Alternative places to celebrate carnival in Brazil
Words Jessica Reid
The party doesn’t stop in Rio. Across Brazil, plenty of other cities and states also host their own carnival celebrations, traditionally held in the weeks leading up to Lent. Some are well-known, while others fly under the radar. All bring a completely unique take to carnival.
Whether you want to witness a traditional samba competition, feel the rhythm of Afro-Brazilian blocos (street parties), dance the night away at an LGBTQ+ beach party... or cover yourself head-to-toe in mud, these are some of Brazil's top alternative destinations to celebrate carnival...
1. Florianópolis
Best for: LGBTQ+ travellers
Located in the south of Brazil in the region of Santa Catarina, Florianópolis promises the second-best LGBTQ+ celebration after Rio. Its best known for its sandy beaches that host an array of parties during carnival season, especially surrounding the popular gay bar of Bar do Deca. Florianópolis' main event takes place at the Sambadrome, where performing Samba schools are the highlight of the evening entertainment, alongside dazzling firework displays. But most revellers come to the city for the Pop Gay party, a popular beauty contest for drag queens and transgender people.
2. Paraty
Best for: Getting stuck in the mud
Don’t expect colourful costumes of feathers and sequins in Paraty, a beautiful colonial town set along the Costa Verde, 250km away from Rio. In fact, you can expect quite the opposite. Paraty’s Bloco da lama sees local and visiting partygoers head down to a muddy lagoon to soak themselves from head to toe in layers of mud, emerging out of the bog looking like an army of swamp monsters. People then take to the streets and parade around in their muddy attire. The city is also well known for its cachaça drink, so why not enjoy a light tipple and then get stuck in with this bizarre yet brilliant alternative carnival celebration?
3. São Paulo
Best for: A better value Rio
What was once a small celebration in the 1950s is now the number one alternative to Rio Carnival. Attracting millions of visitors every year, you can expect the same vibrant atmosphere, Samba parades and music as you would at the ‘Biggest Party on Earth’, and at a much more affordable cost. Samba bands are a major highlight, with their heavy percussion beats known as ‘samba do trabalho’. Much like Rio, a competition between multiple samba schools takes place at the Anhembi Sambadrome, all hoping to be the carnival champions. If you can’t get your hands on tickets or prefer a more intimate celebration, the city's smaller surrounding towns such as Sao Luis do Paraitinga, Salto, and Sorocaba host their own street parties during carnival.
4. Olinda and Recife
Best for: Getting back to tradition
Recife and Olinda are two colonial towns in Pernambuco, northeastern Brazil. Due to their close proximity, they’re often bound together as one brilliant – and completely free – carnival destination. With a strong Afro-Brazilian influence, expect displays that demonstrate the area’s local traditions, such as the artistic performance of frevo – a frenetic and vigorous music that originates from Recife Carnival (and listed by UNESCO for its Intangible Cultural Heritage). You’ll also get to see ceremonies such as Maracatu Naçao and parades of bonecos (giant puppets). But perhaps the carnival's most important event is its Noite dos Tambores Silenciosos (Night of Silent Drums), a midnight parade commemorating victims of the slave trade.
5. Manaus
Best for: An Indigenous twist
Located on the shores of the Rio Negro, Manaus is often used by travellers as the gateway to the Amazon. It’s location has created a unique celebration called ‘Carnaboi’, blending classic carnival celebrations with the traditions of the Amazon’s Indigenous people, particularly pulling influence from the costume, music and dance of the popular Boi-Bumbá Festival.
6. Ouro Preto
Best for: Young and fun
Hidden within the Brazilian mountains of Minas Gerais, the UNESCO-listed town of Ouro Preto feels like an unlikely candidate for hosting the ‘best student carnival in Brazil’, yet, here it is. The whole event is organised by students, who host blocos with live performances and themed parties at their seperate republicas (student accomodation). You’ll likely need to book a package with one of the republicas before you go, just be prepared for the wildest carnival you’ve ever experienced.
7. Salvador
Best for: Afro-Brazilian heritage
Salvador is the capital of the musically rich state of Bahia, so it’s no surprise that its carnival celebrations are renowned for their rhythm. This shouldn’t be mistaken for a destination with nightclubs and bars though – Salvador takes its party atmosphere to the streets, with blocos being the highlight of its carnival (rather than samba competitions like in Rio and Sao Paulo). The majority of Salvador’s population have African heritage, with their cultural influence – such as Axe music – infused within the carnival parades and performances. A highlight is Ilê Aiyê, a bloco which sees hundreds of Afro drummers take to the streets of Curuzu outside the city centre.
8. Diamantina
Best for: Embracing Brazil’s culture and history
Diamantina maybe a small colonial town, but it celebrates carnival in a big way. Located in the state of Minas Gerais, the former diamond-mining hub (hence the name Diamantina) hosts a five-day carnival every year, famous for its 24-hour blocos. Despite its up-all-night party reputation, Diamantina has now refocused its carnival events to celebrate the culture and heritage of the city, ensuring visitors respect the local community and landmarks while they parade around its narrow, historic streets.
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