back on the main coastal road, stopping for a stroll along the pebble beach at Llandudno’s quieter West Shore. This is where Victorian author Charles Lutwidge Dodgson (aka Lewis Carroll) first met a young Alice Liddell, who was taking the sea air with her family. The impression the young girl made on him went on to inspire his novel, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.

I later wandered the cobblestone lanes of Conwy, where the high street is home to independent local producers such as Dylan’s deli, Parisella’s ice-cream and Vinomondo, which sells local microbrewery ales, Welsh spirits, and wines from the nearby Conwy Vineyard. Most intriguing of all was a small, white-fronted shop just within the medieval town walls, where Mark and Emma Baravelli run an artisan chocolaterie, creating bespoke creations for clients that include the London store Liberty and Regent Seven Seas Cruises. Their home-grown business took off after a starring role in the Channel 4 TV series Extreme Chocolate Makers in 2019, and recent commissions include a Fabergé-style egg with a powder-blue motif, plus a flock of tiny birds with delicate, chocolate-carved wings. Each hand-painted project can take up to a week to craft.

South Stack Lighthouse lies on the westernmost tip of Anglesey, atop a small rocky island known as Ynys Lawd, and is a guiding light for vessels crossing the Irish Sea (Alamy)

South Stack Lighthouse lies on the westernmost tip of Anglesey, atop a small rocky island known as Ynys Lawd, and is a guiding light for vessels crossing the Irish Sea (Alamy)

“I love the way we enjoy chocolate with all the senses. For me, every step of the chocolate-making process is an opportunity for creativity,” said Emma, a former textiles designer turned cocoa-butter artist.

I agree, and I couldn’t resist a take-home box of luxury, fresh chocolates, including dipped cherries, raspberry creams and a dark-chocolate ganache flavoured with Penderyn whisky. “I love the violet creams,” smiled Emma. “That’s my go-to desert-island luxury.”

Before heading for home, I made one last stop, and it turned out to offer a truly fresh perspective on North Wales. The faded seaside town of Rhyl is the base for the latest project from Zip World, a company that operates adrenaline sports attractions across Wales. The Skyflyer air balloon, tethered to the ground, flies 20 people at a time some 150m above the Rhyl promenade, offering North Walian views that stretch from Moel Famau in the Clwydians AONB to the heart of the Eryri range.

“Llandudno’s quieter West Shore is where author Lewis Carroll first met a young Alice Liddell“

The company already has several sites in North Wales, ranging from the Velocity zip wire at the former Penrhyn slate quarry to an underground crazy golf course at the erstwhile Llechwedd quarry. However, according to the fast-talking Zip World co-founder Sean Taylor, Skyflyer could kickstart a new golden age for this old resort town.

“Rhyl is a sleeping giant,” he enthused over coffee at the Pavilion Theatre adjoining the Skyflyer base. “It was the bucket-and-spade seaside town of my childhood but could become North Wales’ answer to New Zealand’s South Island.” While soaring above the push-penny arcades, with Liverpool and the Isle of Man on the horizon, I couldn’t help but admire Sean’s enthusiasm for the town’s future.

If Rhyl is still dozing, the larger giant of North Wales has definitely started to stir. It’s a thought that had crossed my mind earlier, at the Penderyn distillery, when I joined tour guide Angharad in the tasting room to sample a snifter of Rhiannon whisky, named after a powerful enchantress who appears in a collection of 11th-century Welsh folk tales known as The Mabinogion. As we savoured the hints of vanilla and caramel, I reflected on how travelling the North Wales Way had shifted my perspective on a place I thought I knew. In reframing its history and celebrating its local food heroes, the area is enjoying a timely renaissance.

“I’m local to the region, and I’ve seen this place evolve fast,” smiled Angharad as I drained my glass. “These days I can walk into my local pub and order a Penderyn old fashioned. Nobody,” she laughed, “even bats an eyelid.”

Five highlights in North Wales

1. Railway travel

Heritage rail enthusiasts will find lots to celebrate in North Wales, with the combined Welsh Highland Railway (from Caernarfon) and the Ffestiniog Railway (Porthmadog–Blaenau Ffestiniog) chugging for 65km through the landscape of Eryri NP (Snowdonia). festrail.co.uk

2. Portmeirion

The Italianate-style village of Portmeirion was the vision of the architect Clough Williams-Ellis. It was founded in 1925 as a ‘home for fallen buildings’ and has been a haven for artists ranging from Noel Coward to The Beatles. portmeirion.wales

3. Bodnant Garden

A historic, Grade I-listed horticultural gem in the Conwy Valley, Bodnant was established in 1874 by the industrialist Henry Pochin. Its most famous display is the Laburnum Arch, a cascade of yellow flowers that bloom in late May. nationaltrust.org.uk

4. Beaumaris Castle

Beaumaris Castle was meant to be the final piece in King Edward I’s ‘Ring of Iron’. Its design consists of concentric rings – a moat, outer ward wall and inner wall. It’s essentially a castle within a castle, but it was never finished because Edward’s attention turned to Scotland. cadw.gov.wales

4. Llanfair PG

This tiny town on Anglesey is famous for having the second-longest place name in the world (with 58 characters), though it is often shortened to just Llanfair PG. The village sign at the train station is a popular selfie stop for visitors.

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A wildlife guide to Tasmania https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/tasmania-wildlife-guide/ Mon, 04 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/inspiration/tasmania-wildlife-guide/ Long separated from the mainland, Tasmania harbours a unique blend of wildlife with species you can find nowhere else. Here’s where you can find them…

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If you’re looking for a wildlife adventure, Australia abounds with cute, curious and utterly unique creatures. Tasmania’s varied landscapes are home to some of the most fascinating of them all. With great swathes of wilderness, you can easily get off the beaten track and be alone with nature. Meet some of the island’s show-stealing inhabitants and discover how Audley can help you witness them in their natural habitats.

Wombats

Credit: Shutterstock

Incredibly cute, furry and surprisingly hefty, the wombat is the second largest marsupial in Australia (after the kangaroo). There are three sub-species of the common wombat and Tasmania is home to two: one is found in many of its national parks and the other, known as the Bass Strait Island wombat, now only on Flinders Island. As part of conservation efforts, this slightly smaller subspecies was introduced to Maria Island, which is now home to thousands of them. You’re guaranteed to see these champion diggers on the island sanctuary and may even spot joeys in the pouch. Keep a look out for their distinctive square droppings – they leave little piles of cubic dung (which doesn’t roll away) to mark their territory.

How to see them

Just a 30-minute ferry ride from Triabunna, Maria Island is a veritable zoo of wombats, wallabies, echidnas, Tasmanian devils and endemic birds. Audley’s Wine + the Wild – Maria Island and the Coal Valley tour will reveal its wild side on guided hikes that promise plenty of wombat encounters. A picnic lunch is included, as is a look around Darlington, site of the island’s creepy convict ruins. Stay all day or head back on the ferry to toast your adventures on a private tour of a winery or distillery (whatever tipple most tickles your fancy) in the Coal River Valley.

Tasmanian devils

Credit: Kathryn Leahy

The world’s largest carnivorous marsupial and the island’s most iconic creature, the Tasmanian devil is a shy, nocturnal scavenger. It’s also endangered. These black-and-white creatures were once found on the mainland, but now only inhabit the coastal heathlands and forests of Tasmania, preserved by a lack of predators. Sadly, though a facial tumour disease became rife in the species in the late 1990s, destroying 80% of its population. Conservation projects are the best place to see them, including Maria Island which has a disease-free colony. The sound of their bone-chilling snarls and shrill shrieks and the sight of their frenzied communal feeding is something you won’t easily forget.

How to see them

Admire the bone-crunching Tassie devil up close and learn about its threats from knowledgeable guides on Audley’s Tassie Devils and Tamar Valley tour of Trowunna Wildlife Sanctuary. This privately run 70-acre sanctuary is also home to wombats and forester kangaroos. After watching the devils chow down on their favourite delicacy (be warned they are very noisy eaters) you’ll enjoy some local treats of your own. The tour includes lunch at a winery in the beautiful Relbia wine region and a tasting of Tamar Valley wines.

Marine life

Credit: Shutterstock

From the giant humpback and southern right whales that migrate along the east coast and playful Australian fur seals to the weedy seadragons that hide in its kelp forests and little penguins that burrow on the island’s shores, Tasmania has marine creatures great and small. There are many ways to explore its pristine waters, which are protected by seven marine nature reserves, and witness their myriad wonders. You can paddle out on sea kayak expeditions to navigate its bays and coves or join wilderness cruises to visit rugged little isles like Bruny Island, home to seals, cetaceans and seabirds.

How to see them

An easy day trip from Hobart, Bruny Island has some of the country’s highest sea cliffs, brilliant vantage points for watching migratory whales pass breathtakingly close to the Southern Ocean-pounded headlands. Join a cruise to Bruny Island with Audley to admire its dramatic shoreline from the water and spot the animals that flourish in its wild waves. Seals are a likely sighting, especially around the Friars, as are dolphins, albatross and short-tailed shearwaters. The world’s smallest penguin has a colony along the isthmus known as Bruny Neck.

Wallabies

Credit: Rob Burnett

Part of the macropod family, so named for their big feet, wallabies are one of the most likely wildlife sightings you’ll have in Tasmania. There are two species, the largest of which is the bennetts wallaby, recognisable by its black nose and paws and white stripe on its upper lip. Go to Bruny Island and you’ll see white wallabies, a result of a genetic mutation. The other is the pademelon, a smaller brownish-grey short-tailed species of wallaby that lives a solitary life in the island’s wet sclerophyll and rainforests. Another of its hopping forest-dwellers is the forester kangaroo. Tasmania’s largest marsupial can be found in north-eastern Tasmania and pockets of central Tasmania, as well as Maria Island.

How to see them

Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park in northeast Tasmania, home to rainforests, alpine heaths and glacial lakes, is alive with native creatures: wallabies, kangaroos, wombats, echidnas and iridescent birdlife are all widespread. On Audley’s Active Cradle Mountain walking tour you can opt to follow the Dove Lake Circuit Track or the more challenging trail up to Marion’s Lookout. Whichever you go for you’ll soon be immersed in its untouched landscapes. Keep an eye out for movement in the scrub as you stroll, wallabies are the park’s most commonly encountered species, along with possums.

Platypuses

Credit: Shutterstock

A truly extraordinary creature, the platypus has fur, a rubbery bill, paddle-like tail and webbed feet. It is one of just two monotreme species, a mammal that lays eggs, along with the echidna – the short-beaked Tasmanian echidna also lives on this biodiverse isle. Tasmania is one of the best places in Australia to see these semi-aquatic and elusive nocturnal creatures with healthy populations living in its lakes, rivers and streams. For the best chance of spying them, go at dawn or dusk when platypus return or leave their burrows after a busy night of ducking and diving.

How to see them

Audley’s Canopy Capers evening tour in northeast Tassie, takes you in search of the shy species in a reliable spot in the late afternoon – an expert guide at your side gives you an even better chance of spotting them. A three-course dinner by the campfire in a native forest setting follows. As darkness falls, the forest stirs. You’ll feel the beady eyes of brush-tail and ringtail possums staring down at you from the trees and hear the rustle of wallabies bouncing by as you take a guided nighttime walk.

About the experts

Bursting with unique flora and fauna and among Australia’s best kept secrets, Tasmania’s pristine environments invite adventure. Audley’s Tasmanian specialists can help you plan your wildlife explorations around this wild and wonderful isle. With in-depth expertise and first-hand knowledge of where best to go and when, the team can create tailor made itineraries that connect you to the land and get you up close to its precious creatures.

Start planning your Tasmania adventure

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7 foodie experiences to have in Tasmania https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/tasmania-food-experiences/ Fri, 01 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/inspiration/tasmania-food-experiences/ From fine wine to its home-grown artisanal produce, Tasmania is rightly proud of its food scene. Here’s how you can discover it…

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Calling all gastronomes: discover Tasmania’s underrated culinary scene before word gets out. Incredible foodie experiences pepper the island. Across four distinct seasons, artisan producers and chefs embrace its paddock-to-plate culture and abundant seafood. Share their enthusiasm at lively farmers’ markets interspersed with visits to city distilleries and rural wineries. Bon appétit!

1. Go on a seafood cruise to Bruny Island

Credit: Tourism Tasmania & Ellenor Argyropoulos

Depart Hobart’s Constitution Dock bound for Bruny Island on a seafood cruise. Leave the fishing boats of the harbour behind as you navigate the estuary of the Derwent River and enter the sheltered D’Entrecasteaux Channel. Sea caves, rocky islets and pristine beaches dominate the coastal topography; behind them is a verdant backdrop of pasture land and rainforest. Wildlife’s abundant; during the voyage, look out for seals, dolphins and migratory whales, plus seabirds such as albatrosses, sea eagles, cormorants and gannets. This corner of Tasmania is especially highly regarded for its seafood. Try your hand at fishing as your guide dives for abalone and sea urchin. Catch crayfish to accompany rock lobster, mussels and freshly-shucked oysters for what’s sure to be one of the most memorable meals of your holiday.

2. Wander the artisan markets of Hobart

Credit: Tourism Australia

Weekends are the time to experience Hobart’s artisan markets. On Saturdays, Salamanca Market is a must; 300 stalls extend from the silos to Davey Street. Stay central on Sundays at Bathurst Street’s Farm Gate Market. Find locally-grown flowers, fruit and vegetables alongside a wide range of brunch options. Alternatively, turn a market trip into a fun Friday night out at the Hobart Twilight Market on Brooke Street Pier. It promises a mix of live music, food vans and artisan makers selling their wares, set against a glittering backdrop of city lights. If you fancy getting out of the city, set your sights on Willie Smiths Apple Shed, a half hour drive from downtown. This popular cider maker hosts a great artisan market on Saturday mornings.

3. Tap into its viniculture

Credit: Tourism Australia

The first vines were planted in Tasmania – on Bruny Island – way back in 1788. More than two centuries on, the island’s cool climate and unique terroir combine to make this the ideal spot to grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In addition, some of Australia’s finest sparkling wines are produced here. You won’t need to travel far into the Tasmanian countryside before you spot your first winery. Call in at the cellar doors of its boutique wineries for tastings or boozy lunches. Along the Great Eastern Drive, for instance, the black timber-clad tower and lookout of Devil’s Corner makes it easy to spot. Climb the steps to take in the extraordinary views over the Freycinet Peninsula before leisurely working your way through a tasting flight.

4. Savour the local produce

Credit: Shutterstock

Food is reason enough to cross the Bass Strait. Spaniels sniff out truffles, picking up their seductive scent in the cool earth to supply delicatessens and high-end restaurants. Tasmania’s leatherwood honey is one of the rarest on the planet. Unique to the island and highly prized by connoisseurs, its rounded flavour shouts about the rainforest from which it comes. Tasmania is the only place in Australia that it’s legal to harvest wallaby, though you might not be able to bring yourself to eat it. Instead, opt for locally-caught salmon, shucked oysters or a bowl of Hobart’s favourite seafood chowder. Another must-try is scallop pie (pictured): buttery pastry encases scallops in a creamy curry sauce. Taste one at Jackman and McRoss in Hobart or Bicheno’s Blue Edge Bakery.

5. Hop between Hobart’s whisky distilleries

Credit: Jasper Da Seymour

Hobart boasts a slew of whisky distilleries that welcome visitors. Begin with the acclaimed Sullivan’s Cove distillery, whose talent put Tasmanian whisky on the map. They’ll proudly tell you their award-winning French Oak is the only Australian cask whisky to have won the coveted “World’s Best” prize. Over at Belgrove, nothing is wasted in the quest to make rye whisky. The distillery grows its own rye corn and malts on site. Used cooking oil fuels the handmade still and spent mash feeds the farm’s sheep. Meanwhile, female-owned Killara is a boutique distillery run by a second-generation distiller who knows a thing or two about single malts. Finally, learn about the art and science of whisky-making with LARK, which offers distillery tours and tastings at Pontville, in Hobart’s northern suburbs.

6. Embark on a cheese crawl

Credit: Tourism Tasmania & Rob Burnett

Tasmania’s temperate climate, fertile soil and lush pastures make this the ideal destination if you love cheese. Tour an assortment of farms, dairies and specialist stores as you embark on a cheese crawl. A stone’s throw from Hobart, salivate over the innovative cheddars from Wicked Cheese and the nutty flavour of Coal River Farm’s creamy, ashed brie. Further south at Birchs Bay, book a Tasting Teaser at Grandvewe where you can sample their delicious range of sheep’s milk cheeses, such as The Drunken Admiral and Sapphire Blue. They partner with Hartshorn Distillery which uses their leftover sheep whey to make spirits. Alternatively, hop on a ferry to reach Bruny Island Cheese Company, award-winning traditional cheesemakers; the key to their success is using milk from their own herd of rare-breed cows.

7. Take on a tasting trail

Credit: Tourism Australia

Foodies keen to tour the north west of the island will be excited to learn about Tasting Trail Tasmania. A plethora of independent and often ground-breaking businesses have signed up to the scheme. They represent confectioners and cheesemongers, brewers and bakers, coffee roasters and cider producers, oyster fishermen and olive growers – in fact, pretty much every aspect of culinary provision is involved. Tasting Trail’s handy online tool centres on an interactive map which you can use to help plan a self-drive itinerary or identify a suitable guided tour. Check listings to see if your visit coincides with a Trail Graze event, when in addition to the producers and growers that usually participate, you’ll also be able to join in with workshops and tastings.

About the experts

Audley’s attention to detail helps ensure that you don’t miss a thing when planning your foodie trip to Tasmania. Our team carefully cultivates relationships with local growers, makers and producers to bring a wealth of knowledge and expertise to the table. This enables us to offer tailor-made itineraries and tours that help you get right to the heart of Tasmania’s food scene. Book with Audley for an unforgettable culinary adventure on this fascinating and fertile island.

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Exhilarating mountains to climb in Saudi https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/exhilarating-mountains-to-climb-in-saudi/ Thu, 23 Nov 2023 17:02:39 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=66958 Spellbinding vistas, ancient history, diverse wildlife, and even a touch of mystery – scale the story-rich heights of Saudi’s most awe-inspiring mountains for all this and more.

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Spellbinding vistas, ancient history, diverse wildlife, and even a touch of mystery – scale the story-rich heights of Saudi’s most awe-inspiring mountains for all this and more.

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NATURE & OUTDOORS

Exhilarating mountains to climb in Saudi

Spellbinding vistas, ancient history, diverse wildlife, and even a touch of mystery – scale the story-rich heights of Saudi’s most awe-inspiring mountains for all this and more.

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As Saudi continues to open up to the world, avid hikers and trekkers (along with more novice walkers, sunset seekers and nature enthusiasts) are beginning to explore the Kingdom’s enchanting heights.

Saudi’s peaks are home not only to rugged (and sometimes surprising) natural beauty and panoramic views, but also millennia of history and deep religious significance. Whether you’re seeking out spiritual connection, geological marvels, or simply a sense of pure adventure, the mountains of Saudi are calling. Don your walking boots and embark on a journey of discovery, one mountain at a time.

1

Jabal Soudah

There may be some debate as to whether Jabal Soudah still holds the title of Saudi’s highest peak – new measurements means another of the country’s majestic mountains, Jabal Ferwa, is also in the running – but this much is certain: Jabal Soudah offers bucket list-level hiking. Rising around 3,000m above the Kingdom in the southwestern Asir region, on sunny days the summit offers panoramic views as far as the Red Sea, but half the joy is in the journey itself (although the cable car direct to the peak is also a popular choice). Thanks to its height and topography, trekking Jabal Soudah (whose name translates to ‘Black Mountain’) is a journey through a number of different worlds. The familiar desert landscape, dotted with cacti, gives way as you climb to a lush, semi-tropical terrain reminiscent of the jungle that is even home to troops of baboons.

If time allows, linger in the surrounding Asir National Park to spot over 300 species of birds. A luxury mountain tourism destination, Soudah Peaks, was recently announced and will include much of Soudah mountain and Rijal Almaa. Soudah Park is currently closed as building works take place for the resort, along with the cable car that used to run from it. However, some hiking will be possible but not from the well-known Soudah park area. Al Sahab Park, which lies south of Soudah, is another place with the most widescreen views where visitors can experience the joys of the Abha mountains.

2

Jabal Al Lawz

Cloaked in mystery – and even a little controversy – Jabal Al Lawz towers 2,580 metres above sea level, not far from the Jordanian border in Saudi’s northwest. Some believe that this somewhat mystical mountain, whose name means “Mount of Almonds”, is the real Mount Sinai referred to in the Bible. Though this claim has been disputed, many visitors nonetheless flock here in winter hoping for a glimpse of snow, while others make the journey to take in the remarkable pre-Islamic petroglyphs and inscriptions that punctuate the valleys. It’s worth bearing in mind that the very summit of Jabal Al Lawz is not open to hikers, and that trekking here is best done with the assistance (and next-level knowledge) of a guide. Jabal Lawz is now the home to NEOM’s Trojena and will eventually become a state-of-the-art, ultra-luxury tourist destination.

3

Jabal Dakka, Taif

As you approach Jabal Dakka, nestled among the breathtaking landscape of Ash Shafa in the southwestern Taif province, take a deep breath. That’s the smell of a verdant juniper forest, whose aromatic fragrance joins with a consistent gentle mountain breeze to make Dakka among Saudi’s most beloved nature spots. During the early months of the year you are also likely to see wild lavender flowering in the area. Set amid the Hijaz mountains, Dakka stands at 2,050 metres tall but is, despite its imposing height, one of the Kingdom’s more ‘user-friendly’ mountains. Marked trails and well-maintained roads lead right up to the highest point, while plentiful picnic spots and a number of nearby restaurants and hotels, such as Beit Al Ward Resort, make Jabal Dakka a favourite for families and those less experienced in trekking. Visitors are asked not to feed the local baboons.

4

Jabal Al Samra, Hail

It’s well known that Saudi hospitality is in a league of its own, but did you know the country’s mountains have played their own part in this all-important tradition? Atop Jabal Al Samra is an intriguing circular structure dating back to the sixth century AD, where chieftain and poet Hatim al-Tai – famed for his unparalleled generosity – would light fires to guide travellers traversing the harsh desert landscape. Once you’ve explored Hatim al-Tai’s “stove”, as it is known, enjoy vistas over the city of Hail from the summit before strolling around the lake at Jabal Al Samra park, set on the mountain’s lower slopes. Looking for an extra dose of history? Don’t leave town without checking out the spectacular 17th-century A’arif Fort, just a short drive from Al Samra.

5

Jabal Al Majaz, Asir

Experienced mountain hikers looking for their next adventure should look no further than Jabal al Majaz. Towering at a height of 2,902 metres, this is the fifth highest peak in the Kingdom. Amidst the rugged scenery of the Sarawat mountain range, Jabal al Majaz offers views of the Asir region and to the border with Yemen, as well as a distinct sense of “getting away from it all” – there’s truly nowhere better to reflect on the striking beauty, and sheer scale, of the Saudi landscape. While you’re in the area, be sure to take a peek at the red-orange stone dwellings at the nearby Al-Jahamah Historical Village.

6

Mount Uhud, Madinah

Beyond its striking fire-red, black and green rock faces and mesmerising views over Madinah, Mount Uhud is significant for its key role in Islamic history. The mountain was the site of the Battle of Uhud, which saw the prophet Muhammad and the small Muslim community of Madinah clash with forces from Mecca. Unlike Jabal al Nour in Mecca – where the prophet Muhammad is said to have received his first revelation of the Quran – Mount Uhud is open to Muslims and non-Muslims alike. Though Mount Ubud stands at 1,077 metres tall, marked trails make walking the history-rich peak accessible for even novice hikers, while more challenging spots will entice rock climbers to show off their skills – all the while taking in the atmosphere of faith and resilience that permeate the atmosphere here.

7

Al Qarah, Al Ahsa

Known to locals as the ‘Mountain of Whistling Wind’, this stunning natural formation offers spellbinding views of the valley below; its real treasures, though, lie beneath the surface. The Al-Ahsa oasis, within which it is located, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2018. The relatively low peak (around 75 metres above street level) is at once an impressive vantage point and a relatively easy climb for walkers of all abilities, many of whom are drawn by the mountain’s intricate network of canyons and caves – around 1.5 kilometres of cave passage in total. There is evidence of ancient settlements dating as far back as 5,000 BC, while the two standout caves – Al Nashab Cave, famed for its constant temperature no matter the season, and Judas Cave, believed to be the site of biblical figure Judas’s death – speak to the area’s geological and spiritual significance. Keen birdwatchers visiting during migration season should keep watch for bulbuls, nightingales, bee-eaters and Eurasian hoopoes, while history buffs may want to delve into the ancient history of the area at the nearby Land of Civilizations museum.

Practical Information

Visas

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It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

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With plenty of direct flight links from the UK to Saudi, it’s really easy to get to the country. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

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To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. For more information on what to wear when in Saudi, see our full guide here. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

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You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September. For our full When to go guide for Saudi Arabia, click here.

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

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Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What’s the currency of Saudi?

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The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

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We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

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Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.

Want to see more of Saudi?

We’ve given you a taster of what Saudi is really like, now it’s time for you discover the country in greater detail and plan your own Arabian adventure there…

The post Exhilarating mountains to climb in Saudi appeared first on Wanderlust.

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Best places to shop for arts and crafts in Saudi https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/best-places-to-shop-for-arts-and-crafts-in-saudi/ Thu, 23 Nov 2023 12:46:55 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=67599 Discover ancient crafts and traditions that have shaped the lives of Saudi people, and how you can take a piece of their culture back home.

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Discover ancient crafts and traditions that have shaped the lives of Saudi people, and how you can take a piece of their culture back home.

View the story

CULTURE & HERITAGE

Best places to shop for arts and crafts in Saudi

Discover ancient crafts and traditions that have shaped the lives of Saudi people, and how you can take a piece of their culture back home.

Scroll down to read

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Arts and crafts in Saudi is a tale as old as time, grown from ancient cultures and practical needs. Today it’s a melting pot of useful and decorative items, that today proudly illustrate Saudi life as it is, and was.

To find the most authentic handicrafts, why not join local specialists and designers at some of the popular markets or souqs across the country? We’ve rounded up some of the best places to find souvenirs and hand-crafted bargains. Whether you are looking for striking Bedouin-inspired jewellery, a traditional Abaya, or some famous local honey Saudi markets can deliver. Find where the locals shop and gather together, soak up the atmosphere, sample some Arabic sweet treats or coffee, and enjoy a traditional shopping experience. This is time spent away from the western shopping malls, its grassroots Saudi shopping, among the people that represent inspiring cultural traditions that they are ready to share.  And while alcohol is illegal throughout the country, that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of spiced, aromatic and sweet non-alcoholic drinks to be enjoyed, many crafted from the fresh produce found in Saudi itself. Here are the seven best drinks to sample during a trip to Saudi…  

1

Taiba Market, Riyadh

If you’re looking for an alternative to the mega malls in the Saudi capital Riyadh, then Taiba market is well worth a visit. Nicknamed the ‘ladies souq’ by locals, it’s the ideal place to shop for intricate jewellery, make-up including henna, and traditional abayas in all kinds of designs and colours. Be prepared to haggle for handcrafted necklaces featuring beading, geometric shapes, and Bedouin-inspired designs.

You may find affordable toys and souvenirs for children, perfumes and spices, and some sweet treats to enjoy back at your hotel. The vast corridors of shops sit in and around traditional Arab architecture, and offer international as well as local brands, with a good choice of authentic Saudi goods. Taiba Market caters for all shopping needs. Located in the King Fahd District and close to numerous hotels, this market is in an ideal location for a pitstop during your trip to the Saudi capital.

2

Souq al Bawadi, Jeddah

A long-time destination for pilgrims and now more widely visited by non-religious tourists, Jeddah is a popular place for those who love to shop in traditional Arab markets. Among the home supplies and family-orientated stores, you will find sellers with displays of handcrafted items and jewellery. Engraved woodcarvings are often bought as gifts for pilgrims, while the jewellery is a mix of gold and silver beadwork and pendants. Like many souqs, you’ll find a good choice of stockists of Arab clothing, including thobes. These kaftan-style robes are worn over clothing by men and women, and range from classic and plain to more embellished striking designs.

To shop for these beautiful souvenirs in comfort visits are best taken between October and April, when the weather will be cooler but in truth, with it being a modern, indoor market, it can be visited at any time of year. When you have wandered among the stalls and shops, why not soak up the atmosphere in the characterful old town?  For traditional arts and crafts then head to the old town of Al Balad where there are a growing number of artisans opening workshops and selling their art.

3

Al-Balad Market, Taif

A favourite summer destination for Saudis and tourists alike thanks to its milder climate, Taif is known as the ‘City of Roses’. If you can tear yourself away from the beautiful views, for an authentic shopping experience then Al-Balad Market could be your first port of call. Traditional Arabian architecture across many winding streets hints at the cultural heritage within the region, and the traders add to the authentic atmosphere. Open across the week, you’ll have plenty of time to hunt out some local souvenirs and handcrafted goods. You’ll find sections dedicated to pottery, woven baskets, traditional clothing, and sparkling gold and silver jewellery.

During rose season don’t miss the chance to take home the scent of Taif roses, preserved in perfumes and rose oils. Rose products are available in numerous shops all year round. There is even a whole area dedicated to honey as some of the best in the kingdom is produced in the area. When you’re ready for refreshments stop off at a café for dates and Saudi coffee or buy a sweet treat such as kunafa or basbousa. 

4

Souq Al Thulatha, Asir

Take a trip to the Asiri capital Abha for a cultural shopping experience at the city’s ‘Tuesday Market’ (although its name is a bit of a misnomer, as the market is actually open every day) Named after the day when it first started years ago, this is an ideal spot to pick up an Al-Qatt Al-Asiri painting, or perhaps have a souvenir engraved with this historic art form. Recognised by UNESCO for its cultural significance, this ancient art form has provided geometric colour to many a home, and could now decorate yours. This market is also where you’ll find a variety of herbs and spices, along with jewellery, local clothing, woven straw baskets and bags, and famous Asir honey. Originally used for its medicinal properties, this sweet treat is said to be in demand throughout the region.

It may take a while to wander through the ‘western’ style vendors in search of authentic souvenirs, Arab clothing, or beaded and pendant-style jewellery, but the rewards will be well worth the time. The market is in the shape of an oval and is easy to get around.

5

Love Market, Dammam

Founded in the 1940s, the ‘Love Market’ is an established favourite with locals and visitors alike. It’s expanded over the years from a local merchant trading ground to a vast array of shops and sellers, including a dedicated women’s market area. Open daily from 9am to 11pm, you’ll find many displays of gold jewellery, Arab clothing, and handmade souvenirs. Pick up some locally painted artwork or ceramics, and look out for regional patterns and paintings. 

The holy month of Ramadan is an extra special time to visit. The streets come alive with music as communities gather to sell their wares, sample local food and be together to celebrate their culture. Whenever you visit there are plenty of shops to browse, bargains to secure, and local delicacies to try. We hear luqaimat (Arabic sweet dumplings) are great washed down with Karak Chai tea. 

6

Wednesday Market, Al Ahsa

Established in 1900 in the city of Mubarraz, this one-day-a-week ancient market is a hive of activity with sellers offering crafts and textiles for sale. As a palm oasis and UNESCO creative city, you can expect stalls full of palm weaving, woodwork, and pottery, so look out for traditional pots and vases, baskets, and home décor items in the newly renovated market. If you’re building up an appetite along with your steps wandering this market, there are food trucks, fresh fruit and vegetable stalls, and other food stalls to fulfil your needs. Saudi coffee served with dates is a popular option, with the regional Khalasah date variety a favourite among locals. The market is also the site of many events and seasonal festivals throughout the year. This is a market that brings the community and visitors together, through its authentic market stalls, food and drink options, and thanks to its lush and fertile location, green spaces to rest and play. 

Practical Information

Visas

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It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

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With plenty of direct flight links from the UK to Saudi, it’s really easy to get to the country. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

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To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. For more information on what to wear when in Saudi, see our full guide here. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

+
You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September. For our full When to go guide for Saudi Arabia, click here.

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

+
Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What’s the currency of Saudi?

+
The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

+
We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

+
Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.

Want to see more of Saudi?

We’ve given you a taster of what Saudi is really like, now it’s time for you discover the country in greater detail and plan your own Arabian adventure there…

The post Best places to shop for arts and crafts in Saudi appeared first on Wanderlust.

]]>
Discover the highlights of Tabuk https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/highlights-of-tabuk/ Thu, 16 Nov 2023 10:22:02 +0000 https://wanderlusttstg.wpengine.com/?post_type=shorthand_story&p=66953 The futuristic city of NEOM might be grabbing the headlines, but it's nearby Tabuk that’s winning hearts as a place to experience authentic Arabian culture...

The post Discover the highlights of Tabuk appeared first on Wanderlust.

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The futuristic city of NEOM might be grabbing the headlines, but it’s nearby Tabuk that’s winning hearts as a place to experience authentic Arabian culture…

View the story

NATURE & OUTDOORS

Discover the highlights of Tabuk

The futuristic city of NEOM might be grabbing the headlines, but it’s nearby Tabuk that’s winning hearts as a place to experience authentic Arabian culture…

Scroll down to read

Promotional Content

Long ignored when compared to bigger Saudi metropolises such as Riyadh and Jeddah, Tabuk is now rapidly gaining popularity among visitors seeking its fascinating history and vibrant culture.

Its welcoming people, local culinary delicacies, and interesting traditional buildings and sites make it a memorable place to explore. When visiting Tabuk and embarking on day trips nearby, these are the top 10 unmissable highlights…

1

Explore Ottoman history at Tabuk Fortress

The main attraction in the city is Tabuk Fortress. Although thought to have originally been built as a basic structure as early as 3,500 BC, its verifiable origins as a fortress date back to 1559, when the Ottoman Caliph supported the building of forts along Hajj routes. It has recently been renovated into an informative museum, with the ground floor housing an open courtyard, a mosque and a well. The second floor comprises of rooms containing interesting artefacts from the Ottoman period, as well as stairs and towers that were used for security. The royal pools are behind the castle, as well as the cisterns that once captured water from an ancient spring.

2

Spy the Catalina Seaplane Wreckage

Why is an abandoned American WWII aircraft lying on a remote Saudi beach? The Catalina seaplane wreckage lies marooned near the sandy cape of Ras Al-Sheikh Hameed, just over a two-hour drive west from the city of Tabuk. The military plane (a PBY-5A Catalina) makes for memorable viewing, with an equally interesting history. In the 1950’s an American bought three of the amphibious planes, converting them into luxurious suites with the aim of flying his friends and family around the world. On the flight from Egypt to Iraq they noticed the beautiful coastline below them, deciding on the spur of the moment (and with no visas) to land for the night. The next day the Saudi coastguard, on high alert due to tensions in the area at that time, opened fire on the unidentified plane. Everyone on board returned safely to America, but the plane was damaged beyond repair – remaining there to this day.

3

Discover the ancient roots of Tayma

The province of Tabuk contains plenty of history, none older than the ancient town of Tayma. Believed to have been inhabited all the way back in the Bronze Age, the first written record comes in the form of cuneiform text from 8BC, when a caravan of traders from Tayma and Saba was captured by an Assyrian governor in what is modern-day Iraq. The town also boasts an Egyptian cartouche of Ramses III (dating back almost 3,000 years). Due to its oasis, the town was an important stop on many trading routes, and was also well known for producing dates and rock salt. While the Tayma Museum is well worth a visit, the town itself is an open-air exhibition. The ruins of the 15km city wall in the north of the town are part of one of the biggest ancient walls in the whole Arabian Peninsula, while the ruins of the Ancient Temple of Salm (once called the Red Palace, after the colour of the rock) are believed to be from the time of the last king of Babylon (King Nabonidus), who lived in Tayma for 10 years back in the 6BC.

4

See the Saudi Titanic

Nicknamed the Saudi Titanic, Georgios G was a British-made cargo ship which ran aground against the treacherous coral reefs lying along the top edge of the Gulf of Aqaba near the border with Jordan. The vessel was sailing from Greece to the port of Aqaba in Jordan, carrying mainly flour as well as other foodstuffs. Technicians came aboard to try and rescue the ship, but their efforts to restart the engine led to an ignition spark setting the whole vessel on fire, with everything except the iron parts being destroyed. The front third of the 71m ship still lies above water and can be clearly seen from the shore.

5

Go on a hike through Wadi Al Disah

Wadi Al Disah translates as ‘valley of the palm trees’, and this beautiful mountainous area contains unforgettable scenery and vistas. The valley floor is dotted with innumerable palm trees, while the surrounding sandstone cliffs and pillars are so otherworldly they simply must be explored. Located a mere two-hour drive south of the town of Tabuk, the area is perfect for hiking, picnics, rock climbing, camping and stargazing. Thankfully, Wadi Al Disah isn’t well known and therefore more peaceful and uncrowded. Streams trickle throughout the canyon, as tall reeds sway gently in the breeze and the light dances on the sandstone cliffs at sunset. Some of the pools the streams feed into can get very deep, especially in winter, so travelling in a 4×4 with an experienced guide is recommended.

6

Visit Hisma Desert

Another spectacular location to experience the great outdoors is the Hisma Desert, roughly an hour west of Tabuk. Over time the sand mountains have eroded into beautiful arches and shapes – and with a lot of the rocks also containing ancient Arabic inscriptions, providing researchers with interesting insights into the development of the language. A 4X4 is needed to properly explore the area, with highlights including camping and rally driving through the sand. One real highlight is walking through a massive tunnel with towering rocks on either side, which opened into a beautiful green space locally referred to as ‘the garden of Eden’.

7

Try Tabuk’s tasty local cuisine

Many of the restaurants in Tabuk serve local dishes, due to fewer tourists in the city as well as historically strong trading relationships with neighbours such as Egypt and Jordan. The best restaurant in the area is widely acknowledged to be Al-Qaryah Al Turathia, with traditional dining booths set up on the floor and the walls adorned with pictures of past kings. The menu reflects the culture, offering dishes such as chicken mandi (cooked with rice and spices) and kabsa (lamb or chicken with mixed rice on a communal platter). Tabuk’s location close to the Red Sea has resulted in the city also boasting amazing seafood restaurants, none better than Jandofly. On offer is an extensive list of seafood grills, fish, shrimp and lobster, as well as local dishes such as siyadiah (seasoned seafood). For those looking for something lighter, Don café has an enticing range of desserts and coffees, along with a trendy atmosphere.

8

Explore the tombs of Maghaer Shuaib

The tombs of Maghaer Shuaib are striking both for their historical significance as well as their artistically intricate designs. Dating back to the Nabataean civilization from the fourth century BC, these ancient inhabitants were skilled artisans. Similar to Hegra in AlUla and Petra in Jordan, burial chambers were elaborately carved into sandstone cliffs, featuring decorative images and structurally complex columns. Scholars of Abrahamic religions have learned this is where Moses lived for ten years after fleeing from Egypt and the tombs are currently closed while the NEOM initiative undertake archaeological investigations.

9

See history at the Hejaz Railway Station

Back in Tabuk, the Hejaz Railway Station is a UNESCO World Heritage site which provides a fascinating viewpoint of a difficult time in world history. Originally intended to connect Istanbul in Turkey to the Islamic Holy City of Mecca, progress on the railway line was thwarted by the outbreak of WWI, with the railway line only reaching Madinah (250 miles short of its destination). Wartime attacks on the line left it in ruins less than 20 years since building had begun, and today the station is a museum filled with photographs, manuscripts and even a model locomotive and freight car.

10

Take a day trip to Duba

The small coastal town of Duba punches well above its weight, offering stunning beaches and a modern corniche that offers fine views of turquoise-tinted coastline. Often used as a pitstop for those travelling by car as well as ships sailing past, the town has a lively atmosphere and a broad selection of hotels and restaurants. A 2.5-hour drive from Tabuk, day visitors can explore the historical mud-brick King Abdulaziz Fort, as well as enjoy deliciously fresh seafood meals from the nearby fish market or restaurants. After all, sitting on the beach enjoying a sunset and a hearty picnic provides an unforgettable finish to any trip.

11

Visit Jabal Al Lawz in the winter

Roughly a 2.5-hour drive from Tabuk lies Jabal Al Lawz, a picturesque mountain that receives snowfall almost every year. Visit during the winter months and you’ll be treated to the beautiful sight of a snow-dusted Saudi mountain; not something that every traveller will have the privilege of seeing.